To those who have removed the tranny...

[AZReason]

I removed my Transmission a little differently than Clovis. The differences are in red.

The Toyota part number to renew the circlip on the left axle: 90081-52005

Originally Posted by Clovis

Yep, it's out. Thanks for the pointers and tech support. Here's what I ended up doing:

1. Disconnected battery
2. Removeed rear diffuser and underbody engine panel
3. Lifted car using appropriate rear jack points (per manual) and removed rear wheels
4. Removed rear deck lid - not necessary but made things easier
5. Disconnect and removed intake air box. Again, this made things easier
-----I skipped this step
6. Removed rear driver side fender liner
-----I skipped this step
7. Removed 30mm axle nuts
-----I skipped this step
8. Disconnected both rear hub carriers at plinth (noted shims) and toe link ball joints
----I removed the two bolts that hold the camber shims, the parking brake cable, the rear caliper and the bolts that hold on the lower a arm, won't work as well if you have inner ball joints instead of the track brace/rtd/rtv
9. Pushed axle stub out of both rear hubs
----I skipped this step
10. Removed RHD driveshaft - first removed two bolts at bearing support
----I removed the axle, hub, toe links and a-arm as one assembly
11. Removed LHD driveshaft - axle circlip overcome w/ leverage bar
----I did the same for the Left as I described for the right
12. Disconnected parking brake wire and removed LHD brake caliper
----I completed this step previously
13. Removed LHD lower suspension/hub assembly from frame
----I completed this step previously
14. Disconnected clutch slave, grounding wire, back-up light switch, and shift linkage from tranny
15. Removed inertia switch - prone to getting broken if not removed
---I skipped this step
16. Removed starter bolts and pulled starter away from transmission
17. Disconnect exhaust at flex joint
18. Secured engine with hoist
19. Loosened slightly the 8 or 9 bell housing bolts
20. Remove LHD, RHD, and rear engine mounts (w/ heat shield)
----I completely removed the front and rear mounts, I just removed the 3 bolts that connect the left mount to the transmission, I accessed the bolts from above with a wrench after pushing the shift mechanism out of the way
21. Tilted engine towards LHD side enough for transmission to clear frame rail at LHD wheel well
22. Supported transmission and removed bell housing bolts
23. Withdrew transmission by sliding towards LHD wheel well and lowering

I'd rate this job a 4.5 out of 5 on the difficulty scale due to tight packaging, stuborn connections, and time required.

[choi0706]

yea now days, i dont need a hoist.. I only use a transmission jack..

[Monsi]

Originally Posted by choi0706

yea now days, i dont need a hoist.. I only use a transmission jack..

how do you tilt the engine with just the trany jack?

[fzust]

We pulled Jason Uyeda's trans at nationals on jackstands in the paddock. The fact that I've done it a few times before didn't hurt.

1. No need to touch the right axel hub. Pull the wheel for access, but thats it.
2. don't pull the mid-shaft, just loosen the nuts on the hub so it can move to the right side of the car.
3. Pull the lower A-arm, just so its out of the way.
4. Put a jack under the engine i.e. oil pan so you can support the motor. Disconnect all but the right-side motor mount.
5. Put a jack under the trans to support it. you lower it and the engine at the same time(this puts a tilt on the motor so you can slide the trans out.

[Chococar]

A few questions:

Do you have to remove the coolant circulating pump from the bracket or do anything else with coolant lines?
Do you really have to remove the starter? I've unbolted mine, but it's hard to extricate, so I'm thinking about bolting it back in.
Most importantly: my driver's side axle didn't pop out with a pry bar, so I'm searching for a puller. Does anyone know a brand and model # that works? I'll go buy it. My local auto parts stores don't have anything to rent or buy.

Thanks!

Joe

p.s. If anyone wants to watch/help the final stage of flywheel/clutch replacement, come on up to Santa Barbara Saturday.

[Eyelise]

Answers embedded below.

Originally Posted by Chococar

A few questions:

Do you have to remove the coolant circulating pump from the bracket or do anything else with coolant lines?

I don't recall doing anything with the coolant lines. I did the u tube bypass, and TB bypass but that was it.

Do you really have to remove the starter? I've unbolted mine, but it's hard to extricate, so I'm thinking about bolting it back in.

Yes remove the starter. The two bolts that hold the starter on pass thru the transaxle bell housing.

Most importantly: my driver's side axle didn't pop out with a pry bar, so I'm searching for a puller. Does anyone know a brand and model # that works? I'll go buy it. My local auto parts stores don't have anything to rent or buy.

I applied a constant force by wrapping a ratcheting tie around the inner housing on the axle and then used a sliding hammer with a forked end to pop out the axle. If done in this fashion it will take 5min. Jeff

Thanks!

