The official photography thread!

[LotusLust]

and now for something completely different. not a fast car- fast water

[mpsalm]

[eyesoreracing]

Carmel Valley Road near Monterey, CA. Yesterday...

[LotusLust]

wow. how rare is that?

[Eye Candy]

Just developed my first roll of film in ten years after going to digital. Caused me to think about what I was doing, and put the camera on manual. After taking a dozen shots of warts, moles and bumps- burned the rest of the roll Friday night at home. No Costco around to develop the film so I had to settle for Wal-Mart (ugh.)

Nikon F4, Nikon 35 to 135 zoom at 85 mm, hand held. Alien Bees ABR800 ring flash on camera. Nikon SB600 off axis to left on synch cord/light stand. Intentional slight overexposure. Note ringlight highlights in pupils. Intentional vignetting by pulling camera back slightly on Alien Bees mount (shot taken impromptu in bedroom with cluttered background Friday night).

[Eye Candy]

Fishing trip this morning. Beaufort waterfront at dawn. Nikon D80, landscape mode, Nikon 35-135 zoom at 135 mm, exposure compensation -1.

[Eye Candy]

The wind was light and variable and the water was "slick calm" 50 miles offshore.

[Eye Candy]

Fishing in 140 feet of water, electric reels are a big advantage.

[John]

I could really use some lessons... but here are a few from my amateur pile...

Back from Grand Am race in October 04 at VIR...



And one of my favorite beers from a sunny afternoon in Bratislava...

[DaCrema]

I used Opanda to look at some of the data in the recent photos. I am impressed. If the moderators do not mind I would like to request some help with a choice. In particular I need help from the readers of this thread because of the kind of shots shown here.

I am currently thinking of getting a D300 to replace either the D70 or 70s. While at I do shot a good bit using M, A, and S but also use the heck out of the cheaters for sports and portrait shots. I shoot a lot of cars at autocross and kid sports (mostly crew). The thought of not having the cheaters works on me some. In my camera kit I have Nikor, 17-55 f 2.5, 18 -70 kit glass, and Tamron 70-300 f 5-5.8.

To me the evolution in two generations of camera technology really shows. The shots at higher ISO are cleaner and shots per second have improved. I do not shoot RAW as a rule or spend a lot of time in post production. The alternative to a D-300 would be better glass - a Nikor 70-200 f2.8. The cost for than lens is almost the same as the D-300. Generally the rule is to go with the glass but in this case I am not so sure. The D70 is very handicapped at ISO speeds over 800. The fast long lens comes with a weight penalty. At low speeds the Tamron glass seems to work quit well. I will switch to better glass some day for the long tele but I like the close work. Currently when I go some where I will have the long glass and the SB800 on one camera and the 17-55 on the other. . Another option would be to wait for the D-90 (or whatever it will be called). The issue with that is the D-300 is a bit more rugged and I am no stranger to shooting in the rain, snow and other bad places. The D-70 cameras have held up well but that could be just luck. Finally I rarely print any thing larger that 8x10 though I have been known to crop before hand.

Please Canon fans do not change the subject - I like Cannons but grew up on Nikon and have to much Nikor glass. I am too old and invested to make a switch. If you have an opinion on the “better glass vs newer camera” please say something. I have been watching the camera forums. I value the opinions found on this board from those who shoot cars in motion.

Thanks in advance, I'll go back to being quiet.
John

[Tintin]

I can't really offer any advice, but I'm in the same boat. I have a D70 and I can hear the D300 calling my name. For me, I tend to do a lot of indoor available light shots, so the improved higher ISO of the D300 is important. I already have some fast glass (Nikkor 50mm f1.4 and 35-70 f2.8), so the camera would come ahead of getting a new lens. Something like that 70-200 f2.8 is awfully tempting, but I'm having a hard enough time saving up for the D300 without thinking of a new lens as well

The rule of upgrading your glass instead of your camera was fine back in the days of film, but now I'm not so sure that its applicable anymore. The sensor is just as important. With film you can upgrade the "sensor" by just sticking in a different roll of film, so therefore upgrading the glass was the best choice. But with digital you need to upgrade the whole camera to get a better sensor.

P.S. I never use the preset modes. Don't worry about them if you know how to use the aperature and shutter priority modes.

