Factory Track Pack Recommended Set up - Page 3 - LotusTalk

Mark Starr · 03-24-2006, 10:10 AM

Hey Meat,
I'm right there or pehaps a bit lower when applying my butt in the car...........

I have uprated uprights, toe links, bushings and my new Nitron Race suspension and what ever else I could do. I have the new Aluminum rear uprights from Geary...........The quality is superb!!!!!

Stan · 03-24-2006, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

So... anyone have hints on the easiest way to chisel or grind off off the nuts? Maybe a dremel????

Got any PICs?

BTW...if you get a chance do a crack test on some of the take-off bits...magnaflux or whatnot.

Randy Chase · 03-24-2006, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stan

Got any PICs? .

Here are the two nuts that must be removed...

spider · 03-24-2006, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

Here are the two nuts that must be removed...

Hmmm, I really hope mine are not welded...

TimMullen · 03-24-2006, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

Here are the two nuts that must be removed...

Dremel with cutoff disks? Air die grinder with some cylindrical carbide bits?

They look to be welded in there pretty well, they don't look like small spot welds that will just chisel off easily. That's not going to be easy...

Randy Chase · 03-24-2006, 02:55 PM

No way to get a cut off disk in there. I think the max size tool would be about 1/8" diameter.

TimMullen · 03-24-2006, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

No way to get a cut off disk in there. I think the max size tool would be about 1/8" diameter.

It would be even hard to fit a die grinder bit in there...

Maybe it is only welded on the side and a chisel would work to cut the welds. It looks like it's filled/radiused all around the nuts, but maybe that's just the galvanized coating filling in around the nut.

In any case, I wish you luck.

Is it welded in your car because it's an early car? Later cars weren't welded? In which case, it another "feature" of the early cars...

adamant · 03-26-2006, 09:24 AM

Thanks Mark! I like the Ohlins and once the weather is better out here I want to get mine corner balanced. I'll check the clearance to the wheel liners but I would like to lower it a little.
Cheers, Adam.

RacyTracy · 03-26-2006, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

...anyone have hints on the easiest way to chisel or grind off off the nuts? Maybe a dremel????

How good do the welds look? I made this out of cardboard so it might make sense when I describe it. If you remove the two existing bolts. Then make a metal bracket with 3 holes in it (the cardboard in my pic) then, from the bottom, run the two outside into the welded nuts. Finally, using the center bolt, tighten it, maybe the two nuts will 'pop'. If the welds are high quality, the bracket would probably bend before the nuts break off.

OK, everyone can laugh at me now.....I can take it.

spider · 03-27-2006, 05:16 PM

Is this the redesign of the redesign of the original? If not, I think it's around $600. Good to know the one pictured is of the original design.

Stan · 03-27-2006, 06:46 PM

The new "production" track brace coming in on track pack cars is lighter, simpler and cheaper than the first version. I think that the first version may have come out of a different part of the company, Lotus Sport, but I'd have to check on that.

From the horse's mouth the new brace is a simple steel tube with a hole drilled through each flattened-out end. So the bolts that goes through the accompanying new rod ends would also pass through one end of the track brace. The feeling is that the stock bits are fine for A048 tires it seems. But if you go gummier, then you should add the brace. Adams seemed to indicate that, for autocross, the brace was not really necessary, even on Hoosiers, not sure about Goodyear "real slicks". Must be a time duration thing as autocross is so brief compared to a series of 20-30 minute runs at a track day?

trompazo · 03-29-2006, 11:40 AM

Does anyone know the part number for the rear brace kit? I've searched but can't find it anywhere

Randy Chase · 03-29-2006, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stan

From the horse's mouth the new brace is a simple steel tube with a hole drilled through each flattened-out end. So the bolts that goes through the accompanying new rod ends would also pass through one end of the track brace.

It makes me wonder then if the new brace only ties in one rod end to the opposite rod end, and that is enough, could you install the old track brace using only the rod ends also? Just rotate it 90 degrees and not use the engine mount bolts.

Anyone?

Buz · 03-29-2006, 01:03 PM

Who is going to be the first to flatten some tubing and drill holes in it? Offer cromoly and aluminum versions for $250 and $300 respectively and almost every Elise/Exige will have one.

Randy Chase · 03-29-2006, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buz

Who is going to be the first to flatten some tubing and drill holes in it? Offer cromoly and aluminum versions for $250 and $300 respectively and almost every Elise/Exige will have one.

It will take a little more than the tubing part. You need to replace the end joints also, and the bolts, and offer some machined spacer thingies.

And then be covered by corporate liability insurance.

Mark Starr · 03-29-2006, 03:15 PM

The Lotus part number is LOTAC05377..............List price is $671.15.........We have them in stock.........

Stan · 03-29-2006, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Starr

The Lotus part number is LOTAC05377..............List price is $671.15.........We have them in stock.........

Awesome Mark! This is a gen-u-ine Lotus part. It's lighter, cheaper, and easier to install than the first version. Why go aftermarket?

trompazo · 03-29-2006, 04:03 PM

So I assume this part number is for the updated lighter version?

Mark Starr · 03-29-2006, 04:10 PM

That is for the old part but I have to see if there will be a new part number. I will advise. I have a call in already.......

