EFI Tunning Tips Here

[cstetter]

Originally Posted by Kris from DRS

The turbo applications are using certain internal control strategies of the ECU differently then the current version of the new firmware is set up for on the SC or NA maps. It will be available very soon for your car. I have already been in contact with Casey and he will be able to update your system.

thanks,
Kris

Can't wait. Please do post an update when it is ready for us turbo guys.

[turbophil]

Since there's a tuning tips MO to this thread, I plan to be adding some tuning tips for tuning tha VVT before too long... Hopefully others will too.. The bad news is that VVT is a bit of PITA to tune when compared to 2 locked cam positions, which is what we all had before for the intake cam. Obviously that locked intake cam still made good power and very pretty dyno graphs, but it had its drawbacks too. The VVT adjustablility is fun, it's just takes time and load dyno to tune.

The good news is that there will be plenty of maps floating around before too long that others can use. I know Kris has Fred's map and will be tuning an S later this week. I should be done with my tune by next monday evening or so. I spent several hours this weekend ironing out the street/drivability portion of the map, so now it's just a matter of tuning for power.

Thanks to Jim Clayton, for his really cool lap top holder that really makes tuning while driving by your lonesome a breeze I'll post some pics later...

Happy tuning,

Phil

[robains]

I drafted up a quick EFi data logging how to guide:

Rob's EFI Data Logging Tutorial

This is ONLY for fuel map, does NOT change spark maps. You'll have to use your ears and/or Toyota knock sensor (would NOT suggest relying on the knock sensor at all) if you wanna change spark maps.

Hope it helps, again I assume NO responsibility. I'm open for input on changing this guide if I missed something or am in error.

Cheers, Rob.

[Kris from DRS]

Originally Posted by robains

See you next Friday Kris

cool. see you Friday.

[jim-clayton]

Originally Posted by robains

I drafted up a quick EFi data logging how to guide:

Rob's EFI Data Logging Tutorial

This is ONLY for fuel map, does NOT change spark maps. You'll have to use your ears and/or Toyota knock sensor (would NOT suggest relying on the knock sensor at all) if you wanna change spark maps.

Hope it helps, again I assume NO responsibility. I'm open for input on changing this guide if I missed something or am in error.

Cheers, Rob.

Looks good Rob. Thanks for the tutorial! Very professional layout.

I'll break out the laptop this Friday and test out your instructions.

[robains]

Jim,

Also included a quick reference conversion table if you need it -- linked in doc but here is the direct link. I find myself working in F, PSI, AFR so I'm frequently converting the software C, Hg, Lambda values.

If anything needs changing/improving please let me know.

Kris,

I'll bring my ECU also and laptop so I can get the new firmware and do the map conversions -- wonder how your trick head handy work will change the maps? I'm thinking of going from a 3.0" to 2.9" pully (based on how good my air charge temps were back in Dec) so I'll need to work a new map for all these new goodies.

Rob.

[Kris from DRS]

A couple things to remeber though is that not all cars will use the same Lambda ratio. Type of fuel, spark advance, and type of labor on the engine are all variables. The basic Setpoints used are genrally close for most cars, but not 100% for all. Also, the basic maps are calibrated up to 60 Hg (~15 psi above atmosphere). One can fine tune thier resolution if they see fit. For example, if you only maps to control up to 10 psi, set the max value for load at 50 Hg and then interpolate the breakpoints. Conversely, if the engine can run up to 20 psi, set the max value to 70 Hg...etc.

Overall I think it is great to see fellow DRS EFI users help each other out with tips and sharing maps.

Keep up the good work everyone.

Kris

[turbophil]

Hey Rob,

Mighty fine write up, sir! "A" for the day in EFI class

Chat soon,

Phil

[robains]

Thanks phil, I've got more notes that I plan to include over time. Especially on the DBW parts. It's a work in progress.

I haven't braved spark yet, I'm looking at some solutions for hearing detonation before I mess with spark so my spark maps are pretty conservative and based on existing safe maps.

