Best Tool Box

[R'elise Me]

Can anyone advise or point me to a link with a list of must have tools for working on the elise. I don't want to do more than simple modifications, upgrades and pre/post track event services. I'm also wondering if ALL my tools should be metric (does it make sense to buy tool sets that include SAE tools or will metric-only do)? Thanks for the advise on the boxes!

[RegGuy]

Three things on picking a toolchest with drawers:

Grab some tools and put them into the drawers and try them under load. They operate differently with tools in them. Some that seem not so good empty actually perform very well under load.

Look at the access to the drawer. Some cheaper models won't have full access glides. That means the last 2-3 inches of drawer is still in the chest when you pull it out all the way on the glide.

I agree with Tim on the ball bearing issue, non-ball bearing glides can be quite good. I'll also add that some ball bearing glides can be marginal.

[goelise]

To get things done on your car - you need the tools to get the job done and not just to have them but to find them at the time.

There's are tool storage systems which can cost more than the vehicle itself! It does help speed up tackling a job since I'm not spending half my time looking through a mound of tools searching for an elusive wrench. Snap On, Craftsman, it's all good as long as you can find that tool at the time you need it. Your probably less likely to lose a tool to provided you put it back after the work. I was lucky and got a great deal on a Snap On box so I jumped on it.


Fastener work like bolts and screws need precision made tools. I really like Snap On Tools and have a quite a few but also realize that I got a budget to adhere to so for less precise work like prying and hammering I use Craftsman and other tool brands. Pliers also fall in this not so precise category in my opinion. Brands like Snap-On, Craftsman and Mac tools are very popular and great tools.

So I have about an apprentice level of tools. Not pro level by any means. I'll post a pic of my box and tools later today.

[Series 2 Elite]

[quote=TimMullen]These discussions about tools always seem to become like PC/Mac wars - one is always better than another.

Like all things, there is a compromise. The professional tools Snap-On, Matco, Proto, etc. are great if you are a pro - you make your living with the tools. The truck stops by your place of work, and brings the new ones right to you, and brings the replacements should you break one.

Hunting down the Snap-On truck used to be what saved me (as an amateur mechanic). Believe me the Internet is not all good. Snap-On's online store (http://www.snapon.com/) makes in way too easy to concoct a need and spend serious money!

[Series 2 Elite]

Originally Posted by jtanner

Some people also recommend the beam-type wrenches if you don't need to use it in tight spaces. They're inexpensive and never need to be recalibrated.

Jim

Not true, beam types are prone to damage just like any other instrument. The beam properties probably won't change too much althought a lot of materials age harden. If you are serious you need to have any type of torque wrench calibrated from time to time.

[xtn]

I recently got the big stainless rolling two-piece box. It's full ball bearing slides and pretty dang nice FOR THE MONEY. It's not as nice as Toms (note his has four slides per drawer, two on each side), but like I said FOR THE MONEY I didn't find one any better.

xtn

[TimMullen]

Originally Posted by Series 2 Elite

Not true, beam types are prone to damage just like any other instrument. The beam properties probably won't change too much although a lot of materials age harden. If you are serious you need to have any type of torque wrench calibrated from time to time.

As long as you don't use a beam type of torque wrench, it's pretty safe. Massive abuse might cause the "zero point" to change, but you can adjust the scale, or take that into account in you use.

The beam properties aren't going to change, and there will be no age hardening that could be measured in your or your children's life time. As long as you don't abuse it, or pull it so hard that you cause the metal to yield (i.e. applying 1,000 foot-pounds on a wrench rated for 100), isn't going to be affected. The bending properties of steel aren't going to change unless you start using it in an oven...

[LARRY]

If you follow racing at all, you've heard of MATCO TOOLS.

Nice stuff:


http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...at=2431&select


But I like Craftsman Tools. Always have. Always will.


And they make one helluva nice air compressor for those quick Lotus tire fill ups.

[TimMullen]

Originally Posted by R'elise Me

Can anyone advise or point me to a link with a list of must have tools for working on the Elise.

Craftsman tools will be good enough for 99% of what you may need.

