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Old 11-04-2009, 05:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Well winter is here...hints on storage.

Looks like I am going to sore my car this year. I have read the manual nothing special there. Any ideas or people with past experances that can help. I am in Ill. So it could be a mild winter or colder than hell. Last year I was able to drive the car on clear days but this year I will have to store it off site sp no battery tender.
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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hand the car up with jackstands

thats what I will be doiing soon....
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Leaving the car on jack-stands (and thus the A-arms with tires hanging), is not very good for a suspension. Modern radial tires aren't going to flat-spot in a few months, and any unevenness should roll out in a few miles.
Putting in a full tank of gas and fuel stabilizer and running it long enough to make sure is is in the fuel system is a good idea.
If you can't keep the battery on a tender where it will be stored, consider keeping the battery at home on the tender.

Or, just drive it all winter like I do :-)
(Note: Days with salt or ice on the roads around here number 3-12/yr and then I drive the truck)
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If not on jack stands pump the tyres over the normal pressures can help prevent flat spotting. Also good to move the car a couple inches every now and then.
If you are putting the car on stands, then remove the wheels and store flat.

If you have a steel based tank then best to fill up as above to prevent corrosion however if it's aluminimum then no need and easier to empty the tank to stop the fuel going bad.

You can spray the brakes with something like WD40 as this creates a film that helps prevent rust/corrosion. HOWEVER remember the first time you drive it the brakes will be pretty useless untill the film is removed by the braking action.

If you are covering the car make sure it's breathable and condensation can't get trapped underneath.

Check the antifreeze is all topped up and the right concentration.

If you are leaving in a locked garage then it's good to leave the windows down about half way to encourage airflow inside again to prevent any condensation. Also be usefulif there is a vent or air gap in the garage to get fresh air in. If you suspect any chance of damp then remove the carpets/mats and store indoors.

Lubricate the door locks (lock oil not wd40).

I would disconnect the battery (if you have got the radio codes) and store somewhere indoors where you know it won't freeze. No need for constant trickle charge as the shelf life of a battery is pretty long but an overnight maintainer charge every month wouldn't hurt. Put some vaseline on the terminals to protect them.

If you are feeling particulary pedantic then you can slacken the auxilary drive belts (anything other than the cam shaft belt) but I don't usually bother.

Oh, you can pull the wipers out to stop it getting affected by long term storage in the same position.

Lastly, I always find it useful to make a note of everything you've done and tape it to the steering wheel. That way when you come to take the car out of storage you're not going to get any surprises.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you have an Elise you may also want to unhook the roof, still leaving it attached, so the tension in the roof is around longer.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Id call around and see if any of the local shops store cars. Theres a local classic car shop near me that stores cars, bikes whatever in a heated garage. I believe he charges around $40-$50 month. Its obviously locked and pretty sure everything that goes in it is insured by him. Had a few friends store their cars there for the winter.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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excellent post even for those who already do these things !! should be sticky. well done !!
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You how you have doing things so long that you doubt yourself? Well I just wanted to confirm what I planned was correct and I picked up a couple of new ideas. Thanks again.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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ads green...nice post, I copied it into the Uberthread.
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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good for most cars:

Make sure heat is on recirc, close all interior vents: Keeps rodents out of your interior.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Exclamation

What about the YOKO tires in sub zero conditions. I'm in Montreal and it REEEAAAAALLLLLYYYYYYY gets cold here in the winter, the car is stored in a well vented place . Yokohama tires do not take temperature below the freezing point, they won't even ship those tires before the winter is over!. What will happend if they do freeze?
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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For the sixth winter in a row, my Elise has sabilizer in the fuel and the soft top removed. This is the second winter with a battery tender, the first four I just disconnected the battery. I keep her on a lift in the garage, which is heated so I don't have to worry about the tires getting too cold etc. Not had any problems letting her hibernate for six months of the year.
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Old 11-12-2009, 09:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadtZ View Post
hand the car up with jackstands

Quote:
Originally Posted by ads_green View Post
If not on jack stands


Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminus View Post
Leaving the car on jack-stands (and thus the A-arms with tires hanging), is not very good for a suspension. Modern radial tires aren't going to flat-spot in a few months, and any unevenness should roll out in a few miles.


NEVER store a car on jack stands (or on a two post lift) with the suspension drooping. It will damage your suspension bushings over time. There are lots of threads on this subject. Keep the weight of the car on the wheels. The tires may "flatspot" - probably not - but even if they do, they will go back to normal after a couple of miles of driving. Damage to the suspension bushings are a pain to fix as it requires complete disassembly of the suspension and press fitting new bushings in place. Not a fun job.
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Old 11-13-2009, 10:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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NEVER store a car on jack stands (or on a two post lift) with the suspension drooping. It will damage your suspension bushings over time. There are lots of threads on this subject. Keep the weight of the car on the wheels. The tires may "flatspot" - probably not - but even if they do, they will go back to normal after a couple of miles of driving. Damage to the suspension bushings are a pain to fix as it requires complete disassembly of the suspension and press fitting new bushings in place. Not a fun job.
Will the special bushings in the touring suspension get damaged if the car is left up on stands?
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Old 11-13-2009, 11:56 AM   #16 (permalink)
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NEVER store a car on jack stands (or on a two post lift) with the suspension drooping. It will damage your suspension bushings over time. There are lots of threads on this subject. Keep the weight of the car on the wheels. The tires may "flatspot" - probably not - but even if they do, they will go back to normal after a couple of miles of driving. Damage to the suspension bushings are a pain to fix as it requires complete disassembly of the suspension and press fitting new bushings in place. Not a fun job.
Thats why I said to remove the wheels. Supporting on jackstands with the wheels off will not damage anything with the suspension.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Throw a dryer sheet in the interior. It sounds strange but it keeps the mice away and leaves the interior smelling fresh.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Will the special bushings in the touring suspension get damaged if the car is left up on stands?
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thats why I said to remove the wheels. Supporting on jackstands with the wheels off will not damage anything with the suspension.
Having the wheels on or off has nothing to do with it.

If the car is supported off the ground with the suspension drooping (not in the normal ride height) then you can be damaging the bushings. If you support the car in the air by the hubs, then yes, you are correct.

But putting jack stands under the chassis and supporting the car will let the suspension droop.

Supporting the car by the suspension arms is not recommended (you could bend them and they are not designed to take a "point" load although you may get away with it. Additiionally, unless the car is supported by the hubs (as when the wheels are supporting it) there will be a slightly different position of the a-arms such that it won't be exactly at right height - enough to matter?
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