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Old 12-26-2012, 11:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
alp
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Thumbs up DIY Evora Exhaust Replacement with Pictures

Haven't seen a proper thread with pictures. Had the Evora sport exhaust (PN: LOTAC05504) for a while and finally the time to install it. For reference here is the sport exhaust:



PLEASE NOTE: I am not liable for your DIY. Do this at your own risk. Just take care of yourself when you work on an automobile.


Tools/Parts needed:

1. 10mm socket
2. 13mm socket
3. 15mm socket
4. 3/8" ratchet
5. 1/2" ratchet
6. 1/2" to 3/8" adapters, 3/8" extension, 1/2" extension as needed
7. WD-40 or lithium grease (spray type preferred)
8. Beer (AFTER TEST DRIVE PLEASE!!)


I have installed an exhaust on the exige and replacing the exhaust on the evora is just as straight forward. Though there are still some tricks to get the job done smoother.

1. The diffuser has to come off along with part of the engine tray. Now the diffuser has several hex bolts in 4mm and two in 5mm. Shown below of one 5mm and one 4mm bolt:



Other locations of 4mm bolts to be removed under the diffuser:



Both the 5mm pieces have to be removed but only certain 4mm bolts have to be removed. The reason is some of these 4mm bolts hold the rear grill above the diffuser along the edge. They have a locking nylon nut on the other side (as show) and there is no reason no remove these.



2. You will have to remove some of the 10mm bolts from the engine tray as shown so the diffuser can slide out with ease.




3. Once the diffuser is removed, you have a clear view of the OEM exhaust. I have labeled a few things in the picture. The "ANTI-ROLL BAR" label will be appearing in a lot of pictures below to orientate you during the process. Note the two diffuser hangers. These are two obstacles you have to overcome when removing the OEM exhaust due to the bulkiness.



4. Locate the clamp. Spray some WD-40 if needed to loosen the 15mm nut.



5. Locate the muffler can hanger and resonator hanger. You have to remove these two with a 10mm bolt and a nut on the other side.





Afterwhich, slide out the muffler can hanger (pry it open to facilitate this process if needed). The resonator hanger may "hang loose".




6. Now, let's focus on the exhaust side hangers where the rubber bushings are. They are located on the left and right side of the exhaust. The trick here is to loosen the bolts but NOT remove the bracket. Mounting the new exhaust will be much easier. If it is difficult to wiggle the exhaust side hangers out of the bushings, you can remove ONE bolt and let the bracket pivot. Apply WD-40 if needed between the hanger and the bushing.



7. Can we remove the exhaust yet? Not yet. You can try but it is easier to loosen the anti-roll bar via the two brackets (one on each side) first and then wriggle the exhaust out. Locate the bracket as shown.



Once removed, push the anti-roll bar down and towards the front of the car. It will not drop all the way down to the ground.




8. Now you can remove the exhaust. Requires some patience and wriggling back and fro, left and right. Do not rush and yes it might fall flat on you. Anticipate every resulting wriggle you make during the process! Having a beer belly may help to cushion the impact...

Remember the diffuser hangers? Try not to bend them back to too much when removing the exhaust. I feel that they are quite filmsy and once you break them, it will be a pain replace them (fixed by a bolt near the top of the parking sensors).



9. The OEM exhaust is now removed. You can now curse at the exhaust. It may not retaliate but don't be too harsh.



10. Do not forget to remove the resonator hanger. Pry open a little to facilitate the removal.

11. Installing of a new exhaust is exactly the reversal of the steps above. Nothing exciting. Make sure all bolts go back to their exact and intended locations. The parts not needed are: the muffler can hanger, the resonator hanger and the bolt/nut that hold them together.

A new clamp should come with your new exhaust. Do not reuse the clamp on the OEM exhaust.



12. Enjoy your new exhaust. Drink beer ONLY after the test drive. My beer of choice for this round is Stone IPA. Available at most fine grocery stores or gastropubs.

Stone IPA
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Last edited by alp; 12-26-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice write up - close to my method of using the jigsaw and a blowtorch...


ok not really my method but it was fun dreaming of doing that to the stock exhaust
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Great write up, thank you! This is why this is such a cool furum and resource for all.