I tried a while back to tap into the stock knock sensor but it's hard to positively identify a detonation spike -- I logged what appeared to be a few spikes but that turned out to be a loose bracket rattling on the intake. Did some more testing and got more spikes but they ALWAYS matched certain SC intake (FF intake so it's loud) whine (regardless of load). My conclusion (which might be premature) was that I just could not rely on the stock knock sensor with my current car setup (maybe if I was running stock air filter/Intake I could) -- so I'm looking at alternatives (affordable). How this relates to EFi, well as I understand it, EFi can use a Knock sensor (or a third party alternative).

I do know that I am NOT gonna run this car on track without my fuel slosh issue resolved, I'm certain fuel starving is another receipe for yet another engine to expire. Hint hint hint hint Phil -- folks are lining up waiting for your solution

And now that we'll have more Cam control that's gonna be awesome, can't wait to work with that.

Rob.

[Kris from DRS]

Rob, Nice work!

Kris

[turbophil]

Hey All EFI users, I thought I would post up the new VVT firmware instructions...

Please note this is for Super Charged and NA cars only at this time... Why? Well ,there's a slightly different wiring change for the turbo cars that I have no idea about since I'm just a lowly supercharged variant....

Why upgrade? Well, the new firmware adds the ability to fully tune the VVT. That's the timing aspect of the intake cam. Before this firmware update, the ability to adjust the VVT was limited to just two positions. With the full control of the VVT capability, you'll be able to garner a flatter torque curve and more power overall than before. Better yet, the smoothness of the car is vastly improved. I felt my car was plenty smooth before this firmware change, and then I made the change and realized just how buttery smooth the car can be. It now has stock like smoothness but with over a 120 more whp and I still have the ability to tweak for future mods I'm happy to provide the actual firmware file and some sample maps to work from for supercharged cars.

Here's the instructions I quickly put together this evening. It shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to get updated...

First, load a VVT enabled map into your ECU. If you're using one of my maps, you will get you reasonably close for future fine tuning the fuel and spark provided that you have 550 injectors and a supercharger. I can help make some universal tweaks if you're using different combinations of injectors, fuel pump, or blower, provided that you're still supercharged. I've got a sample stock compression map and a sample low compression map for a supercharged applications. You can start with these maps and tweak from there…

Next, you’ll need the firmware.

Create a folder in your "power to win" folder called firmware. In the new firmware folder, create another folder called “VVT”. Save the firmware file (.FSX) to your new firmware folder….

Now, go to your EFI ECU. From the larger of the two connectors (the 34 pin connector), remove pin 24 (brown wire) and pin 8 (white wire). To remove these pins, you pop the pin release mechanism by pushing on the single larger white tab. The two small white tabs will pop out. Now, using a paper-clip, push both pin 8 and 24 out of the connector. DO NOT pull on the wires! The connector locations are labeled on the back side. Next, insert the brown wire that was in position 24 into position 8. Leave the white wire, the old pin 8, un installed for the time being. Tape it (the white wire) to your wiring harness, as it will not be used until a later instruction date that will install fan control.

Now, push the two small white tabs back into the connector to lock the pins in place and reconnect your harness.

Next, load your new firmware. To do this, turn your key on with your lap top connected to the ECU and EFI Editor open. Got to “Syscon” at the top of the screen and click “flash loader”. Go to your new firmware file and install it. Be sure to cycle the key off and leave it off for 10 full seconds and then turn the key back on. Your new firmware should be loaded now. You will hear occasional clicking from your engine bay. That’s normal. Look at your “checksum” to ensure that your firmware loaded correctly. It should be 364FH. The checksum is found on the main screen of the editor in the “file folder” window toward the bottom…

So if the checksum is correct, and you have the correct sample map loaded with your lambda settings for your specific wideband 02, and you also have your TPS limits set correctly in your idle constants, then you can start the car. It should tick right over. If not, double check your procedures, map, etc…

Hope that helps...

