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Old 11-19-2012, 04:11 AM   #81 (permalink)
KCZ
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Originally Posted by fasttoys View Post
Late June I replaced my head-unit with the new Alpine INE-S920HD.
I also replaced my head unit with the INE-S920HD. It's a vast improvement over the stock unit (even though it's not a Pioneer).
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:08 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Can I simply replce my stock sub woofer with a better one? Can someone post optimal settings without imprint? I have the -900wbt
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Old 11-24-2012, 05:01 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Can I simply replce my stock sub woofer with a better one? Can someone post optimal settings without imprint? I have the -900wbt
Just finished about 95% of my install . What a pain in the A, this is the hardest car I have ever worked on in my life & I have done some very large installs in my time. The good news I am getting to know this car very well and can help with any questions on how to pull the interior apart without breaking it. Your ? The factory sub is an 8 inch flat sub posted on this thread on page 3. If you replaced the Driver only and not the AMP the new sub would not get enough power & it would sound horrible. I know sub on the 2010/2011 Evora's are powered by a 2 channel 25X2 Alpine Amp. The factory RCA's that plug into the head unit go into a factory harness on the AMP side. So if you are adding an AMP you will need to run a new set of RCA''s. I recommend running two pairs just in case. One pair for the front and the other for the SUB. New head units have a L/R RCA for the Sub even though the sub is mono. The factory sub box has a hole in the back about the size of an IPhone. The passenger side panel that backs up to the sub box has an open cavity that creates a larger box.When you pull the rear fender liner you can reach behind a small opening and touch the back of the sub. So the cavity makes it more of a baffled free-airspace so I stand corrected. The rear passenger fender liner closes off the hole but in the end its a small thin liner and it rattles under low bass. Working on a resolution just pulled the sub and the rear pass-liner.

Last edited by fasttoys; 11-28-2012 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:34 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Great info! Any photos for us?
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:46 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I took about 100 pictures during the project. My only issue is the size of the picture when posting in this thread since I dont know how to make them smaller.
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:29 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Picture of the hole that the factory sub enclosure backs up too. Sorry could not shrink the picture.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:24 PM   #87 (permalink)
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So what's the verdict on not having sealed the enclosure?
My guy sealed mine....but the enclosure is too small to produce any real bass.
Does the panel space afford any bass? It can;t be a decent, rattle free enclosure. Did you add sound deadening to the body panel?

I have a ridiculous sub box in my backseat....would love to know if opening up my tiny sealed enclosure would provide reasonable bass output.
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:01 PM   #88 (permalink)
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So what's the verdict on not having sealed the enclosure?
My guy sealed mine....but the enclosure is too small to produce any real bass.
Does the panel space afford any bass? It can;t be a decent, rattle free enclosure. Did you add sound deadening to the body panel?

I have a ridiculous sub box in my backseat....would love to know if opening up my tiny sealed enclosure would provide reasonable bass output.

UPDATE 11/29/12
What size driver is in the sub box in your back seat? An 8 or a 10 inch?

I called JL Engineering during the install and they suggested leaving the port open and then closing it off to see what option is best. My Thoughts: When leaving the port open it had more vibrations and the sound was not tight, so I decided to close the enclosure. Another – about leaving the cavity open you have a free air system that vibrates the outer panel verse closing the sub box. The system sounds much better and I have a lot more power when needed. I know sound is subjective and what is heavy in bass for me could be not loud enough for you. One problem an 8 inch driver can only move so much air to deliver bass in this small cabin. I will fine tune the system this coming Saturday.

Last edited by fasttoys; 11-28-2012 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:29 PM   #89 (permalink)
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What size driver is in the sub box in your back seat? An 8 or a 10 inch?
It's a 10 inch box.

I think the sideways firing thing works against the 8" sub as well.
I guess the polarity becomes a moot point?
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:09 PM   #90 (permalink)
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It's a 10 inch box.

I think the sideways firing thing works against the 8" sub as well.
I guess the polarity becomes a moot point?
I do agree the side firing and the small cabin works againt the sub.

UPDATE: On 11/29/12 i change the sub to an enclosed box by covering the rear opening. I also covered the outer box with another layer of Dynamat sound deadening material. When I had the port open the vibrations to the outside panel was annoying. The bass is tighter and has a much better tone after enclosing the box. I wonder if the JL W3v3 8 driver hits lower than your current JL W1v2 8?. I am very happy with the bass it hits hard with the only - the rear panels need more dynomat to help control viberations. I should be done by Friday.

Last edited by fasttoys; 11-29-2012 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:59 AM   #91 (permalink)
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I'd like to do this but am unsure about what i actually need to seal / close. Any photos or guidance? Sounds simple enough.

Also, any particular pitfalls in getting into it / removal of trim etc. to look out for?
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:52 AM   #92 (permalink)
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I'd like to do this but am unsure about what i actually need to seal / close. Any photos or guidance? Sounds simple enough.

Also, any particular pitfalls in getting into it / removal of trim etc. to look out for?
The car is a pain in the A to take apart. Example: In order to get to the cross-overs in the front of the car you have to pull the side leather kick plate, glove box & surrounding leather panels . Even if you don’t replace the front speakers and you want them powered by an AMP you will need to use the factory crossovers. Running wires to the radio is much easier going through the driver side around the instrument cluster. When running them through the passenger side you have a passenger-air bag in the dash that will be in the way and you want to make sure the wires do not interfere with its operation. To do to the job correctly you will need a garage, proper tools, past experience and other transportation while your car is down. I spent about 70 hours replacing everything in the system + working out all vibrations with sound deadening material. This thread has many pictures with directions on how to pull panels and a video of a Seattle Audio shop walking through the entire system. Even though my system is complete I still have an annoying vibration from the sub touching the rear panel. I am still working on a resolution..

Last edited by fasttoys; 12-07-2012 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:58 AM   #93 (permalink)
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The rear factory Sub-Box needs the hole in the back covered to make it a sealed sub enclosure
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:53 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Finally finished with the complete system install after a week trying to resolve an annoying rattle behind the rear panel that cover the sub.D

Last edited by fasttoys; 12-07-2012 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:24 PM   #95 (permalink)
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What model# is the cheapy single-din Alpine unit in the 2011Evora? Thanks!

EDIT: Had installed a 2 din Kenwood unit.....Terrific!
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:55 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Finally finished with the complete system install after a week trying to resolve an annoying rattle behind the rear panel that cover the sub.D

Fasttoys,

Got any tips on getting to the front door speakers? I'm simply trying to swap them out, but I'm afraid to take the kid gloves off to get the panel off.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:04 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Fasttoys,

Got any tips on getting to the front door speakers? I'm simply trying to swap them out, but I'm afraid to take the kid gloves off to get the panel off.

My 2 cents. If you pull the door speakers you will need to change out the cross-overs. The door panels are easy unfortunately to get to the cross overs you will have to pull many panels off. + If you just change the door speakers it could sound worse than your current set-up. The Alpine drivers are not that bad they just need more power and the head-unit just can't give it to them. The door panels are easy. send me a PM of your # if in the USA and we can talk if you want.

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Old 12-12-2012, 04:58 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I'm away from the car for a while now...likely the next month. I was just looking to find if there were any hidden bolts that I should know about. I removed everything visible and there was no play in the panel at all.

I'm definitely not interested in that cross-over swap as a project of my own. My Pioneer unit seemed to be pushing the door speakers too much after I swapped the Alpine unit.

Anyway, I pretty much followed what Notorious LRG has on page 3 of this thread. Anything I am severely over-looking?
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:09 PM   #99 (permalink)
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I'm away from the car for a while now...likely the next month. I was just looking to find if there were any hidden bolts that I should know about. I removed everything visible and there was no play in the panel at all.

I'm definitely not interested in that cross-over swap as a project of my own. My Pioneer unit seemed to be pushing the door speakers too much after I swapped the Alpine unit.

Anyway, I pretty much followed what Notorious LRG has on page 3 of this thread. Anything I am severely over-looking?
I will do my best to explain it without pictures or you being in front of the door. 1st Remove the door plunger pin. Remove the 5 push pins on the bottom of panel. Remove two large hidden bolts behind the door handle cover. Upper forward part of panel by air vent round rubber seal. That panel has two plastic plugs: remove them. In the rubber circle same panel you removed the two plugs you have two hidden screws under the rubber circle, remove both screws. Top corner in that area has an exposed silver bolt remove it. Now pull the bottom panel away from door move it about 3 inches while lifting/pushing up on the panel. Inside the upper door panel has 3 guide/pins that fit into the top of the fiberglass door panel. These pins stay with the door panel and can't be removed. This is why you need the panel at the top to be lifted upward so the 3 guide/pins about 1 & 1/2 inch long need to lift out of the fiberglass door. Then unhook two harnesses you will only have 1 foot of movement the wires are short. I did not remove the door handle from the inside so I left it connected and put the panel next to the door. Removing the door handle cable is not necessary. Page 3 on this post has all the pictures
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:20 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Hi Fasttoys
Nice work - do you have any photos of what you did with the door soundproofing to get rid of the door rattles?

I have a Pioneer unit like Notorious' which rattles the door. (I have bass coming thru the doors as the alpine sub is pants.) The car is still warrantied so I should be able to get the shop to fit some soundproofing for me if I can point them in the right direction. (The sub being pants appears not to be a warrant item! but may be the rattle is.)

Did you use Dynamat?

BTW with the Pioneer head unit and the factory tech pack Alpine fronts the stereo sounds pretty good to me (rattles aside). I think fixing the rattles will be a big step forward. Eventually I will try a different Sub Amp and maybe even a new sub to take the load off the fronts.
Many thanks!
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