Joe

p.s. If anyone wants to watch/help the final stage of flywheel/clutch replacement, come on up to Santa Barbara Saturday.

[choi0706]

no, just unbolt the pump off the clamp..

its not hard to remove the starter.. it comes out from below, and can be done with the mount still there.. without the mount there, its cake..
you do need to remove the starter because its bolted onto the /gearbox..

Originally Posted by Chococar

A few questions:

Do you have to remove the coolant circulating pump from the bracket or do anything else with coolant lines?
Do you really have to remove the starter? I've unbolted mine, but it's hard to extricate, so I'm thinking about bolting it back in.
Most importantly: my driver's side axle didn't pop out with a pry bar, so I'm searching for a puller. Does anyone know a brand and model # that works? I'll go buy it. My local auto parts stores don't have anything to rent or buy.

Thanks!

Joe

p.s. If anyone wants to watch/help the final stage of flywheel/clutch replacement, come on up to Santa Barbara Saturday.

[choi0706]

is there an autozone nearby?

if so they rent a slide hammer, and a FWD axle puller.. those two will help you pull that axle out..

FWD Axle Puller Adapter OEM27058
Slide Hammer OEM27033

Pullers & Slide Hammers - OEM Automotive tools, Built by GreatNeck

I dont know if those part numbers are valid because according to OEM website above its different..

adapter 27058

[Chococar]

Thanks all.

There is an AutoZone nearby, but they don't rent these tools.

I just ordered the adapter and slide hammer from Newark Tools -- they seem to be valid numbers.

Thanks,

Joe

[Chococar]

The adapter and slide hammer work like magic! Super easy. One note: the adapter is slightly too small and needs to be ground down a bit. It is easy to do with any sort of grinder that you have. The metal is strong enough to pull the axle, but not too hard to make grinding difficult.

I got great customer service from Newark Tools, BTW. They made up for a shipping goof by sending a second set overnight at their cost to make sure I had the tools when I needed them.

So, if anyone wants to drop by and borrow the tools, I would be glad to loan them to you.

New ACT HD clutch & aluminum flywheel (thanks Shinoo) are now installed.

[carl]

Today Joe and I will put the trans back in, hopefully i wont have to use my gold card for the ER. carl

[Chococar]

It is tricky to line up the transmission and slide it in, but we got it! Thanks Carl!

BTW, to reinstall the driver's side axle, you need to tap it in a bit.

[carl]

Originally Posted by Chococar

It is tricky to line up the transmission and slide it in, but we got it! Thanks Carl!

BTW, to reinstall the driver's side axle, you need to tap it in a bit.

It was not a easy deal,Joe tried the trans clean and jerk, no good . We used a jack (not the JACK) some wood and mussel it wasn't pretty. Kind of like making sausage. Most of the bleeding has stopped. I should heal by next week when we start the SC install. carl

[Eyelise]

I did this myself and nearly had an orgasm when the tranny popped back on.

Originally Posted by carl

It was not a easy deal,Joe tried the trans clean and jerk, no good . We used a jack (not the JACK) some wood and mussel it wasn't pretty. Kind of like making sausage. Most of the bleeding has stopped. I should heal by next week when we start the SC install. carl

[Chococar]

It's amazing you were able to do that by yourself. It is NOT a one-person job!

[choi0706]

I do it myself all the time.. use a transmission jack from HF.. if you're doing it off the floor.. much easier to put in..

[Eyelise]

I have a lift, engine hoist, and two tranny jacks. It still was a big PITA.

[Surferjer]

I'm just getting started with mine, dreading it. But I'll go slow and have a friend who can help in December. I'm swapping boxes, as I assume my LSD went kaplooey. I also will need to swap bellhousings because the donor tranny has a couple busted female bolt holders.

[Surferjer]

Very frustrated, need help!

I got to where it was time to remove the axles. And they won't budge! The RH axle, I took the two bolts out of the brace and it's like the metal pieces are seized together! I tried pounding a screw driver in and no luck. The pic from earlier in the thread is what I'm talking about. Any suggestions?


On the driver's side, I pried where the red arrow is going, and all I managed to do is bend up the flimsy metal piece. Should I try to pry on the green thing?


Any and all help appreciated. I feel like an epic failure.

[LordZ]

Get the slide hammer and fwd axle tool. They pop right out. It's very tough to do it with a screwdriver for the first time.

Now the 2nd and 3rd time I was able to use a small crowbar to get them out.

Don't pry on the thin metal, there is a lip in the green portion that the fwd axle tool goes in, that metal is just a dust ring.