Now, tell us what you put in and how it sounds.

Also help me understand what I've got. Is it the same as you removed here?
"Sport (sharper throttle response, sport diffusor, titanium exhaust, drilled brakes, oil cooler) "
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Last edited by Lckitty; 12-26-2012 at 01:29 PM. Reason: mo thots
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting this. How long did this take you from start to fish, ballpark?
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Nice write up
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Always love to see such good write-ups. My dealer is of little or no help. So I'm quickly becoming a better mechanic than my Lotus tech.

stereo install diy Done (well part by me)
CAI Done
Oil change Done
power fold mirror Done
Front splitter Done
Rear difflow diffuser Done

All thanks to the guys on this forum. If I would have had my dealer do all these projects I would be $$$$$ in the hole and a good chance they would have been done wrong by my dealer (sorry have little confidenace in my dealer)
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Doing the exhaust on the Evora really is an ejoyably simple job. I've had mine on and off a few times, and it takes hardly any time at all. Good write up
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies! Hopefully this will help someone along down the road. I reckon the biggest hurdle is removing the stock piece. After that, working on a smaller exhaust or resonator delete is definitely much easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lckitty View Post
Great write up, thank you! This is why this is such a cool furum and resource for all.

Now, tell us what you put in and how it sounds.

Also help me understand what I've got. Is it the same as you removed here?
"Sport (sharper throttle response, sport diffusor, titanium exhaust, drilled brakes, oil cooler) "
Lc, not exactly understanding what you meant in bold. The one I removed is what comes with the car as standard. The one I installed is also by Lotus, officially listed as "LIGHTWEIGHT LEVEL 1 SPORTS EXHAUST STAINLESS STEEL" pn: LOTAC05504. I added a picture to the first post. It has blue tips. Adds a bit of a grumble to the car at idle, opens up to what I would call a gentleman's grunt at higher rpm. Good enough for me since my other car is way too loud.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ncitrdude View Post
Thanks for posting this. How long did this take you from start to fish, ballpark?
1.5hrs. Btw rhino ramps clearance ok.
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the photos. I don't suppose any performance gains with the Louts Sport Exhaust would be about the same as the Larini exhaust? I'm still a undecided. I imagine the gains would be with the 3rd cat/resonator delete.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Excellent write up. While the diffuser is off, sell it and replace it with a Difflow.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qu1Z View Post
Excellent write up. While the diffuser is off, sell it and replace it with a Difflow.
Hahaha. That's why I'm in a hurry to get an exhaust so I can put my Difflow on at the same time.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan Gibbs View Post
Thanks for the photos. I don't suppose any performance gains with the Louts Sport Exhaust would be about the same as the Larini exhaust? I'm still a undecided. I imagine the gains would be with the 3rd cat/resonator delete.
Performance might be mininal. Not a concern with me. I did think about the straight pipe but still prefer a quieter car. Post your findings if you get one.
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice write up Alp. Just a footnote for others; seperating the 3rd Cat from the Silencer in situ can be a pig, so it can be easier to remove both units at the point the 3rd Cat joins to the downpipe, then seperate them while off the car. Refitting is obviously the reverse - fit the 3rd Cat (or decat pipe) to the silencer first then fit them both together.

Also, I wasn't a big fan of the Blue tipped tailpipe finishers so i drilled out the rivets and swapped them for the original titanium tailpipe finishers (they are stainless steel if you don't have the sports pack) and rivetted those on. Looks standard but sounds sweet.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Great write up. Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Just ordered Larini S exhaust and resonator delete from S111. If weather is good this weekend, i'll hopefully be putting it in. Cannot wait...
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncitrdude View Post
Just ordered Larini S exhaust and resonator delete from S111. If weather is good this weekend, i'll hopefully be putting it in. Cannot wait...
Great write-up alp, especially by adding the photos for reference!

ncitrdude , since you have an S and ordered the Larini exhaust and delete pipe, I just wanted to mention that the install on your 2011 S might be slightly easier. You will see that the diffuser mount on the ’11 S is different, so there are no diffuser brackets that hang down in the way. That appears to help considerably with the process.

