EFI Tunning Tips Here

[elise/europa]

I found the source of trouble causing that I was not able to see online all gauges (or channel): my laptop. I still don't know exactly why. I just took a old laptop with direct RS232, and I was able to see the gauge.

With the possibility to see all channel, I was able to adjust the TPS, very important to control the idle. And now the idle is not so bad.

Still had difficulty with the start up, but my batterie is on charge. I saw that when I was cranking the engine, with a very low power into the battery, I lost the calibration of the TPS with the computer on-line...

Tomorrow I will go to a tuner to test more, and build one open loop map (for track), and based on that, I will build the close loop program for street (at the beginning).

The program is very easy, but I think it should be very nice to have a specific place to program the start mode, like the idle. It still not clear what the ECU is taking as parameter during cranking, like spark timing, crankng pulse (on fuel menu, and not adjustable based on air temperature). It is my major stress at the moment with the EFI, I am using my car on a large band of temperature (-10C to 35C), and no specific cranking menu will maybe not help me.

[Kris from DRS]

Originally Posted by elise/europa

I found the source of trouble causing that I was not able to see online all gauges (or channel): my laptop. I still don't know exactly why. I just took a old laptop with direct RS232, and I was able to see the gauge.

With the possibility to see all channel, I was able to adjust the TPS, very important to control the idle. And now the idle is not so bad.

Still had difficulty with the start up, but my batterie is on charge. I saw that when I was cranking the engine, with a very low power into the battery, I lost the calibration of the TPS with the computer on-line...

Tomorrow I will go to a tuner to test more, and build one open loop map (for track), and based on that, I will build the close loop program for street (at the beginning).

The program is very easy, but I think it should be very nice to have a specific place to program the start mode, like the idle. It still not clear what the ECU is taking as parameter during cranking, like spark timing, crankng pulse (on fuel menu, and not adjustable based on air temperature). It is my major stress at the moment with the EFI, I am using my car on a large band of temperature (-10C to 35C), and no specific cranking menu will maybe not help me.

The cranking mode for spark and fuel are found in the spark constants and fuel constants. For exmaple, most engines favor a cranking limit of about 500 rpm, this is the threshold from crank mode to run mode. The fuel cranking value typically ranges from 4000 Usec to 6500 Usec (depending on injector volume). Once the engine is above the 500 rpm limit the ECU then defaults to the fuel map and the correction tables. For example, most engines will require a warm up enrichment curve. The base maps already come with a preset typical curve that may only need slight altering depending on your ambient conditions (extreme cold climate).

The non-DBW cars use the Idle Constants found in the file folder. Here you can adjust the target idle relative to water temp, and gain for the IAC motor. It is recommended that the closed throttle position is close to 10 Deg.

There is more information on this and more here DRS Engine Control Support

thanks
Kris

[turbophil]

I'll expand on what Kris said for just a bit on the idle for cable cars... If the idle is weak where the cars stumbles from time to time-- like with the A/C on in particular-- it helps to open the throttle plate in .5 degree incriments. My car likes 11 degrees throttle opening and with that the idle is rock steady under any and all conditions... Along with Kris's tutorial, if you go through the tips I put in the first post, you can dial that idle right in on the cable cars...

If your idle isn't perfect, and you'll know what perfect is when you get there, then you can tinker with it some more to get it there. It took me about 30-45 minutes to get my idle to the happy spot that it's in. Part of that time was the learning curve that Kris, others, and I have posted about...

Best,

Phil

[shay2nak]

Since you guys are talking about tuning and I'm going down that path soon, I have a question that might relate to it. What's the purpose of the bung on the header after the collector? I've learned you need it if you want to have a wideband gauge in your car, but is that it? Is it necessary to have this header bung to do tunings? Also is it easy to seal or cover it up? I've got a header on order that has it that's why I'm asking.
thanks

[Dave]

Originally Posted by shay2nak

Since you guys are talking about tuning and I'm going down that path soon, I have a question that might relate to it. What's the purpose of the bung on the header after the collector? I've learned you need it if you want to have a wideband gauge in your car, but is that it? Is it necessary to have this header bung to do tunings? Also is it easy to seal or cover it up? I've got a header on order that has it that's why I'm asking.
thanks

That samples the O2/exhaust prior to the catalyst for an effectiveness comparison. If you're adding an EFI, all you will need is a single bung for wideband.

[turbophil]

You need to have atleast one 02 sensor for tuning and to simply run an ECU in closed loop. The factory uses 2 02's, which is why there are 2 bungs in the stock exhaust. 1 02 is for running the ECU in closed loop and the other is for monitoring the cat's condition.

For cars without cats, you really only need one 02 in most cases. You can either put a plug in your second 02 bung or leave a dummy 02 in.... For tuning you should absolutely use a wideband 02, IMO.

