Engine no start. :(

[tandemracer]

Looks just like the pictures from this post:

Cam sprocket! HELP!



Maybe the VVT controller was not reinstalled correctly?

http://www.dothedouble.com/celica/EG6009-TOY.pdf

[Bender Rodríguez]

Given that your compression test was very consistent I really wouldn't suspect a timing issue.

[jim-clayton]

Originally Posted by hegg

Alright, opened the top back up to check timing and I see:


Am I misinterpreting the manual's diagrams?

The painted links will line up multiple times. You need to keep cranking until the painted links are in the correct position. The problem is you can't see the painted link for the crank. All three links must be exact.

Once the painted links are all set, it takes nine revolutions to bring the painted links back to the same position. The links don't line up with every revolution.

Here's some pictures I found. The link on the right side must line up with the groove in the hub. ( the full / longest groove )

[hegg]

Thank you for the great replies and pictures. I'll rotate the crank to get those painted chain links to line up again. I assembled them lined up, but then when I re-adjusted the timing last time it was because the dots didn't look like they lined up. I probably had it right the first time.

[jim-clayton]

I was confused the first time too. I was sure I had it correct but the links didn't line up after a revolution.

I pulled the front cover back off to double check.

I counted the revs for future reference.

The toyo repair manual was not great for setting up the timing marks.

TurboPhil directed me to some good info and pictures.

[Kris from DRS]

Originally Posted by hegg

I was thinking of trying that method to check for spark since I couldn't come up with anything else other than maybe trying to rig up my old timing light somehow.

I'm feeling sorta worried I got the cams hooked up wrong. I hand-cranked the engine through a few times and it seemed like it went normally, so I hope there at least hasn't been piston-to-valve contact. Maybe I got a cam off by one tooth?

don't let the fact that its a modern engine discourage you. all the same old principles apply.

you can use a timing light just like you would on a plug wire, simply clamp it around the group of wires near the coil itself.

also, to test injection you can use a 12V LED (or Noid light) by placing the 2 male prongs into the injector connector sockets. when cranking (or running) you shoudl see this light flash as the given ECU injector driver pulses.

you can also purchase inexpensive generic OBD2 readers at most auto supply stores. this can help direct you into diagnosing a sensor error.

good luck
Kris

[glb]

working on no sleep and I may be misinterpreting, but


Timing marks are for TDC of #1 cylinder, right?

Therefore, you know you have it if you can feel the compression stroke in #1.

As you can't stick a finger in plus hole, a screwdriver would work, wouldn't it?

[hegg]

Well I rotated the engine until I got the chain links lined back to where they were supposed to be and put the intake cam back on the link I had it on originally (it was correct). Buttoned it all up and fired right up! Idled for a good 10 mins and everything checked out great - no codes either. Nothing leaking, no overheating, blipped the throttle a few times, and it all seemed pretty good. Idle sat right about 1,000 revs. Started it a couple times just to make sure it'd restart and it did.

The only thing that raised a small eyebrow was that it felt a little rougher than I remember, but I'm thinking the new stiff motor mounts can be attributed to most of that, plus it's up on stands, not on rubber tires, and I was sitting on the sill and not on the seat, so there's more vibration going straight to my butt.

Well, time to put the body all back on and go for a jaunt around the block. Let's hope all is well!

Thank you very much for the input. Hopefully this is it and I'll get many thousands of miles of happy motoring on the new engine.

And I'll never let someone borrow it again.

[Bender Rodríguez]

Great News!

[tandemracer]

Originally Posted by hegg

Well I rotated the engine until I got the chain links lined back to where they were supposed to be and put the intake cam back on the link I had it on originally (it was correct)...

Are the pictures in post 40 from when the timing was correct or incorrect?

[hegg]

Originally Posted by tandemracer

Are the pictures in post 40 from when the timing was correct or incorrect?

That was when the timing was incorrect. The intake sprocket is off by one tooth (I hadn't rotated the orange links back around at that point).

[hegg]

Finally got the car all back together yesterday and went for a drive (to 'get gas'). Glad to report that the car does move under its own power!

A few questions though - if the engine is misfiring at all, does the ECU pick it up and throw a code? It feels like it's running rough, but I don't have any CEL showing, even after about 10 mins of driving. I'm hoping I can attribute the "rough" running to the new, stiffer Manly Mounts I installed as part of the rebuild. If so, they're much stiffer than I expected cuz it's pretty rough. That's fine though - not a big deal if that's what's causing all the vibration. So I guess the question is: if there's no CEL, is my engine "just dandy"? I'm just not well-versed in how smart these computer controlled cars are....

Second (and this is probably a separate topic) - I've got a flat spot in acceleration when I hit the pedal a certain amount - maybe 20% - 25%. Since the rings are new, I'm going easy for the most part, but it feels like it's struggling if I try to give it some beans.