RTV Brace - Jacking Points

[rackhenry]

I am installing the Sector111 RTV brace and have a question on lifting the car. I researched the topic last night, read the manual but thought it wise to post here to be 110 percent sure. Are the rear most lifting points ok (D) to use when only using two jack stands, ie. the front of the car is on the ground? Also are the D points just the rearmost cross member right where the rear control arm is located? I am thinking if I use those , then the jack may actually get in the way of the install? However it does appear to be a bit less work not to remove the other panel...

[Frank Amoroso]

Pull the diffuser and place the jackstands under the subframe where the two large diffuser bolts attach to. Place your stands / hockey pucks accordingly. This is how I did it for my brace install and it worked out sufficiently well.

[Dang!!!]

I like to take the diffuser off while it's still on the ground. Then place the floor jack right in the middle of the subframe (the part where you connect the RTV brace to), jack it up, then jackstands on both sides. Really secure and will not go anywhere. Hope this helps...you're probably half way done now anyways...

[rackhenry]

Nope, still setting up, had to buy some new jacks. . Thanks for the feedback!

[rackhenry]

Originally Posted by Frank Amoroso

Pull the diffuser and place the jackstands under the subframe where the two large diffuser bolts attach to. Place your stands / hockey pucks accordingly. This is how I did it for my brace install and it worked out sufficiently well.

Is it ok to do while the car is only jacked up in the back. Worried about the angle the rear subframe contacts the jack stand at an angle??

[apk919]

Originally Posted by rackhenry

Is it ok to do while the car is only jacked up in the back. Worried about the angle the rear subframe contacts the jack stand at an angle??

If you do decide to lift it from the rear only, chock the front wheels... but I always prefer the car to be sitting level on either jackstands or wheel ramps when I'm working on it.

And as mentioned earlier, place the jackstands near where the threaded inserts are for the diffuser bolts... it will give you more room to get to the toe link parts and rotate your torque wrench...

[rackhenry]

Thanks Finally got the car up on stands and.... now just need some tin snips... Ah, the joys of learning a the mechanical intricacies//nuances of a new car!

[apk919]

Originally Posted by rackhenry

Thanks Finally got the car up on stands and.... now just need some tin snips... Ah, the joys of learning a the mechanical intricacies//nuances of a new car!

Tin snips? Are you removing the heat shielding? I'd keep the heat shielding that covers the inner toe link joints... ask me why...

[rackhenry]

Originally Posted by apk919

Tin snips? Are you removing the heat shielding? I'd keep the heat shielding that covers the inner toe link joints... ask me why...

Glad I just bent it out of the way then! I was only going to trim enough to get out of the way of the bar. Guessing that it offers some form of protection to the joint?

[apk919]

Originally Posted by rackhenry

Glad I just bent it out of the way then! I was only going to trim enough to get out of the way of the bar. Guessing that it offers some form of protection to the joint?

Yes... especially on the driver's side where the U-bend for the cat is located. Probably saved my heim joints from excess heat when my catalytic converter cracked...

[rackhenry]

Once you got me thinking in that direction, I looked at the setup and came to the same conclusion. Just some fancy bending done on the shielding...

Now just need to get a scissor type u joint separator so I can install my V2 arms..

Thanks everyone for all the great feedback!!!