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LETSLA Short Shifter Linkage

139K views 610 replies 128 participants last post by  dipan 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello. I am introducing the LETSLA. Lotus Elise/Exige Transmission Shifter Linkage Assembly. After months of design and redesign I have the final version in my own car and it works great. It makes the car feel and shift the way it always should have. It will be available to ship in about two-four weeks, but if you want to purchase now to get on the list of one of the first ones to get it you can. I am just waiting on the final batch of a single production part to be run and shipped to me. The pictures do not do it justice as I do not have a high end camera that can take close up pictures. When you see it you will see how it looks like a work for art made for the Lotus.
Trueleo LETSLA

Here is the basic information from the site.
When I first drove the Elise I could not believe how amazing the car was and felt, yet there was one portion that just did not fit in a car of this caliber, the shifting. The stock shifter has so much play and such long throws it feels like we are driving a truck and I found this to be totally unacceptable. I have driven many mid engine cars in the past and the stock Elise has the worst shifter feel and throw by far. We have redesigned the entire linkage assembly in Solidworks at the transmission side. This will replace the linkage assembly at the transmission with an adjustable assembly with 4 sealed cartridge bearings and 4 rod end bearings instead of bushings. It will also have adjustments so the end user can pick how much throw they would desire. This will allow for a much shorter and faster shifting throw with less play for more accurate and direct shifting. The linkage assembly also weights about 1lb and the stock unit is about 3-4lbs. Installation instructions here.

Note- I have the final production model in my own car and the shifting and feel is so much better than I could have even hoped for when designing the assembly. It transforms the driving experience from fumbling with the long throws and bad shifting to a precise and crisp action that just feels perfect in a car of this caliber. We will have detailed installation instructions up soon, but the initial installation was very simple and no special tools are required. Installation should only take about an hour if you are taking your time. Contact us if you have any further questions Troy@Trueleo.com
 
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#254 ·
Notorious L.R.G. --eek- I did label that with R instead of C. I have fixed it. Thanks for reading the instructions in that much detail.
HTML:
I stared and stared at the instructions, and have decided that in the first photo, what are labeled as "R" clips, are actually the "C" clips, correct?
 
#256 ·
I wouldn't mind having a couple of these heim joint boots to put on the 2 heim joints that come with the kit since I park outside in the rain. If any one can source them please let me know.

On another note, I just showed the shift kit to my Japanese friend with an Exige (only other one on the island) and he loves it, so I'm ordering another one for him. I hope you have enough of them in stock.. :D
 
#259 · (Edited)
I wouldn't mind having a couple of these heim joint boots to put on the 2 heim joints that come with the kit since I park outside in the rain. If any one can source them please let me know.
+1!
I bet McMaster-Carr Supply Co will have it. hmmm....
 
#260 ·
Put mine in today @ TurboPhil's place... took about 60 minutes.

I'll report back in a couple days when I actually get to drive the car (she's in pieces right now) - but shifting feels a lot more precise.

BTW, total weight savings of all components is 0.725 lbs.

Just an FYI... stay tuned!
 
#261 ·
I have a 2005 Elise that I just got. During my first 100 miles today it all the sudden wouldn't shift in to 3rd without massive crunch and grinding. When it would successfully shift in to 3rd, the gears sounded fine. It was only trying to get it IN gear that I would get intermittent protest. Any ideas?
 
#262 ·
Check to see how much play there is with clutch pedal to the floor until it starts to engage. If it starts to grab immediately upon lifting from the floor you may need to bleed the system or adjust the clutch pedal. This is of course assuming your were using the clutch during that shift and lifted off the gas.. rotfl
 
#263 ·
Troy, What the ETA after order date? I'm making notes of all the parts I ordered over the past 3 days...just want to have an expected date.:D

Trying to make sure I don't forget what all I ordered.:confused:I'm quite forgetful!
 
#267 ·
mrcarcrazy- The ETA is this week. I shipped out 15 orders today via USPS so those should be there by Friday. I really have been swamped with orders and had my CNC guy send me a partial shipment to get the 15 orders out this week. I am getting the rest of the production shipment this week as it is in transit now. I have the rest of the items and will assemble them, box them all up and ship them out I hope by Friday. That is the remaining orders I have out right now and that should catch me up. I have also already ordered another batch since I am getting close be being out of stock by the way things are going. It will take a few weeks to get all the parts done on the new batch and I want to be ahead when possible. I need to when using all the manufactures I use to keep the cost down for all. I want to have them in stock, all assembled and boxed up ready for shipment the same day when the orders come in, I just had a lot more orders faster than I thought and I am glad for that, I am just a little behind on waiting for parts.

On the difference between the kits are just the sheath protector size. The 07-08 models have sheaths that are slightly larger in diameter. Everything else is the same.

On the price point I am trying to do my best at keeping the cost the same at $250 per kit. I did add some parts to the kit after I did pricing, such as the cable bracket and sheath protectors that added to my cost. I also had one manufacture raise the price due to the time it takes to machine. They kept the original price for the first batch and honored that, but the new batch is more. I have stayed with them because I liked the quality of the work and think it is worth it. The only way to keep the costs per kit lower was to order in larger volumes from the manufactures and I have done that for this next batch. The only way to keep the cost the same on the final product is to sell in more volume to make up for the extra costs otherwise I will not have enough orders projected to manufacture the parts in large enough quantities to pass along the savings. I just want you all to know where I am coming from the pricing and I am doing what I can to pass it along.
 
