'Official BWR SC Install Thread'

[plastique999]

Installed...and driven over the weekend...kit is superb.
Dyno went from 149 to 214, and torque 110 to 141.
Charlie did my tune...
The engine purrs perfectly at idle, the cam switch over at 5000 RPM is very smooth.
The only issue is that the AFR is 13.87 - running a little lean. I'm wondering if this could be due to the fuel injectors being different from the Katana kit...Charlie any comments?

[plastique999]

Thanks to DRS for their awesome work!
Kris, Cody, and John are great to work with...here are some pics they took during install:


full fender covers


Intake removed - ready for S/C


Cody solders instead of crimping to ensure optimal contact


S/C in!


compared to measly stock


A peak through the rear mesh


Manly engine mounts also installed


On the dyno...go baby!

[Hobby Racer]

plastique999 - where did you get the mesh grates for the rear lid? Looking for something similiar for my elise.

[plastique999]

Originally Posted by Hobby Racer

plastique999 - where did you get the mesh grates for the rear lid? Looking for something similiar for my elise.

SCC did the work for me! Although there are threads for some who have done the "do-it-yourself" mod...

[thegoat]

Ran the SC on the track yesterday. Much improved!

I agree that the car should have this much power stock. It pulls out of the corners so much better. Was a little disappointed in straight line speed. I was only slightly faster than a stock elise on the straights. But I would say that I gained a second or two or three on each lap (maybe more - wasn't timed at all and we tried to stay within eyesight of each other) at Pueblo over a stock elise with a very good driver driving. We couldn't pin point any specific place where I pulled away, just did it pretty evenly throughout the course of the lap.

The car ran very, very well. Excellent job BWR!

[Blacktan]

is there any instructions manual on pdf file ??

thanks guys
Haris

[chotto]

Originally Posted by Blacktan

is there any instructions manual on pdf file ??

thanks guys
Haris

Yes. The instructions are in pdf as well.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Originally Posted by plastique999

Installed...and driven over the weekend...kit is superb.
Dyno went from 149 to 214, and torque 110 to 141.
Charlie did my tune...
The engine purrs perfectly at idle, the cam switch over at 5000 RPM is very smooth.
The only issue is that the AFR is 13.87 - running a little lean. I'm wondering if this could be due to the fuel injectors being different from the Katana kit...Charlie any comments?

Those numbers are much better. I was worried something was wrong before!

[Iceman-]

With or without rear clam on?

How many installed it with clam in place?

[charliex]

13.87 ? send me the dyno graph/afr graph, what load/rpm is it reaching that at?
it'll be that high as you're getting on it, but at wot it'll be at 12.1-12.5, if its that high at wot you're either using an exhaust sniffer and reading after the cat, or something else is up.

[Phantom]

Originally Posted by Iceman-

With or without rear clam on?

How many installed it with clam in place?

Clam on installation here- No regrets- The only issue was a couple of particularly tight bolts where access was cumbersome (i.e. lower alternator bolt & idler pulley)- Clam on is the way to go if you have a nice assortment of tools-

[Phantom]

I know this has been discussed, but I'd appreciate some input on where we should gap the cooler plugs- It's a little unclear in previous posts if everyone is talking in metric terms-

Thanks!

[Blacktan]

Originally Posted by chotto

Yes. The instructions are in pdf as well.

I will appreciate if anyone can send them to me via email ...

Thanks

[fzust]

Originally Posted by charliex

13.87 ? send me the dyno graph/afr graph, what load/rpm is it reaching that at?
it'll be that high as you're getting on it, but at wot it'll be at 12.1-12.5, if its that high at wot you're either using an exhaust sniffer and reading after the cat, or something else is up.

Additionally, as I mentioned previously, the Mass-air sensor being dirty/ not accurate can lead to a lean condition. The injectors are a different brand from the Katana, I believe. We use Bosch, however, they are both 440cc, so that is not the issue.

[thegoat]

Originally Posted by Phantom

I know this has been discussed, but I'd appreciate some input on where we should gap the cooler plugs- It's a little unclear in previous posts if everyone is talking in metric terms-

Thanks!

The iridiums come pre-gapped at .044. You can't gap iridiums or you will damage them.

[thegoat]

Originally Posted by Phantom

Clam on installation here- No regrets- The only issue was a couple of particularly tight bolts where access was cumbersome (i.e. lower alternator bolt & idler pulley)- Clam on is the way to go if you have a nice assortment of tools-

I started to do clam off, got stuck at the oem harness bar and plastic black panel, and finished clam on. Fully recommend clam on. you will save yourself hours. For clam on, remove the rear diffuser, heat shield, rear panel, the underbelly panel next to the rear diffuser, passenger side rear well (I removed both, I had a tough time getting my airbox out through the top), and boot lid.

[turbophil]

Stock plugs seem to be fine on the sub 230ish hp kits...

Best,

Phil

[plastique999]

Originally Posted by Bavarian Motorist

Those numbers are much better. I was worried something was wrong before!

Yes, my air filter was filthy!

Originally Posted by charliex

13.87 ? send me the dyno graph/afr graph, what load/rpm is it reaching that at?
it'll be that high as you're getting on it, but at wot it'll be at 12.1-12.5, if its that high at wot you're either using an exhaust sniffer and reading after the cat, or something else is up.

Charlie thanks again for the tune - I'll have Kris send you the files. I also notice a slight higher idle only at certain times - around 1400 RPM or so, but when I blip the throttle, it will come back down to around 800. Is this just the ECU adapting? I heel/toe all the time - don't know if that makes a diff. (waiting for the throttle blip?)

Originally Posted by fzust

Additionally, as I mentioned previously, the Mass-air sensor being dirty/ not accurate can lead to a lean condition. The injectors are a different brand from the Katana, I believe. We use Bosch, however, they are both 440cc, so that is not the issue.

Thanks Fred, yes I thought the injectors were the same cc ....will check the mass/air sensor

[charliex]

let it idle 15 minutes, then it'll settle in for a while.

dirty maf can also cause a higher idle, ecu should sit at 880-900 rpm

you can regap denso iridiums Installation Guide: DENSO Iridium


can't really see any issues with the bosch vs the RC, the spray patterns could be different

[EliseAutoXr]

Originally Posted by Iceman-

With or without rear clam on?

How many installed it with clam in place?

I did mine myself (well I did have extra hands from friends), clam on, with a very limited toolset... no problems, other than lots of scratches and scraps on my arms and hands.

BUT.... I do potentially have an issue. When I tightened the fuel rail down I heard plastic cracking/popping. I'm hoping that it was from the spacer, there is a small lip around the inside of the hole, that may have not been aligned and got "smashed" with the tightening.

IF it was the injectors being crushed, where do I get new ones and how much do they cost? Is everyones injectors "tight", when in place or can they be twisted?

Thanks for any assistance!!