LETSLA Short Shifter Linkage

[ozracer]

Dragon thats the one can you interpret the japanses translation and where exactly it goes?

[RoadDad]

Originally Posted by ozracer

Dragon thats the one can you interpret the japanses translation and where exactly it goes?

Essentially it says because people were dissatisfied with the feeling of the shifter, JAE racing is following recommendations to strengthen the shift unit. Shift feeling improves because the rigidity of the entire shifter unit is increased with the addition of their equipment. It is possible to change the normal ambiguous feeling of the shifter to a "sporty" feel. There are Rover engine (pictured on the left) and Toyota engine (top picture) models.

They are for RHD cars only and they cost 12,600 Yen.

[Baysailor]

Originally Posted by ozracer

Dragon thats the one can you interpret the japanses translation and where exactly it goes?

Babel Fish Translation

Google Translation

[RoadDad]

Originally Posted by Baysailor

Babel Fish Translation

"Being the recommendation in the people of the shift feeling dissatisfaction of normal, strengthening shift unit of this JAE racing. Unit rigidity of the whole shift is raised by equipping this, shift feeling improves.
From just a little the ambiguous shift feeling of normal, [supotei] it is possible to shift feeling to change.
In addition to the one for popular low bar engine car (the photograph left), also the one for Toyota engine car (on photograph) release was done.

It is the right handwheel private part.
For low bar engine car and for Toyota engine car together
Price: 12,600 Yen (classified by payment)"

Originally Posted by Baysailor

Google Translation

"諸氏recommended that the feeling of your normal shift, the shift unit strengthened JAE Racing. The equipment, which increase the stiffness of the entire unit shift, improving the shift feel. Shift from a vague feeling of something normal, can be transformed into a sporty shifting feel. Rover cars for popular engine (left), as well as engines for Toyota cars (above) has been released.

Private cars are right-hand parts. Engines for Rover cars, cars with engines for Toyota Price: 12,600 yen (without wage)"


.

Wow. Those translations suck. Stick with the RoadDad.

[RichS]

Troy,

Will you be at LOG? Want to do a demo install of your V2 kit at LOG? I'll bring mine with me. You can show the Lotus folks too at the same time...

Rich

[Notorious L.R.G.]

Originally Posted by RichS

Troy,

Will you be at LOG? Want to do a demo install of your V2 kit at LOG? I'll bring mine with me. You can show the Lotus folks too at the same time...

Rich

I've thought about bringing mine, and begging someone with small hands to do the job at log, but HOW would we fit it in? during concourse?

[Elise 323]

Intallation is not going well. Cables appear much shorter than they should be.

Unfortunately the directions do not state the orientation of the angle-shim plate for the 2nd gen kit. Is the shim thick side up or thick side down? Does the 2nd generation kit mounting bracket need to be tiltled toward the front of the car or toward the rear?

Unrelated question, what are the purpose of the aluminum tubular cable shield protectors? They are under the rubber boots?

Any assiatance appreciated.

[ErictheBastard]

Originally Posted by Elise 323

Intallation is not going well. Cables appear much shorter than they should be.

Unfortunately the directions do not state the orientation of the angle-shim plate for the 2nd gen kit. Is the shim thick side up or thick side down? Does the 2nd generation kit mounting bracket need to be tiltled toward the front of the car or toward the rear?

Unrelated question, what are the purpose of the aluminum tubular cable shield protectors? They are under the rubber boots?

Any assiatance appreciated.

Shim is thick side down so it leans the bracket slightly forward. I don't understand the purpose of the sheath protectors either but I've learned not to second guess a successful design. As for your cables being too short, perhaps you've pushed them down into the sheath while re-installing the rubber bellows (hint: keep a bottle of STP oil treatment around as an assembly lube for rubber parts - worked like a charm in this case). Anyway the cable should pull back from the sheath relatively easy - the rubber bellows should all the way down on the sheath/protector.

