Single-DIN (non-tech pack) to double DIN aftermarket tips - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Single-DIN (non-tech pack) to double DIN aftermarket tips

Just figured I would share my experience since in most of the research it covers the tech pack cars ditching their awful Alpines for another unit. Well I think most non-tech pack owners want to ditch their POS Alpine for another unit as well...but the wiring is completely different.

I apologize ahead of time-I was under a time crunch tonight and didn't expect it to go as quickly as it did or I would've taken pictures. I am kicking myself because I know how helpful they are, but I think the below description with the photos in the other thread should really help.

Steps are completely the same, the "Evora Stereo Install" thread is super helpful as far as pulling the dash apart. I highly recommend you pull the knee pad off under the steering wheel..while not mandatory, it makes running wires (Sirius/XM, bluetooth mic, etc) much easier.

99% of aftermarket dual-DIN HUs now will come with their chassis able to accept most BMW/MERC/TOYOTA chassis brackets instead of the ghey metal sleeves a lot of other cars use.

The Evora tech pack cars and non tech pack cars come with the SAME mounting brackets. The difference is on the non tech pack cars they only use a single screw on each side to secure the bracket to the HU. Most dual-DINs need two screws on each side, which the bracket will support, and most HUs include in the packaging.

As noted in the install thread, the rear of the HU is attached to some rubber mounting in the back that requires a solid strong pull to get the HU out once you have unscrewed the 4 black screws on the face. Just be weary as it is easy to yank your faceplate off the HU, despite it not technically being removable

The single DIN units also have that plastic shelf on the bottom-once you have removed all the trim, you can take it out. You can do it two ways-it is attached with GM-style interior trim fasteners (the black plastic pieces in the rear of the cubby) and if you have the proper removal tool you can pop them out. Otherwise a good yank will pop them both out easily. That is all it is secured with. The plastic fasteners attach to two L-shaped metal brackets that are attached behind the dashboard. I'm sure they could be removed from behind the dash or by removing the foam and a significant portion of the dash, but it wasn't worth it to me. Since it is pot metal, I just bent them straight and out of the way. You could easily bend them back as needed, but remember that it is pot metal and a few too many bends could result in them snapping.

After that just check all of the wiring (will be different for each case) you need and run accessories as appropriate. There is a decent amount of room behind the unit so if you have an XM box, Alpine powerpack etc you should be fine.

Someone alluded to it in the other thread, and I pulled the manual off of the Alpine website for the CDE-102 as well as checked the diagram on the top of the HU...none were 100% correct...so here is the wiring:

Black=Ground
Purple=power/batt lead
red/black=illum
pink/green=switched power/ignition
orange/purple=power antenna lead/boosted antenna lead
blue/white=remote turn on lead (this was included in the harness loom despite not having a factory amp..so I assume this is an artifact from the tech pack cars, and useful if you later add an amp in the rear, though you'll have to go digging for it)
white/black=front Left neg
white=front left pos
gray/black=front right neg
gray=front right pos


There was also an additional black/white wire that was not labelled on any of the diagrams/didn't make any sense...I didn't wire it up to my new HU and I have no issues.

So far it seems as if there is no conversion harness, so I just cut the wires. For me it isn't a big deal. The harness is short though so make sure if you do cut it, you cut it very close to the end.

Another quick note-if you need a solid ground for small amounts of current or for the back up camera/parking brake/DVD player override-use the 7mm hex bolt that is right next to the fuse box in the passengers side footwell...it's about 5" off the floorboard.


Once you have all of the looms wired up fasten the brackets to the side of the HU, slide it back in making sure all the wires clear the back, and fasten everything back up.

Quick note-if you have to slide the HU back out, it may cant upwards and get hung up on the bottom, at which point you'll have to use a long skinny flathead or something to lift up the bottom and shimmy it out.


