Tilting Clam in the Worx

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by xtn

Phil can you please update us on your Exige beta testing?

Ya, I'm not too far just yet. I really see no reason why it won't work on an Exige, but I just don't have any local to try it on to say for certain. There's a a fellow LT'er with an exige that's itching to give it a go and started PMing from the git-go. Figure I'll send him a kit and see how it works. I'll probably have to beef up the hardware for those heavy turds

Best,

Phil

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by ChrisH

Phil,
I know this was discussed a bit before, but just to be clear, is there no way of keeping the stock rear panel, even if supported differently, and even if the one has to remove the diffuser and remove some rear panel screws from the inside? (It doesn't take very long to remove the diffuser.) I like the stock rear panel.

Well, to say there's no way would be a stretch. You could leave the rear panel on and just remove it prior to tilting. It would take a little of the sex appeal out of the clamhinge, as you would then have to remove your diffuser and rear panel before you could tilt...So what's that take? 20 minutes? So with the rest of the kit installed minus panel eliminator... soup-to-nuts, you could tilt your clam in 25 minutes with some basic hand tools (tools needed to remove panel and diffuser only). If you opted to use the panel eliminator, you're tilting the clam with no tools and if under 5 minutes... Choice is up to you. Depends on how much you like your rear panel... Point is that you can work it however you like...

Best,

Phil

[Vishus_1]

Hmmm...Some questions about the Exige version...

I know the Exige has a pull latch from inside for the hatch - does the Elise also? I guess if they are the same then there shouldn't be a problem but if they are different there might need to be an extension.

What about the S's that have the intercoolers snorkel attached to the scoop (07's and 08 240's). I don't think this will move with the clam.

Also late 07's - current Exiges and Elises that have the new rear bumpers which partly have pieces that attach to the underside of the trunk - I am guessing this whole rear bumper system will need to be removed to facilitate this kit.

How do you latch and unlatch this? The clam wont just sit there flopping and bouncing will it?

[kbob]

Wow, nice!

The only thing I can't see from the pictures is the latches. How do you latch the clam down?

[Dave]

Phil,

Class A as usual. I'll agree with the above, one of the best owner mods to date! Keep up the good work

[turbophil]

All good questions. The NA exige, I think would be pretty straight forward. Have to figure something out for the hatch latch though...

I don't know the answer on the snorkle. Will likely just have to be released from the IC before tilt and I'don't know what that takes. A few screws if I had to guess????

RE: The rear bumper. Not a question. It's got to go! Even if you weren't doing the clamhinge

RE: the fastening system. I don't have any pics, but it's so simple and light weight that it's funny. Mr. Chapman would be proud We used the stock mounting locations and some modified stainless hand bolts. They hold the clam down just as tight as the OE. I looked at so-called quick release systems (1/4 turn fasteners, spring loaded, etc..), but none of them really clamped the clam down tight like it was from the factory. I want the clam held down tight so fiberglass won't be cracking or rattling. These little fasteners even look quite pretty Each requires some lathe work, and the entire sysyem uses 8 of these. Again, very easy to use and under 3 minutes to remove and about the same to reinstall... The hardcore track nut who doesn't care about rattles, could opt to eliminate some of the fasteners or replace with 1/4 turn. I think the average Joe (like me) will like the idea that the clam won't be shaking apart on a Sunday drive with this fastening system even if it takes an addtional minute or two to raise the clam. For quick servicing like checking the oil, the boot lid is still the best option and it's still fully functional...

Best,

Phil

Originally Posted by Vishus_1

Hmmm...Some questions about the Exige version...

I know the Exige has a pull latch from inside for the hatch - does the Elise also? I guess if they are the same then there shouldn't be a problem but if they are different there might need to be an extension.

What about the S's that have the intercoolers snorkel attached to the scoop (07's and 08 240's). I don't think this will move with the clam.

Also late 07's - current Exiges and Elises that have the new rear bumpers which partly have pieces that attach to the underside of the trunk - I am guessing this whole rear bumper system will need to be removed to facilitate this kit.

How do you latch and unlatch this? The clam wont just sit there flopping and bouncing will it?

[knucklehead]

Incredible job Phil, really looks amazing!

[Cegan09]

That looks awesome. Very nice work.

[over40]

Originally Posted by Cegan09

That looks awesome. Very nice work.

So, if we were really weight conscious we could build a rear clam that does not have a trunk lid or a trunk?

Video of the steps to open?

[MaineLotus]

Excellent Phil, very well done. I like your hinges much better than mine!

[ZAMMY1]

a great innovation.
i'll be watching!
sam

[peck555]

WOW

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by MaineLotus

Excellent Phil, very well done. I like your hinges much better than mine!

THANKS! Yours were my inspiration!

Best,

Phil

[MaineLotus]

Originally Posted by turbophil

THANKS! Yours were my inspiration!

