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Old 10-17-2007, 05:56 PM   #141 (permalink)
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So about the same price as a Hondata then. Any news on your dry sump woes? It really is a shame it won't work as is, that thing is a work of art.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:43 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Aarno, The dry sump saga continues and ADR engineering has chosen to walk away from the issues. Being dead set on running a dry sump has made my already large project even larger. I am now working on my own design dry sump, learning cad/cam software and designing a reduction drive to run the externally mounted oil pump. Progress has halted on the car while I am sidetracked with the design and all of the obsticles involved with manufacturing my own design. It will be slick when it is done if I live that long!
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:11 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Dan, I have a solution: Clone yourself! Temporary solution: Accusump.
You could get to the main areas of the swap and get back to the dry sump later. As you start outsourcing things for the system, time will go by as you're waiting for others to make the stuff. I do realize that as you start another area like the dry sump, it's gets interesting and you get involved in it extensively and want to finish it. I don't want to dampen your spirits, but unfortunately, there's a lot of other areas to tackle. Hang in there.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:41 AM   #144 (permalink)
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In Japan automobile owners are taxed heavily based on the age of their vehicle, this promotes their economy buy forcing people to buy new cars often.

This is not true... I've lived in Japan now and payed these taxes for over 13 years. All taxes on vehicles here are based on the Engine Displacement and Gross Vehicle Weight regardless of the age of the vehicle. The statement you made was fabricated a long time ago by engine importers that didn't want the customers to know that 95% of the engines imported came out of crashed vehicles. I've seen this posted on pretty much every car forum on the net and it drives me nuts. These imported engines are usually from low speed or rear end crashes and are in great condition. There is usually little to worry about in purchasing them, but the fabricated lie that started about 10 years ago must be stopped.
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:46 AM   #145 (permalink)
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Also would like to say nice work on the swap so far. I've done a few 20B rotory swaps in to a FD and FC that included building manifolds and working out ITB's as well as putting together and building a large number of other 13B RX-7's for customers and freinds and I can most definitly appreaciate the work. I look forward to your future updates.

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Old 10-18-2007, 08:50 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Dragon, Thanks for clarifying the myth, whey do they always have less than 30,000 km on them?
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Old 10-18-2007, 08:57 AM   #147 (permalink)
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What is a 20b? I did some 12a's and 13b,s in the past bride-ported them and
turboed them and then eventually cracked the apex seals. I always liked how
smooth they were but always had a difficult time keeping the mufflers alive and. They have very high egt temps.

Thanks for the support and interest in my swap.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:10 AM   #148 (permalink)
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Japans pretty small and so not a lot of miles get racked up on them. Also most people over in mainland Japan use the trains as primary transportation and don't actually drive their cars all that much. I for instance only put 18,000 km's on my new RX-8 in two years of driving it every day. I am stuck on a island so that does limit me a bit, but I still probably log more miles than most of the locals. Gas here is also about $4.50 a gallon so that also definitly limits their driving. If I'd have to guess I would say that most of them are probably under 60,000 kms with the majority being around 30,000 kms. On a side note I sold the RX-8 a couple weeks ago and picked up a white 2006 Exige last week. Every time I walk down stairs I feel like I'm a kid opening Christmas presents.

Last edited by Dragon : 10-18-2007 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:11 AM   #149 (permalink)
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Mike, I plan to get back to the swap after I get the oil pump transmission done so I can finish my pan drawing. Because if the way I am driving the dry sump pump I cant complete the drawing of the pan until I finalize the drive location. I am waiting on gear stock as we speak but plan to get going again soon.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:16 AM   #150 (permalink)
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What is a 20b? I did some 12a's and 13b,s in the past bride-ported them and
turboed them and then eventually cracked the apex seals. I always liked how
smooth they were but always had a difficult time keeping the mufflers alive and. They have very high egt temps.

Thanks for the support and interest in my swap.
20B is a 3-rotor engine that only came in the early 90's Cosmo that was only sold in Japan. Only 4,000 engines were sold in cars and 1,000 crate engines to use as replacement were made. Here are a few pic's of the two I built for my cars.

