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Old 02-06-2005, 02:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forcedfed
275 horsepower Stage 1 kit with optional redesigned baffled alumium oil pan (recommended for track sessions and hard use for both N/A and Turbo versions)

Forcedfed Aluminum Baffled Oil Pan $475
Do you have any pics of the new baffled aluminum pan? Have you had any success baffling the stock steel Toyota pan (and maybe tested it on the track with some R-compound tires)?
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Old 02-06-2005, 11:13 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Can the tranny handle 400 hp w/out being modified to cope?
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Old 02-06-2005, 11:31 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brookester
Can the tranny handle 400 hp w/out being modified to cope?
If the engine has 400 horsepower, it will eat the stock transmission for lunch.
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Old 02-06-2005, 12:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aletes
If the engine has 400 horsepower, it will eat the stock transmission for lunch.
not to mention render the gear ratios ..um... silly?
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:33 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Is 7200 the amount including installation, and if not how much and how long does it take?
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:53 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuenant
Is 7200 the amount including installation, and if not how much and how long does it take?
"Introductory Installed price for the first 2 kits at Forcedfed $8700"
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Old 02-07-2005, 06:50 PM   #27 (permalink)
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what do we do if we're from the east coast

I know KTR, they worked on my 71 Elan S4SE...nice guys. My regular mechanic for the Elan (7's & Elans) sent me to them. I felt so small around all the prancing horses and bulls.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forcedfed
We have our installer at the standby in MA for the East Coast guys, and I am finalizing our Floridian center as well:


KTR Performance LLC.
99 Fitchburg Rd.
Ayer, Massachusetts 01432
Tel: 978-772-9911
Fax: 978-772-9499
E-mail: info@ktrperformance.com

As for warranty that is up to your local dealer at this time.
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Old 02-08-2005, 10:49 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I am anxiously awaiting the test results. The price is more than I was hoping, but the quality looks good and that costs money. The results may sway me more. I am thinking about a 2006 Z06, so maybe a turbo would be cheaper. I don't think I will be driving above 160mph, the extra topend ogf the Z is of no concern. However, I really like acceleration, so if I can keep with them until about 150, I will be good.

I will likely wait a while to make a decision. I would like to see about reliability of the turbo kit and the tests results on the new Z06. That and time to save some money up for either. Oh and a closer shop to do the installation.


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Old 02-08-2005, 11:23 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 143hawaii
Do you have any pics of the new baffled aluminum pan? Have you had any success baffling the stock steel Toyota pan (and maybe tested it on the track with some R-compound tires)?
The stock modified pan we include in the kit is baffled and we have increased the capacity by just over 1 quart! The Aluminum upgrade is a brand new high performance, lightweight version of this pan and will be available shortly.
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Old 02-08-2005, 11:43 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Is the GT28R a better fit than the GT28RS or just less expensive? Is the stock tranny up for 275 HP? Is the HD clutch upgrade recommended for the stage 1? Will the install price include labor to replace clutch if done at same time?
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Old 02-08-2005, 11:51 AM   #31 (permalink)
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You are going to need a new clutch. The kit looks complete, but you can't get away without a new clutch. Period. Add 5 hours labor and the cost of a new clutch to the bill too.
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Old 02-08-2005, 01:46 PM   #32 (permalink)
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forcedfed,
why cant potential customers buy your kit outright? im in chicago and if i wanted your kit today, i would not only have to pay for the kit, & the install, but then i would also incur the additional costs of either driving to one of your affiliates, or shipping my car to and fro.....thats quite a financial burden not to mention the time.
u have mentioned in the past that you are looking for u.k. installers and i assume they are sight unseen, so how do u determine who are worthy installers in your eyes?

also, how did u like the act clutch, and how streetable is the clutch? is it an "on/off" clutch?
also, all things considered, how was traction and did u experience any wheel hop on your launches?
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Old 02-09-2005, 01:42 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Putting the Power to the Ground

Quote:
Originally Posted by abechen
I'm wondering how we will get 400HP to the ground with those little tires of ours. I had a hard enougth time putting all that power to the ground in my old Eclipse GSX AWD and not have it puff up into smoke on slicks.
I can guarantee that traction will be a problem with 400hp. My Esprit weighs 2600 lbs (lightened) and has 11 x 17 rear rims with 315/35 tires and runs a Quaife dog box. If you stab the throttle in second gear while cruising at 3500 rpm the car will get sideways at 70 mph as the boost jumps rapidly from 15 to 20 PSI. Forget full throttle acceleration in first gear. It may be impressive for doing burnouts and fun at the track but it's quite lacking for a driveable road car. I haven't tried competition tires like Hoosiers yet, but they would be good for about a week. A little too impractical, even for me. The car was a far better road car (and quicker in the twisties as well) when it made 330hp. Moderation can be a good thing.

I do run a GT30/71R turbo though. I had originally wanted a GT28/71 but got talked out of it. With Big HP I think you'll need different boost maps for each gear to make the car driveable.

My advice would be to stick to 300-320 hp and look for linear throttle response as opposed to the "big hit". Maybe you can brag about the HP numbers but when the tires go up in smoke you're not going anywhere.
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Old 02-09-2005, 02:33 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Have you considered changing the final drive ratio with different gearing in the differential? You changed everthing else, why not go the final step so that your gearing matches your engine power output?

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Old 02-09-2005, 04:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
Have you considered changing the final drive ratio with different gearing in the differential? You changed everthing else, why not go the final step so that your gearing matches your engine power output?

'Greg

We are looking at a taller final gear for a more relaxed cruising at freeway speeds, as well as a higher top speed potential on track.
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Old 02-09-2005, 04:15 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Adam P
Who is your dealer going to be in houston??

Also, can you post some real world video of the car in action. I would like some idea of performance of the kit. Thanks, Adam .....
We will be announcing our Houston rep next week. I am working on getting some in car video for you guys as well.
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Old 02-09-2005, 04:18 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean TT
You are going to need a new clutch. The kit looks complete, but you can't get away without a new clutch. Period. Add 5 hours labor and the cost of a new clutch to the bill too.

Actually unless you are driving the car hard and on the track there is no need for a clutch upgrade for the base kit. The stock clutch is very good and is capable of handling the increased torque of the base kit.
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Old 02-09-2005, 04:26 PM   #38 (permalink)
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where are your centers located? what states?
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Old 02-09-2005, 06:04 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
Have you considered changing the final drive ratio with different gearing in the differential? You changed everthing else, why not go the final step so that your gearing matches your engine power output?

'Greg
The Quaife is only available with one final drive ratio. The remaining ratios were cut to spec, with a taller 1st gear and 6th shorter than the original 5th. However, with a 8:1 CR motor that makes 150 HP off boost and 3 times that at full boost, it would stall and be impossible on hills if first were too tall. Also it's not it's not very practical on the street to have to launch at 5000 rpm lighting the tires to avoid bogging. So the gearing is a compromise. The gears are semi-helical instead of straight cut as well, futher limiting ratio options. I think gear boost makes the most sense (absent traction control) and Lotus UK agrees, but I haven't been spending enough time in the US to cobble a system together and test it yet.

My point was there's only so much power you can put to the ground. A less powerful, but more tractible car can be quicker on real roads and more enjoyable to drive. Keep in mind that the Elise doesn't have that large of a contact patch. More is not necessarily always better.
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:31 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forcedfed
We are looking at a taller final gear for a more relaxed cruising at freeway speeds, as well as a higher top speed potential on track.
I'm afraid that's not going to help you much when you (try to) put 400hp to the ground, no?

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