Best,

Phil

Maybe I could buy your hinges? PM me if possible

[shay2nak]

wow it will be so easy to work on the car now. that is badass.

[perryeyges]

Very nice hinge! Can't wait to see it on my car...

[kbob]

Bump. Any news about availability or price?

Thanks.

[slaughtr]

I was wondering about this today myself. Can't wait for any updates.

My only concern is that I'd like to keep my stock rear panel. It seems to me that if the hinge holds the clam and diffuser tightly, then the rear panel could be rigged to be completely cosmetic and perhaps easily removable. No?

[turbophil]

Hey Gang-

For those who are interested, please read all of this...

I'm losing track of tire kickers and buyers here... I completely understand that there are some that want to "wait and see" and others that really want in on the first batch. So I need to start a list so that I can get this first batch put together in the next couple weeks. It's likely those in the first batch are going to get this a bit cheaper than those in later runs since they're doing a little bit of R&D with their installs so be prepared.

Details:

Pricing: Assume pricing will be in around $900. May be a little more, may be a little less. May stay the same. We're close on that figure... Please be flexible

Color for aluminum panels: Black or Silver

Panels: 1) rear panel eliminator, 1) clam support, 1) battery mount for a PC625 battery. All water jet cut, T6 6061 aluminum, .100" thick, and of might fine quality

Fastening/hardware: 8 of the stock OEM 10 locations are retained for fastening. It won't rattle any worse than it already does Fasteners are very simple, light weight, and easy to obtain is you lose one. Think of them as bolts with knobs that you can loosen and tighten with your fingers/hand. They're stainless or cad plated. Other hardware for hinges will be supplied as well.

Instructions: Comes with color pics and instructions.

Installation: Requires normal hand tools and a drill/bit to put 4 holes in the boot floor.

Hinges: Will come preassembled and look similar to those posted in this thread.

Electrical: Battery cable extensions along with tail light harness extensions will be included. We'll include wire looming and shrink wrap. You need to be able to splice the tail light wires yourself (6 wires). It's easy with the clam off. Battery cables will bolt to the existing cables, so no splicing required there.

Installation: No body modifications other than the 4 holes in boot floor. 100% reversible back to stock. Some very slight trimming of the interior rollbar cover (black vinyl coated foam piece above the seats), which is undetectable unless you're really looking for it. Trimming and cutting of wheel well liners, but they're still retained and fully functional. Will take a day to install. Any shade tree mechanic should be able to do this as long as they're comfortable pulling the clam. I'll make myself as available as possible for questions. Those that know me, will tell you I can be too available at times

More Installation: Our panel eliminator should clear just about any exhaust out there. It's possible that some trimming may need to be done to the panel eliminator to clear some exhausts. I doubt it, but it's possible. The heat shielding on the "U" bend of the exhaust has to go. With the panel eliminated, there's plenty of free flow air to keep things cool back there. Header wrap can be substituted if concerned. The heat shielding "dog box" will need to be trimmed or removed-- up to you. I've had my removed for a year with no problems and it's HOT in Kansas...

Function: The clam is not designed to tilt so a certain amount of care should be taken when tilting. It should be in a controlled environment out of big wind gusts and things of that nature when tilting. The top must be removed to tilt. Takes under 5 minutes to remove the fasteners and tilt the clam. Clam tilts to approx 90 degrees

ETA and background: There are two of us that make the parts, myself and Andrew. Andrew is a close friend, business partner, and engineer that works in my shop a couple days a week. He's out of town for the week and I'm gone part of next. Once we're both back, we're going to start shipping these kits unless something unexpected gets delayed. My goal is to have everything ordered before I leave so that stuff is here and ready to assemble for shipping when I get back. It looks like we should be good to go on the first batch to ship in the first week or two of March.

The List: I need those who are actually wanting to buy in this first batch to PM me soon. I don't need any deposit, just some honesty. If you want on the early bird list, please actually go through with the purchase. If you hate the kit, we'll take it back...but you won't, so don't worry about that Please specify panel color in your preorder.

Odd ball questions: The two main questions are about Exiges and the rear panel.
1)Re: Exige. We have a guinea pig for the exige. He's on the current list. He'll let us know if it will work.
2)Re: the rear panel. If you elect to use the rear panel, you will have to remove some of the mounting hardware that secures the panel to the clam (4 bolts I believe) and just use the three bolts accessible through the boot to secure the rear panel and support the diffuser. Not a big deal. You'll have to remove those three bolts and then you'll be able to tilt the clam. It's not ideal, but it will work for those who really want to keep that heavy, heat trapping, rear panel in place Estimate that it will add 10 minutes to remove/reinstall those bolts plus the required 10mm wrench to tilt the clam with the rear panel in place. Fortunately, you still don't need to remove the diffuser even if you keep the panel

I hope that covers most of the details. Thanks again for the support and let me know if you have any questions.

Best,

Phil

[streetraces]

Awesome!