kswap parts list

[ageshelin]

I started with SunSpeed. Great kit, no complaints. They started with converting Rover-based cars in US, so they should be a good fit. By far, they have the best engineered mounts for street use.

I think, the main engineering piece of the kit is engine mounts, shifter linkage and wiring (to the dash). Everyhting else are just little details. The little details will cost you $$

Drive shafts are from driveshaftshop.com. Shipping to Australia would be a problem... Here they are about $1k. They may even know the length that you need. Otherwise, they make shafts to order.

If you can read an electrical diagram, get a K-pro and a swap harness, then you can do electrical. Hondata, now makes a dash (CAN bus) adapter!

If you can get a Honda RSX manual and figure out the cooling system, you can do the plumbing yourself. You can even run pretty stainless AN hoses...

Throttle linkage, intake, exhaust... and you are done! It is a fair amount of work...

This thread is full of details....

K-tuned is another good vendor for Honda swap parts, especially hard to find little pieces. Like aftermarket TPS, Water neck with AN or any other hoses, electric pump, etc.... I think, now they have their own swap harness, too.

Anton

Originally Posted by nuk1ear

Hmm, im trying to toss up which kit I should get for a K24 swap into an early S2. Wiring and fuel system i prefer to do myself.

So far my options are:
-Stark - Seems good quality, James is superquick to respond to emails. Prices are fair (5500AUD delivered to aus, plus import tax)

-Hondaelise - Useless with emails, like completely useless. I had to call to get any response, but they seemed helpful. Prices are very cheap for some reason.

-Sunspeed - There is a local reseller here in Sydney, kit quality by far appears to be best. Bonus of local support and no need to pay any import tax etc. Downside is it seems very expensive in comparison. Driveshafts are $1300aud alone, mounts 1200. Full kit excluding wiring/cooling gear/fuel gear is $6800aud.

Any tips from anyone else? Can the heater hoses/piping be made up easy enough? Hope this isnt a thread highjack!

[aztec1382]

Updates


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[nuk1ear]

Originally Posted by ageshelin

I started with SunSpeed. Great kit, no complaints. They started with converting Rover-based cars in US, so they should be a good fit..........

Thanks for the comments. Electrical wiring isnt the issue to me, and im trying to buy the last of the S2 rovers if i can find one (no CAN system used until toyota i believe). Im actually a wire harness engineer for toyota so im hoping ill be ok. I also built a new wireharness and megasquirt 3+msx for my old MR2, and a peak and hold injector driver (built). All went ok and was good fun haha.

i love the look of the engine bay man. Always a fan of OEM looking solutions. You have done exactly what i wish to do in the future!

[aztec1382]

Coolant and heater hoses are really straightforward
Check out the Ktuned site they have a few hoses ready for k swaps into almost any application
Swivel thermostat is a must and the water neck that goes on the head is a great piece if ur keeping the stock intake manifold


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[bbs350z]

you need the swivel thermostat??

oem rsx one wont do?

[Exiged]

Originally Posted by bbs350z

you need the swivel thermostat??

oem rsx one wont do?

It makes it easier but it's not really needed. You can use a small adaptor piece and just cut the the hose back a little bit.


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[aztec1382]

Stock works,
Ktuned just makes it easier


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[nuk1ear]

Hey man, not familiar with the toyota conversions to honda engines, but what did you do for the shifter cables (are they required, or just the shifter mechanism?)

[ageshelin]

My kit used Lotus shifter cables and standard shifter.

k-tuned has a very nice shifter, but for FWD. They can make custom cables, too. I was thinking of adapting that....

However, Quaife, just came out with a Honda sequential box.... it comes with a shifter and cable

Anton

Originally Posted by nuk1ear

Hey man, not familiar with the toyota conversions to honda engines, but what did you do for the shifter cables (are they required, or just the shifter mechanism?)

[aztec1382]

After a few small hiccups car is finally ready for driving


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[aztec1382]

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[shay2nak]

done with tuning already?

[aztec1382]

First session yes
Made 420 at 8k rpm tuned by kevin at whitfields Dyno
Going to swap out my 95mm pulley for the 105mm and rev it to 9k and see what numbers it produces.

The Rotrex power is very responsive and manageable, compared to the turbo set up. No sudden kick just constant pick up.


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[Exiged]

I bet you are smiling. with the linear power it makes the car very responsive and not too twitchy.


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[WhatsADSM]

Originally Posted by aztec1382

First session yes
Made 420 at 8k rpm tuned by kevin at whitfields Dyno
Going to swap out my 95mm pulley for the 105mm and rev it to 9k and see what numbers it produces.

The Rotrex power is very responsive and manageable, compared to the turbo set up. No sudden kick just constant pick up.


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Not bad 420 is a ton for this chassis and yea a nice supercharger is WORLDS more controllable . How are the intake temps holding up and what does the boost curve look like?

As for the k24 at 9k... I would strongly strongly suggest against that. Pistons speeds are extermely high with the k24 99mm stroke. The k24 is no b16 just remember that. 9k on a 24 really isn't a good idea unless u have very high dollar internals. What does this engine build consist of again?

IMHO I would go out and enjoy the thing where it sits. Get used to it and if you really feel u need more then explore your options.

[shay2nak]

420 @ 8k is not bad at all.

[aztec1382]

Yeah very controllable power, but do miss the sudden burst of power of turbo
This is on a stock 06 tsx motor.
Picked up another tsx block and going to do a full build on that with 11:1 compression




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[aztec1382]

I'll post the Dyno sheet later tonight
Intake temps are between 90 and 100
After driving around all day



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[Exiged]

Nice temps!


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[aztec1382]

Thanks, it's the bell heat exchanger and pwr intercooler, it should drop a bit once I get a sprayer on the heat exchanger


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