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Old 11-12-2012, 07:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Help...my 260 wont start

Hi

i am a cup 260 2009 owner and my car few days ago refuse to start !!

the car was parked for 2 days then i went to start it i open ignition i heard the fuel pump priming i push the start button then all i hear is CLICK !!! .

then the alarm sounded weird it gives 2 beeps constantly and that's it .

i thought its the battery so i went ahead and replaced it but the problem remain .

i think its the immobilizer but i have no idea how to fix it , pls if anyone had a similar issue please fill me in .
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If the click you hear is from the engine compartment, then it is likely that your starter solenoid is actuating but not enabling the starter assembly to crank. if that is the case then a new starter might be called for. As for the funny sound the alarm makes, ???
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are you sure the new battery is charged? Check all the battery connections including the cable adapters. If the starter is clicking, I does not sound like an immobilizer problem.
Michael
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If the click you hear is from the engine compartment, then it is likely that your starter solenoid is actuating but not enabling the starter assembly to crank. if that is the case then a new starter might be called for. As for the funny sound the alarm makes, ???
i jump start the car and it worked fine and i did check the starter it was ok strange car thats is .

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Are you sure the new battery is charged? Check all the battery connections including the cable adapters. If the starter is clicking, I does not sound like an immobilizer problem.
Michael
yes sir i did check the battery connections and i bought a brand new battery and nothing changed , i suspect its immobilizer cuz of the funny alarm noise that it makes the beeps is different than before , when i jump start the car it work fine which is wired everything work fine except when i push start button nothing happen only a CLICK and that's it . any idea ??
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i jump start the car and it worked fine and i did check the starter it was ok strange car thats is .



yes sir i did check the battery connections and i bought a brand new battery and nothing changed , i suspect its immobilizer cuz of the funny alarm noise that it makes the beeps is different than before , when i jump start the car it work fine which is wired everything work fine except when i push start button nothing happen only a CLICK and that's it . any idea ??
It is not the immobilizer because the fuel pump is working and the starter solenoid is getting power. I would first check the starter connections and then get it tested.
Michael
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I agree with Sir Lotus that it sounds more like a battery than immobilizer issue. The 09 CUP 260 has both fuel and electrical cut offs - I suspect both are in the on position.

Since the CUP 260 comes with a Odyssey PC680, given its unique AGM design, not all chargers (even float chargers) are compatible. If you replaced it with a PC680, you will want to make sure it is fully charged otherwise it will click just like you described. Odyssey and CTek offer a charger that is intended to bring the battery correctly back to full charge without damaging a cell.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Are you sure the beeping is coming from the alarm. I had a similar incident recently and it turned out to be a low battery signal from the garage door opener.
Michael
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It is not the immobilizer because the fuel pump is working and the starter solenoid is getting power. I would first check the starter connections and then get it tested.
Michael
i will recheck the starter again and i hope it work .
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I agree with Sir Lotus that it sounds more like a battery than immobilizer issue. The 09 CUP 260 has both fuel and electrical cut offs - I suspect both are in the on position.

Since the CUP 260 comes with a Odyssey PC680, given its unique AGM design, not all chargers (even float chargers) are compatible. If you replaced it with a PC680, you will want to make sure it is fully charged otherwise it will click just like you described. Odyssey and CTek offer a charger that is intended to bring the battery correctly back to full charge without damaging a cell.
i replace the pc680 bat with ACdelco for the second time now i had no problem at all first time but now i dont know what is the problem .
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Are you sure the beeping is coming from the alarm. I had a similar incident recently and it turned out to be a low battery signal from the garage door opener.
Michael
im dead sure its the car alarm cuz i set the alarm off my self to hear it beeps the funny way .
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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OK guys more update on the problem .

as sir lotus said now i know its not a immoblizer problem , as the tell tale light turn off after i push the yellow button withe ignition on and the pump work fine .

but here is what happen now ....

i checked the starter solenoid and wiring and its fine so what we did is ,we took a direct wire from the starter solenoid and wee hook it to the battery and the car amazingly starts ??? so now we know its not the alarm and the starter works good ,but is there is anything else we are missing here that could be the problem ?
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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OK guys more update on the problem .

as sir lotus said now i know its not a immoblizer problem , as the tell tale light turn off after i push the yellow button withe ignition on and the pump work fine .

but here is what happen now ....

i checked the starter solenoid and wiring and its fine so what we did is ,we took a direct wire from the starter solenoid and wee hook it to the battery and the car amazingly starts ??? so now we know its not the alarm and the starter works good ,but is there is anything else we are missing here that could be the problem ?

