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Tracking Your Evora: Your Feedback Requested

6K views 46 replies 14 participants last post by  SAJ 
#1 ·
We have recently had alot more interest in tracking Evoras. We are currently replacing a clutch on a track focused Evora along with other work. The transmission cables were broken on this car. We have two more Evoras coming in here over the course of the next two weeks and both clients are focusing their cars towards the track. I'm very happy that people are discovering the joys of driving the Evora on track!


  1. Is there interest in better shifter cables?
  2. Clutch & Flywheel upgrade interest?
  3. Swaybar upgrades?
  4. What other items?

We have several Evora parts that make the car safer on track including our harnessbar and harnesses. I'm keen to develop more and would like your input.

Thanks for your feedback!
 

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#2 ·
Hello Shinoo. So far, my car has only had BOE CAI and 2bular track "S" exhaust done (See his Exige V6S system. its like that. WOW!!!)
Also use wheels studs instead of the damn bolts.
The Team Dynamics 18x10 rear wheels , in the hands of someone pushing the car, have a tendency to rub on the front lower edge of the control arm. I have dremeled that rough edge away (excess from the casting). But, you can't just use a spacer for extra clearance because under hard lateral loads, the tire rubs the top inside lip of the wheel well. This is with 275/40R18 R888's. I had 275/35 R18's but withe 40 tires (correct OD), the rake is better and the car just feels better as well as the gearing doesn't feel short. VSA says pillow balls are the answer but there goes the street ride.?? The car is a dream at the track in stock suspension, but I could be interested in the specifics of the upgrades done on the 400 for the future. The fronts are fine. Yet the stock 20's with 285/30R20's seem to have more clearance so I think a BETTER wheel setup is needed for us that don't want full track suspensions. Something like the stock 18/19 in forged setup but then we have tire fitment challenges with DotR last time I looked.
Some don't consider it kosher but I had the head steward for SCCA do my harness belts back in 2011 using the rear crossmember that connects the 2 rear belt pickups. 2 of us pulling hard couldn't make it budge at all. If that is considered insufficient , too bad we couldn't see a heavier bar developed that maintain that clean look or just bolt a mid bar member to it and clamp it in vicinity of central tower.
Swaybars. It would have to be very well calibrated because the car handles VERY neutral at present. 10-20% firmer springs al a Nitrons or track pack was on Elise??

Finally the solid rotors from the NA car are MUCH better than the drilled S rotors. Cracked a front rotor with stock pads in 4 days!! Hawk DTC70's have been fabulous, durable and plenty of bite for street use for those of us that know we cook the rotors long before they wear out. I'll be waiting for your tunes to have a track worthy option that gives us 375-400 at the flywheel with just our intake and exhausts. I'll save the headers for the engine pull (hopefully not for ages) someday.

Hope that helps.
 
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#3 ·
We have recently had alot more interest in tracking Evoras.
I would bet this is due to the price depreciation of the Evora versus the price appreciation of the Elise. Owning both, I find myself grabbing the keys to the Evora if I am going anywhere near traffic. In other words, IMHO the Evora is much more suited to the traffic in SoCal if you plan to ever drive it on the street.
 
#11 · (Edited)
To be fair, Eliges are now (majority of them ) approaching 10 years old. I am seeing more of them break than in their heyday as well. AGE IS CRUEL TO ALL THINGS MECHANICAL. Also, the average track cars HP has gone up ~100 in the past decade so on long straights the Eliges are becoming almost as much a rolling chicane as a Miata. Example, at Thompson and LRP I can hit ~130 in Evora v what used to be ~110 in Elise. If I was running Hoosiers like I used to in Elise I'd be even quicker than I am already which is easily a few seconds/lap on average.