First turbo'd one was running a Microtec and the N/A ITB engine was run on a Motec M4...










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Old 10-18-2007, 09:17 AM   #151 (permalink)
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Dragon, welcome to the Lotus world! I got bit by the Exige when I first saw one in a magazine and that was all she wrote. I love the looks, the feel and with more power feel it will be the perfect package.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:22 AM   #152 (permalink)
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WOW, that is cool! I had heard about 3 rotor motors before but always thought they were a custom build. How did they hold up. Nice looking manifold.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:27 AM   #153 (permalink)
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The Top Gear episode when the Exige first came out sealed the deal for me. I definitly will be working on getting some more umph in to the lower RPM's with a supercharger some time soon. Unfortunatly with the every 2 year inspecitons that are manditory here in Japan engine swaps are a PITA. You have to have the original type engine in the car to get threw them as it is listed on the title. For this reason I'll probably end up going with the Katana kit once I see the new 06 version is running well in a few other cars.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:34 AM   #154 (permalink)
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WOW, that is cool! I had heard about 3 rotor motors before but always thought they were a custom build. How did they hold up. Nice looking manifold.
They have TONS more Torq than the 13B and a sweet exaust note... The turbo'd one sounded like a F1 car at high rpm's and just sounded deep and pissed at idle. The N/A one sounded like a swarm of locusts at idle and like it was going to inhale the world the second the throttle bodies opened. They hold up better as well since the power is divided up over 3 rotors. Ie. 600hp on a 13B is 300 per rotor where as 600hp on the 20B is 200 per rotor + way more torq since you have one more power stroke per revolution. They are however fuel pigs.
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:18 AM   #155 (permalink)
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They are however fuel pigs.[/quote]

Sometimes that can be a good trade. Rebuilding reciprocating engines that have high wear, eat rings, valve jobs and spring are a minus. It's nice to have something that doesn't need attention so much.

What's the stock hp on the 3 rotor? Any idea about the weight?
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:03 AM   #156 (permalink)
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lol @ the notion that rotary engines require less attention than a piston engine.
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:43 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Dragon, Thanks for clarifying the myth, whey do they always have less than 30,000 km on them?
cars are a luxury good plus its a small country..
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:30 PM   #158 (permalink)
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gas prices are high and traffic is bad, and the public transportation is good, at least it was when i lived there.
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Old 12-30-2007, 01:49 AM   #159 (permalink)
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Mike, I plan to get back to the swap after I get the oil pump transmission done so I can finish my pan drawing. Because if the way I am driving the dry sump pump I cant complete the drawing of the pan until I finalize the drive location. I am waiting on gear stock as we speak but plan to get going again soon.
Hi Dan -

I just stumbled onto this again after quite awhile. Lots of catch-up reading. Did you ever consider an electrically-driven sump pump? Could be done as a variable-speed drive based on engine RPMs and would alleviate a lot of packaging concerns.

I agree with MikeW's thoughts about an Accusump. Has the extra added advantage of being able to pre-lube prior to a cold start and 10-20 seconds of lubrication in the event of a loss of oil from the pickup (or a holed pan).

Also, cloning yourself would help accelerate your project.

What was shoulder surgery? Rotator cuff? Had mine done a year-and-a-half ago. No d@mn fun. Hope you're much better.

Great (and very ambitious) project. Best of luck.
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:22 AM   #160 (permalink)
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Staying away

For all of those who are wondering what happened to me I just wanted to
touch base and let you know I have been staying away from posting because
I have made little progress on the car. Life has gotten in my way and I have been focusing on other issues like a remodel that will be finished soon. When you get burned out on a project and it becomes a chore rather than enjoyment it is best to take a break and let time recharge your battery. Soon I will finish my remodel and the car is next on my list. If all goes as planned the car will be running this summer. Sorry to disappoint all those who have followed my progress but I promise to get after it again soon.

Last edited by exigeme : 01-06-2008 at 05:26 PM.
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