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Old 08-29-2010, 01:25 PM   #81 (permalink)
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From your description, it ONLY seems, that you have a defective CDL module.
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Originally Posted by jmbuch99 View Post
I have the same problem. Fob will lock my doors but not unlock. I have been messing around with chargers, etc. for several days now. I should have come here first.

Has anyone replaced the CDL and NOT fixed the problem?

This site is great!! Thanks to all who posted the great information on fixing this problem!!!!!
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:10 AM   #82 (permalink)
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I would have been in trouble if it weren't for these guys. Replacing the CDL is easy when you do it thru the start button panel, and the problem is solved.
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:50 PM   #83 (permalink)
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A few weeks ago my doors refused to lock. Since I've seen this thread before, I immediately knew it was the CDL. My personality defects (cheap, curious, and false belief that I can fix anything) drove me to figure out what was wrong with the CDL.

Finding the problem was easy, it only took a few minutes with a multimeter. There are two relays in the CDL that form an H-bridge to provide power and ground to the door lock motors. The relays normally connect ground to both poles of the motor. When either relay is activated it will provide power to one of the poles, allowing the circuit to lock or unlock the doors. On my CDL one of the relays had failed with an open coil. I suspect this is the common failure on all CDL's, since the rest of the circuit is solid-state it would be relatively unlikely to fail. Depending on which relay fails, you may be able to lock or unlock, but not both.

Finding a replacement relay (actually two, replacing one is silly since the other is likely on its deathbed anyway!) was not so easy. There aren't many relay manufactures left, and the one in the CDL is slightly odd. Neither Digikey, Newark, nor Mouser had anything. After some digging I found a Tyco part that matched and was able to request 2 samples. They had to come from Germany, so it took a few weeks. Changing the relays out wasn't bad (helps to have access to a solder rework station) except the conformal coating that has to be broken loose to free the old relays from the board.

Here are relay manufacturers and part numbers:
TYH HG41M 012-Z1 (what was originally on the board)
Tyco V23072C1061A303 (what I used)
Wanjia WJ201-1C-12 (should work)

For $0 and a little time I now have a fully functional CDL again!
Just for reference and the sake of immortalizing this bit of information on the internet - did you happen to call and price something like this through the Lotus dealership in Memphis or Atlanta? (in case something like this happens to mine though, I'm getting your help! )
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:44 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Finally Did It...

...using Tyger's excellently documented procedure. (I know, it's been 3 months, but I've been retired for 10 years now and have a finely honed habit of sloth I hate to tamper with).

Anyway, I'll add some comments: The mass of foam you see on removing the starter/light panel seems in my case to have been glued to the front bulkhead. Working and wiggling it only caused me to lacerate my hands on the mini-punji sticks all auto manufacturers like to install in cramped areas. I wonder how many man-hours they spend getting them sharpened so perfectly? Anyway, a leather work glove on my medium sized hands would fit in there, but to no avail--it wasn't coming out. Finally, I resorted to the long-handled plyers. This resulted in pieces being ripped out. At some point I was able to disconnect the plug, hoping that might help. It didn't. The plug, by the by, has clips at the ends which lock the plug in. Lack of mechanical advantage means squeezing the sides has no effect. Prying at the clips with a small screwdriver might help. But work at it and the plug will come out. I could then plug in the new module to make sure that would fix the problem. It did. I finally destructively removed enough foam to get to the screws. Not much overhead space so the screwdriver has to be short. Not much space between screw and CDL body so the grip must be small in diameter. I finally used a little 1/4" drive socket handle with a 1/4" socket with a phillips screwdriver bit in that. Another suggestion--wad up a paper towel and stuff it into the hole on the left as you look in. Anything that falls in there winds up in the suburbs of Shanghai.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:13 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Blown fuse kills door locks/immobilizer

I inadvertently set off the alarm returning to my Elise tonight. After listening it honk for a while, it finally quieted down but refused to unlock the doors. Having read all these horror stories, I knew I was in trouble and could not get in the car, let alone start it.

But !! i had stashed a spare 2032 coin battery in the trunk just-in-case the remote died.

Inserted new battery into remote fob... no luck

Called wife for spare key and jumper cable. Maybe the car battery or the remote were dead. Wife comes to rescue.

No luck with second remote nor jumper cable.

Called for flatbed tow. Waited 1.5 hours in dark

Tow truck arrives and hooks up cables to battery. Still no luck.

Tow driver jimmies open the door lock just as I figure out that maybe the alarm was dead because of blown fuse. Fortunately, Lotus toolkit has allen key to open front panel. Alarm fuse #11 is blown! There are spare fuses in the center row of the fuse block...

Car starts!! 3 hours killed over a blown fuse

I don't know if I could have gotten into the car without the tow operator's jimmy because it didn't seem to unlock after swapping fuses but everything is copacetic now.

