Help! Problems bleeding cooling system - LotusTalk

WeightIsTheEnemy · 11-07-2009, 02:16 PM

So I read all the threads I could on this and read the manual's instructions. I'm bleeding the system without the vacuum and it seems the system is not pumping all the coolant throughout the system. I removed about 5 or 6 quarts of coolant (from the two radiator hoses and the engine block), refilled the system (it would only take about one quart) and started the car with the two bleeder valves open. The rear valve started flowing coolant so I shut it. But the front one hasn't flowed any coolant and the radiator hoses up front are cold. The engine got up to 220 and the cooling fan turned on so I shut it off to let it cool off.

Am I missing something here? Should I have run it up to temp with the bleeder valves closed and then opened them? Why isn't the thermostat opening when the temp is getting that high?

An urgent response is appreciated, thanks!!

TimMullen · 11-07-2009, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeightIsTheEnemy

So I read all the threads I could on this and read the manual's instructions. I'm bleeding the system without the vacuum and it seems the system is not pumping all the coolant throughout the system. I removed about 5 or 6 quarts of coolant (from the two radiator hoses and the engine block), refilled the system (it would only take about one quart) and started the car with the two bleeder valves open. The rear valve started flowing coolant so I shut it. But the front one hasn't flowed any coolant and the radiator hoses up front are cold. The engine got up to 220 and the cooling fan turned on so I shut it off to let it cool off.

Am I missing something here? Should I have run it up to temp with the bleeder valves closed and then opened them? Why isn't the thermostat opening when the temp is getting that high?

An urgent response is appreciated, thanks!!

The theromstat can only open when it is in contact with the coolant - you might not have enough coolant in the system to make the thermostat open yet.

Try parking the car with the nose pointed down (back end higher than the front). That will help to let the coolant flow to the front. Give it plenty of time to fill with the bleed valve open up front.

lt0302 · 11-07-2009, 03:10 PM

I used my air hose to "push" the coolant from the filling reservoir

WeightIsTheEnemy · 11-07-2009, 05:33 PM

Thanks, guys. I failed to realize at first I still had the front of the car jacked up a few inches, but before I lowered it I noticed the system had swallowed the reservoir's worth of coolant since I turned the car off. So I lower the car, topped off the coolant and ran it again to bleed the system.

ChrisH · 11-07-2009, 06:02 PM

I had the same problem.
Help - Cooling system problem
Neither the radiator or the heater would get hot, even though the engine was overheating and the bleeder valves all show liquid only coming out of them (no air). It went away on its own after 5 days of sitting still (I went on a business trip). This system seems to trap air at the water pump. It is a poorly designed system from a coolant change point of view. It needs a bleeder valve near the thermostat, or something similar.

One thing you might try if you haven't already is opening the bleeder screw on the reservoir. It is a compartmented tank, so just leaving the cap off isn't quite the same.

By-the-way, 5 or 6 quarts of coolant being removed is pretty small. I put in over 8 after draining.

elise/europa · 11-09-2009, 07:28 PM

It is easier to purge the system with the rear jacked on ramp. If you have a lot of time, just jack the rear and fill the tank without the engine running. You can press the big hose to create a pump effect.

All time with the rear lift up, run the engine until the engine is warm, stop and cool down. Restart and cool down gain. Repeat. Reving the engine sometime help, and stop.

The thermostat have a small check valve. When the engine run, the check valve is closing and become sealed. With the engine stop, the check valve opens and let coolant passing thru.

If major purge was done, you should also help the purging by opening the purge valve on front and rear. You can do it with teh engine stop. When hot, the system is pressurised, but with the engine stop, the pressure is equal everywhere (check valve open). You can remove air by the purge valve.

11-07-2009, 02:16 PM	#1 (permalink)
WeightIsTheEnemy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 41	Help! Problems bleeding cooling system So I read all the threads I could on this and read the manual's instructions. I'm bleeding the system without the vacuum and it seems the system is not pumping all the coolant throughout the system. I removed about 5 or 6 quarts of coolant (from the two radiator hoses and the engine block), refilled the system (it would only take about one quart) and started the car with the two bleeder valves open. The rear valve started flowing coolant so I shut it. But the front one hasn't flowed any coolant and the radiator hoses up front are cold. The engine got up to 220 and the cooling fan turned on so I shut it off to let it cool off. Am I missing something here? Should I have run it up to temp with the bleeder valves closed and then opened them? Why isn't the thermostat opening when the temp is getting that high? An urgent response is appreciated, thanks!!

11-07-2009, 03:10 PM	#3 (permalink)
lt0302 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Glendale, AZ Posts: 332	air hose I used my air hose to "push" the coolant from the filling reservoir __________________ 05 Lotus Elise R/K Supercharger, Stage II, Moroso Oil Pan, RTD Brace, High Volume All Aluminum Radiator, Stainless Steel Break Lines, Oil Catch Can, ACT Clutch, HID, Carbon Fiber Spliter, Reverie Side Scoops, CF side skirts, FF gauge pod, BWR gauge pod, Cup Air Box, S111 front & rear tow hooks, upgraded tail lights-LED, Driving lights, LETSLA, ...

11-09-2009, 07:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
elise/europa Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: montreal Posts: 348	It is easier to purge the system with the rear jacked on ramp. If you have a lot of time, just jack the rear and fill the tank without the engine running. You can press the big hose to create a pump effect. All time with the rear lift up, run the engine until the engine is warm, stop and cool down. Restart and cool down gain. Repeat. Reving the engine sometime help, and stop. The thermostat have a small check valve. When the engine run, the check valve is closing and become sealed. With the engine stop, the check valve opens and let coolant passing thru. If major purge was done, you should also help the purging by opening the purge valve on front and rear. You can do it with teh engine stop. When hot, the system is pressurised, but with the engine stop, the pressure is equal everywhere (check valve open). You can remove air by the purge valve. __________________ ____________________________________ Elise 2006, white, Katana Europa 1969, green, H22A, 194 whp, 1550# CONFIGTECH.ca / Solidworks

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11-07-2009, 05:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
WeightIsTheEnemy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 41	Thanks, guys. I failed to realize at first I still had the front of the car jacked up a few inches, but before I lowered it I noticed the system had swallowed the reservoir's worth of coolant since I turned the car off. So I lower the car, topped off the coolant and ran it again to bleed the system.

11-07-2009, 06:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
ChrisH Mountain Road Nut Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ramona,CA Posts: 2,292	I had the same problem. Help - Cooling system problem Neither the radiator or the heater would get hot, even though the engine was overheating and the bleeder valves all show liquid only coming out of them (no air). It went away on its own after 5 days of sitting still (I went on a business trip). This system seems to trap air at the water pump. It is a poorly designed system from a coolant change point of view. It needs a bleeder valve near the thermostat, or something similar. One thing you might try if you haven't already is opening the bleeder screw on the reservoir. It is a compartmented tank, so just leaving the cap off isn't quite the same. By-the-way, 5 or 6 quarts of coolant being removed is pretty small. I put in over 8 after draining.

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