All in all, it took me about 2 hours to pull the old one out and reinstall the new one. I have a bit of experience doing car audio stuff....but I think if you have a teeny bit of knowhow, you could accomplish it in 4 hours or less. No special tools were really needed.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Now to get to the HU I ended up going with:

Kenwood DDX-419..chosen intentionally because I wanted a front volume knob, not all touchscreen controls, wanted bluetooth, iphone/pandora integration, didn't really want to have to slide the faceplate down to add a CD, and a few other small things.

Won't get into the specifics of the HU as I haven't had much time to play with, but quick observations...

bluetooth mic is a bit big..but oh well. I ended up running it up the A pillar and having it up by the top corner of the windshield. Easy to hide wires this way as well.

HU goes straight to boot screen and starts when the key is inserted, instead of turning on but going to standby mode...

There is a rear cooling fan..it is a bit noisy.

I made my own background, but unfortunately when you capture the image from a thumbdrive and then it converts it to its background, the colors change..so I'm going to have to toy with a few different hues to get the background I want.

Also, I was speaking wiht another evora owner who was unaware of this, and I apologize if I am preaching to the choir, but Sirius/XM wavelength can see through fiberglass/plastic (XM seems to do better though) so with the help of some fellow LTers I mounted my antenna up under the front access hatch. It works perfect.

Here are some pictures..pardon the poor night iPhone quality. The buttons are actually illuminated to match the dash (red) perfectly in hue/brightness which is nice.



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Old 12-30-2012, 08:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Good job & it Looks good I did a completed system over Thanksgiving Wow what a pain.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Luckily door speakers were upgraded and sealed up better prior to me purchasing it from the dealer so they're already light years ahead. Next it's just real low end
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Good job

I got about 3 hours into my complete install when I decided to let the pros take over. new Pioneer headunit, 2 amps, subwoofer, backup camera, front facing camera/DVR and a "might as well" suede-tex headliner and door pulls.

I have done a good number of installs myself, but this job was a pay grade above my abilities.

Props for doing it yourself
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I wouldn't touch the door speakers so I'm lucky I don't have to..too much to break.

I'm not looking forward to the sub amp rear cam but I do want to get the rear apart to see what's back there and know how to do it. After that once is enough haha
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by invictusmaneo View Post
I wouldn't touch the door speakers so I'm lucky I don't have to..too much to break.

I'm not looking forward to the sub amp rear cam but I do want to get the rear apart to see what's back there and know how to do it. After that once is enough haha
If you have a non-tech package car it does not come with any type of sub enclosure or mounting points. my shop had to fabricate some. Actually when I got to the sub is where a gave up and turned to the pros
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I know-it has a plastic blank under the grill. I'm going another route with the sub/amp, and doubt I'll use that area for anything.

At one point my car had an aftermarket stereo installed by that crap Reus audio company, and they had run RCAs and an amp/sub but removed all of that..except the RCAs are still run-they were easy to grab behind the dash but I can't figure out where the hell they tucked the other end-I pulled everything but the center console apart to find them, so that's my project for whenever I do do the install. They ran them into the center console so I'm guessing they're just tucked up int here somewhere.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=invictusmaneo;1831768]I know-it has a plastic blank under the grill. I'm going another route with the sub/amp, and doubt I'll use that area for anything.

At one point my car had an aftermarket stereo installed by that crap Reus audio company, and they had run RCAs and an amp/sub but removed all of that..except the RCAs are still run-they were easy to grab behind the dash but I can't figure out where the hell they tucked the other end-I pulled everything but the center console apart to find them, so that's my project for whenever I do do the install. They ran them into the center console so I'm guessing they're just tucked up int here somewhere.[/QUOTE

The doors are easy it’s the crossover in the kick panels that are a big pain
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chhirowolf View Post
Good job

I got about 3 hours into my complete install when I decided to let the pros take over. new Pioneer headunit, 2 amps, subwoofer, backup camera, front facing camera/DVR and a "might as well" suede-tex headliner and door pulls.

I have done a good number of installs myself, but this job was a pay grade above my abilities.

Props for doing it yourself
Question: front camera? How does it show up in the Pioneer?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Question: front camera? How does it show up in the Pioneer?


