Modified suspension, coilovers or lowered the Evora?

[roadstar]

Originally Posted by trentor

I'd be curious how these differed from the Evora ride quality as well, but they're shocks/struts. They will not affect ride height at all, which is what the OP wants. However I guess it's possible they are shorter than OEM overall, but that's not mentioned.

I've done exactly what you describe to my G35. It now looks better and the lower stance actually improved high speed stability, without reducing ride quality at all.

I'm very interested, so please keep us posted on what you find out. I've also thought the Evora would look perfect if it was only about an inch lower.

thank you donour for understanding and answering my question exactly. i know that there are many ways to modify the suspension and just like you mentioned i have plans to look into what options exist, shorter springs while maintaining the same rates to hopefully keep the ride quality the same. i would love to see cheaper coilover options like those that exist for the elise and exige. i can only imagine in time they will start to show up. the GTN set 2 ways and the nitron 3 ways are beautiful but i can only imagine those may not hold up well on daily street driving?. if anyone has experience with these please share

[donour]

Originally Posted by trentor

I'd be curious how these differed from the Evora ride quality as well, but they're shocks/struts. They will not affect ride height at all, which is what the OP wants. However I guess it's possible they are shorter than OEM overall, but that's not mentioned.

Sorry to nitpick, but technically the evora doesn't have struts. The dampers only control motion and aren't a locating device. In other words, moving the pickup points won't change the geometry statically or dynamically.

The PSi/Ohlins setup has adjustable spring perches which can raise/lower the car. More importantly (in my opinion) they allow for precise corner balancing -- clearly geared for track use.

Just eyeballing the numbers, you should be able to go up in springrate a fair amount (10-20 %) without producing a punishing or harsh ride. The key is getting a shock that's sufficiently digressive to not be harsh. Isn't the 'S' 10% stiffer all around with a larger rear bar?

donour

[trentor]

Originally Posted by donour

Sorry to nitpick, but technically the evora doesn't have struts. The dampers only control motion and aren't a locating device. In other words, moving the pickup points won't change the geometry statically or dynamically.

The PSi/Ohlins setup has adjustable spring perches which can raise/lower the car. More importantly (in my opinion) they allow for precise corner balancing -- clearly geared for track use.

Just eyeballing the numbers, you should be able to go up in springrate a fair amount (10-20 %) without producing a punishing or harsh ride. The key is getting a shock that's sufficiently digressive to not be harsh. Isn't the 'S' 10% stiffer all around with a larger rear bar?

donour

Thanks for the clarification. Great info to know.

[6i9]

You can set your rebound/damping on coilovers to be very compliant on the street, especially if you choose a mild spring rate. Coilovers are the best option to give you the best of both worlds really.

[roadstar]

Originally Posted by 6i9

You can set your rebound/damping on coilovers to be very compliant on the street, especially if you choose a mild spring rate. Coilovers are the best option to give you the best of both worlds really.

yep i agree, i've only used coilovers in every car i've owned. i guess we just have to wait to see what other coilover options will come out for the evora.

[yahooooo]

any update ? thanks

[yahooooo]

i also found this...

Fahrwerk - KOMO-TEC Online

i agree, evora should be 1 inch lower

[donour]

Originally Posted by yahooooo

i also found this...

Fahrwerk - KOMO-TEC Online

i agree, evora should be 1 inch lower

That looks like a pretty reasonable option. JRZ parts are pretty well known among shock engineers. $3000 USD isn't bad either.

I wonder what the springrates are...

I still contend that the stock setup has almost everything you want. Somebody could just make new mounting brackets to add ride height adjustment (EDIT: and keep full travel).


donour

[Sven76]

MotoConcept has a Wilbers in its shop...

[Julian73]

Originally Posted by roadstar

.... Another option I see possibly changing the springs from eibach stock setup with a shorter spring with similar rate setup. In my past cars suspension set ups I know there were options to choose shorter springs which still held the same spring rate. I found the ride to still be similar and comfortable but the car had a lower stance. I will see if this is possible with eibach.

Unfortunately lowering the car WILL require higher spring rates to stop bottoming out the suspension and its resultant instantaneous oversteer or understeer depending which end bottoms.

[Lotustwn]

Lowering it an inch would make it almost impossible to deal with driveways and slanted surfaces... Kinda like driving a Koenigsegg CCR around the city and parking lots / driveways /etc--I can tell you from experience that it ain't fun, lol!

[fasttoys]

Originally Posted by Lotustwn

Lowering it an inch would make it almost impossible to deal with driveways and slanted surfaces... Kinda like driving a Koenigsegg CCR around the city and parking lots / driveways /etc--I can tell you from experience that it ain't fun, lol!

I would take a 1/2 inch front and back all day long but I drive mine on the weekends most of the time its sits during the week...