Sometimes gremlins are just gremlins. they are show up whenever. i know how this bothers you, not being able to find the issue. if you can replicate the situation constantly then you can start by-passing systems one at a time until
the symptoms disappear and narrow it down to the appropriate system causing your symptom.

do you have a manual to see what other systems are involve with the circuit, relays, segments of wiring, immobilizer, etc?
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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more update.....

now i was checking on the problem and i found out that i was not hearing the starter solenoid and it was just a shy click from the relay , i replace the relay problem remains ,so i checked all the fuses again when i was checking the fuses box in the engine i found 1 fuse broken ,i replace it then i turn the ignition on and guess what the fuel pump STOP working !!!!! . i think i got my car immobilized .

i have read here somewhere that i can jump the immobilizer by pulling 2 wires from a plug if true where is that plug located so i can shut the immobilizer forever .
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The immobilizer is behind the interior rear plastic bulkhead panel on the drivers side. The two wires on each end of the plug have to be spliced together on the car harness side and the plug, plugged back in.
Michael
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The immobilizer is behind the interior rear plastic bulkhead panel on the drivers side. The two wires on each end of the plug have to be spliced together on the car harness side and the plug, plugged back in.
Michael
thanks michael for the info ,one more question .

so correct me if i am wrong because my English is not perfect , so all i have to do is to pull out the 2 wires on the photo from the plug and from the other end as well and plug the cable back is that right ?

do you mean pull it out from those two plugs ? on the photo



i dont know if you can see the photo but here is the link for it if you cant see it .
its a short cable with two white plugs .

Radium Engineering - Blog - Lotus Fuel Surge Tank-Easier Installation

its the second picture

and if i do that will the car get back to normal and starts or there is something else need to be done ?

thank you again
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Last edited by aldosari; 11-20-2012 at 04:42 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by aldosari View Post
thanks michael for the info ,one more question .

so correct me if i am wrong because my English is not perfect , so all i have to do is to pull out the 2 wires on the photo from the plug and from the other end as well and plug the cable back is that right ?

and if i do that will the car get back to normal and starts or there is something else need to be done ?

thank you again
No need to pull the plug.
Cut the wires to pins1 & 6 ( 2 inches from the plug) on the car harness side and splice them together.
Do the same for 5 & 12.
If the fuel pump and starter do not function, the problem is elsewhere.
Michael
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:33 AM   #15 (permalink)
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No need to pull the plug.
Cut the wires to pins1 & 6 ( 2 inches from the plug) on the car harness side and splice them together.
Do the same for 5 & 12.
If the fuel pump and starter do not function, the problem is elsewhere.
Michael
michael please bear with me as i am trying to understand this .

i just could not figure what splice mean .

so i understand that i will cut wire 1&6 and 5&12 2 inches away from the plug then do you mean wrap them together with a tape or something and thats it ?

sorry i am becoming pain in the a** . but i really dont want to misunderstand the method and i will end up cutting things the wrong way .

thank you a million michael
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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michael please bear with me as i am trying to understand this .

i just could not figure what splice mean .

so i understand that i will cut wire 1&6 and 5&12 2 inches away from the plug then do you mean wrap them together with a tape or something and thats it ?

sorry i am becoming pain in the a** . but i really dont want to misunderstand the method and i will end up cutting things the wrong way .

thank you a million michael
No problem
After cutting, remove 1/2" of insulation from 1 & 6, join them together securely and insulate. Do the same for 5 & 12.
Michael
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:00 AM   #17 (permalink)
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No problem
After cutting, remove 1/2" of insulation from 1 & 6, join them together securely and insulate. Do the same for 5 & 12.
Michael
oh i see .

now i got it .

so after cutting 1&6 i will remove the insulation from each wire and put them together and tape them . and the same for 5&12 .

thank you michael , i will do that tonight and i hope i can put this matter to rest .
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:03 AM   #18 (permalink)
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oh i see .

now i got it .

so after cutting 1&6 i will remove the insulation from each wire and put them together and tape them . and the same for 5&12 .

thank you michael , i will do that tonight and i hope i can put this matter to rest .
I don't like tape, better is using heat shrink tubing or an automotive connector.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:44 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I don't like tape, better is using heat shrink tubing or an automotive connector.
i will try to look for that kind of connectors , but i can see all the car wires been taped up with black tape ??

am going to use one of these tapes that it usually been used on electrical wires . is there is any particular reason why i shouldn't ??
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:16 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Guys i couldn't locate the immobilizer in my car , dont know if the cup has one .

i just look behind the driver seat and there was nothing in that area just few cables going inside ,the cup is pretty much striped up but i dont know if there is anything behind the isolation .the cup has no bulkhead panel

look at the photo .
[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by aldosari; 11-21-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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