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Old 01-06-2008, 06:55 PM   #41 (permalink)
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hinged rear clam

I have a 05 Elise and would buy a clam kit from you....would really help in the turbo install.
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:57 PM   #42 (permalink)
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when would mass production be decided?
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:59 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokin orange View Post
I have a 05 Elise and would buy a clam kit from you....would really help in the turbo install.
not just turbo install but work/maintance in general! Sure it helps you install that turbo kit/ or supercharger, but also a good way to maintain it or fix on the go! I definately would want one of these! My dream car (F40) is out of reach, yet this would be the next best thing!
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:02 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Have not seen a tilting clam since Germany. Phil very happy to see you working on it. Count me in on the purchase when you are ready.
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:03 PM   #45 (permalink)
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while I'm on a role.... I know I'm jumping the gun here, but are you going to plan to make the front clam tilt also?
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:18 PM   #46 (permalink)
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while I'm on a role.... I know I'm jumping the gun here, but are you going to plan to make the front clam tilt also?
That is not possible in the standard configuration. You really need a two piece clam for that to work; but a cool doable idea with some creativity.
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:22 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Here is me wondering if it will work the same for an Exige?
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:23 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:36 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Here is me wondering if it will work the same for an Exige?
I don't see why not...just have to take the hard top off first...I've got the service manual for both. Mounting hardware appears to be similar so you're in luck

...

........


Still a little ways off. Need to get the last bits ironed out before it's ready for the DIYer. Atleast the first hard part is behind us (first of two)... One more to go, then the rest should fall into place nicely...

Best,

Phil
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Old 01-06-2008, 08:17 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Will this require that the car be lifted off the ground? It would be extremely useful to have the ability to open the clam with the car sitting on the ground.

Thanks for taking the time to develop this.

ken
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:11 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Swweeeeet! And when you market this thing you can get some new tires from the profit as those are shot!

Looks really nice and love the color.
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:40 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Swweeeeet! And when you market this thing you can get some new tires from the profit as those are shot!

Looks really nice and love the color.
Those tires aren't even close! lol...they look like mine when I get them new and shaved to 4/32nds (they're Toyo RA-1s). He's still got 4 grooves which is like almost new when the blocks are shaved off. It's time to change when you go down past 2 grooves into a slick. The R888 is a similar compound. But this is all off topic...

the tilt is totally awesome, great work plenty of people here will want it
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:25 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Those tires aren't even close! lol...they look like mine when I get them new and shaved to 4/32nds (they're Toyo RA-1s). He's still got 4 grooves which is like almost new when the blocks are shaved off. It's time to change when you go down past 2 grooves into a slick. The R888 is a similar compound. But this is all off topic...

the tilt is totally awesome, great work plenty of people here will want it
Thanks for all the + feedback! That really helps keep the enthusiasm up for this project

Reagrding the tires, as Kaz said, they're just now ready to run


To clear up a couple questions I've been getting:

-The diffuser was removed for ease of the fabrication, but it doesn't need to come off for the tilt.

-The car was jacked up for same reason as above...

-We'll be making a special rear panel eliminator that will tie into the frame rails rather than clam.


The idea is that within a couple minutes, I can go from driving the car to tilting the clam up with no special tools, floor jack, or 4 letter words. So far so good

Best,

Phil
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:40 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Do you have to remove the gas door lid or do anything with the fuel lines in order to get it to tilt back?
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:48 AM   #55 (permalink)
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yet the roof will definately have to come off before you tilt though correct?
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:56 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Phil, if you don't mind:

1. Do you have to remove the hinges for the clam lid before? If so, how do you access the bolts?

2. What happens with the weatherseal for the top? Do you peel it off each time and then re-adhere it?

3. Do you have to remove the gas door trim screws?

4. I assume you still have to remove the fasteners to the diffuser on the lower outside points?

5. Do you still use the bolts inside the boot to the frame to attach (where the shims are)?

6. Do you then no longer have to have access to the inner bolts where you now have to remove the back trim panel and seats?

7. Do you have to lengthen the harness to the rear tail lights?
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Old 01-07-2008, 08:38 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Qood questions: See below...

Quote:
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Phil, if you don't mind:

1. Do you have to remove the hinges for the clam lid before? If so, how do you access the bolts?
No. the boot lid stays attached to the clam. The clam is supported with aluminum similar to how hyper-sport did theirs in this particular area...

2. What happens with the weatherseal for the top? Do you peel it off each time and then re-adhere it?
I used a razor to cut the weather strip at the seam. It may leak a bit (I doubt much if at all), but probably not worse than the car normally does

3. Do you have to remove the gas door trim screws?
The gas trim and the gas catch cup are two seperate pieces held together with 3 screws and some crazy glue. They're hard to seperate, but it's doable. Once seperated you can keep the door in place with the trim ring and still have a fuel catch cup. However, they're now disconnected allowing tilt...


4. I assume you still have to remove the fasteners to the diffuser on the lower outside points?
Nope. Special light-weight bracket made to support the diffuser there...

5. Do you still use the bolts inside the boot to the frame to attach (where the shims are)?
No bolts. Quick release pins.

6. Do you then no longer have to have access to the inner bolts where you now have to remove the back trim panel and seats?
That's actually pretty trick... I'll post pictures later this week of that setup. We still use that attachment point and it's accessable with the interior intact...

7. Do you have to lengthen the harness to the rear tail lights?
Yup. Or disconnect. I prefer lengthen, so I don't have to think about it...Similar deal with the battery. I prefer a new location rather than quick connect or adding 4' of cable. A little more effort up front makes life following much easier...

Hope that helps,

Phil
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Old 01-07-2008, 08:39 AM   #58 (permalink)
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yet the roof will definately have to come off before you tilt though correct?
Correct.
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:02 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Even with the rear hatch vs the lid? I'll be honest, I can't really recall how the elise's lid is attached, only seen it once.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbophil View Post
I don't see why not...just have to take the hard top off first...I've got the service manual for both. Mounting hardware appears to be similar so you're in luck

...

........


Still a little ways off. Need to get the last bits ironed out before it's ready for the DIYer. Atleast the first hard part is behind us (first of two)... One more to go, then the rest should fall into place nicely...

Best,

Phil
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:25 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Excellent answers Phil. Leaves me though with two more questions.

1. How Much?
2. When?



p.s. Interesting idea on slitting the weatherstripping. I like it.
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We have been feeling the buzz since 2002

2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. 0-60mph in 2.9 seconds.

..is a stranger in an open car. Tempt you in and drive you far away
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