Just finished mine an hour ago, so we're roughly on the same game plan for the day. Also, if you started the disassembly of the stock unit while in neutral, follow the instructions to the letter, you might be able to re-install the C clips and have a proper working unit without having to dig into the trans tunnel, which gave me fits. I actually gave up and got lucky.

I'm now thoroughly enjoying my clean 2-3 and 3-2 shifts! Troy, thanks for your innovativeness and engineering prowess!

[Elise 323]

Thanks Eric,

Took the system off for the 3rd time and during re-installation the fit was better. Possibly the combination of cable parts were not aligned properly. Thanks for the confirmation on shim orientation. The aluminum cable guards are confusing. The bellows are supposed to keep the rod clean to prevent wear. With the bellow all the way pushed down they will act as ineffective scraper seals. My plan is to take it apart and try one more time with a more conservative setting for the cross gate and gear levers.

[TroyLotus]

Sorry about the alum plate orientation. I need to mention the larger part goes down so it angles the bracket towards the LETSLA more to get the cables in line with it.

The stock rubber boots can be hard to pull on, but I use some windex and they slide on better and then say there. I pull them all the way up and this is to give enough clearance for the rod end so it does not bind up on excessive rubber boot at the bottom.

Elise 323
First try to loosen the base and let it self align when you shift a few times and then tighten if you have not done that. You can also try to adjust the crossgate rod end at the console side to make sure you get the sweet spot of shifting up there.

On LOG. I am not going. I really really want to go and it depresses me not to go. I would love to do a bunch of installs. I just can not drive in my car for 8-10 hours as of yet due to my back surgery. My back is going great so far. I went for my 5 week checkup and Xrays. Bone is already starting to form in the areas it should. I guess my vitamin and extra calcium plus oatmeal a few times a week helps. The doctor was very excited and proud of his work so that was very good sign. He said I still can not lift much or do all that want to yet so I need to still be smart. I do drive my car now for about 30 min to work a few times a week when it does not rain, but I am sure I could not do 10 hours of sitting like that for a few months. If I went I would want to do all the track time so that is a no no so far with all the jamming around the track. Next year is a go.

Troy

[tvacc]

I am truly happy with my new setup.

It is about the same effort and smoothness as before I put in the upgrade, but the shifts are much more positive.

I had the chance to drive one of my fellow LOONYs 2005 very early car. Was one of the first cars shipped to Hawaii. My friends son lived there when the Elise came out and now the car is in Buffalo.... It is black with red interior. Anyways...his action is so SMOOTH. You just slip into first..no pressure...no hesitation.

Mine has a slight bump...or you have to apply a bit of pressure to get into first.
Anyone one have any thoughts on why my friends black car is so much better than mine and he has the stock setup.

[HKFEVER]

Two days ago, my perfect adjusted LETSLA suddenly went into reverse when I tried to shift into 1st gear

So we open up the console and see what had happened, may be need more adjustment. We tried couple adjustment but no success. Instead we found in the attached picture " before " you will see after STAN mod the column is so stiff, that when you shift into 1st very fast, you will see the left hand side will bend and comes out a little bit (not perfectly straight because the metal is too weak). That little bit is just enough to cause the shifter goes into reverse. So we but washer between the black plastic and the shifter column, it help a little bit but the left side still comes out a little. And sometime will go in reverse.

So we put in 2 long bolts and a metal plate to stiff the left hand side up (see the " after " picture). It helps and no matter how hard we try to shift from natural to 1st, it won't go in to reverse.

But now the left hand side is so much tougher than before, I have trouble to fast down shift from 3rd to 2nd. I may need more adjust after this metal plate. Will see how is it go tomorrow.

May be the metal plate is bad idea. Any suggestion for the adjustment.

[lotusforsale]

Troy was nice enough today to install the 2nd gen upgrade in my car. I loved the feel of the shifter before, the feel now is incrementally (much) nicer, if that's possible. Long drive home, took some back roads so I could row up/down through the gears.

Thanks Troy, I continue to be very happy with the kit!