So another thing for track would be necessary upgrades to allow us to run Hoosiers without overloading stock suspension (at least that's what VSA told me). I've already mentioned the wheel rubbing issue.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Forgot to mention yesterday, with stock alignment, my rear Corsas were toast on inside edges with half the outer half remaining. WAY TOO MUCH toe. My first set of R888's were completely bald in the middle and outer edges after 6 track days. With MY alignment specs, I've just completed 7 track days with rear tires (R888's) and they'll definitely survive another hardcore day at LRP easily. Wear is beautifiul. That's a wear improvement of at least 25% and probably more while at the same time turning in more crisply and allowing greater exit speeds. So posting idealized enthusiast alignments will be a GREAT first step. I also like the car much better on the street now.
 
#10 ·
... MY alignment specs, I've just completed 7 track days with rear tires (R888's) and they'll definitely survive another hardcore day at LRP easily. Wear is beautifiul...So posting idealized enthusiast alignments will be a GREAT first step. I also like the car much better on the street now.

Would you be willing to post your alignment specs? We have posted Elise/Exige specs on our Blog and hundreds of people have benefited. We will do the same with Evora specs as we run and test them.
 
#8 ·
The trailer hitch becomes a commercial problem because of the exhaust tip location in the center. A roof rack seems possible. I'd guess that some of the 400 parts will retrofit - though I'm not sure which wants yet.
 
#7 ·
Thx for the feedback. Cross-drilled rotors are usually trouble on track with cars of the Evoras weight or more. I agree that the values have dropped on the Evora and that is helping - along wit the fact that most of the cars are outside of the factory warranty.
 
#12 ·
FWIW siwtching to the GT4 pillowball bushings will require all new damping/spring rates, and rollbars too (per Allen). A big undertaking for most.

clutch/flywheel changes are nice. there are options out there. having switched to the S parts on my NA car, I enjoy it, but it would not be lovable for a lot of folks.
 
#14 ·
FWIW siwtching to the GT4 pillowball bushings will require all new damping/spring rates, and rollbars too (per Allen). A big undertaking for most.

Exactly, its not just a few parts but an entire suspension upgrade!!! Unless you actually race, what's the point? You can't win HPDE track day.
 
#13 ·
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Alignment. Thought I had posted this in the Evora Track thread but here's a refresher. You hit diminishing returns up front trying to get more camber but losing caster. Tire wear, for me , is pretty close to ideal with these settings and I shoot for 32/34 hot on R888's after the cool down lap which probably equates to ~34-35/37-38 coming straight to pit on hot lap (Placard pressures) BTW the parameters you see are what we were shooting for, not factory specs
 
#16 ·
View attachment 1016834

View attachment 1016842 Alignment. Thought I had posted this in the Evora Track thread but here's a refresher. You hit diminishing returns up front trying to get more camber but losing caster. Tire wear, for me , is pretty close to ideal with these settings and I shoot for 32/34 hot on R888's after the cool down lap which probably equates to ~34-35/37-38 coming straight to pit on hot lap (Placard pressures) BTW the parameters you see are what we were shooting for, not factory specs
Did they do the Corner Weights ?
It is Important to have LF-RF and LR-RR %'s even, WITH the Driver's Weight in the car.
 
#15 ·
brgelise: For those wanting to duplicate your setup, they should know if you added driver's seat ballast.

My rear alignment specs are effectively the same as yours but I'm running less camber / more caster in the front--however I'm also experimenting with hardware changes. Also, your alignment guy should be able to get the left & rights much closer. ;) My cross camber and cross camber is 0.0...with ballast.
 
#18 ·
We're talking a 100th's and those numbers were flicking back and forth during the print out. You fart on this car and they change a few hundreds. Due to fixed perches, can't corner balance ideally, but I did add my ballast. BTW with or without ballast makes almost no difference on this car. Was pretty impressed with that.
 
#20 ·
Easy test. Have a buddy sit in car and watch it not (almost) budge.
 