TimMullen · 03-29-2006, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

It makes me wonder then if the new brace only ties in one rod end to the opposite rod end, and that is enough, could you install the old track brace using only the rod ends also? Just rotate it 90 degrees and not use the engine mount bolts.

If the brace is not attached to the chassis, but only to the track rod ends, then it will not be putting the track rod ends in double shear. The loads from one side will allow the joint to flex, and transfer that flex to the other side. That would spread the load from the regular single shear joint, to two single shear joints. Which would be nowhere near as strong as a single double shear joint. And may even be weaker that the regular tie rod end in single shear.

The new brace may just be a tube flattened at each end, but I bet it attaches to the chassis in the middle somewhere...

03-24-2006, 10:10 AM	#41 (permalink)
Mark Starr Lotus Sales Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Salem, New York Posts: 609	Hey Meat, I'm right there or pehaps a bit lower when applying my butt in the car........... I have uprated uprights, toe links, bushings and my new Nitron Race suspension and what ever else I could do. I have the new Aluminum rear uprights from Geary...........The quality is superb!!!!! __________________ Good judgement is based upon experience. Experience is based upon BAD JUDGEMENT!!! Mark Starr 914 217-4817

03-24-2006, 02:55 PM	#46 (permalink)
Randy Chase Forum Founder Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 23,314 Images: 761	No way to get a cut off disk in there. I think the max size tool would be about 1/8" diameter. __________________ *** V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S *** We have been feeling the buzz since 2002 2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. 0-60mph in 2.9 seconds.

03-26-2006, 09:24 AM	#48 (permalink)
adamant Time to DRIVE Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 1,314 Images: 2	Thanks Mark! I like the Ohlins and once the weather is better out here I want to get mine corner balanced. I'll check the clearance to the wheel liners but I would like to lower it a little. Cheers, Adam. __________________ 2006 Exige Chrome Orange

03-27-2006, 05:16 PM	#50 (permalink)
spider Team Fiscal Irresponsible Join Date: May 2004 Location: Redondo Beach, Cali49A Posts: 790	Is this the redesign of the redesign of the original? If not, I think it's around $600. Good to know the one pictured is of the original design. __________________ '05 Arctic Silver/Ruby Red - Touring/SS/HT 15"/16" CE28N's/RA-1's/Penske's/Hypercoil's/Goodridge brake lines/Pagid RS-14's/TC Design tow hook/steering wheel hub extension/K&N filter/original Lotus rear brace/Valeo wiper/Sector 111 Bootie, microMIRROR, battery bracket/Odyssey PC680/ReVerie Alcantara CF seat/Lotus UK Alcantara trims: binnacle & shroud, HVAC surround, center console w/ gaitors, sill pockets/sill cupholder/7" 2bular single/Maddog diffuser/Von Hep license plate bracket/1,882 lbs

03-29-2006, 11:40 AM	#52 (permalink)
trompazo Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 447	Does anyone know the part number for the rear brace kit? I've searched but can't find it anywhere __________________ 2007 Exige S Krypton Green: 2ubular/FF RaceHeader/Penskes/Hypercoils/H20 injection 2006 Corvette Z06 = 590whp. 2004 Lamborghini Gallardo: Daily driver 2004 STi: project car #2 1994 Supra Turbo: project car #1

03-27-2006, 06:46 PM	#51 (permalink)
Stan - Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 6,928	The new "production" track brace coming in on track pack cars is lighter, simpler and cheaper than the first version. I think that the first version may have come out of a different part of the company, Lotus Sport, but I'd have to check on that. From the horse's mouth the new brace is a simple steel tube with a hole drilled through each flattened-out end. So the bolts that goes through the accompanying new rod ends would also pass through one end of the track brace. The feeling is that the stock bits are fine for A048 tires it seems. But if you go gummier, then you should add the brace. Adams seemed to indicate that, for autocross, the brace was not really necessary, even on Hoosiers, not sure about Goodyear "real slicks". Must be a time duration thing as autocross is so brief compared to a series of 20-30 minute runs at a track day?

03-29-2006, 01:03 PM	#54 (permalink)
Buz Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,892	Who is going to be the first to flatten some tubing and drill holes in it? Offer cromoly and aluminum versions for $250 and $300 respectively and almost every Elise/Exige will have one.

03-29-2006, 03:15 PM	#56 (permalink)
Mark Starr Lotus Sales Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Salem, New York Posts: 609	The Lotus part number is LOTAC05377..............List price is $671.15.........We have them in stock......... __________________ Good judgement is based upon experience. Experience is based upon BAD JUDGEMENT!!! Mark Starr 914 217-4817

03-29-2006, 04:03 PM	#58 (permalink)
trompazo Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 447	So I assume this part number is for the updated lighter version? __________________ 2007 Exige S Krypton Green: 2ubular/FF RaceHeader/Penskes/Hypercoils/H20 injection 2006 Corvette Z06 = 590whp. 2004 Lamborghini Gallardo: Daily driver 2004 STi: project car #2 1994 Supra Turbo: project car #1

03-29-2006, 04:10 PM	#59 (permalink)
Mark Starr Lotus Sales Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Salem, New York Posts: 609	That is for the old part but I have to see if there will be a new part number. I will advise. I have a call in already....... __________________ Good judgement is based upon experience. Experience is based upon BAD JUDGEMENT!!! Mark Starr 914 217-4817

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode