EFI Tunning Tips Here

[Dave]

Originally Posted by jim-clayton

I have no luck uploading my data logging file from the EFI. Connects fine for map sync but won't upload data file without error. I have tried Belkin and Keyscan adaptors.

Jim,

Are you certain data logging is indeed installed? Logging is an option and not included with the base EFI. There is nothing else special to do if you are already talking to the box for maps. What exactly is the error?

[Solo2Elise]

I cannot find Belkin USB to serial converter at local Fry's. Tried Brokaw and Lawrence. Anyone in bay area knows where to get one?

[mark.r]

Originally Posted by Solo2Elise

I cannot find Belkin USB to serial converter at local Fry's. Tried Brokaw and Lawrence. Anyone in bay area knows where to get one?

Have you tried Radioshack?

[jim-clayton]

Originally Posted by Dave

Jim,

Are you certain data logging is indeed installed? Logging is an option and not included with the base EFI. There is nothing else special to do if you are already talking to the box for maps. What exactly is the error?

Hey Dave,
Yes I had it installed. The "download data" has worked a couple of times.

The progress bar comes up and quits have way through. I forget the exact
error message. I'll get back to you on that.

What setting do you use to start the data logging?

[turbophil]

JC- It must be that damn Mac! LOL.... sorry, I got nuth'in...

Cheers,

Phil

[Dave]

Originally Posted by jim-clayton

Hey Dave,
Yes I had it installed. The "download data" has worked a couple of times.

The progress bar comes up and quits have way through. I forget the exact
error message. I'll get back to you on that.

What setting do you use to start the data logging?

The logger is constantly collecting data starting right at engine crank. Make sure you start the download after shutting the motor down, then turn the key back to acc position with motor off. Hit Ctrl+D and the file downloads to the C:\Power to Win\Data directory.

Check also your logging table (under the config tab). Turn off any channels you really don't plan to use. There are also several enabled by default that aren't even utilized by the 2ZZ, so disable them by double-clicking and set sample to 'off.' This could be part of the problem. Also, reduce all the sample rates of the channels that aren't critical to save memory and increase logging time. (100Hz uses the most memory...and fast).

[Solo2Elise]

Still have no luck connecting with EFI. Tried with 4 different USB to serial adapters and 2 laptops, one with XP and one with Vista. Got this strange errors:

1. Error Reading EFI memory
2. Runtime error 5: invalid procedure call or argument

[robains]

What version of Power to Win are you running? (should be 7.1.7) Also what firmware version do you have? Did you get the unit from Kris at DRS?

[Solo2Elise]

Originally Posted by robains

What version of Power to Win are you running? (should be 7.1.7) Also what firmware version do you have? Did you get the unit from Kris at DRS?

I do have 7.1.7 power to win. Not sure which firmware I have.
I got this EFI from someone on the forum but Kris helped me install and tune it. There was no problem that Kris could connect with it when the car was in La Habra. Just after I drove back it can never be hooked up with my laptops. Feeling frustrated now.

[turbophil]

This has got to be an issue with your serial convertor and port settings...

Best,

Phil

[robains]

What brand LapTop's are you using?

If you're able to enter the Laptop's BIOS, look for a setting regarding "Legacy USB Support" and enable that.

Another option is to run a loop back test in USB to Serial adapter and see if you get any errors.

Also, check the OS Event Logs and look for any errors that might relate to the Power to Win and/or USB. Look in the Application Log, System Log, and Security Log. In WinXP you can do this by right clicking "My Computer" and click on "Manage" from there select the Event Viewer in the list and pick select one of the above mentioned logs and look for any errors around the time you failed to communicate and/or plugged in the USB to Serial adapter.

Another thought, do you have the rear speaker magnet near the USB and/or RS232 cable? Have you tried tracing the RS232 cable back to the EFI unit and making sure all is good there?

[charliex]

What you ought to do is find out what chip is inside the serial<>usb adapters that work, saying its a belkin might not work since belkin changes between prolific and ftdi etc, either use the drivers loaded for the working ones and determine the maker from the usb pid/vids or the driver names, or look on the chip itself.

I usually have more luck with the FTDI than the prolific with most of the legacy devices.

USB<>serial adapters do not truely recreate RS232 which is the base of the problem, some of them simulate RTS/CTS and others include the hardware to do it, find out if the power to win software is using flow control, or just dumping the data with no flow control, thats usually what they do but its less accurate and leads to more problems, changing the baud rate can help as the usb<>serial adapters all have timing problems.

there are lots of places you can buy rs232 enabled laptops for cheap thats what a lot of people do when they're stuck with RS232. This place in vegas has a bunch LaptopXchange™ - We Buy Sell Trade Service & Upgrade Laptops & Computer Laptop Franchise Information theres a place in socal that sells them too, i forget the name, wierd stuff in san jose area might have some too, but they're fairly easy to find over the web. the older IBM thinkpads are really useful here.

just make sure you get one that comes with or can be upgraded to a version of windows the software needs.

also there are pcmcia cards that have serial support, they usually better but are very expensive.


so find out if it needs flow control and match the adapter, try a different baud rate if possible and check who makes the inteface chip, not who packages and sells it.

[Solo2Elise]

Got another expensive adapter from SocketSerial(TM). Still not working. Changing latency and baud rate didn't make any difference. The cable connecting with EFI is very tight. Power to Win did find the ECU so I don't think this cable has an issue. Waiting for another copy of Power to Win from Kris and hopefully that will resolve the problems.