[DaCrema]

Originally Posted by Tintin

....

The rule of upgrading your glass instead of your camera was fine back in the days of film, but now I'm not so sure that its applicable anymore. The sensor is just as important. With film you can upgrade the "sensor" by just sticking in a different roll of film, so therefore upgrading the glass was the best choice. But with digital you need to upgrade the whole camera to get a better sensor.

P.S. I never use the preset modes. Don't worry about them if you know how to use the aperature and shutter priority modes.

Thanks. I find my self coming to the same conclusion about the only way to upgrade the "film" media. I enjoy shooting with available light - that is why I got the 17-55. I was going to us it only indoors for special things because of the cost. Some how it is always on the camera.

I need to work on throwing away the crutch. My more satisfying (not necessarily better) shots are from either the manual or shutter mode.
John

[LotusLust]

i think the step from the D70 to the D300 is a major improvement in camera technology. i lean toward improving glass though. the 70-200 is a great choice. you can successfully shoot that lens with a 1.4 teleconverter. i have very good luck using a 1.4 with a 500 f/4.

the wide zoom range slow tamron is probably the weakest link in your system. i would replace it with the nikon 70-200 and a 1.4 teleconverter (giving to a 105-300 f/4) and later when the newness of the D300 wearss off (meaning price comes down or availability in used market) then upgrade the camera

[macdady2424]

Eye Candy,

Did you use a polarizing lens filter when shooting the shark under water? The water seems so clear and theres no reflection or glare.

[macdady2424]

Guess I could share some of my photos. Maybe I'll post one every few days.

[ScaldedDog]

Originally Posted by Eye Candy

shot taken impromptu in bedroom ...

Nice piece of art. A bit over exposed.

[Eye Candy]

Originally Posted by macdady2424

Eye Candy,

Did you use a polarizing lens filter when shooting the shark under water? The water seems so clear and theres no reflection or glare.

Yes. I find the cheap Hoya polarizing filter to be adequate and a lot cheaper than most. I almost always use one when I shoot outdoors during "devil's light." On some lenses you need to be careful to readjust the filter after you change the zoom. Twirl the filter to give the best effect/saturation.

[Eye Candy]

Originally Posted by ScaldedDog

Nice piece of art. A bit over exposed.

Thanks, it is slightly overexposed to hide the skin flaws and wrinkles Also, it was taken by guesswork as I couldn't find my lightmeter, which I have now replaced with a Sekonic L-308S Flashmate meter ($189 at B&H.)
The bracketed shot one stop lower would have required some GIMP'ing before posting. That shot is without post processing.

[Eye Candy]

Originally Posted by DaCrema

I used Opanda to look at some of the data in the recent photos. I am impressed. If the moderators do not mind I would like to request some help with a choice. In particular I need help from the readers of this thread because of the kind of shots shown here.

I am currently thinking of getting a D300 to replace either the D70 or 70s. While at I do shot a good bit using M, A, and S but also use the heck out of the cheaters for sports and portrait shots. I shoot a lot of cars at autocross and kid sports (mostly crew). The thought of not having the cheaters works on me some. In my camera kit I have Nikor, 17-55 f 2.5, 18 -70 kit glass, and Tamron 70-300 f 5-5.8.

To me the evolution in two generations of camera technology really shows. The shots at higher ISO are cleaner and shots per second have improved. I do not shoot RAW as a rule or spend a lot of time in post production. The alternative to a D-300 would be better glass - a Nikor 70-200 f2.8. The cost for than lens is almost the same as the D-300. Generally the rule is to go with the glass but in this case I am not so sure. The D70 is very handicapped at ISO speeds over 800. The fast long lens comes with a weight penalty. At low speeds the Tamron glass seems to work quit well. I will switch to better glass some day for the long tele but I like the close work. Currently when I go some where I will have the long glass and the SB800 on one camera and the 17-55 on the other. . Another option would be to wait for the D-90 (or whatever it will be called). The issue with that is the D-300 is a bit more rugged and I am no stranger to shooting in the rain, snow and other bad places. The D-70 cameras have held up well but that could be just luck. Finally I rarely print any thing larger that 8x10 though I have been known to crop before hand.

