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Old 01-07-2013, 07:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TRD Thermostat, Need Opinions?

I'm planning to change my thermostat and thinking about buying the TRD
170F thermostat since I have recently installed NA stock ecu flashed by Charlie X where the the 2nd cam switchover is @5700rpms. Let me know, what you guys think. Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I bought the 170*F generic one at Autozone (2001 Toyota Celica GTS). I think it was just the Stant brand. If its below about 50 or so it gets down to about 172 at highway speed, but generally it sits around 179 to low 180's.

On hot Texas days with the A/C on though your still going to see 200+.
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Why would you want a 170 degree thermostat? Do you know what your oil temps are with that thermostat?

Did you use a 2001 or 2003 Celica part? (In another thread you stated 2003). Is that a fail-open thermostat?

My thermostat is stuck open and I am going to replace that and my leaking overflow tank.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I can chime in, but I only have more questions...

I installed the TRD 170F thermostat with the 3pass radiator and pull fans. My car is achieving temp stasis at 176F. So evidently it is running cooler !

I assume it will creep up back towards the 190F it used to sit at once I have the tune and associated kit installed next week.

I honestly don't know if there is any advantage to running a bit cooler or not ? I did research whilst it was all being put in place. I still don't know if better.

As I said above, my assumption is once the 2.9 pulley, fuel pump, fuel injectors are installed with the tune I assume it will creep back up a bit ? will see
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've never tuned a Lotus but on other vehicles running much cooler than stock screws with the ECM, often can make it run like poo or lower power. I would talk to whoever did the tuning on your car before just throwing one in.

I can see putting in a cooler unit if you live in the butthole of the US (Texas) and it's 100* out though.
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I went with the 180 autozone one because it's all metal. The oem toyota one was starting the infamous plastic failure dance.
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i'm sorry but i kinda wanna revive this thread lol...

i have purchased a TRD Thermostat with Toyota Part Number 16340-SP050; Anybody knows if this is a 160F, 170F, or 180F?
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You have Google there??

A quick click shows that to be a 71C/160F unit.

That may well be too cold for correct oil temps.

(I blocked off one of two oil coolers yrs ago, on a guess)
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Should I install this baby? It gets pretty hot here on summer days not to mention in traffic tho...?


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Old 11-07-2014, 01:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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And what coolant temps do you see; on road and in traffic?
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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re: Thermostat

NO. Install the thermostat the engine and the oil was designed for by the manufacturer.

This has been discussed to death in other threads on this forum.

The thermostat controls the engine temperature up to the capacity of the cooling system. Once that capacity is exceeded, the thermostat will go wide open and the water temperature will rise, till the amount of heat dissipated = the amount of heat put into the system by the motor (this is proportional to the temperature difference between ambient and coolant), or till it boils over.

Thermostat will control the temperature at higher speed cruise. This is where there is little heat generated by the engine and there is enough airflow through the rad. At idle or slower speeds there is not enough airflow, so the fan attempts to control the temperature. At WOT there is too much heat generated by the engine. At constant WOT under load the stock system would boil over in 10 to 15 minutes independent of the thermostat (the starting point maybe lower, so there maybe a difference of a few seconds).

So why use a thermostat at all!?! Well, I do not in my race car(s).

In a stock car, the thermostat makes sure that the engine is running warm enough during most of the operation. This is necessary because the oil and engine is designed to run in a narrow temperature band. Too cold and the oil is too thick, clearances are too loose and the metal experiences too much thermal stress (from cold to hot combustion). Too hot and the oil is too thin, tolerances too tight and metal too soft....

Therefore, run stock (rated) thermostat and manufacturer's recommended oil grade. They are all designed to work together!

Therefore, why not run it in a race car? Most people do. I try to get away without by running the car hard (consistent load) during the summer (consistent ambient temperature). Now, during the last track days and cold (50F) mornings, if I do not put enough tape on the grill (NASCAR temperature control method), my water temperatures start dropping on the straights (at full power). I hurry back into the pits when my water hits 150F, much faster, then if it starts heading over 200F. I have a few laps till it hits 240 or more to boil. Engine damage from cold oil and water is much more immediate!

I would throw that thermostat out, unless you are planning to rebuild the engine to run at 160F with new tolerances and test which oil grade is good at that temperature.


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Originally Posted by freshyip View Post
Should I install this baby? It gets pretty hot here on summer days not to mention in traffic tho...?


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Old 11-07-2014, 09:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the Writeup. But it does get a bit hot here, the car will reach 85C once getting off the freeways, and will climb all the way up go 97C pretty quick in a traffic jam.

So still no need to install this thermostat for engine durability issue ? I use the Exige daily, and just thought this was a good reliability upgrade?


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Old 11-07-2014, 09:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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re: Thermostat

Thermostat will not fix any of these problems.

It has absolutely nothing to do with idling in traffic jam. (160F is 71C, 180F is 77C, so thermostat is fully open!) Get a bigger/better fan and position it right i.e. after the rad not in front. Bigger rad will help. (3 pass is better than 1 pass).

Getting off the highway is the same as above. Thermostat is fully open after a short period of time (heat soak). Lower thermostat will give you a few more seconds before it heat soaks. Only a bigger/better rad will help.

Unfortunately, the thermostat does not influence how cool the engine runs when it is hot. It influences how warm it will stay when it is cold. Not what you need.

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Originally Posted by freshyip View Post
Thanks for the Writeup. But it does get a bit hot here, the car will reach 85C once getting off the freeways, and will climb all the way up go 97C pretty quick in a traffic jam.

So still no need to install this thermostat for engine durability issue ? I use the Exige daily, and just thought this was a good reliability upgrade?


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Old 11-07-2014, 09:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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HAHHAHAHAHAHAH okokokokok

This other thread on spyderchat I found just now says almost the same thing about these thermostats. So just curious, why did they make these anyways?? Do these so-called "low temperature thermostat" serve any purpose @ all????


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Old 11-07-2014, 10:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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do you have an owners manual?

mine says:

Coolant Temperature Display

The engine coolant temperature will be displayed at the bottom
right hand corner of the panel as soon as the temperature
reaches 162F. The running temperature will fluctuate a certain
amount as the operating conditions change, and during
periods of idling or in heavy traffic, the temperature may rise to
over 212F, with the cooling fans switching on at half speed at
approximately 208F and at full speed at approximately 217F.
The temperature display will flash at temperatures over 226F
to prompt closer monitoring by the driver of high temperatures.
The pressurised cooling system has a boiling point of over 248F.
If the temperature approaches this level then the driver should
be concerned. If this should occur, allow the engine to idle for a
few minutes whilst monitoring the temperature, and if it continues
to rise, switch off and seek qualified assistance.
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:32 AM   #16 (permalink)
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People run cooler thermostats because it can reduce chance of predetonation and cooler air is denser air has more power. Lower thermostats more commonly used on high HP motors.
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:38 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Therefore, run stock (rated) thermostat and manufacturer's recommended oil grade. They are all designed to work together!
Just to be clear...the engine manufacturer (Toyota) recommends using 5W-30 oil in this engine... what oil are you running in your engine?
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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i thought it 5-40 was recommended oil for Elise
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:02 AM   #19 (permalink)
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i thought it 5-40 was recommended oil for Elise
Lotus said that...not Toyota. The 5W-30 has much better wear properties than 5W-40... Ever wonder why Lotus cars have cam wiping problems and other cars with the same 2ZZ do not?
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:51 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by <@@> View Post
The 5W-30 has much better wear properties than 5W-40...
Documentation on this?
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