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Old 07-06-2009, 06:08 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Wiring issue. No tach signal.

Hey guys,

I am having tach signal wiring issues. The shift-i isnt picking my revs ups. The unit powers up fine. I need to to have you guys verify a few things for me:

1)I want to be sure that I should be tapping into the orange wire (like Waydui's install).
2)Also, can anyone tell me what the RPM calibration value should be?

I have double checked my wiring connections, but my multimeter needs a new battery so I cant rule out for sure that my wiring isnt the issue.

Frustrated at the moment.

Thanks,
Jonathan
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:02 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpryor27 View Post
Hey guys,

I am having tach signal wiring issues. The shift-i isnt picking my revs ups. The unit powers up fine. I need to to have you guys verify a few things for me:

1)I want to be sure that I should be tapping into the orange wire (like Waydui's install).
2)Also, can anyone tell me what the RPM calibration value should be?

I have double checked my wiring connections, but my multimeter needs a new battery so I cant rule out for sure that my wiring isnt the issue.

Frustrated at the moment.

Thanks,
Jonathan
I had this same issue and I ended up picking up a tach pickup module. I got a MSD GMR Pickup (PN 8918 / PN 89181).

I have it attached to the top wire of spark plug #1 (far right).

I did have to tweak the RPM values on the Shift-I. You use values that are half of what you'd normally use. Eg. 3250 and 4050.

I hope this helps. If you get it working without the pickup, let me know.

BTW, you have to run a 3-conductor wire from the engine bay to the switched power cables on the radio to power the pickup.
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:44 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Thanks for the response cobrabyte.

By top do you mean closest to the front of the car when installed? If so, my current configuration (and waydui's, I think) would be the rear-most wire (orange). Maybe I should just look at the schematic to confirm where it really should go. I was hoping not to buy the pickup module. Plus, after all the messing around I did with wiring today, I REALLY dont want to run more wire. I would like to get this running without the pickup if possible.

I'm not sure if you're aware, but the Shift-i has RPM calibration settings that can be adjusted. I think, if set correctly, it would eliminate the need for the halfing of RPM values.

Thanks for the help,
Jonathan
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:46 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cobrabyte View Post
I had this same issue and I ended up picking up a tach pickup module. I got a MSD GMR Pickup (PN 8918 / PN 89181).

I have it attached to the top wire of spark plug #1 (far right).

I did have to tweak the RPM values on the Shift-I. You use values that are half of what you'd normally use. Eg. 3250 and 4050.

I hope this helps. If you get it working without the pickup, let me know.

BTW, you have to run a 3-conductor wire from the engine bay to the switched power cables on the radio to power the pickup.
+1

I use the same tach pickup to sense revs for my Traqmate (and the Traqmate provides power too... of course you have to provide power for the Traqmate... ).

Here's a pic from this thread: Traqmate & Chasecam Install Exige S (not my install, but very similar)

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Old 07-06-2009, 08:26 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpryor27 View Post
Thanks for the response cobrabyte.

By top do you mean closest to the front of the car when installed? If so, my current configuration (and waydui's, I think) would be the rear-most wire (orange). Maybe I should just look at the schematic to confirm where it really should go. I was hoping not to buy the pickup module. Plus, after all the messing around I did with wiring today, I REALLY dont want to run more wire. I would like to get this running without the pickup if possible.

I'm not sure if you're aware, but the Shift-i has RPM calibration settings that can be adjusted. I think, if set correctly, it would eliminate the need for the halfing of RPM values.

Thanks for the help,
Jonathan

Thanks for the tip on the calibration setting. I used 0.5 setting and it works now.

I did pull the signal from the front-most wire on the plug wire.

Try setting to 0.5 calibration and maybe that'll work.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:53 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpryor27 View Post
Hey guys,

I am having tach signal wiring issues. The shift-i isnt picking my revs ups. The unit powers up fine. I need to to have you guys verify a few things for me:

1)I want to be sure that I should be tapping into the orange wire (like Waydui's install).
2)Also, can anyone tell me what the RPM calibration value should be?
Jonathon,
The RPM signal pick up is from the GREEN wire, not the orange one. See pic.

I used the #1 cylinder, far right when looking from rear of car, as the pickup point for the RPMs.

The calibration value for my car is "1". It does take a few iterations of setting the value before you find the sweet spot.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:52 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Jonathon,
The RPM signal pick up is from the GREEN wire, not the orange one. See pic.

I used the #1 cylinder, far right when looking from rear of car, as the pickup point for the RPMs.

The calibration value for my car is "1". It does take a few iterations of setting the value before you find the sweet spot.
It's weird … I tried pulling it from this wire and I wasn't getting a proper signal. Perhaps I didn't have a proper air gap for the pickup to work properly.

I'll tinker with it today to see if I can pull a good signal off of that wire, as well.
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Old 07-07-2009, 08:35 AM   #48 (permalink)
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The RPM signal pick up is from the GREEN wire, not the orange one.
Yeah, its green. It was getting dark and I'm colorblind.