[Plackslayer]

I can't see lowering mine at all - I love how it rides and takes corners and tracks. I just don't want that to change

[VSAMotorsports]

Originally Posted by jah29

Buy these and then please post a review for us all

PSi 'Raceline' Lotus Evora suspension system (3-way) [psi.EvoraTTX3.01] - $5,995.00 : Koni, Ohlins, Moton, Penske, Hypercoils, Your Racing Shocks Shop!

We are a direct dealer for PSI. We had the first set of TTX ohlins for an Evora made for us by PSI about a year and a half ago. This was before the GTN kit was available. Slight differences in spring rate and valving but both shocks are very similar. We have set up 3 track only Evoras with these shocks and the results are pretty amazing. We also have a street version with less aggressive spring rates and valving available.

If you are looking for a more cost effective option, the factory dampers are ride height adjustable via the upper spring perch. There are 3 machined grooves with a circlip that supports the perch. I believe you can get -5mm if memory serves. Toe and camber adjustments are recommended when changing ride height.

[donour]

Originally Posted by VSAMotorsports

If you are looking for a more cost effective option, the factory dampers are ride height adjustable via the upper spring perch. There are 3 machined grooves with a circlip that supports the perch. I believe you can get -5mm if memory serves. Toe and camber adjustments are recommended when changing ride height.

Cool! I haven't gotten under there and looked yet. Does anybody know if this is documented in the factory service manual? I didn't see anything in the front suspension section.

offtopic: The rules for Stock in SCCA Solo get a a little messy with adjustments like this. Some cars (c5 vette come to mind) allow small ride height changes and it is completely within the rules because GM endorses it. On the other hand, the 996 GT3 has a camber settings that are not legal because porsche lists them as "off-road only". 0.2" is better than nothing. :-p

donour

[Plackslayer]

Originally Posted by VSAMotorsports

We are a direct dealer for PSI. We had the first set of TTX ohlins for an Evora made for us by PSI about a year and a half ago. This was before the GTN kit was available. Slight differences in spring rate and valving but both shocks are very similar. We have set up 3 track only Evoras with these shocks and the results are pretty amazing. We also have a street version with less aggressive spring rates and valving available.

If you are looking for a more cost effective option, the factory dampers are ride height adjustable via the upper spring perch. There are 3 machined grooves with a circlip that supports the perch. I believe you can get -5mm if memory serves. Toe and camber adjustments are recommended when changing ride height.

with a lowered 5mm on each end - what would you have to do tow/camber wise to correct?

[donour]

Originally Posted by Plackslayer

with a lowered 5mm on each end - what would you have to do tow/camber wise to correct?

Um. Set it.

Generally speaking, camber and toe change dynamically as the wheel moves away from static ride height -- either in extension or compression. If you lower the car, each wheel moves in the compression direction. In our case, camber will be a little higher and the rear will toe in slightly.

The factory adjustment bolts should be _plenty_ to get back to factory alignment settings with a small ride height change. If you want some exotic alignment values, then you might need some exotic hardware. You almost certainly don't.

cheers!

donour

EDIT: As a rule when designing racing suspensions, you are very careful when controlling dynamic camber. You want very little change around static ride height and you want the value at full compression to be close to the roll angle of the car. That way the tire experiences a pretty constant angle with the ground. Most cars suck as this (I'm looking at you rally cars). I actually bought an Evora because the designers thought about this when building the car.

[Plackslayer]

Originally Posted by donour

Um. Set it.

Generally speaking, camber and toe change dynamically as the wheel moves away from static ride height -- either in extension or compression. If you lower the car, each wheel moves in the compression direction. In our case, camber will be a little higher and the rear will toe in slightly.

The factory adjustment bolts should be _plenty_ to get back to factory alignment settings with a small ride height change. If you want some exotic alignment values, then you might need some exotic hardware. You almost certainly don't.

cheers!

donour

EDIT: As a rule when designing racing suspensions, you are very careful when controlling dynamic camber. You want very little change around static ride height and you want the value at full compression to be close to the roll angle of the car. That way the tire experiences a pretty constant angle with the ground. Most cars suck as this (I'm looking at you rally cars). I actually bought an Evora because the designers thought about this when building the car.

See - you are talking to someone here who is completely new to this sort of thing and just trying to absorb as much knowledge as possible

Thank you.

[Bobsy Racer]

Originally Posted by donour

Um. Set it.

Generally speaking, camber and toe change dynamically as the wheel moves away from static ride height -- either in extension or compression.


EDIT: As a rule when designing racing suspensions, you are very careful when controlling dynamic camber. You want very little change around static ride height and you want the value at full compression to be close to the roll angle of the car. That way the tire experiences a pretty constant angle with the ground. Most cars suck as this (I'm looking at you rally cars). I actually bought an Evora because the designers thought about this when building the car.

If the bump steer is correct, there is very little toe change in bump or droop. You certainly do not want any toe out in bump at the front, and especially not at the rear.

Regarding the EDIT on dynamic camber, your analysis is Very well stated !

[tbd_Evora]

No, you really don't want this!!!

http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...ag-Lotus-3.jpg