'Official BWR SC Install Thread'

[fzust]

Ok, it has been suggested that I setup this thread for folks to share ideas, post questions etc. etc. Please keep it constructive, no flames please. The instructions are pretty thorough. I highly recommend taking a laptop into the shop/garage and use that for the pics. Each pic is numbered and corresponds to a step in the instructions. Pretty easy.

[mpsalm]

I did a BWR install on an 06' Exige. I know the instructions are on an Elise so if you have any Exige specific questions let me know. Remember to disconnect the remote trunk release before you try and pull the clam off for instance.

That being said the install photos and instructions are awesome! Fred also answered any of my questions directly and promptly.

Good luck new BWR owners!

[thegoat]

How long does it take to remove the rear clam on the exige, and would you remove it again if you were doing the install again?

Also, are there any fitment issues when replacing it? I am afraid that I will create a new squeak after removing and replacing the clam because it not would be perfectly aligned to factory specs or something like that (yes, this is a question that comes from never having removed a rear clam).

fzust, thanks for setting up this thread.

[kestrel74]

Insert Tab A into Slot B..............then turn to page 2.

[fzust]

Originally Posted by thegoat

How long does it take to remove the rear clam on the exige, and would you remove it again if you were doing the install again?

Also, are there any fitment issues when replacing it? I am afraid that I will create a new squeak after removing and replacing the clam because it not would be perfectly aligned to factory specs or something like that (yes, this is a question that comes from never having removed a rear clam).

fzust, thanks for setting up this thread.

Ultimately the rear clam sits on shims in the back that are taped in place. It is pretty straightforward to re-align. I think on an exige, your life will be alot easier to install with clam removed.

[mpsalm]

Originally Posted by thegoat

How long does it take to remove the rear clam on the exige, and would you remove it again if you were doing the install again?

Also, are there any fitment issues when replacing it? I am afraid that I will create a new squeak after removing and replacing the clam because it not would be perfectly aligned to factory specs or something like that (yes, this is a question that comes from never having removed a rear clam).

fzust, thanks for setting up this thread.

Yeah I would def remove it again. It would be much faster the 2nd time. It's not very hard, a little time consuming. But you should be able to get it off in a few hours. Super easy to realign once removed. It sort of only goes on in one place... No new squeaks from the car and a few old ones are gone now. Hope that helps!

Good Luck!

[jim-clayton]

Get yourself a set of this handy tools.

[brokenboy]

If you get those ratchets, make sure you get the ones with the few degrees of bend on the end, and a switch for the direction. I have a cheapo set from Costco that are totally straight and you flip over to switch directions. They suck. Luckily, those are only my English wrenches. My metrics are like the ones pictured and they are incredible.

[brokenboy]

So what about clam removal on the Elise? I know it can be done either way, and I'm not afraid of removing the clam, but does it save enough time to be worth it?

[Bavarian Motorist]

Debating on whether or not to remove the clam on my Elise... My hands aren't very slimy, but my buddy's are.

I'm a total mechanical novice.

[Overlander23]

Remove the clam if you're curious and/or have never done it before. It's completely unnecessary for the SC intall, though. Having done both, removed the clam (separate issue) and installed the SC with the clam on, I'd do it again with the clam on... err, again. But having removed the clam, for something, else gave me greater appreciation for the car.

Originally Posted by Bavarian Motorist

Debating on whether or not to remove the clam on my Elise... My hands aren't very slimy, but my buddy's are.

I'm a total mechanical novice.

[jim-clayton]

Originally Posted by Overlander23

Remove the clam if you're curious and/or have never done it before. It's completely unnecessary for the SC intall, though. Having done both, removed the clam (separate issue) and installed the SC with the clam on, I'd do it again with the clam on... err, again. But having removed the clam, for something, else gave me greater appreciation for the car.

well said +1

[stinkyonion]

So overlander23, what was the cause of your check engine light ? I couldnt find the resolution of your issue in the other thread.

[stinkyonion]

Why does everyone remove the diffuser plate with the car on ramps instead of jackstands? (never done it yet)

So the recommended tools for the install are metric wrench and socket sets, pneumatic wrench for loosening, torque wrenches, jack stands, jack, ramps, metric thread chasers for alternator install., protective cloth for clam, and a creeper ?

Then for the Moroso oil pan (also special discount right now on lotustalk $485 delivered) I just need some form of gasket goo like Hondabond and everything for a oil change (6 quarts synthetic 5w40, filter, oil plug gasket, teflon tape).

No other projects to be done at same time I take it. ( I really want a new intake and increased flow exhaust but it messes up the ecu program as I understand it.)

[mpsalm]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Motorist

Debating on whether or not to remove the clam on my Elise... My hands aren't very slimy, but my buddy's are.

I'm a total mechanical novice.

If you need a hand let me know. I'm in the city now but am in Westchester on occasion to visit the puppy.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Originally Posted by mpsalm

If you need a hand let me know. I'm in the city now but am in Westchester on occasion to visit the puppy.

THE PUPPY!!!!!!!! Thanks a lot! And let me know if I can help you as well!

[fzust]

Originally Posted by stinkyonion

Then for the Moroso oil pan (also special discount right now on lotustalk $485 delivered) I just need some form of gasket goo like Hondabond and everything for a oil change (6 quarts synthetic 5w40, filter, oil plug gasket, teflon tape).

No other projects to be done at same time I take it. ( I really want a new intake and increased flow exhaust but it messes up the ecu program as I understand it.)

You may need more than 6 quarts with the Moroso pan. Make sure you check it and don't run it low.

You are correct about the intake. Cat back exhaust is no problem.

[Overlander23]

Good question... I replaced the stock air filter with a K&N (yeah, yeah I know it doesn't filter as well but I had one on a 1G DSM for 100k and the engine looked new when I tore it apart) and reset the CEL. We'll see if it comes back. I do know that throttle response is now much better, so changing the filter seems to have alleviated a possible over-rich situation.

And while a K&N may possibly not filter as well as stock, I can now hear the supercharger whine starting at around 4k on WOT... and that banshee wail is worth it. I couldn't hear it at all before. Keep in mind that a new stock replacement filter may have done the same thing... I haven't tested that.

Originally Posted by stinkyonion

So overlander23, what was the cause of your check engine light ? I couldnt find the resolution of your issue in the other thread.

[Overlander23]

Because I like putting jack stands at the rear position for stability... which is under the diffuser. Ramps for clearance... diffuser removal... jackstands on rear crossmember/stand point.

Originally Posted by stinkyonion

Why does everyone remove the diffuser plate with the car on ramps instead of jackstands? (never done it yet)

[stinkyonion]

bought some husky torque wrenches at Home Depot today. Sears was sold out of torque wrenches. Dont know where to get other brandsexcept online with waiting for delivery. Hope the huskys are good enough for supercharger install (patiently awaiting arrival).