[slope]

Gents,

I just managed to install the shifter yesterday and without having done any adjustments it felt fine initially when I was going through the gears. It felt really good and engaged nicely, although it did require a little more effort to get 1st and 2nd to go when compared with the other gears. When I decided to take it out on the road I noticed that if I'm pulling a little too hard to the left on the shifter it is impossible to shift into first or second. When I ease up it will shift. This would be a big problem for me when downshifting from 3rd to second since I tend to use a decent amount of left pressure to make sure I'm going into 2nd and not 4th. Anyways will the adjustment on shifter cable address this or am I going to learn how to shift a little bit more gingerly?

Also for the life of me I couldn't tighen the rod end linkage to the L bracket using the 12 mm nut and washer all the way. I got it on finger tight but when I tried to use a wrench it would rotate the nut and the screw. As it stands the washer has some play in it as it is not secured against the nut. Anyways any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Chris

[lotusforsale]

Originally Posted by slope

Gents,

I just managed to install the shifter yesterday and without having done any adjustments it felt fine initially when I was going through the gears. It felt really good and engaged nicely, although it did require a little more effort to get 1st and 2nd to go when compared with the other gears. When I decided to take it out on the road I noticed that if I'm pulling a little too hard to the left on the shifter it is impossible to shift into first or second. When I ease up it will shift. This would be a big problem for me when downshifting from 3rd to second since I tend to use a decent amount of left pressure to make sure I'm going into 2nd and not 4th. Anyways will the adjustment on shifter cable address this or am I going to learn how to shift a little bit more gingerly?

Also for the life of me I couldn't tighen the rod end linkage to the L bracket using the 12 mm nut and washer all the way. I got it on finger tight but when I tried to use a wrench it would rotate the nut and the screw. As it stands the washer has some play in it as it is not secured against the nut. Anyways any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Chris

I cannot speak to your specific issues, but here is my view having watched Troy install the kit in my car 3 times (and nominally assisting) and watching it installed on Bull30's car.

This past weekend Troy put in the current upgrade kit. My shifter is smooth as silk, not only NOT more difficult to go into any gear, but actually easier and more positive engagement. For context mine are set for the second shortest throw for both cables. All downshifts are flawless, and now having shifted a couple hundred or so times with the upgrade kit installed, I am still noticing the difference in feel over the previous (and great) original kit.

Mine was the very first customer install (beating Baysailor by about 2 hours, I think). Right from the start it was clear that the kit required tweaking, and that in the install a lot of adjustment and tweaking is necessary. The binding that Baysailor and I experienced was immediately corrected with a fix that Baysailor I believe came up with and Troy incorporated in the design and for all but a very few initial kits shipped.

Have seen Troy do the installs, and again this past Sunday, I know that:
1) Following the directions closely is needed. Shortcutting creates problems. the directions continue to be refined as more people do installs and find oversights in the instructions, or better ways to describe or illustrate a step.
2) Take off the front console. I think many folks are trying to skip this step to avoid the headache involved. The first time removing and replacing the console is a PITA. It is the second and third time as well, but once you know what you're doing it can be done in just a few minutes. There are adjustments to the cables at the shifter that make this thing come together. On my first install, and again this past weekend, going into 5th didn't feel so sure, and indeed after first install it would pop out of 5th or I'd miss it altogether. A simple adjustment of the cable end at the shifter itself immediately took care of the problem, and what was a major concern instantly became a great feel and positive action.
3) Having a second set of hands, and eyes is helpful. As we were finishing my install this past weekend, all the difference was made with me in the car rowing through the gears while Troy looked in, seeing what was or wasn't operating as it should, and doing some adjustments.
4) Finally, if and when I take it out and put it back in myself, contrary to what Troy does (he's done this so often he literally can do it with his eyes closed) I would take the extra time to drop the bottom pan.

I think the kit was originally seen as an easy do-it-yourselfer. Like a lot of things, once you know what you're doing and how it all goes together, it IS a lot easier. But initial install requires patience, benefits from extra hands and eyes, benefits from an under-the-car examination of the stock setup so you know how it all works and goes together, completely following directions (this includes removing that front console to get to the cable ends at the shifter) and understanding that some tweaking is going to likely be necessary.

