'Official BWR SC Install Thread'

[snuggles1]

ummm, didnt u go to the BWR site? and click on the dyno chart?

[Bavarian Motorist]

This will be quite a bit faster than an Elise SC.

[Phantom]

FYI:

Step 77 - There's a bracket attached to the bottom of the TB in addition to the four 12 mm nuts*

*2006 Elise

[thegoat]

I agree with that - 2006 exige.

[srwhitman]

Got my car back today from ForceFed. They did an awesome job. I am trying to baby it for the first 100 miles (now Fred says "few hundred"). I am up to 50 miles or so but babying it is hard. I am a little concerned about this MAS issue but since I didn't do the install, I don't know where to look for it much less how to verify its reading. Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

[FLuXeXigeS]

so how many has successfully installed their SC?

anyone in SoCal?!?

[gtlotus]

Thanks! Fred about the o2 delete.
Gene

[Brikhaus]

Originally Posted by FLuXeXigeS

so how many has successfully installed their SC?

anyone in SoCal?!?

Mine is working awesome - installed by EU Autowerks in Toronto

[fzust]

Originally Posted by srwhitman

Got my car back today from ForceFed. They did an awesome job. I am trying to baby it for the first 100 miles (now Fred says "few hundred"). I am up to 50 miles or so but babying it is hard. I am a little concerned about this MAS issue but since I didn't do the install, I don't know where to look for it much less how to verify its reading. Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

I think it likely requires less than a couple hundred, just trying to be safe. You want to hit alot of different load sites so gradually get into it. I am concerned about the MAS issue too, as the one we took out of Bavarian Motorists's looked like someone dipped it in crud. I am going to call FF today and make sure they test the flow rate on any new ones.

[dma550]

Originally Posted by architect

everying is installed. but won't crank over. BWR kit . Acts like the security system is opperating. Interesting note, the fuel gauge reads emty, but the tank is full.

HELP!

This happened last time my battery went dead. Isn't the interior light position important to the security arming (or is this an urban legend).

If it is what happened to me, there isn’t even a starter motor click, right?

[ishur]

Originally Posted by fzust

I think it likely requires less than a couple hundred, just trying to be safe. You want to hit alot of different load sites so gradually get into it.

Fred:

I will be getting my car back from FVMC tomorrow. Can you be a little more specific on the "re-break-in"--are you basically saying do it like the first 600 miles on the stock car (except only for maybe 100-200 miles), i.e., mostly half throttle or less with occasional bursts of WOT, and nothing above 6000 rpm or so?

Just want to make sure I treat it right.

[thegoat]

Originally Posted by srwhitman

Got my car back today from ForceFed. They did an awesome job. I am trying to baby it for the first 100 miles (now Fred says "few hundred"). I am up to 50 miles or so but babying it is hard. I am a little concerned about this MAS issue but since I didn't do the install, I don't know where to look for it much less how to verify its reading. Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

The MAF is attached to the side of the airbox. I don't have the instructions in front of me, but when you get to the point of removing the airbox (around 80ish) it will first have you unclip the MAF. There is a corresponding picture. Once the MAF is unhooked, you just unscrew the two little phillips-headed screws holding the MAF to the side of the airbox.

[fzust]

Originally Posted by srwhitman

Got my car back today from ForceFed. They did an awesome job. I am trying to baby it for the first 100 miles (now Fred says "few hundred"). I am up to 50 miles or so but babying it is hard. I am a little concerned about this MAS issue but since I didn't do the install, I don't know where to look for it much less how to verify its reading. Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

From post #106(bears repeating...)

Additionally, we've done extensive testing and I want to point out something we've discovered. It is CRITICAL that anyone installing ANY supercharger kit inspect & test and/or replace their mass-air sensor element. We've seen that the mass air sensor element can get very dirty(remember in the lotus much dirtier air hits the intake than a car with a front intake.) and this dirt will cause the mass-air sensor to read low(Its a fairly linear change). Aftermarket intakes, higher mileage cars, and cars operated in dustier or dirtier conditions are even more prone to this.
This will cause the ECU to think more air is entering the engine than reality you will have a potentially dangerous lean condition!

You can test the mass-air sensor with a scan tool by having someone monitoring the mass-air sensor while you drive WOT in second gear. You should see ~5grams/sec at idle and 225-230grams/sec at above 8200rpms. If you see much less than this you should replace your mass-air sensor element. These new mass-air elements may not survive harsh chemical cleaning and should just be replaced.

Since this time, others have apparently successfully cleaned the MAF. I would still recommending to replace it to be safe.

[architect]

Originally Posted by dma550

This happened last time my battery went dead. Isn't the interior light position important to the security arming (or is this an urban legend).

If it is what happened to me, there isn’t even a starter motor click, right?

Correct, just acts as if the security system has it disabled. I've had a dead / removed battery before, but never this issue. Fred had me send the ECU back. As to the legend??????