[Solo2Elise]

Just tried on a dock with a serial port on it. Same result. Got it connected but Power to Win just crashed.

[robains]

I'll see you this weekend and hopefully we can sort it out.

Rob.

[Kris from DRS]

Originally Posted by Dave

The logger is constantly collecting data starting right at engine crank. Make sure you start the download after shutting the motor down, then turn the key back to acc position with motor off. Hit Ctrl+D and the file downloads to the C:\Power to Win\Data directory.

Check also your logging table (under the config tab). Turn off any channels you really don't plan to use. There are also several enabled by default that aren't even utilized by the 2ZZ, so disable them by double-clicking and set sample to 'off.' This could be part of the problem. Also, reduce all the sample rates of the channels that aren't critical to save memory and increase logging time. (100Hz uses the most memory...and fast).

Another thing I would suggest is if you don't need data right upon start up, set the enable to X rpm and disable rpm to a value you think fits your needs.
As Dave mentioned, the Logging Table will have ALL of the ECU channels listed, some are not used by the 2ZZ. The basics channels I suggest to use for tuning would be: Injection, Spark, Sync position, RPM, Throttle, Lambda 1 (or 2 if using wideband), Water T, Air T, Airbox, Lambda Setpoint, Lambda Cor 1, and Duty 1 if you are using the boost control on a turbo application.

Kris

[robains]

Just wanted to add a note relating to DBW and idle hunting (based on Kris's input also).

Under DC Motor | Pedal Position - I changed the Pos 4 breakpoint from 192 @ 9 degrees to 196 @ 9 degrees based on the Monitor ADC realtime values for "Exhaust Pressure" (assuming this is a free channel not used normally and is now setup for DBW input/output). I noticed that when the car is not running Exhaust Pressure/aka Pedal Position was at 192 bits. But when I start the car it's at 196 bits with occassional drops to 192.

This change has helped remove some of the idle hunting, but I might need to adjust fuel in addition to get it perfectly smooth.

I also adjusted the Air Temp sensor calibration and Water Temp calibration as they didn't appear to match real world temps. The Air Temp was as much as 7 degress C off what I tested. I'm gonna dare suggest that calibration of these sensors is critical BEFORE any tuning is started.

Now the scarey part for me (just not enough knowledge yet). I installed NGK wideband and did the pin change to support Lambda 2. I loaded up Phil's Lambda 2 values as he is using the same NGK wideband. However, the car under load does NOT like the Lambda 2 values. Now here is the scarey part, if I switch back to Lambda 1 the car runs great under load.

I would love to get some Lambda 2 hints.

I have to say, I'm kinda enjoying this.

[turbophil]

The process of "Discovery" is truly awesome, IMO. I'm glad you feel the same

So without looking at what your Lambda1 corrections or what your Lambda 2 readings are with the WB 02 hooked up, it's hard to say why it's not liking it... Provided that you have your configs right in the Lambda constants (1 and 2), then I bet the reason it runs okay on the NB 02 setting with the WB02 is because it's not using the 02 at all in that case and it's just running off the Injection Map. Recall that the 02 is just there to trim/add fuel to achieve the Lambda setpoint figure, right? If the injection map is even remotely close, the car will run fine with no trimming at all. My car will run quite well with no 02 for instance...

It sounds like your WB 02 is either config'ed wrong at either the hardware (wired incorrectly) or software level (Probably in the constants in this case). What does your Lambda 2 say your AFR is when the WB 02 is in use with the current settings? If your car runs poorly with the WB 02 hooked up, I bet you would be seeing some really goofy Lambda2 readings...

Also did you switch over to Lambda 2 for referencing when you went from NB to WB?

Best,

Phil

[robains]

I'll check the Lambda 2 config -- it's very possible I could have missed something, but you know I'm pretty meticulous

My car is running pretty good with no Lambda correction so obviously my Inj. map is close -- however it is rich up top with AFR in the 10's under load. I will adjust Inj. map before I get into Lambda correction. As you know my timing is pretty conservative.

I know NGK out is good as I also feed that signal to my IQ3 dash (and it is dead on in sync with the NGK AFX display/reading) in addition to EFI -- also verified wiring is correct and I do indeed see consistant voltage changes in Lambda 2 control in EFI (consistant to what the IQ3 logger sees). My hunch is your corrections are too large for my Inj. map (550 injectors) -- but I should be able to verify this.

Phil, could you recap your Lambda 2 tuning process for me, I know you explain it once, but I think I was on overload at the time.

On a side note, does anyone know if the stock Knock sensor to ECU is analog? (assuming it is).

I need to pull the plugs also, that should be a good read.

[slaughtr]

An update on my car...

After some track related car repairs I finally went out and finished (for now) the tune on my car. With a base map from Kris and some excellent advice from Phil, my mechanic and I hooked it up and went at it. I installed a wideband O2 sensor from Innovate as well as A/F ratio and boost gauges. The gauges went into the aluminum center stack gauge pod from Blackwatch racing which I have to say looks excellent.

My base tune was pretty good, but had some areas with too much fuel, for safety sake. The whole thing only took about an hour and a half, making small adjustments in the air fuel ratio at idle, cruise and full throttle. We added a bit of timing too.

The car runs better than it ever has. I'm really happy. We may have taken a bit too much fuel out at cold start-up, but we only got one shot at that so it will have to wait. Other than that, the idle is rock steady, cruises without any hiccups and is scary fast.

Thanks Kris and Phil!