LETSLA Short Shifter Linkage

[Chococar]

[Baysailor]

Originally Posted by Phil S

Personally I think Troy has nailed this one. Rod end bearing will smooth things out. I have built several airplanes and always use quality rod end bearings on the controls. The ease of movement and crispness of actuation is dramatically increased. The ability to shorten the shifter is bonus.

Count me in for the first one.

+1 - I have installed several short shift kits on other cars in the past. To date, these have been just the basic shortened/adjustable shift lever replacements on the transmission side that utilized the OEM pivot bushings and OEM shift cable endlinks. The sealed cartridge bearings and the spherical rod end bearings sealed the deal for me. I am excited about the apparent quality and attention to detail this kit seems to offer. I have already sent my payment!

[HKFEVER]

I have a RHD S240, please count me in. Once you have the production, please let me know and I will install it and try it in RHD S240.

[Max Smith]

+1 Paypal sent. Anything that might help my woeful downshifts from 3rd to 2nd shifts is most welcome !

[dma550]

This seems interesting, but "1 hour if you take your time" seems very optimistic, maybe Troy can comment.

From reading the instructions, I see that adjustment of the rod ends to get the car to shift properly was a step. From my experience (with a Brandwood cable shifter on a porsche 901 trans) this can take all day to get right, and is hardly an easy process. When you get the 1st-2nd plane working the other planes fail, and each adjustment is just a compromise between each of the shift planes. Maybe with a Toyota trans this is different, but I still have scars on my wrists from doing the adjustments!

[Phil S]

Originally Posted by dma550

This seems interesting, but "1 hour if you take your time" seems very optimistic, maybe Troy can comment.

From reading the instructions, I see that adjustment of the rod ends to get the car to shift properly was a step. From my experience (with a Brandwood cable shifter on a porsche 901 trans) this can take all day to get right, and is hardly an easy process. When you get the 1st-2nd plane working the other planes fail, and each adjustment is just a compromise between each of the shift planes. Maybe with a Toyota trans this is different, but I still have scars on my wrists from doing the adjustments!

What is the old saying "no pain no gain".

It has been my experience that the cheap bandaid fixes are just that. If it takes a little effort to get proper shifting with out a doubt it will be worth it.

By the description and "posted" instructions it does not appear to be difficult but indeed more than five minutes.

As for the cost. Indeed I would like to see it less (would say that about anything) but you do get what you pay for.

The CNC machined parts, rod ends and bearings are not inexpensive to R&D and then produce but counting on this to provide the precision of shifting the lotus deserves.

I am able bodied enough to shift the stock shifter but looking to have the mechanism operate like a Swiss Watch.

Come on........start shipping PLEASE!!!!!

[snoozer]

Just sent Paypal. Looks like a great solution to the vague shift feeling.

[TroyLotus]

DMA550. I can see where that could be a problem if you are changing the angles and the pivot points, but the LETSLA uses the stock pivot points and the advantage is after that point so the pivot points are identical to stock. This makes it a bolt on replacement without any modifications at all! This also makes it very easy to change when installed if you want to have more or less throw. All you need to do is use an allen wrench and then it is done. Also the Porsche 901 trans levers and linkage system are way different than the Toyota trans. I built a Factory Five Racing Cobra kit car in the past and was looking at getting the FFT GTM, but cost was to high. It had the Porsche transaxle with the linkage assembly from front to back and at the back can be complicated. On the time frame I have installed it myself in less than 10 minutes, but I have done it a few times now so when I said an hour I was being conservative for someone with just basic tools and skills. There are no mods to be done when installing except unbolting it and bolting the new one on.

BTW- I can understand the scars as I still have many from my old MR2 from dropping the motor in and out so many times. It was always great to have that nice grease gash with the blood and grease mix with the afterthought of having to clean it out and the pain.

This seems interesting, but "1 hour if you take your time" seems very optimistic, maybe Troy can comment.