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there is a "video in" in the back of my Pioneer.http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...rs/AVH-P8400BH
right now I have the backup camera plugged into it. My blackview camera/DVR http://www.blackvue.com.sg/products.html

has a "video out" that cam be pluggen in in place of the backup camera. My Pioneer headunit allows me to manually choose the Aux video in. I plan to get a rear view mirror with LCD Welcome to MITO-Auto display and run my backup camera to it. I think it is just more natural to look up at you rear view mirror when backing up, so this should serve me well.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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This is how the dealership had wired up my Pioneer AVIC-F20BT:



This is how I fixed it:





It's such a shame that if you want it done properly, you have to do it yourself.

It makes much more sense to put the iPod underneath the steering column...there's heaps more room there than in the pokey little glovebox.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow, great job
makes you wonder about the other work the dealership might do to your car.
Run, don't walk, to a different dealership
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hifiandmtb View Post
This is how the dealership had wired up my Pioneer AVIC-F20BT:



This is how I fixed it:





It's such a shame that if you want it done properly, you have to do it yourself.

It makes much more sense to put the iPod underneath the steering column...there's heaps more room there than in the pokey little glovebox.
I learned alont time ago for me its best to do the work myself because i am so picky.
I noticed the Sat/GPS antenna on the dash. Please tell me that is hidden under the dash not on top.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It's still on top now (no holes are drilled). I plan to move it (and my eTag electronic toll collector) to underneath the removable cover over the instruments.

Quote:
Wow, great job
makes you wonder about the other work the dealership might do to your car.
Run, don't walk, to a different dealership
The selling dealership wasn't a Lotus one. Fear not, Trivett Lotus in Sydney is great!
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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wow that is scary....

the satellite antenna is easy to run outside--run under the floormat along the chassis on one side of the car (I then taped it down to keep it on the aluminum) then tuck it up along the seam between the kickpanel and the door sill, there is plenty of room to hide it, then tuck it under the door seal rubber on the inside of the car and run it up until that little gap, tuck it through, tuck it neatly into the door still and up into the plastic area in front of the windshield, where youc an loosen the screws, hide the wire and run it underneath that--it gets tricky towards the front access panel but you can sort of floss it in..then WHAMMO! hidden wires and hidden antenna. I kept the extra wire for the antenna neatly away under the dash.
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Hi guys, I know this thread is old, but I'm hoping somebody can help me. I'm in the process of replacing my head unit, the same as invict did above. My wires are exactly as posted above. I just wired up my new Kenwood system (exactly as stated above), but it won't turn on. To test it, I connected the yellow wire from the new Kenwood to the pink/green power wire from the factory unit, and the head unit powers up and works fine. As many probably know, it can't stay like that bc it loses memory when turned off.

So I believe everything is wired correctly, and the HU obviously works. But it won't turn on unless I keep the yellow (constant) wired to the factory pink/green. When I wire the yellow on the new unit to the purple to the existing harness, it doesn't power up.

Anybody have any advise? And I don't mean "take it to a shop" or "have a professional do it". Thanks in advance.

Also, my new unit has a mute wire (brown) that gets wired so when the phone rings, the stereo mutes. Where does that get connected to?
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Try exchanging those 2 wires.
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:19 AM   #19 (permalink)
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you shouldn't need your mute setup, it is designed for cars with built in blue tooth and muting that use a separate system/box.

as TBD said, try switching wires. From HU to HU (and unfortunately sometimes car to car) wiring colors aren't always the same..even amongst the same brands. Sounds like the yellow wire needs to go to your constant on, and whichever is labelled on your harness as the ignition or switched needs to go to the pink/green
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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you shouldn't need your mute setup, it is designed for cars with built in blue tooth and muting that use a separate system/box.

as TBD said, try switching wires. From HU to HU (and unfortunately sometimes car to car) wiring colors aren't always the same..even amongst the same brands. Sounds like the yellow wire needs to go to your constant on, and whichever is labelled on your harness as the ignition or switched needs to go to the pink/green

Did that, and it works now. So I'm going to leave the brown (mute) wire off and hopefully everything will work fine. Thanks a bunch!!!
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