After looking over the data, my peak temp was actually 158 on track. The engine loves to run at those temps. That's pretty impressive since my average RPM is now close to 8000rpms on the track with the sequential box
Most of the data I see from folks shows that they're not running on the stat. If you're not running on the stat, then your cooling system isn't up to the task.
Info on my cooling system is in the "rides" section of boefab.com. But here are the basics with some pics.
- Big single pass radiator. Rad and mounting supplied by Brent and then I converted to single pass. Nice bit of kit, but not for the novice installer. Quite a large amount of work for this beast. The single pass Elise Parts rad is PnP and a pretty easy installation and a MUCH better fit for most DIYers, IMO.
-Removed impeller from mechanical pump to disable it. The pump is just an idler pulley now.
-Remove Stat all together
-Add a 30gph DaviesCraig electric water pump up front as seen in pics
-Block off heater lines at motor.
-Block off the "u-bend" bypass at the block (the stainless steel heater transfer pipe was removed with the heater block-off plate)
-Remove AC and AC Core (I decided a long time ago that if it was too hot to drive the car with the top off then, there's no point in driving the car--- not that I drive this car on the street much anymore anyway though! Same rule applies on the street cars though
-Single 8" puller fan (you don't need much of fan to keep temps reasonable in the pits with this much cooling).
You end up with VERY simple cooling system that's very easy to service and VERY efficient. You also pick up some power by eliminating the drag from the mechanical water pump and you totally eliminate pump cavitation from the variable RPMs of the mechanical pump...
Anyone can implement all or part of the above and get GREAT cooling efficiency gains. My suggestion is to start with the AC core and fans. Get the fans top-side and if you're going to keep the AC--straighted the AC core fins (or replace AC core from fan damage). As I mentioned earlier, you have to take a fair bit of the front end apart to do this. Might as well replace the radiator when you're in there and use high volume single pass when in there to help the stock pump from cavitating any worse than it already does among increaing coolant volume as well.
You might also notice that I have removed the pods for the oil coolers since the oil cooler is now moved out back where it should be. Again, MUCH MUCH easier service on the front end. I can have the clam off the front in about 20 minutes with no fancy fasteners. Just better access to the OE fasteners with parts removed/relocated.
Here are some pics (pardon the mess. Some cell pics from the initial installation...)