Also, since there are no diffuser brackets in the way, I found no need to remove the anti-roll bar. I was able to take the OEM muffler and resonator pipe out as one unit without a problem. They didn't clear by much but once unbolted, I had them out in about 30 seconds.

One thing to make sure is that if you purchased a valved system from Larini, is that you use the OEM vacuum line closest to the muffler and onto the valve nipple as the OEM vacuum hose is more heat resistant then the Larini supplied one. Also, make sure you add a head wrap/sleeve to the vacuum line. I added a 700 degree contact heat sleeve but will be adding another one over it (in essence doubling it up) this weekend after I heard one hose melted.

When doing mine, I noticed my ‘11 S OEM vacuum hose did not have any heat shield on it, but the pictures I’ve seen of the ’12 S, it looks like the factory installs it now.

Good luck with the install. It was fun to do
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Interesting, anything that makes the install easier is A-OK in my book, as this will be the first real work i've done on the car (any car, for that matter).

I ended up getting the non-valved version bc it seems like a lot of people mentioned they hear little to no difference between the sport/non-sport settings on their valved exhausts. I also felt like it was one less thing to break.

My plan (and feel free to pipe in if you think this is not the wisest course of action) was to leave the vacuum line in place but seal off the ends and ziptie the disconnected end somewhere so that it isn't dangling. That way if (god forbid) i ever sold the car, the next owner could return it to bone stock if they so chose without having to reroute the vacuum line through the cramped engine bay. I've already done this on the engine-end of the vacuum line, and will take care of the exhaust end when I put in the Larini.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Arggghh. Sector111 won't have the resonator delete for 4-6 weeks. So much for installing this weekend.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:47 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I feel your pain. It took about 8 weeks from when I ordered mine until my Larini came in. But it was worth the wait!

As far as your plan to plug and wire tie the vacuum line in place- I don't see that as an issue as long as it is secure
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Finally installed by larine today after months of it sitting in a box, but then my hanger bushings only came in this week. Again thank you for this write up, as I used the lift at my friends tire shop after hours, I had to hall in all my own tools and this helped my confirm I had all I needed. Some differences with eth S model and also some more with the MY12 , actually I did not need the 4mm hex as the diffusor support bar in the back. I also brought lots of wire ties and heat shielding to cover the vacuum line and added more protection to my O2 lines that were moved in the prior header install.

I must say with the MY12 Cat flange orientation good luck taking that joint apart, one nut is easy, the other, I never did get off a socket will not fit, and standard wench is too short to break the hold even with hammering it. That was a set back as now I had to separate muffler and Cat in situ, ha no room to twist and turn it I drop ARB down but really needed it removed but the link bolts don't undo only turn in place. to again some prying and hammering and pen oil and after a hour got it loose. As Larini is much smaller and lighter it goes in quick however some alignment problems, the support arms seem to miss position it about a 1/2 inch to the passenger side. which then means a fight to pry it back to center to get the hanger bolts in it seems to be miss position, only trouble nothing to pry against in that direction so again the body hammer and a block of wood.

Results, it is louder and always noticeable inside the car windows up or down, sport on or off in fact inside I cannot tell a change in tone, however I must say despite being louder than expected, remember my car has open intact, headers and free flow Cat normal conversation can be held inside the car in Sport mode. Now from standing outside the car at idle, this Sport mode is DEEP and throaty just the way a car should sound. Non-sport is also throatier than stock rear can but higher pitch than either sport or stock. The other think when you pull into a friend’s driveway, they know you have arrived.

Bottom line after first 15 min of driving I was ready to go back to stock muffler (again remember I have exhaust sound due to headers) brick acceleration is load and overshadows my intake BOE intake scream (and that sounds like a jet trying to pass you). However after taking my friends wife for a joy ride and being able to hold a conversation it didn’t sound so bad and I love that idle.

Update: I autox'd the car the next day it sounds fine and everyone commented about the great exhaust note without me bringing it to their attention
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New to piston power, my track toys have Rotaries

Last edited by Julian73; 10-08-2013 at 09:11 PM.
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