The end result, once you get it right, it a really, really nice mod and a shifter that, while maybe not a Boxster or s2000, is a true pleasure to use and a quantum leap over stock.

[HKFEVER]

Finally, we took out the whole thing again and double check it:
- We put in the 3rd washer in the step 14th, doesn't mean we need it to have clearance. But just put it in.
- After took off the shifter cable and cross gate cable, we found the cross gate cable was a little bend at the threads area, so we straight it up and put in extra nut to make it stronger at the threads area.
- Do the 5 turns and 2 turns with shifter and cross gate end.
- Open up the console and took off the metal plate.
- Re-adjust the shifter cable to original turns.
- Re-adjust the cross gate cable to original turns. But still can push the shifter ino reverse (by force).
- So we put back the metal plate to prevent the bending caused by force. After that things go very well.

The housing for the shifter column is a joke. The metal is so thin, if you have STAN mode and you push the shifter to the left you will see the metal bend outward.

Will drive it for couple weeks and see.

[slope]

Originally Posted by lotusforsale

I cannot speak to your specific issues, but here is my view having watched Troy install the kit in my car 3 times (and nominally assisting) and watching it installed on Bull30's car.

This past weekend Troy put in the current upgrade kit. My shifter is smooth as silk, not only NOT more difficult to go into any gear, but actually easier and more positive engagement. For context mine are set for the second shortest throw for both cables. All downshifts are flawless, and now having shifted a couple hundred or so times with the upgrade kit installed, I am still noticing the difference in feel over the previous (and great) original kit.

Mine was the very first customer install (beating Baysailor by about 2 hours, I think). Right from the start it was clear that the kit required tweaking, and that in the install a lot of adjustment and tweaking is necessary. The binding that Baysailor and I experienced was immediately corrected with a fix that Baysailor I believe came up with and Troy incorporated in the design and for all but a very few initial kits shipped.

Have seen Troy do the installs, and again this past Sunday, I know that:
1) Following the directions closely is needed. Shortcutting creates problems. the directions continue to be refined as more people do installs and find oversights in the instructions, or better ways to describe or illustrate a step.
2) Take off the front console. I think many folks are trying to skip this step to avoid the headache involved. The first time removing and replacing the console is a PITA. It is the second and third time as well, but once you know what you're doing it can be done in just a few minutes. There are adjustments to the cables at the shifter that make this thing come together. On my first install, and again this past weekend, going into 5th didn't feel so sure, and indeed after first install it would pop out of 5th or I'd miss it altogether. A simple adjustment of the cable end at the shifter itself immediately took care of the problem, and what was a major concern instantly became a great feel and positive action.
3) Having a second set of hands, and eyes is helpful. As we were finishing my install this past weekend, all the difference was made with me in the car rowing through the gears while Troy looked in, seeing what was or wasn't operating as it should, and doing some adjustments.
4) Finally, if and when I take it out and put it back in myself, contrary to what Troy does (he's done this so often he literally can do it with his eyes closed) I would take the extra time to drop the bottom pan.

I think the kit was originally seen as an easy do-it-yourselfer. Like a lot of things, once you know what you're doing and how it all goes together, it IS a lot easier. But initial install requires patience, benefits from extra hands and eyes, benefits from an under-the-car examination of the stock setup so you know how it all works and goes together, completely following directions (this includes removing that front console to get to the cable ends at the shifter) and understanding that some tweaking is going to likely be necessary.

The end result, once you get it right, it a really, really nice mod and a shifter that, while maybe not a Boxster or s2000, is a true pleasure to use and a quantum leap over stock.

Thanks for the encouragement. I'm not the most mechannically inclinde person so I knew this would take some time. I did end up taking the undertray along with the engine lid off and I'm sure glad I did considering how many times I ended up dropping things. Anyways I will try the shifter cable adjustment and see if I can manage to screw that pesky nut on any tighter.

