'Official BWR SC Install Thread'

[fpitas]

Originally Posted by charliex

I do have a test tune for the tubulars for the katana, but its not been released yet.

I'll volunteer to be a beta tester

[K2S]

Help stuck on step 72, what am i suppose to remove?

[K2S]

oh man nevermind, i feel stupid, i got it

[Mimzy]

Mimzy,
What new bushing??? We did not replace the lower bushing, just pushed it in.. in fact my kit did not have a new bushing in it. We did put a little grease (very thin film) on the spacer and the alternator to get them to slide but it took a bunch of work to get the alignment right on the lower mount.

When I said bushing I meant new spacer. Sorry for the confusion.

[rstutts]

so I don't know what 72 is. When I left this morning, I was at taking the fuel rail off. Don't remember the number.
I have 3 things that has happened:
1. My engine would not start for the few seconds after I took out the 20 amp fuse
2. The 10 mm nut way deep in the clam, is an 8mm
3. When I lifted the clam off, 2 sorta u shaped shims fell out. One on each side. Does anyone know where these are suppose to go?
The pictures and instructions are great. No way would I have tackled this with out them. THANKS!
Rick

[K2S]

Originally Posted by rstutts

so I don't know what 72 is. When I left this morning, I was at taking the fuel rail off. Don't remember the number.
I have 3 things that has happened:
1. My engine would not start for the few seconds after I took out the 20 amp fuse
2. The 10 mm nut way deep in the clam, is an 8mm
3. When I lifted the clam off, 2 sorta u shaped shims fell out. One on each side. Does anyone know where these are suppose to go?
The pictures and instructions are great. No way would I have tackled this with out them. THANKS!
Rick

Haha wow the same exact things happened to me. Step 72 is the step where you have to remove the mounts from the throttle body to the intake manifold, for some reason when I looked at the picture the first time, I thought the wrench was part of the throttle body, so I could not find those bolts.

Another misfortune occured when I was lifting the fuel rail. I lifted the rail without first draining the fuel. Now there's gas all over my engine, and staying in my garage is starting to make me dizzy

[ryoung99]

Rick,

Since you did not start the engine just be ready to clean up some very small fuel spills when you remove the injector rail, etc. If you have some towels on hand it will work just fine. In face before you start doing anything with the wiring your should wipe down all the grease/dirt/fuel off the engine that you can.

Pretend you are Hotlips Hollihan from MASH in the ER.

As for the shims I read somewhere they are not really needed and might have been put there just to frustrate and piss you off when trying to reassemble the clam.

Hopefully you are having fun.

Looks like this might be a busy weekend of installations. I would be there to help if it was not for my ex-wife. The alimony I have to pay here is stopping me from getting the new D-Jet. If I had the D-Jet I promise I would be back helping you.


Rick

[rstutts]

I am at work now, itching to get back to my garage and get on to the next number (what ever it is). Won't be able to do too much tonight though. Gotta take my wife out to eat and to a movie.
Oh yea, sent my ECU off this morning.
Rick

[rstutts]

Rick,
What is a Nitto NT-01's ?

[ryoung99]

Originally Posted by rstutts

Rick,
What is a Nitto NT-01's ?

My rear tires. They are a bit different than the A048's and R888, less tread more rubber. They are also less expensive the A048's and R888's.

Without a doubt I prefer them to A048's, have not run R888's so I cannot compare but I would have trouble believing the R888's could be any better.

In fact, I had to do some chassis tuning when I put them on as I did not replace my front A048's and the grip of the rear tires created an understeer that I did not have with the A048's. (thus I added a bit more rear steer to the car).

Rick

[thegoat]

Originally Posted by charliex

I have a couple of different header setups going but they've all been S's, but so far we're tuning on per car basis. The headers will cause the tune to run lean, you'll probably see 13.1-13.5 area, I realise there is a disagreement going here and rather than get into it again, i'd say go with what fred/PES recommends for their tune, and with what i recommend for my tune and leave it at that.