To work on the Elise, you need metric tools. Allen head (hex) tools are necessary for various fittings. A 1/4 inch socket set is handy as well as a 3/8 socket set. You probably won't need 1/2 inch drive tools for most things (maybe for suspension bolts, etc.).

A set of GearWrenches are worth their weight in gold. Highly recommended.

A set of screw drivers and a replaceable bit screw driver tool - some of the "Phillips head" screws on the Elise are actually Posidrive screws (the look like Phillips, but the angle of the tips is different).

A nice set of pliers (including needle nose) come in handy.

A floor jack and jack stands for lifting the car for "wheels off" work. RhinoRamps (around $30) to back the car up on for oil changes work just fine.

An oil filter wrench - either the proper cap style for the specific filter, or an adjustable filter wrench - are pretty much necessary for oil changes.

A nice "click type" torque wrench is handy for tightening various bolts (like the toe-link bolt in the rear). A 3/8 inch drive 10-80 foot pound version of so would be a good one to start with.

All of the above tools can be bought in various sets at your local Sears store when there is a sale going on. They typically have a 1/4 inch set on sale for $10-15 every couple of weekends. Same for 3/8, etc. Watch the ads and buy on sale. Screw driver set, etc. are also much cheaper on sale.

As for the need for metric and SAE tools, you only need metric tools for the Elise, but it's handy to have the SAE tools for around the house, etc. Often you can buy sets of tools with lots of sockets - deep and standard, metric and SAE, screw drivers, etc. - on sale for $100 or so. A good starter set, and handy to keep things in for hauling around, but they usually include 12 point and 6 point sockets, and in reality, you very seldom need the 12 point sockets.

If you are buying a roll around tool box, you might be just as happy buying individual sets - the one that you need that are on sale.

[RacyTracy]

Originally Posted by TimMullen

All of the above tools can be bought in various sets at your local Sears store when there is a sale going on.

Sears national tool sale ends Oct. 7th. There's always stuff on sale, but perhaps not this much all at once.

[choi0706]

sam's club has a very nice one..

[nvrblu]

I'm looking for a large roll-around tool chest and they have two at the local Costco warehouse. Both are made by CSPS Metals.The larger of the two is about 57"w X 18"d x 53"h and costs about $900. The smaller one is $650 and I think it's about 40" w. Unfortunately, the CSPS web-site is "under construction" and doesn't provide much of a description or detailed specs.

Does anyone here own one? How do you like it?

I've got a small roll-around and mis-matched box by Kennedy which is jam-packed and I have tools hanging on the wall and on other shelves in my garage. The size and price of the chests at Costco seem to fit my budget/needs. I'd like user feedback from anyone here who has one or has suggestions for others in the same price/size range (I'd pay a little more and go smaller if there's a significant difference in quality).

Thanks

[uclacyc]

I'm resurrecting this thread, because it has good pointers on toolboxes and it talks about tools.

On torque wrenches, TimMullen said that "A 3/8 inch drive 10-80 foot pound version of so would be a good one to start with." Questions that I have are:

1. What is the difference between a 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch torque wrench?
2. If I get a 10-80 foot pound torque wrench, what do I do about the rear hub nut that needs 220 Nm = 162 foot pounds?

Another related and interesting thread would be the one on The perfect Elise / Exige tool set, as well as the Uberpost.

[goelise]

better late than never ... heh heh. Here is my toolbox:


in the background:


Having a toolbox really speeds up the work now. I used to have all my tools in gym bags and rummaging through those looking for the right tool was time consuming.

[TimMullen]

Originally Posted by uclacyc

What is the difference between a 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch torque wrench?

The 3/8 and 1/2 inch refer to the size of the socket that attaches - not the bolt side of the socket, but the square drive hole that the torque wrench attaches to.

In general, 1/2 drive sockets are for larger size bolts, while 3/8 drive sockets are fine for the more commonly used bolts on a car.

For what it's worth, probably 95% of my wrenching is done with 3/8 drive sockets and ratchets as they are more compact and fit in spaces better. The 1/2 drive tools are used for the big stuff.