#270 ·
+1. if the results are as impressive as everyone says...the market will bear a higher price.

Thanks for the info on shipping. I'm just so ridiculously excited for this.

I was making a list (out of my paypal acct) of all the stuff I ordered this week, then backtracking to find out when its expected to arrive. so I don't forget. Now just to find out when my HID's will arrive.

Thanks again
 
#272 · (Edited by Moderator)
Mine arrived this week, what a work of art. I shal put it in prbably when I fit the VF BWR conversion (can't wait) !!!!!
 
#271 ·
Well.... I think you should stop making these kits, so we, who already have a kit, can brag about it or sell them for $500+ Muwhahahaha:D
 
#277 ·
Ordered and some shipped to all these places so far and counting
USA
Canada
Australia
United Kingdom
Netherlands
Hong Kong
Worcester
APO's all over

On the price I am doing what I can to keep it at $250. As long as volume stays high I can keep the price.

On a side note and I am getting very close to selling out of the first batch here. Once sold out it will take a couple of weeks to get the next batch in for shipment. I have a lot of the hardware and will be waiting on the complex parts to be done on the CNC. I should have all current outstanding orders shipped by Friday or Monday.
 
#278 ·
We all owe you a massive thanks for addressing one of the first, most notable deficiencies noticed by many when driving an Elise/Exige. sloppy shifter. :bow:
 
#282 ·
**Newbie alert....The following question may contain material, which would obviously be considered developmentally delayed. If reading these types of comments/statements cause you to monkey punch yourself, please do not read any further**



*Warning.....this is your last chance to bail out of this question*

What's the problem with the seat rail?
 
#283 ·
Sorry, I should point out this in other threat, but as you ask for what is the next fix.

Then I want to complain about the seat rail has the following problems::wallbang:
- little play when new, then getting bigger and bigger http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f157/2-questions-about-driver-seat-61985/
- Steel to Aluminum contact noise, no matter how you tie up the bolts on the seat rail, the steel to aluminum contact noise just won't go away especially when you step on the clutch :wallbang:. I am trying to find some nylon washers to place between the steel rail and the alumnium body.
 
#284 ·
Ok here's my mini-review for now... more to come later!

Overall feel is at least 10x better than stock. Feels amazing.

It's deceptive that you THINK that you have to push/pull the lever farther than you really have to. When running stock you have neutral, a no-man's land area and then a space of about an inch forwards and backwards where the gear sits in. Now the grey area and the operative area are much smaller.

I left the "as shipped" setting for the forwards/backwards motion but was not happy with the "too short" feel of the "as shipped" left-right motion so it was set to the next hole for more lateral movement. It's perfect now.

The only caveat (and it has nothing to do with the LETSLA) is that I couldn't engage 3rd this evening when I took the car home from TurboPhil's (TVS installation - more to come on that in the morning ;) ). 3rd previously would just give a quick "grind/chirp" but would still engage - now it's all gharrrrrraaharrhhaaarrrr metal on metal. I think I'll try to reposition my forwards/backwards movement at the actual shifter to try to get more forward movement out of it. If if then it's C60 time for me (I want the taller 6th anyway).

A solid 10/10 for a mod. This is the way the shifter should have been from the factory.
 
#286 ·
I am going to order anywhere from 2 to 4 pretty soon....
 
#287 ·
Here is a quick message on the possible problem with 3rd gear install. I had the sheath protectors initial design with a 1.5" depth inner diameter to slide over the sheath protector and sent out for quote with that. After testing I found that it needed to be 1.75" minimum. I wanted to extend the sheath protector as far as I could to help with protection as much as possible. When it was manufactured they did not look at my updated drawings and ran them with 1.5". So the sheath protector with the smaller inside may stop the car from going in 3rd gear because it extends to far on some cars. I have already corrected the problem with the latest orders shipped and I have received more sheath protectors with the correct size. I sent them out to all that have had ordered so far and you should have them soon. This has only happened on two cars so far, but better to send out all new sheath protectors for the bellcrank lever. If you do have that issue you can just take off the sheath protector you have until you get the new one.
Troy
 
#291 · (Edited by Moderator)
Dragon-
That is a really easy way to do it. Out of the 50 kits I have sold and sent only two people had this issue and you were one. I had all new ones made that were deeper as they were supposed to be and sent them out to everyone. You should received them anytime now. I did not think anyone else had the issue and if 3rd gear works then it does. I did know that if you do not turn the rod end bearing all the way in and then out 5 turns you would not have enough Clarence so if that is the problem make sure you followed that step first. If you do not want to wait you can simply take a 7/16" drill (1/2" if you have an 07-08) and drill it about 1/4-1/2" deeper. I just sent out all new ones as I did not know who would have that size drill bit, a drill or a vice to hold the part. Better to be safe then sorry.
I just grabbed a drill bit that fit perfectly and drilled it a 1/4" deeper and put it back on, problem solved and it only took 5 mins... No worries and a very simple fix, especially for something that came for free and wasn't originally in the kit in the first place. It also helps if you don't screw the heim joint on too far
 
#292 ·
Great product and great customer service - thanks Troy! Look forward to receiving the revised sleeves shortly.
Does the Letsla need any lubrication? Also, should I be using some lubricant/grease on the cables?:shift:
 
#293 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks and the LETSLA comes with all sealed pre lubricated bearings so it is not needed. You also do not need to lubricate the cable.
Does the Letsla need any lubrication? Also, should I be using some lubricant/grease on the cables?
 
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