Custom oil cooler setup questions/suggestions

[Illumiloti]

Originally Posted by pistolpete

Any advise on what to do with air flow after I remove the front coolers? Block the inlets? Mostly street car.

I have the ProAlloy water to air intercooler. The heat exchanger for that is stacked with the radiator and a c condenser causing overheating issues on track.
If I do this mod, could I use the old oil coolers (or other heat exchangers in the inlets) for the ProAlloy and lose the one in the stack?

[Illumiloti]

Can the oil coolers, based on their construction, even be functional as water heat exchangers?

[Jack FFR1846]

Originally Posted by Illumiloti

I have the ProAlloy water to air intercooler. The heat exchanger for that is stacked with the radiator and a c condenser causing overheating issues on track.
If I do this mod, could I use the old oil coolers (or other heat exchangers in the inlets) for the ProAlloy and lose the one in the stack?

I see no reason why not. I had thought about using the front oil cooler to bypass the heater during the summer. I'd still get the cooling effect without heating the AC air coming in the cabin. I haven't done this yet, but it's something I'm thinking about for the winter clam off time.

[holmz]

Originally Posted by Jack FFR1846

When everything is hunky dory, and you're simply looking for something better, this is great advice. You don't know that you've upgraded if you don't take data before and after.

However.....

When the lines are starting to leak, something has to be done....and fast.

Maybe fix what is broke.
New ends on the lines would sort that out, or new oil lines.

But you are also talking about changes and upgrades... Sometimes rushing in is not as prudent as a more reasoned approach.

[bean66]

Originally Posted by Lotusmotion

This is terrific information. I was planning to replace the stock oil cooler lines on my '06 Exige with one of the aftermarket kits, but this alternative makes too much sense to ignore. Frankly, I am not interested in the recall "solution" whatever it may be.

My cost / benefit analysis of this oil cooler mod:

Benefits:
- improved oil temperature operating range over the "too cool" OEM coolers;
- ability to change all of the oil versus half of it;
- four connector fittings versus six in the OEM twin coolers set-up;
- no need to ever burp the OEM oil lines 'cause they'll BE GONE;
- eliminate heat that radiates into the cabin through both sills;
- knowing the quality of the bits used and workmanship skill.

I liked these benefits but have a few questions, since I'm in the planning stages.

1. what is the correct oil temperature operating range? Any difference for Street vs Track?
2. How do you change the oil in the same set up? Is there an oil drain plug on the setrab somewhere?
3. How do you go about refilling? Seems to me that there would also need to be some way to refill without having to run the motor? So whats the process here?
4. regarding radiated heat. What about the radiator lines? Yes the oil lines do add some, but the radiator and heater core lines add heat as well.

Hopefully Phil can chime in on number 2 and 3.

[one11]

Thought I'd bring this thread back to see if anyone else has any pics of oil cooler mounting.
The ones posted are great, just looking for any other mounting bracket options. I'm not the best at fabricating...

[Exiged]

How's that swap coming?


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

[one11]

Still plugging along.
Been waiting for interior pieces from British Racing Group since July
After hearing of all of the nightmares with refilling coolant, decided to order up the tool to fill under vacuum. Other than that the oil cooler is the last on the list, which is why I was here trying to come up with a solution for mounting it. I tried BOE Fab and they weren't any help.
This has been the worst experience EVER for a car project!

[sprocket3]

Can't the front oil cooler be used for this? Has anyone done it that way?

[Drew09]

Originally Posted by sprocket3

Can't the front oil cooler be used for this? Has anyone done it that way?

Yes, the only reason it possibly couldn't would be the size. Not sure if it would be too big or not.

[sprocket3]

Is there a way to bypass the front loop without pulling the rear clam off? Can you get to the oil pipes from the underside of the car near the engine?

Just asking because i have the front clam off now and I don't really want to take on the full project right now, but If i could just bypass the loop and pull all the hardware out of the front this month that would be nice.

Our temps don't get real hot so I might not even need a cooler if I stay off the track. Have others just deleted the entire oil cooler with ok results?