If I get a 10-80 foot pound torque wrench, what do I do about the rear hub nut that needs 220 Nm = 162 foot pounds?

Then you need another torque wrench. For what it's worth, I have several. My 3/8 inch drive that goes up to 80 ft-lbs is the most commonly used one. My 1/2 inch drive tends to be used on my lug nuts and engine internals - it goes up to about 150 ft-lbs. I bought a second 1/2 inch drive torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft-lbs because I needed it for some hub nuts. I also have my 3/8 drive that does inch-lbs for the small fasteners. I even have a 1/4 inch drive inch-lb wrench for really cramped places.

Each torque wrench has a range that it can measure. They are most accurate near the middle of the range, and less so at the extremes. For that reason, you don't want to use the 10-80 ft-lb wrench to tighten cam cover nuts to 10 ft-lbs or the lug nuts to 77. I use my 5-50 ft-lb wrench for the first, and my 20-150 for the second.

For all that, the one that I use most often (with the exception of the lug nuts) is the 10-80 ft-lb wrench since most things on the car seem to fall toward the middle of that range. It makes a good starter wrench.

By the way, all that I've referred to are the "clicker" type of torque wrench. I also have some beam type wrenches - they are rather inexpensive. If cost is a problem, the clicker for general usage and an appropriately sized beam type would take care of the hub nuts without much trouble or too much additional expense.

[ace10]

i'm in man-love with my new torque wrench. from CDI

www.cditorque.com

half the price of matco/snapon/mac etc.

good selection, delivered with a test certificate. my "local" distrubuter on the web is www.bluetools.com in NC.

[goelise]

Originally Posted by ace10

i'm in man-love with my new torque wrench. from CDI

www.cditorque.com

half the price of matco/snapon/mac etc.

good selection, delivered with a test certificate. my "local" distrubuter on the web is www.bluetools.com in NC.

Nice! Its a Snap-On company too!

[uclacyc]

Wow, pricey.

1002NMRMH 20-100 Nm 3/8" $192
1501MRMH 20-150 in. lb. 1/4" $177

The 1002NMRMH is in Nm, and sounds like it will come in mighty handy (since you don't need to convert). Is $200 after tax worth it? I see foot pound ones in Home Depot for half that price.

[ace10]

Originally Posted by uclacyc

Wow, pricey.

1002NMRMH 20-100 Nm 3/8" $192
1501MRMH 20-150 in. lb. 1/4" $177

The 1002NMRMH is in Nm, and sounds like it will come in mighty handy (since you don't need to convert). Is $200 after tax worth it? I see foot pound ones in Home Depot for half that price.

not pricey at all.
why did you choose two random models?
for example, a common, all-purpose torque wrench is 3/8th 10lb to 100lbs (1002MFRMH) at $117... that's way less than snap-on at ~~$280 list. that one tool will meet all your basic lotus torque needs. and who pays tax on interstate mailorder?

i can assure you these are not disposable tools. twelve month warranty and no plastic parts (at least not visible). a torque wrench is a good investment, and these prices are comparable to a second hand (probably in need of a calibration) snap-on. i would not cross shop these against craftsman or no-name HD.
$0.02

[uclacyc]

Originally Posted by ace10

not pricey at all.
why did you choose two random models?
for example, a common, all-purpose torque wrench is 3/8th 10lb to 100lbs (1002MFRMH) at $117... that's way less than snap-on at ~~$280 list. that one tool will meet all your basic lotus torque needs. and who pays tax on interstate mailorder?

i can assure you these are not disposable tools. twelve month warranty and no plastic parts (at least not visible). a torque wrench is a good investment, and these prices are comparable to a second hand (probably in need of a calibration) snap-on. i would not cross shop these against craftsman or no-name HD.
$0.02

1501MRMH was a random model, because I picked the wrong one. 1002NMRMH wasn't so random because it was 20-100 Nm 3/8", the range for most of the torques and in Nm. I didn't realize that with a little extra math (1 Lb-Ft = 1.35582 Nm) I can save $75 with the 1002MFRMH. And if I buy out of state rather than in CA, I can save ~$10 in tax. Cool.

Thanks.