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Old 10-15-2010, 05:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Elise Thermostat Replacement

Has anyone here replaced the thermostat on their Elise? Do you need to drop the water pump or is there any other way to get to it? It seems nearly impossible to access.
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Old 10-15-2010, 06:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I've heard they like to fail. I've also heard it is the worst afternoon you'll spend working on the car

I think you have to remove the rear right wheel and well, move the alternator, drain the coolant, change the stat, and refill the coolant which is the worse part of all (air bubbles). 3 hours or so I think was the consensus.

Just a few posts before the search tzars chime in

Bad thermostat?
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Old 10-15-2010, 10:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. By the time I got back to read this reply I had figured it out. So I went ahead and changed the thermostat, filled and bled the system thouroughly. I'm still not getting any coolant flow out of the engine block towards the radiator. I hate to think its the water pump since the car has less than 20K on it. Any other ideas??
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Do you have the bleeder valves open? You may also want to try a pressure-tester. I haven't bled the coolant yet, honestly I've been a little afraid. Which coolant are you using? If you say anything with Dexcool, you may as well flush and start over

Changing the Coolant

That is the best answer I could find for coolant. How was the thermostat change?
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Old 10-16-2010, 07:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lugnut2683 View Post
Thanks for the info. By the time I got back to read this reply I had figured it out. So I went ahead and changed the thermostat, filled and bled the system thouroughly. I'm still not getting any coolant flow out of the engine block towards the radiator. I hate to think its the water pump since the car has less than 20K on it. Any other ideas??
how did you confirm there is no flow?
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I started the engine and let it run until the temp gauge was over 200. Neither the inlet or outlet pipe to the radiator was even warm to the touch. The temp just kept rising until I shut it off. Had both bleeder valves open and no coolant flow or air out of either.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like the thermostat didn't open? Maybe the car would work fine for short trips

I'm assuming you had coolant/distilled water in the tank (sorry, stupid question, had to ask). There is also a bleed valve near the engine as well, not sure if you need to open that too.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yup. I had both bleeders open. Even disconnected the hoses and filled them with coolant to get as much air out of the system as possible. Still no flow. Could the re-circulation pump have anything to do with it? It doesnt seem to be running either, no matter how hot it gets.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Not OEM

I hope you did not replace it with OEM.......use aftermarket....the center rubber seal is what fails.......use aftermarket without the rubber center!
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I hope you did not replace it with OEM.......use aftermarket....the center rubber seal is what fails.......use aftermarket without the rubber center!
Any recommendation on which aftermarket thermostate? I always liked the dealer one as Stant Thermostate don't seem to be built as well. But I guess I stand corrected.

On a different but simalar topic what's everyone's take on water pumps? ..factory or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which one?

http://www.billswebspace.com/EliseWaterPumpRR.pdf

I'm pretty old school so I always change the water pump, thermostate, and belts all at once as labor wise it more cost & time efficient. Also, they all only have a certain self/mileage life anyways. It's cheaper to change the parts compared to being stranded somewhere. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I recently had Synaptic3 replace my thermostat and belt. The waterpump is original at 84k miles.

I had similar symptoms where the car wouldn't come up to temperature or would drop in temp.







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Old 10-29-2010, 06:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My thermostat appears to be misbehaving. Maybe I'll just go to Synaptic3 as well so they can deal with the coolant flush at the same time.

Would still like to know if there's a recommend part to replace the stock with?
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I think mine is stuck open - it takes 20 minutes for the water temp to touch 170 degrees... Forever!
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Old 10-30-2010, 05:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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easy to do.. just pull the manifold off..
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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HELP!!!!!!

I am trying to replace the thermostat on my Elise. I have the right wheel off and liner out. I can't even feel where I think it is. From above I can barely touch the hose that I think goes to the thermostat.

Do I need to try to access through a combination of the wheel well and from below??

Do I need to move or disconnect anything when coming in from the wheel well?

I tried to take some photos with a small digital camera to give me a feeling for what I was trying to do, but couldn't even fit the camera in.

At first I thought Jay's comment on removing the intake was extreme, but maybe not. Anything to be careful of in doing that??? I'm a reasonable amateur mechanic, so that wouldn't spook me to do. Does it take a gasket or do you use sealant? If so, I'm going to be using Permatex 82194 on a gPAN i'm installing. Would that be OK?

Do you pull the water hose first or leave it connected to the housing?

Many thanks for any info,

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Old 03-02-2011, 09:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I had mine done for me but I believe they removed the alternator to have room to access the thermostat.

The guy that did it let me put the thermostat in myself as I had been teasing that I could probably could have done the replacement on my own. Boy was I humbled. I couldn't see anything and did it completely by feel. When he checked my work I looked down from the engine bay and could barely see his fingertips.

I bought a Toyota thermostat and a new replacement gasket. I know some have talked about using an aftermarket thermostat but I got 84k miles out of my original so hopefully I'll get that out of the replacement.

Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I had mine done for me but I believe they removed the alternator to have room to access the thermostat.

The guy that did it let me put the thermostat in myself as I had been teasing that I could probably could have done the replacement on my own. Boy was I humbled. I couldn't see anything and did it completely by feel. When he checked my work I looked down from the engine bay and could barely see his fingertips.

I bought a Toyota thermostat and a new replacement gasket. I know some have talked about using an aftermarket thermostat but I got 84k miles out of my original so hopefully I'll get that out of the replacement.

Good luck and keep us posted!
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm getting tempted to have it done. Some of these jobs are just not worth the brain damage.

In another thread, there seems to be some possible linkage to Water Wetter not being compatible with the rubber in the stock unit. I live in Palm Springs and run it in one of my bikes, so thought it would be good insurance in the Lotus. Maybe not!!

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Old 03-27-2011, 03:52 AM   #18 (permalink)
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What a Pain in the A$$

I recently changed my coolant. (I didn't check the forum) I added Amsoil Coolant Boost .

So my thermostat rubber seal fails within a month of adding the Coolant boost.

I go get a Stant 14078 thermostat (it was the only one they had). This was the lowest cost/grade. It was the one without a rubber seal and jiggle pin. The premium ones had the rubber seals in the picture.

I take the wheel, liner, belt, alternator off. I install the 14078 Stant.

sitting in the drive car heats up and thermostat appears to be working. I start driving and the temperature starts drops just like the bad OEM one. Cruising at highway speeds the car would drop below 150 deg F. The car wouldn't produce much heat for the cabin either.

I got the oem one from toyota. Drained all the coolant. Changed the thermosat. The car is back up and running strong again. It was low 30's yesterday and the car ran at 183deg F, a beautiful thing.

Here are a few pointers for the change.
DO NOT USE STANT 14078 THERMOSTAT!!!!!!!!!
1. Disconnect the alternator! Pull it toward the frame and set it on the frame, so you can get your arm under it.
2. You can see the thermostat housing and nuts through the side intake and from above with the alternator removed.
3. I found it easier the second time to move the alternator to get to the nuts. The top nut with arm above the alternator.
4. Alternator bolts are 12mm and 14mm.
5. Thermostat housing nuts are 10mm.
6. You have to remove either the engine access panel or the diffuser to do the work. You don't have to remove both. I left the engine access panel on (the second time).
7. There is one electrical connector I needed to unplug. The rachet head was too thick.
8. You do get better with practice.

Last edited by 748mono; 03-27-2011 at 03:59 AM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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748mono, do you have a link or part number for the Toyota OEM thermostat? Much appreciated!!
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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i have a brand new thermostat and gasket if you want to buy it.. ^^^^^^^^^^
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