[TroyLotus]

This should clear up the getting into reverse issue and also getting into 1st-2nd. It is the adjustment on the crossgate cable at the front of the car in the console. What happens is this. When stock the adjustment is set so when you push left on the shifter it moves the crossgate cable a certain amount to get into 1st or 2nd gear. If you pull up on the reverse knob you can go farther over pushing the cable farther and getting into reverse. What is happening when you install the LETSLA is you have to adjust the rod end at the console side. What you need to do is turn this in a few turns to get the correct cable length on the crossgate. The crossgate cable is the lower of the cables and the one that will move when you move the shifter left to right. You may need one more turn in or a couple. What I mean by turn it in is turning the rod end there to make the threads go further in the rod end so you are screwing in on further and making the cable a tiny bit shorter each time.

This is how I test to make sure it is just where it should be. I put it in 3rd gear and then try to downshift into 2nd gear. It should go right in. If you have to let up pressure on it and come back to the right a tiny bit to find 2nd gear the cable is to long and you need to screw in the rod end there another turn. You will find the perfect spot for the rod end and what I call the sweat spot. It should just go from 3rd to 2nd no problem.

Now if you can not go into 1st-2nd gear without pulling up on the reverse knob a little bit to find it then you have screwed the crossgate rod end in to much. You will know. When you have it right it will right into 1st-2nd gear and not go into reverse. This should solve the problems that you are having and a good tip for anyone else doing the install.

Troy

Another tip figured out is that you do not have to take the console all the way off to adjust. What I do is take off the two tor bolts that hold it on and also disconnect the hazard switch. Then I can lift the console up enough to get to the crossgate rod end and use my 10mm open end wrench to adjust it. It is tight, but might be easier than taking the console all the way off.

[slope]

Just wanted to say thanks for the quick and very helpful responses. The shifter feels awesome!

[jmmorford]

Originally Posted by jmmorford

I put the 2nd generation kit into my 2006 Elise Sunday. The instructions are quite good, but I offer a couple of suggestions for others:

--Absolutely take the engine panel off the underside before you start. It is pretty much impossible not to drop something during the install that you won't be able to fish out.
--The little plastic rectangle on the end of the cross gate lever just drops off the moment you free the mounting bolts (see first comment). I never could get my hand into position to put it back on from above. From underneath, however, it's a piece of pie. From there you can easily see the counterweight and most of the rest of the assembly, with no hoses ubstructing access. I kept a floor jack by the driver's side and quickly lifted it when I wanted to look under.
--The cable end settings Troy recommended were quite short for my car. I backed out the cable ends the recommended number of turns (2d generation) at the transmission end, but that was way off. I had to let out a bunch of cable up front to compensate, and I was not happy with the amount of thread left at the front. I'll go back in next weekend and back a couple more turns out at the transmission end.

The entire process took me about 3 or 4 hours (including a test drive and return for more cabel adjustment). I'm a reasonably competent DIY mechanic with a good tool set. The guys on this post who claim to have done it all in 90 minutes either have tiny, nimble hands that can work much better in tight places or they are not counting the time necessary to do the preparatory tasks such as removing and reinstalling the console, the engine cover and the undertray--combined, those tasks probably take at least an hour.

The result is a substantial improvement in shifting. Most of the slop is gone, and the throw is much shorter (I used Troy's recommended settings). I am still disappointed, however, in several aspects of the shifting compared to my MR Spyder (in order of most disappointment): force necessary to move the shifter, clunky noise, lack of true precision. This is still not a finger tip shifter.

Troy, thanks for a great upgrade and for your commitment to quality.

OK, I'm a little dense. After making the above post, I realized that I put in the little wedge thing upside down on the cable guide. Not the first wedgie of my DIY mechanic experience!

Now that I have flipped it over, the shifting is much smoother and easier. Still, it is not a classic finger tip shifter and it does not have quite the snick-snack of the modified linkage in my MR Spyder, but its pretty good.

The linkage still has some rather loud clunking noise on some shifts (which iit has had since new, and the dealer says is completely normal). The noise emanates from the console. I have not been able to isolate it, but it appears to be play in the shift arm mounts. I'm looking forward to more refinements from Troy.