'Official BWR SC Install Thread' - Page 24 - LotusTalk

over40 · 03-01-2009, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian 111

Mine's in the box on a shelf in the basement.

Doooh! Well how high is the shelf you have it on? Maybe I can find a higher shelf....

Where it CT do you live? Might have to get together so that we can help each other break our cars. (my second biggest inhibitor right now, fear of screwing it up).

Mimzy · 03-01-2009, 07:29 PM

I would not worry about screwing it up. The instructions are great and easy to use. I did mine by myself took me like 8.5 hours. My only problem is that I do not own a laptop so I had to run between the garage and computer to look at the pix.

MikeS · 03-16-2009, 06:55 PM

Just started my install this past weekend and am a little more than half way through. It is a little intimidating pulling half of the car apart (clam off approach) but as has been said before, great instructions, pics, and a great on-line forum for this job.

stinkyonion · 03-19-2009, 05:41 AM

Started my install last weekend, hoping to finish next weekend. As long as I had the rear clam off, installing clam hinge and other bits.

Sergialized · 03-20-2009, 07:15 AM

Mine is not install and is for sale...

anyone interested please PM me.
FS-Blackwatch Racing Supercharger Kit

waydui · 05-13-2009, 08:59 AM

Getting ready to begin my install.

Instructions say to re-use intake manifold gasket.

My rule has always been to use new gaskets every time.

Is it OK to re-use the original gasket? If not, can I use a Toyota one and if so, what is the Toyo Part Number.

Thanks.

Regards,
Wayne

EBTurbo · 05-13-2009, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waydui

Getting ready to begin my install.

Instructions say to re-use intake manifold gasket.

My rule has always been to use new gaskets every time.

Is it OK to re-use the original gasket? If not, can I use a Toyota one and if so, what is the Toyo Part Number.

Thanks.

Regards,
Wayne

$17.50 shipped to you in Ohio. You can call the shop to place the order.
(562)694-2226. ask for Kris.

EB Turbo

Hobby Racer · 05-18-2009, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waydui

Getting ready to begin my install.

Instructions say to re-use intake manifold gasket.

My rule has always been to use new gaskets every time.

Is it OK to re-use the original gasket? If not, can I use a Toyota one and if so, what is the Toyo Part Number.

Thanks.

Regards,
Wayne

I reused the gasket with no issues. Its a steel gasket so as long as its not deformed or nicked up it should be fine.

waydui · 05-19-2009, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hobby Racer

I reused the gasket with no issues. Its a steel gasket so as long as its not deformed or nicked up it should be fine.

Just to be on the safe side, I bought a new gasket at the local Toyota dealer.

$10.47, Part #1717722010.

Regards,
Wayne

waydui · 05-27-2009, 08:14 PM

Ok, Cory (cory1000) and I spent 2 1/2 days putting this in.

First, thanks to Cory for helping out. He corrected my many mistakes brought on by my only reading half the instructional sentence. I jumped on my assumptions and was off. Not a good thing!!

The install was fairly simple. The instructions and photos were outstanding!! Thanks to Fred at BWR for putting together a fantastic set of directions!

No parts were missing, all components lined up correctly and fit into place as needed.

We did the install with the clam off. Took about an extra 1-1 1/2 hours to remove the clam. I suppose you can do it with it on, but I wouldn't. Having all that extra room makes everything so much easier to do.

Only hiccup was the reflashed ECU which had a "micro-short" according to Tony at PES, when I got it back the first time. As a result the ECU wouldn't "talk" to the car, so nothing happened. I sent it back to PES over the Memorial Day holiday and they turned it around immediately. Started right up after the fix. Thanks to Patrick and Tony at PES!

Cory and I drove it without the clam on and we were both impressed with the improvement of the car's performance. We got it up on the second cam, but you really can't feel it. It is so smooth. Just a tremendous amount of pull. Very nice!!

This is not a hard project, just be patient and follow the instructions. Toughest part was the alternator which required some grinding on the mounting tabs so it could slide into the new position.

It all looks very OEM and sounds great.

Regards,
Wayne

P.S. I also took the opportunity to install some extra items including Innovative engine mounts, new brake lines and Defi gauges.

Car should be all back together by this weekend.

waydui · 06-01-2009, 05:18 PM

I've had the SC in for a few days, ran a few test drives up and down the street. Yesterday I did the first serious, high speed runs.

After about 15 minutes of driving, at approx. 7500RPM in 2nd gear, the CEL came on. Car felt fine, no catastrophic failure, just the light.

Pulled the codes today and this what I've got:
1. P0103 - MAF circuit high input
2. P0113 - IAT sensor 1 circuit high input
3. P1302 - Manufacturer control, ignition system or misfire

Anybody have any ideas about what my problems are? I can't drive it until these things are solved.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Regards,
Wayne

Blacktan · 06-12-2009, 09:05 AM

i am in the progress of installing 440cc injectors .

Which are the suitables ?

SL9-0440 or
SL4-0440

Product Categories

Thanks guys

exlondoner · 06-18-2009, 10:40 AM

We'll be jumping into the install on Monday with clam on, this thread has been excellent, hopefully it'll go smoothly.

exlondoner · 06-23-2009, 07:28 AM

Hi All - hoping to get some help on step #80.

We're working on a 2006 and it mentions removing the studs for later use is this the case with an 06, just confused as to what to do here!

Thanks
Mick

luxige · 06-23-2009, 08:15 AM

Hi Mick -

Remove the studs. There is no need to retain them. You will use four M8 bolts to re-attach the TB.

Look ahead to the re-assembly, steps 157 and 158, bold print. That should make it clear.

exlondoner · 06-23-2009, 08:36 AM

awesome greg!!

more questions to come....

Quote:

Originally Posted by luxige

Hi Mick -

Remove the studs. There is no need to retain them. You will use four M8 bolts to re-attach the TB.

Look ahead to the re-assembly, steps 157 and 158, bold print. That should make it clear.

exlondoner · 06-23-2009, 09:24 AM

Totally confused on step 107 +, I have no idea what needs to happen with this bushing or how to use this tool???

waydui · 06-23-2009, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by exlondoner

Totally confused on step 107 +, I have no idea what needs to happen with this bushing or how to use this tool???

I'm assuming you are talking about the special tool Fred sent with the kit.

This tool is used to push the bushing on the alternator mounting tab flush with the edge of the tab. If you look at the "ear" or tab where the alternator is to be mounted, you will see a bushing in the mounting hole. That bushing has a portion of it on the inside on the mounting tab. You need to push this bushing out towards the outside edge of the mounting tab so that the alternator itself can fit into the opening. The bushing edge should be flush with the inner surface of the mounting tab.

The special tool is essentially a pusher/puller mechanism that allows you to move the bushing. Very clever idea actually.

Let me know if I can explain this better. Good luck.

Regards,
Wayne

exlondoner · 06-23-2009, 10:45 AM

Thanks Wayne.

As per the instructions for the special tool is the diagram correct? The long bolt does not fit inside to out(going from right to left). Can we reverse and place the bolt going from the outside inwards to meet the special tool which we would have on the inside of the tab. As per the diagram I cannot get the bolt to fit from the inside as it is too long.

Quote:

Originally Posted by waydui

I'm assuming you are talking about the special tool Fred sent with the kit.

This tool is used to push the bushing on the alternator mounting tab flush with the edge of the tab. If you look at the "ear" or tab where the alternator is to be mounted, you will see a bushing in the mounting hole. That bushing has a portion of it on the inside on the mounting tab. You need to push this bushing out towards the outside edge of the mounting tab so that the alternator itself can fit into the opening. The bushing edge should be flush with the inner surface of the mounting tab.

The special tool is essentially a pusher/puller mechanism that allows you to move the bushing. Very clever idea actually.

Let me know if I can explain this better. Good luck.

Regards,
Wayne

waydui · 06-23-2009, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by exlondoner

Thanks Wayne.

As per the instructions for the special tool is the diagram correct? The long bolt does not fit inside to out(going from right to left). Can we reverse and place the bolt going from the outside inwards to meet the special tool which we would have on the inside of the tab. As per the diagram I cannot get the bolt to fit from the inside as it is too long.

I don't have the diagram in front of me, I'm at work right now. If I had the tool I could explain it in a heartbeat. But let me try to add a little more info.

I have attached a pic of how the mounting tab should look AFTER you have pushed the bushing flush. The pic shows the alternator mounting bolt and spacer tube. This is NOT the special tool.

As I recall, the long bolt went in from the left side of the picture, inboard (towards center of the car). The second part of the tool went into the gap between the 2 mountings tabs (you have to separate the tool into 3 separate parts) and then a nut with washer went on the outer side of the outer tab. You then turned the bolt and it gently "rams" the bushing outwards by pushing the hollow tube against the side of the bushing.

The tool seems a little counterintuitive until you start playing with it.

I actually made a mistake and pushed the upper bushing out, but by reversing the tool, I was able to put it back to its original position.

Regards,
Wayne

03-19-2009, 05:41 AM	#464 (permalink)
stinkyonion Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Oak Brook, IL Posts: 242 Images: 2	Started my install last weekend, hoping to finish next weekend. As long as I had the rear clam off, installing clam hinge and other bits. __________________ 2006 polar blue Elise, VF stage II, clam hinge, von Hep exhaust, HID, Zeitronix/Dashdaq (GPS, wideband O2, EGT, fuel+oil pressure), BWR fuel rail, moroso oil pan, HD SS clutch, RTV brace, green wire mod, harnesses, Oddysey 625, alpine pdx-5, jvc avx77 head unit, jl speakers, voltmeter on dash, custom gauge pod, etc.

05-13-2009, 08:59 AM	#466 (permalink)
waydui GR8 SCAPE Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kirtland, Ohio Posts: 1,182	Intake Manifold Gasket Getting ready to begin my install. Instructions say to re-use intake manifold gasket. My rule has always been to use new gaskets every time. Is it OK to re-use the original gasket? If not, can I use a Toyota one and if so, what is the Toyo Part Number. Thanks. Regards, Wayne __________________ _______________________ '05 Elise Magnetic Blue, Black, Touring, Hard Top, Star Shield, Stage II Exhaust, Arqray decat pipe, S2 Front Splitter (UK), Sector 111 Rear Tow Hook, Driving Lights, De-Snorkled, K&N Air Filter, Shift-I System, LSS Dampers & Springs, Sector 111 V-Bar, Schroth Profi II 5 point harness, Exige S Probax seats, 1/4 turn undertray screws, Stealth bulbs, BWR SC with PES tune, Innovative engine mounts, SS brake lines.

05-27-2009, 08:14 PM	#470 (permalink)
waydui GR8 SCAPE Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kirtland, Ohio Posts: 1,182	SC Install Completed Ok, Cory (cory1000) and I spent 2 1/2 days putting this in. First, thanks to Cory for helping out. He corrected my many mistakes brought on by my only reading half the instructional sentence. I jumped on my assumptions and was off. Not a good thing!! The install was fairly simple. The instructions and photos were outstanding!! Thanks to Fred at BWR for putting together a fantastic set of directions! No parts were missing, all components lined up correctly and fit into place as needed. We did the install with the clam off. Took about an extra 1-1 1/2 hours to remove the clam. I suppose you can do it with it on, but I wouldn't. Having all that extra room makes everything so much easier to do. Only hiccup was the reflashed ECU which had a "micro-short" according to Tony at PES, when I got it back the first time. As a result the ECU wouldn't "talk" to the car, so nothing happened. I sent it back to PES over the Memorial Day holiday and they turned it around immediately. Started right up after the fix. Thanks to Patrick and Tony at PES! Cory and I drove it without the clam on and we were both impressed with the improvement of the car's performance. We got it up on the second cam, but you really can't feel it. It is so smooth. Just a tremendous amount of pull. Very nice!! This is not a hard project, just be patient and follow the instructions. Toughest part was the alternator which required some grinding on the mounting tabs so it could slide into the new position. It all looks very OEM and sounds great. Regards, Wayne P.S. I also took the opportunity to install some extra items including Innovative engine mounts, new brake lines and Defi gauges. Car should be all back together by this weekend. __________________ _______________________ '05 Elise Magnetic Blue, Black, Touring, Hard Top, Star Shield, Stage II Exhaust, Arqray decat pipe, S2 Front Splitter (UK), Sector 111 Rear Tow Hook, Driving Lights, De-Snorkled, K&N Air Filter, Shift-I System, LSS Dampers & Springs, Sector 111 V-Bar, Schroth Profi II 5 point harness, Exige S Probax seats, 1/4 turn undertray screws, Stealth bulbs, BWR SC with PES tune, Innovative engine mounts, SS brake lines.