Best,

Phil

[E.D.]

I have some EFI questions:
1. I guess the EFI ECU will come with a CD-rom with the software or do I need to download it somewhere?
2. I have an Elise with Traction Control. Will I loose the traction control after installing the EFI?
3. See picture of my laptop underneath. I think this port is a RS232 port which is used to communicate with the EFI?
4. Does the EFI (or the TVS kit which I've bought) come with a cable to communicate with a laptop or do I need to buy that separately?
5. If it doesn't come with a cable, is the port on the EFI a male or a female port?

Thanks for helping out!

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by E.D.

I have some EFI questions:
1. I guess the EFI ECU will come with a CD-rom with the software or do I need to download it somewhere?
2. I have an Elise with Traction Control. Will I loose the traction control after installing the EFI?
3. See picture of my laptop underneath. I think this port is a RS232 port which is used to communicate with the EFI?
4. Does the EFI (or the TVS kit which I've bought) come with a cable to communicate with a laptop or do I need to buy that separately?
5. If it doesn't come with a cable, is the port on the EFI a male or a female port?

Thanks for helping out!

Easy enough

1. Comes with CD.
2. Will lose the OEM traction control
3. That must be an old laptop! But yes, that's the right port
4. Comes with needed Cable
5. See #4

[E.D.]

thanks!!

[robains]

There is a TC module for EFi -- but that's an extra cost.

[robains]

For you MP62 + EFi + low comp piston owners (9:1). I've come up with a pretty good map for this combo. It's based on some of Phil's TVS spark map and vanos map plus some of Kris's fuel map + some of my fuel map adjustments. I did a quick piston scope check and a plug check (running the Iridium BKR8EIX), no specs or signs of detonation.

Big thanks to Phil's phone/text message support and Kris's Email input.

If anyone wants it, let me know. What Phil helped me realize is that all the power I lost from swaping out the higher compression 11.5 piston has been regained with timing (about 10 degrees more) and I'm running CA pump gas (91).

Boost max is 9.3 psi, air charge temps are excellent, car just pulls and pulls to 8300 (backed off before rev limiter) -- not sure if it is the head, but I expected the power to fall off around 8K but it was still pushing hard -- rev limit is set to 8400 spark 8500 fuel.

AFR range was 11.5 - 12.0 from 3K - 8.3K 4th gear pulls (up a long steep steep hill).

Street manners are excellent also, smooth everywhere, even parking lots.

For you DBW owners, I highly recommend you set Integral Timer to 2 or 3 -- this is in Power to Win - DC Motor - Constants. It's normally 8, but I find that causes a delay in throttle release (meaning I take my foot off the throttle but rpms continue to increase) which makes me seem like I don't know how to shift (sub 6000 rpm range, it's fine above that). Don't recommend going below a value of 2, this causes fluttering in the throttle on my car.

Rob

[jim-clayton]

When's the Dyno?

[robains]

Oh you numbers guys -- trying to schedule that right now.

[robains]

Dynojet apt. set for this Friday 1pm at a place in Hayward CA "Pro Street". Seem like nice guys and only $65

Rob

[Kris from DRS]

Originally Posted by E.D.

I have some EFI questions:
1. I guess the EFI ECU will come with a CD-rom with the software or do I need to download it somewhere?
2. I have an Elise with Traction Control. Will I loose the traction control after installing the EFI?
3. See picture of my laptop underneath. I think this port is a RS232 port which is used to communicate with the EFI?
4. Does the EFI (or the TVS kit which I've bought) come with a cable to communicate with a laptop or do I need to buy that separately?
5. If it doesn't come with a cable, is the port on the EFI a male or a female port?

Thanks for helping out!

Other option is to use a Serial to USB adapter, I suggest Keyspan brand. Also, if using Windows Vista make sure settings are for North America....long story of how I know this.

Kris