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Old 10-02-2005, 06:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Elise HID conversion

Hi everyone,

The parts are finally in so I could now fill all orders. Included in the kit is everything you need to install a 100% reversible HID kit--there is no cutting of any wires. I've always hated stripping insulation off of factory wiring only to have to solder in a splice. The connection ends up being hard (from the solder) and just ugly with black electrical tape covering the joint which will get gooey with age.

Included in the kit:
- 2 H1 based HID bulbs
- 2 ballasts/ignitors (single unit vs. separate ballast and ignitor)
- 2 custom wire harnesses to provide power to the ballast
- 6 expanding rivets to secure ballast in place
- Installation instructions

Tools you'll need:
- The factory wheel bolt tool (for those who are using the factory splined lug bolts)
- a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lug bolts
- a phillips screwdriver
- a 5mm allen wrench or socket
- a 1/4" drill bit and drill
- a pair of needle nose pliers

Pricing is as follows:
- XTec 35Watt kit (4500K or 6000K): $425
- XTec 50Watt Kit (have to check on color temps, but I believe it's the same): $465
- Rebased Philips bulbs and Philips XLD 145 slim ballast 4300K color temp 35Watt: $550
- Rebased Philips bulbs and Philips XLD 145 slim ballast 6000K color temp 35Watt: $650

Other configurations are available (e.g. HID high and low beam)...contact me for details. Do note that it's not good to cycle HIDs too frequently as this shortens life so the HID high beam option should be for those who cruise at night and need the extra visibility and not those who like to flash people to move out of the way

For the first 10 orders, I will pick up shipping. Otherwise, it's $15 shipping via UPS.

Thanks,
Chester
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Old 10-02-2005, 07:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTP
Are you drilling into the crash structure to mount the ballast? How do we place and order? Paypal ok?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the area shaded in blue is where I would recommend you attaching the ballast. It's not the crash structure as that is the part that's underneath. The part that I've drilled into is a shroud that directs air up through the radiator and also prevents rain from splashing all over. I've tried double sided tape unsuccessfully (the cornering forces had something to say about this!) and tried to fabricate a bracket, but that added complexity and wasn't very sturdy. In the end, I just drilled two or three 1/4" holes per side and used expanding plastic rivets (included in the kit) to fix the ballast in place. Once the rivets are secured, you get a sense of, "that ain't going anywhere"

As for ordering, PM or e-mail me and we'll take this offline. For the first few batches, I will be adopting the just in time delivery method so I don't have a kit of each flavor on hand ready to go (I don't even know which kit will end up being the popular one). I will also try to batch the orders such that I place an order for say five kits at a time to save on shipping costs. I would anticipate a 2 week turnaround time.

Thanks,
Chester
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Old 10-04-2005, 01:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I found out the available Xtec color temps as well as the lumen output.

<table border = 1><tr><td>Color Temp</td><td>35 watt Lumens</td><td>50 watt Lumens</td></tr><tr><td>3000K</td><td>3200</td><td>4000</td></tr><tr><td>4500K</td><td>3400</td><td>4200</td></tr><tr><td>5000K</td><td>3300</td><td>4100</td></tr><tr><td>6000K</td><td>3200</td><td>4000</td></tr><tr><td>8000K</td><td>3100</td><td>3900</td></tr></table>
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raggedy1
chester, what's the warranty on this setup - bulbs and ballast?
The warranty is one year for bulb and ballast and is through the manufacturer. The harness will be lifetime.
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just found out that the surge is 70 Watts regardless of 35Watt or 50Watt ballasts, which confirms my original thinking that it's simply striking the arc. Of course, I have a few kits on the way and will send one out to someone who can measure and graph the power usage.

Chester
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Old 01-17-2006, 08:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thumbs up New HID's installed - awesome!

First things first - Woohoo!

I purchased ekological's HID kit (see details here) in the 50 watt, 8000k color configuration.

What makes this kit so wonderful is that no wiring has to be cut or spliced - because an adapter harness is included...
The install is a total plug-n-play!

Here's what's in the kit (there are some generic mounting also included - but you don't need any of that!):



I'm not going to go into any specific detail regarding the installation since both Eko and Michael Sands have detailed HID installation notes. Total install time, including taking all these pictures and having a couple of breaks was just under 4 hours... I really took my time. If I did it again I could do it under 2 hours.