[Apex_in_sno]

Originally Posted by sprocket3

Is there a way to bypass the front loop without pulling the rear clam off? Can you get to the oil pipes from the underside of the car near the engine?

Just asking because i have the front clam off now and I don't really want to take on the full project right now, but If i could just bypass the loop and pull all the hardware out of the front this month that would be nice.

Our temps don't get real hot so I might not even need a cooler if I stay off the track. Have others just deleted the entire oil cooler with ok results?

Yea, you can get to both hoses from the bottom, it wouldn't be any easier with the rear clam off anyways...

[one11]

Originally Posted by sprocket3

Can't the front oil cooler be used for this? Has anyone done it that way?

As BMW answered, yes it can.

I asked around with some people that were familiar with the honda K series engines, they flow a lot more oil than the toyota so there was an issue with pressure and flow for my set up. That is why I am running a single Setrab in the rear, to keep the lines short. It was either that or a laminar cooling device that uses coolant to cool the oil and I wasn't looking for that much extra work with plumbing

[sprocket3]

Thanks guys. Do you think at modest air temps (under 80) it would be safe to run the car without a front oil cooler?

I read a lot of the posts in this tread and it seems like they might run cold with the stock engine and cooler setup. I am changing out the radiator housing and it would be a perfect time to ditch the front cooler..

[one11]

I've read that it should be fine without the front coolers as long as you never intend on tracking the car.
If you only have 1 cooler I personally think I'd just leave it. If you have 2, Sector111 sells a kit to convert it to 1 if you are worried about the oil staying too cold.
These cars are so fun to drive fast I wouldn't get rid of it in case the time comes to put your foot into it for more than just a few seconds. Overheating the oil isn't good for any engine.

[sprocket3]

Does anyone have a source for the TRD oil/water sandwhich plate? I pulled out the oil cooler and placed an order for a ProRad today. I think for my once a year track event that would cover me just fine with the ProRad and TRD in Oregon temps.

[darkSol]

Originally Posted by darkSol

From various other posts on here it's been determined that the stock oil filter sandwich, all 27 feet of oil line, both front oil coolers and hardware weighs 17.7 lbs...

From the Elise manual... Engine oil refill inc. filter: 4.7 U.S. qt.
(add 3.7 U.S. qt if front mounted oil coolers are drained)

Google says one qt of oil weighs 1.8 lbs. so.... (3.7 * 1.8 = 6.7 lbs)U.

That's a total of 24.4 lbs of savings!

Well I actually did this yesterday and the net change was 23.79 lbs., including all the oil I could capture.

I removed the entire oil cooler / line system, including brackets, hoses, coolers and sandwich... Without taking off the front clam!
Down to 1762 lbs. with no top and no gas!


I had to share

[RichardNHCooper]

Originally Posted by darkSol

Well I actually did this yesterday and the net change was 23.79 lbs., including all the oil I could capture.

I removed the entire oil cooler / line system, including brackets, hoses, coolers and sandwich... Without taking off the front clam!
Down to 1762 lbs. with no top and no gas!


I had to share

Hi David I am starting on the weight reduction program. Just pulled 8kg of self installed Dynamat this weekend (I put this in about 4 years ago). What is your new oil cooling setup? I am also running Phils Rev 400.

[Alek]

Amazing, I'm going to pull out the lines / coolers later this month!

Originally Posted by darkSol

Well I actually did this yesterday and the net change was 23.79 lbs., including all the oil I could capture.

I removed the entire oil cooler / line system, including brackets, hoses, coolers and sandwich... Without taking off the front clam!
Down to 1762 lbs. with no top and no gas!


I had to share

[darkSol]

No additional cooling system yet - but I'm not going on the track until later this Spring.

I'll be doing BOE's rear mounted Setrab system. Add a 1/2 dozen lbs. back for insurance.

Certainly was nice driving around this morning knowing all the oil in my engine was contained within the head, block and pan. It was like driving a timebomb around before.