06-01-2009, 05:18 PM	#471 (permalink)
waydui GR8 SCAPE Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Kirtland, Ohio Posts: 1,182	Throwing Codes like confetti... I've had the SC in for a few days, ran a few test drives up and down the street. Yesterday I did the first serious, high speed runs. After about 15 minutes of driving, at approx. 7500RPM in 2nd gear, the CEL came on. Car felt fine, no catastrophic failure, just the light. Pulled the codes today and this what I've got: 1. P0103 - MAF circuit high input 2. P0113 - IAT sensor 1 circuit high input 3. P1302 - Manufacturer control, ignition system or misfire Anybody have any ideas about what my problems are? I can't drive it until these things are solved. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Regards, Wayne __________________ _______________________ '05 Elise Magnetic Blue, Black, Touring, Hard Top, Star Shield, Stage II Exhaust, Arqray decat pipe, S2 Front Splitter (UK), Sector 111 Rear Tow Hook, Driving Lights, De-Snorkled, K&N Air Filter, Shift-I System, LSS Dampers & Springs, Sector 111 V-Bar, Schroth Profi II 5 point harness, Exige S Probax seats, 1/4 turn undertray screws, Stealth bulbs, BWR SC with PES tune, Innovative engine mounts, SS brake lines.

06-12-2009, 09:05 AM	#472 (permalink)
Blacktan This is my 5th Lotus ... Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Athens,GREECE Posts: 873	i am in the progress of installing 440cc injectors . Which are the suitables ? SL9-0440 or SL4-0440 Product Categories Thanks guys __________________ 2006 Fed Aspen White Elise LSS -SOLD- 2006 Fed Phantom Black Exige BWR/CharlieX tune 2006 Fed Storm Titanium Exige -SOLD- BMW E66 745i GREEKS do it better www.lotusclub.gr/forum

03-01-2009, 07:29 PM	#462 (permalink)
Mimzy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 62	I would not worry about screwing it up. The instructions are great and easy to use. I did mine by myself took me like 8.5 hours. My only problem is that I do not own a laptop so I had to run between the garage and computer to look at the pix.

03-16-2009, 06:55 PM	#463 (permalink)
MikeS MikeS Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Central Mass. Posts: 20	Just started my install this past weekend and am a little more than half way through. It is a little intimidating pulling half of the car apart (clam off approach) but as has been said before, great instructions, pics, and a great on-line forum for this job.

03-20-2009, 07:15 AM	#465 (permalink)
Sergialized Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Quebec Posts: 61	Mine is not install and is for sale... anyone interested please PM me. FS-Blackwatch Racing Supercharger Kit

06-18-2009, 10:40 AM	#473 (permalink)
exlondoner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: MD Posts: 175	We'll be jumping into the install on Monday with clam on, this thread has been excellent, hopefully it'll go smoothly.

06-23-2009, 07:28 AM	#474 (permalink)
exlondoner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: MD Posts: 175	Manifold stud removal Hi All - hoping to get some help on step #80. We're working on a 2006 and it mentions removing the studs for later use is this the case with an 06, just confused as to what to do here! Thanks Mick

06-23-2009, 08:15 AM	#475 (permalink)
luxige luxige Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: MA Posts: 1,187	Hi Mick - Remove the studs. There is no need to retain them. You will use four M8 bolts to re-attach the TB. Look ahead to the re-assembly, steps 157 and 158, bold print. That should make it clear. __________________ In theory, there is no difference between Theory and Practice. In practice, there is. - Y. Berra

06-23-2009, 09:24 AM	#477 (permalink)
exlondoner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: MD Posts: 175	Totally confused on step 107 +, I have no idea what needs to happen with this bushing or how to use this tool???

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