The installation went smoothly with the exception of a couple of items that might unexpectedly cause you grief:

1. Pushing the HID wires through the existing rubber grommet is almost impossible with only ten fingers (by yourself). Get a helper!

2. A drill bit extender will come in handy drilling the right hand hole for mounting the passenger side ballast.

3. I noticed (Eko mentions this in a recent thread) that my passenger side wheel liner has no electronics riveted to it. This seems to be a production line change.

4. I replaced the high-beam lamps and corner lamps with SilverStar and LED's at the same time I upgraded the low-beams to HIDs. I found it easier to remove the entire lamp assembly to gain access to the lamp clips and wiring connectors. It's only 3 bolts on the bottom and one side bolt on the top.

5. Go for a test drive down your driveway before replacing the cover - rachet in hand to verify lamp elevation. I set the height to what I thought was correct, then buttoned everything up and saw that the lamps are pointing far too low. Get it right the first time.

6. Finally - say goodbye to ANY AM radio reception. Buzz on all frequencies from 550khz -> 1710khz. FM is fine.

Driver's side ballast mounting location:




Passenger side ballast mounting location (before/after):






Driver side HID, Passenger side stock:






All done - check it out!!!









All in all I'm 100% satisfied. It looks like a 50k+ car now IMHO...

Kudos Eko!

p.s. I'm posting a separate thread regarding the LED / SilverStars
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny B
I noticed a cone shaped shadow in the pic above. Is that from the filament in the HID capsule?
HID capsules don't have a filament, but they do have a return wire and that's the shadow that's cast from that. I wanted to get the return wire installed on the other side, but no manufacturer was interested as this appears to be limited to certain constructions of projectors (more specifically, the Elise). I can check on a spare projector for my E36M3 at home, but the base where the bulb attaches to is probably designed with the bulb twisted 180 degrees from where it is in the Elise. With halogens lacking the return wire, it's not an issue with a shadow cast.

With all that said, I initially though that the shadow cast would bother me, but after several hundred miles at night, I don't even notice it anymore.

Nice writeup, David! So how was it driving home at night last night?
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Old 01-23-2006, 11:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Nope - stock fuses have been just fine. I've driven around with them on for over 4 hours so far - with at least 50 on/off cycles.
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Old 01-23-2006, 10:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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My shop installs lots of HID systems. I won't be able to test an Elise/Exige until mine comes in April. but this may help. The headlight fuse should be replaced with one 5 amps higher. It is not the normal running of the lights that is a big deal. they actually pull less amps than the stock lights. It is the start up. Warming the salts in the capsule takes extra power. Hense the igniter. this can happen in a colder than normal morning, like Ground Loop said.

Also with the AM reception thing. Couple of things to try. Remember the ant. is grounded to the car. It may be necessary to run a seperate ground wire the the ground on the HID Balast. Also I have noticed some noise interference issues if the balast itself is not grounded to the vehicle. I would assume this to be a problem on this car with no metal grounded chassis parts available. You can try running a wire from the nearest ground source and grounding that to the body of the balast. This has taken care of noise problems we had in the past when we mounted the balast on a composite bumper beam. You can never have enough grounds. Balasts are sometimes so noisy that they "whine" audibly when they are on, and without a good ground that noise is induced into the radio. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-26-2006, 09:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swisstexelise
because the stock lights suck!!!!
Search for threads on Osram SilverStar bulbs. For around $65 you can have great headlights and not have to go to the hassles of converting to HIDs...

Source for discount bulbs.
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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nothing against HID conversions...

I understand the need for brighter head lights. The Elise, as originally delivered, suffered from poor aiming. Aiming the headlights improved the pattern significantly. I find them acceptable but not great.

One alternative is to upgrade the bulbs. This helps.

Another alternative is to convert to HID and this thread is exceptional in showing how this might be accomplished. However there are problems with these conversions. Some have been noted, like the additional power drain.

Another issue that has not been covered is the reduced quality of the beam due to the change in optics. While the projector optics have not been changed, the type and size of the light source has! The HID light source is an arc and is shaped differently from the original equipement bulb which has a filament. This difference results in a change in the light projected down the road. The cutoff might be the same but the glare and light projected under the cutoff changes.

It is even possible to have less light projected at a distance and while the front looks brighter and whiter, the distance light may in fact be less, something that really matters.

There is an exceptional article and additional information on the Daniel Stern Lighting website:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html

While I do not think the differences are necessarily dramatic, I think you should be aware of both the good points and bad when considering this conversion.

Michael

edited to add link
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