'Official BWR SC Install Thread'

[Scott Bowman]

My ECU made it back from PES this morning and my mechanic got it installed this afternoon. My install was a clam off installation by a master technician who is not familiar with the Elise. He was extremely impressed by the detailed instructions/photos that came with the kit. He got enough of it put together that I was able to take a quick test drive before quitting time and I was very happy with the initial results; I'll have the "after" dyno done next week once I get a chance to put a few miles on the car.

Regarding the ECU turnaround time, I shipped mine out last Friday to PES and it arrived there at 9:00 a.m. Tuesday. They shipped out the reflashed ECU sometime yesterday (Thursday) via overnight and it arrived this morning at 10:30 a.m. For some reason, I expected that PES would be able to accomplish the reflash and ship it out the same day, but I'm sure they are dealing with a lot of volume from the group buy hitting all at once. Thumbs up to Fred and BWR for a nicely engineered kit!

[ryoung99]

Originally Posted by charliex

which should happen 4500 - 5800 rpm give or take.

That is exactly where it seems to occur. I will put some miles on the car this weekend (tonight and tomorrow morning) and see. If it does not go away I will go get some racing fuel and see if that makes a difference.

Thanks

[K2S]

Can someone help me, I'm stuck at step 82. Can't find where this is. I think it's next to the throttle body, but I'm not 100% sure. That was the only thing i could find that looked like that.

Thanks

[rstutts]

That is where I'm at now. Nothing broke yet!
I have a question, are there better air filters out there that I will simply fit in the air filter box? The one that I took out looks cheap. If so, will they affect the s/c? How about the ECU?
Rick

[Randy Chase]

Look at the Green Filter as a simple drop in. Should not be a problem.

[fzust]

The points that CharlieX makes are all excellent, thanks CharlieX!

Additionally, we've done extensive testing and I want to point out something we've discovered. It is CRITICAL that anyone installing ANY supercharger kit inspect & test and/or replace their mass-air sensor element. We've seen that the mass air sensor element can get very dirty(remember in the lotus much dirtier air hits the intake than a car with a front intake.) and this dirt will cause the mass-air sensor to read low(Its a fairly linear change). Aftermarket intakes, higher mileage cars, and cars operated in dustier or dirtier conditions are even more prone to this.
This will cause the ECU to think more air is entering the engine than reality you will have a potentially dangerous lean condition!

You can test the mass-air sensor with a scan tool by having someone monitoring the mass-air sensor while you drive WOT in second gear. You should see 225-230grams/sec at above 8200rpms. If you see much less than this you should replace your mass-air sensor element. These new mass-air elements may not survive harsh chemical cleaning and should just be replaced.

[thegoat]

Originally Posted by charliex

its already gone

[MightyMike]

Supercharger installed. Engine fired right up and runs very smoothly. CEL is on but figure it will go out after I drive it for a while. Double checked all connections and everything is secure. No peculiar sounds or leakage.

I haven't driven my Elise hard yet, but on my test drives, it pulled very well under light acceleration.

Is it safe to assume that the CEL light will eventually go out if everything is in place?

[charliex]

if its a flashing light, don't ignore it find out what it is, if its steady its an emissions warning and it'll go away if the problem has been fixed, i send out my 06s usually with a setting that resets the ecu back to factory for when you first start it, this helps the adaption set quicker, this causes a steady light for the first few starts, but it goes away.

if its a really bad problem the engine will limit to 6000 RPM.


usually its the cat, gas cap, 06's onwards, the ecu being reset.

With the bad MAF's it also helps if you can datalog it , the elm scanners that go to laptops can do it, most of hte cheapo hand helds don't though. A working MAF will have a nice bell curve, a bad maf is jumpy and it causes the car to hop a bit, this is because its looking in the wrong spot for fuel/spark while its accelerating, AF's will hop around rather than go from a linear 14.6, 13.5, 13.1, 12.5 , 12.1 at WOT (depending where its set)

The K&N intake kit works well and closely matches the stock box.

[MightyMike]

Thanks Charlie - steady light - appreciate your reply.

I do plan to pickup a Zeitronics ZT-2 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Meter and data logging setup in the near future.

Mike

[ryoung99]

Mike,

Mine was on as well, went off after the third time I shut the engine off.

The detonation has gotten better as I drove tonight. Tomorrow I am going to change the mass air sensor element (provided I can find one) just to make sure.

Does anyone have the part number for the mass air sensor element? Is it a Toyota part?

Same with the air filter, is it a Toyota part?

Thanks

[Jean]

MAF sensor.Toyota part no : 22204-22010 changed for new part no: 22204-0D030
Air filter. Toyota part no:17801-0D020

[chotto]

I'm thinking that I am going to do a clam off install so that I can remove the air conditioner unit at this time. Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? What size belt would I then need to go with?

[rstutts]

Got just got my alternator moved. I believe I am going to take a beer break.

[ryoung99]

Rick,

It is all downhill from there. Congratulations!

See and you did not think you could do the install.

Rick

[rstutts]

I got the s/c attached last night. I think the biggest problem I am having is the wiring. The new extention wiring for the alternator seems to be a little short. It reaches but there is not a whole lot excess length. I am heading back out there to do another 15 - 20 numbers!

[jallingt]

+1 re: MAF. Make sure it is clean.
Also, the alternator goes in much easier when you make sure you have pushed the bushings in the front cover totally flush and removed the paint on the ends of the alt bracket where it meets the bushings and alternator. It is only a few thousands of an inch but makes a HUGH difference.
Have fun!

[sleepe]

Originally Posted by ryoung99

Thanks Jim, we will do it with the clam on then, I also have a factory harness bar thus do not want to deal with that mess. In addition we have a lift at the house so that should help as well.

Rick

Where does the oem harness bar attach to the roll over bar?
I've seen a vacant hole in the roll bar situated below the oem 3-point seat belt hole.
-Robert

[rstutts]

I am done! Now I'm just waiting on the ECU. I sent it off Friday, and with Monday being a holiday, I assume it will get there Tuesday. Hopefully I will get it by Friday.
Installing this s/c was not near as hard as I figured it would be. Doing it with the clam off helped, although it was definitely more time consuming.
I'm going to keep my fingers crossed when I hit that start button.
Rick

[Phantom]

I've officially begun installation - No turning back now-

I noticed a baseball-size hole in the box, and I want to be sure I have everything:

SC
small carboard box
installation instructions

Is that right?