So -- in your lockable trunk, which needs no electricity to open -- carry
1) spare 2032 remote battery
2) allen key to open fuse panel
3) maybe some crude tool to jimmy the door lock
4) alarm code and instructions to re-program and re-synch

Argghhh. And it's not even Lucas Electricals.
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Old 06-16-2011, 03:23 PM   #86 (permalink)
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anyone know the best price for the cdl module
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:55 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Thank you all. Had the Locking problem on the '06 Elise today. Strange as it was, I somehow knew the answer was on Lotus Talk.... About to order the CDL, and although I'm bummed about the close to $100 price, I'm happy that I'l be able to do this one at home!
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:34 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Does anyone have the SKU for this part at Lotusgarage? I search CDL and nothing ciomes up thats just under 100.00.

Thks
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:39 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Also, can the doors be unlocked manually with the key? Its certainly not an intuitive thing. Currently stuck at work.

Thks
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:04 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Great thread, I my car just started having the same prob but luckily in the unlocked position. Thanks for the info guys!
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:38 AM   #91 (permalink)
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CDL issue

Hey guys mine just started doing this yesterday on my (B-Day) Door locks don't go down. But nobody made mention of the alarm? I can open the doors after I alarm it since the CDL didn't lock the car, and the alarm just makes a continous high pitch noise that it makes when you alarm it. The whaling alarm isn't going off, and if you close the door the noise stops. Also if you wave your hand in front of microwave sensor the high pitch noise sounds but stops after a couple seconds after waving your hand.
Nobody made mention of this issue with the CDL issue, read manual, no answer, is this weird?
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:37 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Devil View Post
Hey guys mine just started doing this yesterday on my (B-Day) Door locks don't go down. But nobody made mention of the alarm? I can open the doors after I alarm it since the CDL didn't lock the car, and the alarm just makes a continous high pitch noise that it makes when you alarm it. The whaling alarm isn't going off, and if you close the door the noise stops. Also if you wave your hand in front of microwave sensor the high pitch noise sounds but stops after a couple seconds after waving your hand.
Nobody made mention of this issue with the CDL issue, read manual, no answer, is this weird?
You alarm observations have nothing to do with the CDL. After arming the alarm it does not become effective for 45 seconds, hence the long tone.
Michael
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:54 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Mine has gone as well. Is there a way to bypass he CDL? By bypass I mean use the fob to arm the alarm, and use the key to unlock the doors?

I hate to junk what would happen if I get locked out with e roof on.

I would rather just lock the car manually.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:40 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Would I b crazy to to say just pull the fuse for the power locks?


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Old 09-21-2012, 09:43 AM   #95 (permalink)
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Pull fuse F22. Just note that the inertia switch which activates the unlocking in the event of a collision will no longer work.
Michael
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:41 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Pull fuse F22. Just note that the inertia switch which activates the unlocking in the event of a collision will no longer work.
Michael
Not worried about the inertia switch, but I am worried about being locked out.

Should I pull the locks up, then pull fuse f22? Right now, with fuse in, the key does nothing.

Will this allow the key to lock and unlock the doors? Will this prevent the cdl from locking the car, or from rendering the key useless

Nothing else to it?

If so , I am suprised more people dont opt for this, it is simple to lock- unlock manually, and being locked out by the cdl sucks.

On a separate but related note, how hard is it to disable the immobilizer/alarm entirely?
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:49 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dukenyc View Post
No worried about the inertia switch, but I am worried about being locked out.

Should I pull the locks up, then pull fuse f22?

Will this allow the key to lock and unlock the doors, and prevent the cdl from locking the car, and from preventing the key form working?

Nothing else top it? If so , I am suprised more people dont opt for this, it is simple to lock unlock manually, and being locked out by the cdl sucks.

How hard is it to disable the immobilizer/alarm entirely?
Pulling fuse F22 simply deactivates the CDL. You can pull up the locks first if you wish. You need to pull the plug on the alarm ECU to deactivate. The immobilizer has to be bypassed by joining a couple of wires together.
Michael
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:30 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Easy fix, hard to find part

I had this issue with my Elise. In my case, I could lock but not unlock. Luckily, I came here and found the solution despite the dealer saying I had to bring it in. I removed the guts of the CDL as described by Wicked in post 65. Then I tried to find the relays as described by 111Geek in post 79. I couldn't get anyone to send me free samples as Geek did, and couldn't find anyone that even had any in stock. I finally had to backorder some from Allied Electronics. I ordered and received the tyco part# V23072C1061A303. I replaced both relays and reinstalled the guts back into the enclosure. Voila! It works just fine. The hardest part was desoldering the old relays and getting them off from the conformal coating.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:37 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Door Locks not working properly.

I'm new to lotus (waited some I fell in love with the engineering in college in the 90's) having just bought an 05 Elise.

I had a problem like this. Turned out my battery lugs were loose!! Wasn't getting enough voltage to doors to unlock or start the car but could lock. Tightened lugs and all was good! May try that as it is unlikely but simple fix.


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Old 03-05-2013, 06:20 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Alarm and door lock problem

So I have the following problem, hope you guys can help. I locked my car with the fob. The alarm went off. When I turned and went back to the car I found I had left the door open. I could not get the alarm to go off. Tried the fob buttons with the door open and closed and the alarm would not go off. Finally, I started the engine and that stopped the alarm. However, now I cannot lock or unlock my doors with the fob. If I am in the car I can lock/unlock the doors with CDL switch, so it and the actual lock mechanism are working.
Any ideas?
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