In the process of a 4-2 header tune for the katana though, i also have the FF race headers 4-1 to tune for at some point, just need to go to the dyno again. I do have a test tune for the tubulars for the katana, but its not been released yet.


I've done a few of the bwr cars so far, have yet to hear of a problem.

Mail my tune!

[thegoat]

Would anyone be willing to post up the part number on the colder spark plugs? I want to pick them up on my way home from work (don't carry the instructions around with me).

Thanks.

[K2S]

Originally Posted by thegoat

Would anyone be willing to post up the part number on the colder spark plugs? I want to pick them up on my way home from work (don't carry the instructions around with me).

Thanks.

NGK BKR7E-11

[charliex]

Originally Posted by thegoat

Mail my tune!

its already gone

[K2S]

Does anyone know if this is next to the throttle body?

[ryoung99]

Got the ECU, and have now driven a supercharged Lotus

It sounds as if there is some detonation (engine pinging) in the engine when the engine loads up. Once I have it wound up there is no sound.

Any thoughts? I put in the cooler plugs.

When I started the car the CEL light was on after I drove the car for a bit and put gas in the light went off, hopefully that is normal.

The car rocks and has plenty of power.

[fzust]

Originally Posted by ryoung99

Got the ECU, and have now driven a supercharged Lotus

It sounds as if there is done detonation (engine pinging) in the engine when the engine loads up. Once I have it wound up there is no sound.

Any thoughts? I put in the cooler plugs.

When I started the car the CEL light was on after I drove the car for a bit and put gas in the light went off, hopefully that is normal.

The car rocks and has plenty of power.

Rick,

You need to drive the car moderately for a couple hundred miles to allow the ECU to adapt to your car.

[ryoung99]

Are you serious????

I will try, thanks.

So you are saying don't worry about it right now, but it appears the pinging is when I am driving it in a more moderate manner.

thanks

[Overlander23]

They are body spacers that sit underneath the bolts that hold the rear shell to the sides. Hard to explain, but I'm sure you remember those two bolts (per side). They're designed to space the body out for proper outer panel alignment. I used some Hylomar to "stick" them in place on the panels while replacing the bolts.

Originally Posted by rstutts

3. When I lifted the clam off, 2 sorta u shaped shims fell out. One on each side. Does anyone know where these are suppose to go?
Rick

[charliex]

add to what fred says
drive the car all over the range, lik you're breaking it in, idle 15 minutes, dont drive at a constant speed/throttle/load for 60 minutes and think it'll be done, it has to vary to each breakpoint on the map, if you have an ecu with a prior adaption it'll start further off and take slightly longer to settle.
in the meantime you might see some off throttle stalling, this isn't an uncommon thing with the cars, (excessive stalling points to vacuum or exhaust leaks )

if you think you're getting any knock you can run higher octane gas till it settles down, if you mix octanes you'd need at least half a tank of each to make a difference, the more of the higher octane , the better.

also if you do get lumpy idles, check the short term fuel trims, if they're excessively negative -12 or worse, look for vacuum leaks, positive look for exhaust leaks.
you're looking for best 0-4, typical -4 to 4

easiest way to pinpoint intake leaks is with a hose pipe and a LIGHT stream of water, don't go powerwashing it, the engine will hestitate when you hit the right spot, you can use contact cleaner or such and spray it around the engine bay, however it can be harder to find the leak and some of that stuff is corrosive.

exhaust leaks are usually pretty easy to find, cat, or the clips.

i'd say 90% of the install problems i've heard about fall into the vacuum leak type, the rest have been trapped wires, incorrect seating of the injectors (those rubber o rings ought to be changed at install, they're cheap from toyota), reversed wiring (check and recheck) .


the injectors are a common place for leaks too, i've seen it where they leak and they don't spray fuel, though i've seen that too, up close!

obviously theres different types of detonation, if its heavy det, then you definitely want to switch to higher octane or look into it, i'm talking about mild barely noticeable stuff , which should happen 4500 - 5800 rpm give or take.