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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Helpful Tips for removing Stock Exhaust Manifold
I was trying to post this in the library but was denied access. So, if you Mods find this worthy, please move this to the Library section.
This might be helpful for those that plan to install header. 1) You do not need to remove Belt Tensioner 2) Nor, have to hacksaw the Air Injection tube off. I did not take pictures, Photos are courtesy of ET user "milcher" Stock Exhaust Manifold removal tips without the need of hacksaw or belt tensioner removal. 1) remove Cat, Exhaust Manifold upper and lower heatshields. 2) remove the 2 nuts and 3 bolts holding the Exhaust manifold. Also remove the one nut holding the Air injection tube from the rear right wheel well. 3) Remove the stud circled in RED below with a Torx socket. 4) Slide the exhaust manifold out until you have access to the Air Injection Tube Cap from the Rear Right Wheel well. 5) Use a plier to slide the clip free from the rubber hose cap circled in red below. You need to do this from the Rear Right wheel well. Remove the Hose Cap and Clip completely. 6) Now you can slowly work the whole Exhaust Manifold out of the engine bay from below. Trust me, it will come out at just the correct angle. Be patient. Good luck. Last edited by mlk_f1; 09-18-2006 at 12:12 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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User, Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 1,915
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Good tip, this looks like the best solution for getting the old manifold off.
__________________
Francis 2006 Chrome Orange Elise: LSD/TC, Nitron SAs with 425/650 springs, BWR 7/8" ("Hardcore") Front Bar, Eliseparts bumpsteer kit, VF Stage 2, 2bular Header + Sport Cat + 8x24 GT3 Muffler, ECU Tune by Jermaine, Smaay's fuel rail, ACT XT clutch, Saikou Michi dual catch can, Moroso pan, Manly's mount inserts & FF Engine Damper 2000 Black Integra Type R - DD: 223,000 miles! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 840
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Is there a reason to keep the cold air injection pipe once it's out? I'm considering doing this, but am thinking about cutting the cold air injection pipe off near the header and plugging it so it doesn't have to be snaked back beside the engine.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Mikey likes it!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winter Park, Fla
Posts: 1,305
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Thanks for posting this--just tried it (well--I'm taking a break before i torque the nuts and bolts). I removed both of the studs and the rest was just as you said.
A couple of comments, though... I didn't go in through the passenger wheel well because I'm using rhino-ramps. The air tube fasteners were fairly easy to reach from the bottom. But mostly, in step number 6, when you say 'patient', you should put that in bold, and underline it, and put it in caps, and underline it again! ![]() But it all worked out. Thanks again. -Michael '05 Nightfall Blue |
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#5 (permalink) |
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The Mad Scientist
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Leawood, KS
Posts: 2,698
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FYI: Sears has a seven piece external Torx socket set on sale today and tomorrow for $19.95:
It was also in yesterday's flyer in the local newspaper...
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d.a..v...i....d David Thomas Stewart - davidtstewart@gmail.com TVS Supercharged 2005 Graphite Grey Lotus Elise: 286whp, 1786lbs. Drop down a cog give it a handful come round about the roundabout |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 786
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Quote:
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