So yes, the bungs in the header are for the 02 sensor (only one is required) and it's for tuning and also for general closed loop operation.

Best,

Phil

[shay2nak]

This one's actually got 3 bungs, 2 on the cat (1 before & 1 after) and 1 on the header. lemme find a pic...

[robains]

On a somewhat related topic, what does the flap do in the stock header? It doesn't appear to move at all, just stays wide open -- on aftermarket headers there is no such fixed flap.

As I understand it, stock O2 sensors are narrow band in most cases with some exceptions.

Just for clarification purposes: closed loop means you're using the O2 sensor (narrow or wide) as an input to the ECU which can then adjust injector pulses to reach a specified A/F ratio. In Open loop the ECU does not use the O2 sensor input.

As I understand it, the stock ECU goes into open loop at WOT. The EFI 1.2 (Lotus) variant stays in closed loop at WOT. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong -- I'm learning this also.

Rob.

P.S. There is no bung on the stock header?? There is a pre and post bung on the cat section.

[turbophil]

I just thought I would add a post here about how to best learn the EFI system.

Anyone considering the EFI, MUST MUST MUST be willing to learn atleast the basics of the software. Most any decent tuner will be able to get the car to run well on the dyno. The maps floating around will get your car close...perhaps very close, but not perfect (that's the point of a standalone- to fine tune).

There's no black magic in fine tuning a bit here and there to take a borrowed map and make it your map and work perfectly on your car.

It simply take *willingness to learn* the software and do a little tinkering. For small drivability issues, idle, cam change, starting, etc, you simply make a small change and go for a drive. Be sure to save your old map in a safe place and just start tweaking. Small or fine tuning will not blow your engine and doesn't take years of tuning to figure out. It just takes some experimentation and curiosity.

So how do you learn the software? Your best bet is the phone. Call the people that have the EFI and ask them. I bet they'll be happy to visit. Whether it's me, Kris, Dave, Casey, Fred, etc just give 'em a call. Then refer back to these tuning tips for reference... It's really quite fun, but you need to want to learn it...

Best,

Phil

[Solo2Elise]

Can someone please let me why I cannot even connect with EFI? I use a USB sreial coverter and port setting is correct but it never connects with EFI. I've tried at least a couple of hours with any luck. PLease help.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by Solo2Elise

Can someone please let me why I cannot even connect with EFI? I use a USB sreial coverter and port setting is correct but it never connects with EFI. I've tried at least a couple of hours with any luck. PLease help.

Try a different brand of USB to serial converter. I went through 3 different ones before I found one that worked right. Had the same problem with a OBD2 reader program too, wouldn't connect. You installed the drivers, right?

Side note, I ended up getting an older laptop that has an actual 9 pin serial connector...almost impossible to find anymore.

[jim-clayton]

I have no luck uploading my data logging file from the EFI. Connects fine for map sync but won't upload data file without error. I have tried Belkin and Keyscan adaptors.

[2-Y-CHROMOSOMES]

Originally Posted by Solo2Elise

Can someone please let me why I cannot even connect with EFI? I use a USB sreial coverter and port setting is correct but it never connects with EFI. I've tried at least a couple of hours with any luck. PLease help.

Belkin and Keyscan are the way to go.
Make sure that Power to Win is set to the right com port once the serial is setup.
You could drop by and then I can check it out.

[robains]

It likes to default to COM4 on the emulation from USB device - this is fine in most cases. Do a scan in Power To Win, it should find it. Also check laptop, some don't follow spec and only allow COM1 and COM2 so you may need to manually tell the USB to COM device to use COM1 or COM2 and then tell Power to Win to use COM1 or COM2.

With Phil's help and some reading I'm starting to enjoy Power to Win and EFI. You can also copy paste entire groups across maps -- i.e. Phil's Lambda for his NGK wideband (Phil per Kris, pin changes are needed at ECU connector #1 and #2 for Lambda 2 - Kris had already done this for you).

Other note, Lambda 1 appears to be Narrow Band, Lambda 2 appears to be Wideband.

For those DBW folks, DC Motor is the section controlling this, IAC Idle section can be ignored.

[Solo2Elise]

I did install the driver and port number on power to win does match the USB to serial port number, com4. I will go find other brands today. I only saw this one I bought at Brokaw Fry's yesterday. I will check another Fry's today then. Wish me luck.

[turbophil]

As Rob said, It's a com port issue. Always use the same usb port with the adapter. You may have to change the com port in the windows config the first time and then it should be fine thereafter...

Cool news Rob. Makes sense on the pin after we talked...

Just like any program it will do exactly what we tell it to do--- which can be both good and bad

Cheers all,

Phil

[Solo2Elise]

How do you scan for a port?

[mark.r]

Mine likes port 3 . . .

[Solo2Elise]

Do we need to start up engine to connect with EFI?

[robains]

Just turn on car, don't need to start.