Newbie ECU/Tuning Questions

[charliex]

Well if you're attempting to pull chips off with your hands, that might be the first clue, but yes you can replace and remove BGA's without an automated machine, ie by hand.

My hot air station requires me to hold it in my hand, its quite tough and i normally just send them out to a place that has a 40K+ machine that replaces them for a lot less than the damaged board is worth, but it is something you can do by hand if you're in a pinch, if you're prototying schmartboards let you hand solder BGA's , but its not impossible to do with the right tools.

i dunno if the socketed bga would work, there isn't a lot of room to fit anything, depends how much height it added.

[codymac]

I just use a hammer and a chisel - works great if you hold your tongue just right and use a big enough hammer.

[Ryephile]

We're definitely on different pages if you're literally hand-holding BGA assembly during hot-air rework. You might as well use a heat-gun! "By hand" is traditionally used in the context of typical solder pencils et al, not "assistance machines" like hot-air rework stations and obviously not automated pick-n-place or reflow ovens. If you're interested in professional solder rework solutions [like implementing a socketed BGA which is good for several thousand insertions, which adds about 7mm of height] PM me, otherwise I'd like to get back to the topic.

Can you help point to the threads you've made in the past that describe the ECU's functionality [sensors used and strategy]. I've searched quite thoroughly and am coming up with minimal actual information. It's a veritable desert compared to Subie and Evo worlds!

Cheers,
Ryan

[charliex]

Yeah i don't think anyone would seriously attempt to use a traditional soldering iron to get under the pins in BGA, since its physically impossible to do, i guess i don't see where you're going with that one.

I use a picker/placement tool, heater and a hot air work rework which i hold with my hand, the only difference between the two is how the heat is managed, one goes by air, one by the metal tip of the iron.

As for the professional tools, yeah what do you think i use 7mm is probably too high, the cpu is underneath and its all sealed inside, it sits almost flush with the case, which is a one piece unit with the connector.


Sensors are all listed in the parts manual, rpm/load, maf sensor for most of the time, the ecu supports different modes though and uses preset when things go wrong.

What is it you're specifically looking for ? The subie/evo worlds have considerably more cars and interest.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by charliex

Sensors are all listed in the parts manual, rpm/load, maf sensor for most of the time, the ecu supports different modes though and uses preset when things go wrong.

What is it you're specifically looking for ? The subie/evo worlds have considerably more cars and interest.

It sounds like I have to start by downloading the parts manual.

I'm looking for the whole smash; strategy, wiring harness diagram, sensor characterizations. In the end, you already know what I want though; a reasonable GUI with the ability to modify key operational parameters. Write up an "as-is" contract in the bill of sale and start making some cash for people doing big projects.

[charliex]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

It sounds like I have to start by downloading the parts manual.

I'm looking for the whole smash; strategy, wiring harness diagram, sensor characterizations. In the end, you already know what I want though; a reasonable GUI with the ability to modify key operational parameters. Write up an "as-is" contract in the bill of sale and start making some cash for people doing big projects.

Thats what i did.

[Ryephile]

So....how much...and what hardware do I need to support it? PM me.

[charliex]

I don't sell it, and its all custom hardware.

[Ryephile]

Understood. You only allow select shops use it under contract or rent out yourself with the setup for custom live tuning. Could you please list the authorized shops?

[kverges]

Charlie is vastly more experienced than I (I have done 3 Greddy eManage piggyback setups) and for a turnkey setup I'd use his tunes. I am an obstinate DIY control freak who just has to be able to do my own stuff.

I am truly confused by the piggyback problems. As far as I know and on every car I have tuned, a stock ECU in closed loop aims for 14.7:1 (stoichiometric) A/F ratio. If you alter the volumetric efficiency of the car (eg CAI), it will adjust the fuel trim (and probably scalars or open loop look-up tables) to get back to 14.7:1. If you use a piggy to tune outside 14.7:1 while in closed loop, same thing. So, when you get into closed loop, the adjusted scalars or look up tables will change. For a CAI (which works in part by making the car initially get leaner at WOT and hence make more power than a more conservative stock tune), the car will "learn" to be more rich, and power gain goes away, at least in part.

When you mess with power adders, the problem gets more pronounced.

My solution is very simple-minded, since I do not know the inner details and workings of the Lotus ECU tables, scalars and algorithms. I tune for 14.7:1 any time the car is in closed loop, and make A/F and timing adjustments only in open loop. My tune has been stable, safe and reliable for years now. Undoubtedly not optimum, but when I want to check it, make a change, or troubleshoot any issue, I have the ability to do so myself, and as gifted as Charlie is, he is one person and mortal and I just want to be able to be self-sufficient.

[charliex]

Currently just VF in maryland, and sinclaires in london, uk, since these guys are developing kits and tunes with me.

I prefer to use tripoint's dynapack in canoga park ,ca or SGP racing's dynapacks in houston, tx, for when i'm doing tuning for individuals, but i travel just about anywhere in the world, though i'm happier if they have a dynapack.