#21 ·
??Brake upgrades?? They have rotors and If you run something like a Hawk DTC 70, the braking is world class. Many other topshelf pads out there as well. I continue to run same pads front and rear with no issues. If anything, it adds a few more % bias to rear. Very balanced for track.
 
#23 ·
Exactly, I am going to be switching from cross dilled rotors and going to a different pad along with braided S/S lines. Upgrades I would say............................You can call it what you want.

I have been looking at the monkey bar set up as well, but you do have to loose the back seat from what I understand. My grandkids would hate me as the still are small enough to ride back there. It won't be long till they grow out of it though.
 
#22 ·
I would definitely have interest in clutch upgrades. With the cost and time involved in replacing the clutch, I would be very interested in upgrading it (when it eventually does need replacement) to get more track life out of it. The car is great on track as is, but I think suspension upgrades will go a long way as well.

I was actually just on Sector111.com last night looking at track upgrades, especially the Monkey Bar and harness setup. I'm quite sure that will be my next major Evora related purchase. Can it be installed without removing the front seats?
 
#28 ·
... especially the Monkey Bar and harness setup. I'm quite sure that will be my next major Evora related purchase. Can it be installed without removing the front seats?
Yes, you can install the monkeyBAR without removing the front seats. Though, if you use our Schroth belts, it would be easier to attach the waist belts with the seat out - though I'm sure it could be done in place. FYI: the front seats are easy to remove.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Our ULTRAdisc rotors have worked out very well on the Evoras. We just installed a set along with the 18" TD wheels. We are installing a balanced clutch/flywheel and new engine mounts shortly on a track Evora. We should have cables done for this car and will make them available to the market.

Clutch replacement is an engine out job. We are trying to get a few products finished that would make sense to install when the clam comes off and the engine/trans out.
 

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#29 ·
How much movement are you seeing with the stock motor mounts Shinoo? ??Might motor movement be compromising shifting??
 
#30 ·
Yes, there is a fair amount of movement - not as bad as the Elise. We expect the shifting to improve. Unfortunately replacing the mounts is a clam off program. This car had lost one of the rear mount bolts and shook badly enough to tear the mount along with one of the side mounts.

This front mount can not be changed without pulling the engine...
 

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#32 ·
I'd be very interested in a rear wheel that has a bit more clearance. Could we get Team Dynamics to make us a 19x9.5 or 19x10 wheel. I think 19x9.5 would be better with a 275/35R19 tire. If I showed you pics of my rear wheels and their inside edges, you might be ???!!!!-eek-:eek::crazyeyes When folks give me crap on this site, these wheels will tell you I make 'r hustle!!
 
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#33 ·
My dealer just recommended to me the Rimstock "Le Mans" wheels which come in 19x9.5, only downside is it only goes up to 45 offset which would stick out quite a bit more than the stock 69 offset.

The only suitable wheels I've found so far are OZ Racing Crono III: 19x8.5 ET46 front, 19x9.5 ET59 rear. Planning to run them with Trofeo Rs in 245/35R19 + 285/35R19.
 
#36 ·
19's should be fine because 18's clear the calipers. Anything that sticks out more will rub at top of rear wheel well. My tires are nicely polished at the edges. Fitment is definitely maxed. get shinoo to get some track time with a significant compression followed by climb to compress suspension while laterally maxed and watch what happens.
 
#41 ·
caliper clearance is going to be more a function of the spoke design, offset, etc. I'm running TD too, and the 18s clear but leave hardly any clearance horizontally. I've read of other folks having problems with aftermarket rim fitment for the same reason
 
#46 · (Edited)
Very good point on 35 v 40 series rubber Bobsy. Use the 275/40R18 because it keeps rake correct, feels better at the limit, and gears better at tracks I run. Thus a 19 in with 35 would probably be a better choice!! Never considered the spokes! My bad.
You went right over my knowledge base with the need to drop a sway bar mount. I thought to corner balance you needed adjustable perches, which our Evoras do not have.
 
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