Also adjusted the RPM calibration with no sucess.

Based on the feedback it seems picking up a signal is hit or miss. I guess I'll just have to get the ignition pickup since I don't want to continue to strip additional wires.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:16 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpryor27 View Post
Based on the feedback it seems picking up a signal is hit or miss. I guess I'll just have to get the ignition pickup since I don't want to continue to strip additional wires.

Good idea on getting the pickup module.

I didn't want to strip any wires either, particularly on something like the coil pack.

Regards,
Wayne
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:36 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Checked five local stores, none in stock. Guess this project is on hold.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:00 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Summitracing.com has it.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:28 PM   #52 (permalink)
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So does JEGS.

Here's the link to the item: MSD 8918

Regards,
Wayne
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Old 07-10-2009, 03:32 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Wayne,

I was looking around today for the communications cable that you were talking about. The only stuff that I found was reasonable priced was telephone wire. It is solid core. Not really what I expected to use. I was thinking a small gauge stranded wire would be best. I have a ton of 20AWG laying around that I could use. I would just have to run three wires.

Wondering if yours was stranded or not.

Also, got the pickup in the mail today. Maybe I can finally finish this!
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:05 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Wayne,

I was looking around today for the communications cable that you were talking about. The only stuff that I found was reasonable priced was telephone wire. It is solid core. Not really what I expected to use. I was thinking a small gauge stranded wire would be best. I have a ton of 20AWG laying around that I could use. I would just have to run three wires.

Wondering if yours was stranded or not.

Also, got the pickup in the mail today. Maybe I can finally finish this!
You can see the 3-conductor, stranded wire in this video I just shot. I'm going to re-run the wire from the spark plug down to the shift cable access hole so that I have the same, black, 3-conductor wire everywhere.

You can also see my 'glove box' as a result of removing the passenger airbag and the inertia sensor. I'll be working this weekend on a way to attach the cover in a decent way.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KHwplQzuivo&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KHwplQzuivo&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:19 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpryor27 View Post
Wayne,

I was looking around today for the communications cable that you were talking about. The only stuff that I found was reasonable priced was telephone wire. It is solid core. Not really what I expected to use. I was thinking a small gauge stranded wire would be best. I have a ton of 20AWG laying around that I could use. I would just have to run three wires.

Wondering if yours was stranded or not.

Also, got the pickup in the mail today. Maybe I can finally finish this!
Hi Jonathon,
My wire is stranded.

It is much more flexible than solid core, has no "memory", so it's easier to run through the car.

I used computer/telephone grade shielded wire, 20/3C grade.

I started with 3 separate wires and it was a DISASTER!! Don't do it.

Go to a computer store, MicroCenter or something, and get the cable there. It'll make your life a lot easier.

Regards,
Wayne
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:36 PM   #56 (permalink)
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There's really no reason to run three wires into the car for an RPM pickup. Just run the tach signal wire from the pickup and pick the power and ground up from the ECU harness, or rig up a relay for switched power right off the battery.

I use the same pickup for my RaceLogic traction. I would be amazed if you powered it from the radio supply and didn't get some pretty crazy noise as a result.
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:49 PM   #57 (permalink)
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There's really no reason to run three wires into the car for an RPM pickup. Just run the tach signal wire from the pickup and pick the power and ground up from the ECU harness, or rig up a relay for switched power right off the battery.

I use the same pickup for my RaceLogic traction. I would be amazed if you powered it from the radio supply and didn't get some pretty crazy noise as a result.
I had worried about noise issues but I don't use my radio anyways. Mind letting us know specifically where you're taking power from?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:28 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies gents. I suppose I could find ignition and ground somewhere in the engine compartment. I just intended to do it neatly all from one source. Hadn't thought about the noise issue. I DO use my stereo.
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:32 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I had worried about noise issues but I don't use my radio anyways. Mind letting us know specifically where you're taking power from?
I use a switched 12v source from the ECU harness (don't recall the exact pin, easy to find one though) to switch a relay connected to the battery. That gives me switched power in the engine compartment without putting any additional load on the ECU circuit.

I run the MSD pickup, my intercooler fan and associated relays, and a few other things from that line. Works great.
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Old 07-11-2009, 08:33 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Sorry for the late reply, I just wanted to reiterate, so that you can continue with your integration project.

1 - I tapped the same RPM wire using Wayne's diagram. Though more old school, cut and splice.

2 - My calibration on my Cup car is also 0.5, took me awhile to figure out, was worried if I had the wrong RPM wire. But eventually, I realize that the calibration figure somewhat varies.

I now have a bit more experience, after having gone though this installation setup in a few different makes and models. So far, I'm unlucky, every setup has bond to have some installation issue (getting wrong wires or using wrong calibration). But eventually, I did manage to figure everything out.
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