[fzust]

Originally Posted by ishur

Fred:

I will be getting my car back from FVMC tomorrow. Can you be a little more specific on the "re-break-in"--are you basically saying do it like the first 600 miles on the stock car (except only for maybe 100-200 miles), i.e., mostly half throttle or less with occasional bursts of WOT, and nothing above 6000 rpm or so?

Just want to make sure I treat it right.

Make sure they test the MAS air! per the instructions in the post above! As far as break in, a couple hundred miles of moderate driving getting a bit more aggressive as you go. See post #100 from CharlieX(re-posted here for convenience)

add to what fred says
drive the car all over the range, lik you're breaking it in, idle 15 minutes, dont drive at a constant speed/throttle/load for 60 minutes and think it'll be done, it has to vary to each breakpoint on the map, if you have an ecu with a prior adaption it'll start further off and take slightly longer to settle.
in the meantime you might see some off throttle stalling, this isn't an uncommon thing with the cars, (excessive stalling points to vacuum or exhaust leaks )

if you think you're getting any knock you can run higher octane gas till it settles down, if you mix octanes you'd need at least half a tank of each to make a difference, the more of the higher octane , the better.

also if you do get lumpy idles, check the short term fuel trims, if they're excessively negative -12 or worse, look for vacuum leaks, positive look for exhaust leaks.
you're looking for best 0-4, typical -4 to 4

easiest way to pinpoint intake leaks is with a hose pipe and a LIGHT stream of water, don't go powerwashing it, the engine will hestitate when you hit the right spot, you can use contact cleaner or such and spray it around the engine bay, however it can be harder to find the leak and some of that stuff is corrosive.

exhaust leaks are usually pretty easy to find, cat, or the clips.

i'd say 90% of the install problems i've heard about fall into the vacuum leak type, the rest have been trapped wires, incorrect seating of the injectors (those rubber o rings ought to be changed at install, they're cheap from toyota), reversed wiring (check and recheck) .


the injectors are a common place for leaks too, i've seen it where they leak and they don't spray fuel, though i've seen that too, up close!

obviously theres different types of detonation, if its heavy det, then you definitely want to switch to higher octane or look into it, i'm talking about mild barely noticeable stuff , which should happen 4500 - 5800 rpm give or take.

[fzust]

Originally Posted by ishur

Fred:

I will be getting my car back from FVMC tomorrow. Can you be a little more specific on the "re-break-in"--are you basically saying do it like the first 600 miles on the stock car (except only for maybe 100-200 miles), i.e., mostly half throttle or less with occasional bursts of WOT, and nothing above 6000 rpm or so?

Just want to make sure I treat it right.

Ishur,

I called FVMC a moment ago and spoke to the service manager and told him what to look for and do for the MAS. Make sure you ask them if they tested it etc. when you pick it up. Have fun!

[skibum]

Will one of the rental scan tools from Checker read the MAF? Also, I did not see anything in regards to spark plug gapping. DO we need to tighten up that gap at all?


Fred/BWR - I am only 1/2 way thru the install but I must commend you on what an amazing kit this is. I have done 4-5 other forced induction kit installs and none of them are even close in comparison. From the detailed instructions, photos, support, and the "all-inclusive" approach, it takes the cake. Thank you and I can't wait to turn it over tonight.

[fzust]

Originally Posted by skibum

Will one of the rental scan tools from Checker read the MAF? Also, I did not see anything in regards to spark plug gapping. DO we need to tighten up that gap at all?


Fred/BWR - I am only 1/2 way thru the install but I must commend you on what an amazing kit this is. I have done 4-5 other forced induction kit installs and none of them are even close in comparison. From the detailed instructions, photos, support, and the "all-inclusive" approach, it takes the cake. Thank you and I can't wait to turn it over tonight.

First of all Thanks! The manual was a huge effort, however, I've done turbo installs on my old M3 and the manual just sucked. I was determined that would not be the case here.

For the plugs, you do not need to tighten the gapping. The car has no trouble firing through it. I run the stock gapping on the XP car with 14psi, 750cc injectors and 108Octane gas with no trouble. Coil on plug is a good thing! 1 heat range cooler as recommended before is suggested.

[rudaire]

Originally Posted by fzust

From post #106(bears repeating...)

This will cause the ECU to think more air is entering the engine than reality you will have a potentially dangerous lean condition!

The dirty element must cause the ECU to think LESS air is entering the engine, which indeed would cause a lean condition.. If the ECU thought more air was entering than in reality, it would then inject more fuel for this erroneously large quantity of air, and you'd have a rich condition..


cheers..
d

[ishur]

Originally Posted by fzust

Ishur,

I called FVMC a moment ago and spoke to the service manager and told him what to look for and do for the MAS. Make sure you ask them if they tested it etc. when you pick it up. Have fun!

Thanks, Fred, and also for your break-in answer. I had actually emailed FVMC with your original post on the MAS the other day, and they said they would make sure to test it. My car is an 07 with only 2500 miles on it, so it may be fine.