From reading the instructions, I see that adjustment of the rod ends to get the car to shift properly was a step. From my experience (with a Brandwood cable shifter on a porsche 901 trans) this can take all day to get right, and is hardly an easy process. When you get the 1st-2nd plane working the other planes fail, and each adjustment is just a compromise between each of the shift planes. Maybe with a Toyota trans this is different, but I still have scars on my wrists from doing the adjustments!

[Stale_Hotdog]

subscribed

[HKFEVER]

I have few questions:
- What material is the LETSLA made of? Wil it oxidize?
- Can you Anodize it?
- How do we servie the rod end bearing?
- What is the the " Small Plastic Cover " on the end of the crossgate level for?
- How to adjust the throw distance? By the crossgate cable or by the shift cable or both?
- Increase the throw distance by moving them to the end of the bracket, right?

I am not good at mod, so have more question that others

[TroyLotus]

1-It is made out of 6061 Alum, debured and brushed. Oxidizing is not an issue for function as it will look like the transmission color in a few months. Since it is not seen I did not want to go out and get it polished or coated to add cost to all of you, yet it sure would look better in pictures.
2-I looked into Anodizing, but since it is hidden and made out of alum I did not see the need. I did not want to add cost to it also.
3-The rod end bearings do not need service. They are sealed, pre lubricated and have teflon inserts.
4-The small plastic lever is the stock part. On the end of the crossgate is where it fits into the transmission side. The trans side is slotted and needs to be able to move in there so Lotus used a hard plastic piece to ride in there. They did this so it is on metal on metal slides and wearing out parts over time. You can see on the diagram/drawing where it fits in. It is kindoff hidden in the picture, but you can get the idea. http://www.trueleo.com/linkagestock01.jpg
5-To change the throw you would just adjust where the rod end bearing attaches to the crossgate for 2nd-3rd, 4th-5th . You would change the location of the rod end bearing on the shift bellcrank lever to change the throw for 1st-2nd, 3rd-4th, 5th-6th. So you move the rod end bearing closer to the pivot point to increase the mechanical advantage and shorter then throw.
6-This mod does not cut, drill or do anything that would harm the car and is just a bolt on mod with regular tools. I made sure when I designed it that it would do that. I personally do not want to modifiy my car in a way that I can not bring it back if I ever need to sell it so I thought others would think the same way.

I have few questions:
- What material is the LETSLA made of? Wil it oxidize?
- Can you Anodize it?
- How do we servie the rod end bearing?
- What is the the " Small Plastic Cover " on the end of the crossgate level for?
- How to adjust the throw distance? By the crossgate cable or by the shift cable or both? 
- Increase the throw distance by moving them to the end of the bracket, right? 

I am not good at mod, so have more question that others

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How much for shipping to the uk?

[Dragon]

Could you look in to what the additional cost would be to anodize them as an option. My car sits outside and is bathed in rain all the time. I would like the added protection. Preferably in gold as they can also be seen on my car.

[luxige]

Small parts are pretty easy to anodize at home. I haven't tried it myself, however; here is the method a friend uses...
Anodizing at Home
(One point the link does not address is that you can skip the color process for clear anodizing. Just go straight from electrolysis to boiling the part to seal the hydroxide layer).

[TroyLotus]

I looked and found a place that is about an hour from me that does it. I will call them tomorrow when they are open to see how much it will cost and let you all know. What colors? Gold? Blue? Red?

Could you look in to what the additional cost would be to anodize them as an option. My car sits outside and is bathed in rain all the time. I would like the added protection. Preferably in gold as they can also be seen on my car.

Shipping to the UK is only $40. I already have one order for the UK and Australia. That was also $40. It is not that bad when shipping a 2-3lb box.

How much for shipping to the uk?

[TroyLotus]

I received a batch of parts today and assembled them. I will ship out a few tomorrow (you know who you are already) and then I have to wait on the one spacer next week.

[HKFEVER]

How much it will cost to ship it to Hong Kong by Fedex or UPS?

[TroyLotus]

I ship via USPS overseas and hong Kong is also $40.

[HKFEVER]

Originally Posted by TroyLotus

I ship via USPS overseas and hong Kong is also $40.

PM sent.

[plastique999]

I would like to get some feedback on how this kit handles and holds up on those that track the car regularly...