Please Canon fans do not change the subject - I like Cannons but grew up on Nikon and have to much Nikor glass. I am too old and invested to make a switch. If you have an opinion on the “better glass vs newer camera” please say something. I have been watching the camera forums. I value the opinions found on this board from those who shoot cars in motion.

Thanks in advance, I'll go back to being quiet.
John

While not an expert I have read a lot recently about this upgrade pathway. While I would love to have a D300, I think a D80 is enough camera for most people, and the money saved could be spent toward a flashmeter, SLIK 700DX Pro tripod (a sturdy beast at $129,) a second flash (SB600) that the SB800 could control automatically for multiple flash wireless photography TTL, and a manual focus 300 mm f/2.8 ED IF AI-S lens (buy a used one that is E, E+ or D at Adorama or B&H.) That would be a great long lens for sports, track shooting and is considered "classic" glass, the autofocus lenses in this focal length and longer get outrageously expensive. I prefocus track shots anyway so AF isn't that helpful for what I do, but I just shoot for my own enjoyment and consider myself a beginner. You could also build a diffusion panel with PVC and white ripstop nylon ($20 total) and buy a Beginner Bee one light set up from Alien Bees ($330 for one flashhead, umbrella, lightstand) and have a portable home studio to play with. If you can master a one light setup with a diffusion panel and other light modifiers you can teach yourself a lot about the hobby in general. It is worth doing just to take headshots of your family and friends. The diffusion panel can be taken apart like tinker toys (schedule 40 PVC 1/2",) with 8'x5' being a convenient size. You could take this panel outside and use it to help photograph your car, or to the beach to use as a diffusion tent in the bright sun.

There are probably more people looking at this thread that are beginner-amateurs trying to get a few tips than hard core professionals. I am not sure why they would bother, as most of this easy stuff would be tedious for them, I don't think they can relate to us beginners. People should post up their everyday attempts and discuss them, it would help a lot of people.

[DaCrema]

Originally Posted by Eye Candy

While not an expert I have read a lot recently about this upgrade pathway. While I would love to have a D300, I think a D80 is enough camera for most people, and the money saved could be spent toward a flashmeter, SLIK 700DX Pro tripod (a sturdy beast at $129,) a second flash (SB600) that the SB800 could control automatically for multiple flash wireless photography TTL, and a manual focus 300 mm f/2.8 ED IF AI-S lens (buy a used one that is E, E+ or D at Adorama or B&H.) That would be a great long lens for sports, track shooting and is considered "classic" glass, the autofocus lenses in this focal length and longer get outrageously expensive. I prefocus track shots anyway so AF isn't that helpful for what I do, but I just shoot for my own enjoyment and consider myself a beginner. You could also build a diffusion panel with PVC and white ripstop nylon ($20 total) and buy a Beginner Bee one light set up from Alien Bees ($330 for one flashhead, umbrella, lightstand) and have a portable home studio to play with. If you can master a one light setup with a diffusion panel and other light modifiers you can teach yourself a lot about the hobby in general. It is worth doing just to take headshots of your family and friends. The diffusion panel can be taken apart like tinker toys (schedule 40 PVC 1/2",) with 8'x5' being a convenient size. You could take this panel outside and use it to help photograph your car, or to the beach to use as a diffusion tent in the bright sun.

There are probably more people looking at this thread that are beginner-amateurs trying to get a few tips than hard core professionals. I am not sure why they would bother, as most of this easy stuff would be tedious for them, I don't think they can relate to us beginners. People should post up their everyday attempts and discuss them, it would help a lot of people.

I do not think I would move to the D80 from a D70. Mostly because the D70 and 70s are taking very good pictures for the most part. The rest of your points are well taken. I already have the tripod, a slik but I do not know which one. I have even upgraded that with a ball head. I got the SB800 a few years ago and have thought about pairing it with a SB600. I really like the points about the diffusion pannel. The manuel focus 300mm Nikon seems like a good way to go also. A local camera store (Penn Camera) will rent a simular linse.

More than any thing though I like your last comment. I am and intend to stay firmly in the amateur camp. I do enough stuff with my daughter's crew team. Post production and time limits would take the fun away.

using the flash for effect at the 2007 Mid Atlantic Erg Sprints


the photo info should be in the shot or go to my smug mug site http://dac.smugmug.com/gallery/3483999#196167541