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Old 10-03-2013, 12:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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APR Performance Canards

Just received a set of carbon fiber canards from APR performance. Nice looking product, packaged well, shipping was a bit slow.

Expected more in the installation instructions department but received nothing. Its strait foreword, 3 bolts.....That's all good.

Placement would have been nice!

Anyone care to suggest a proper placement location, dimensions, measurements, maybe a diagram or template for the mounting bolts.

Feel free to school me up!

Thanks................
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I looked at sectors install guide for the ones they sell. Some will say that's kind of a shady thing to do but I gave spent enough money with them, I'm sure they wouldn't have minded.


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Old 10-03-2013, 02:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Good Luck. I have the same and was amazed no install instructions. Looked at dozens of install photos, talked to a number of people who had them installed and read a bunch of aero articles that were very technical. Finally placed wet threads on the sides of my car and drove it to mark air flow. Then I drilled the holes.

Are they placed correctly? I really don't know, but there is no negative result.
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I installed some on an Elise.

I didn't like the idea of just putting bolts with washers through the thin fiberglass, so I made backing plates of aluminum and bent it to match the contour of the APR canard. I found a position below the headlights where they matched the curvature of the body pretty well, and had the leading edge was aligned in a way for minimal drag. Marked through the holes of the canard and drilled the fiberglass.

I didn't want the hard canard or aluminum plate to stress the fiberglass, so I layered them with a thin weatherstripping foam (could use rubber) before bolting them down. Should prevent the fiberglass from cracking.

Here's how I mounted them (on my friend's car)
http://amoroso.smugmug.com/Cars/PCA-...9532&k=S63d8sh



And this is how another friend (Ross Carlson) mounted them on his Exige
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Drilling holes in the clam is über daunting. If it wasn't for Travis, my canards would still be sitting on the shelf. Thanks Travis!

Not scientific, and I'd imagine relative F & R ride heights would affect things differently, but at least in my car, the curve of the APR canard does seem to follow the sides of the headlight housings...
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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How'd they feel that first time on track?
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Vulcan you read my mind. I was looking at the pictures I took of Ross's car at RA!
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Having now drilled more than a dozen holes in my car it's something you never get used to. Drilling for my wing was the worst!

I actually had a local bodyshop install mine as I wanted them to put a backing plate just like Travis says (hell Travis did you make mine too?). I asked them to put the front of the canard in the middle of the opening for the brake duct (that was more for my visual issues than for performance). They then just made them fit the body line of the car and the upper point wound up where it wound up.

I think without real wind tunnel testing we're all just guessing - I'll totally admit I put mine on for look (but wouldn't have done that if they hadn't given good for some benefit).

Next season I plan to remove all aero and run some laps then start adding it back to see how it affects the car.

Oh, and as I don't have very many pictures of my car is was tough to find one (right....) - here's a super high resolution original

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Old 10-03-2013, 01:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Aerodynamic Analysis of Lotus Exige by RaceCar Engineering Magazine
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah I made your backing plates too, matched the curvature to your APR canards, which were slightly different than Frank's.
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I can't really answer the core question of where the APR canards should go. I can tell you about the canards I have and how they were set.

I bought some Reverie carbon canards and was disappointed with the fit to the body as there was no possible way I could get the to sit flush with the body work. I know I could have drilled holes, tightened down the bolts well and squished it all together but felt that method left much to be desired.

So I returned the parts I bought and then started messing with making my own. I made a set out of heavy cardboard and covered them with duct tape and taped them to the car. I then hooked a Go-Pro to the front of the car and pointed it at some sections of string I placed above and below my cardboard canard. I learned a good bit doing this and changed the amount of curve and angle of attack of the canard until I had good attached flow around the part.

I then used the cardboard part as a pattern for some parts that I made out of 1/8" ABS sheet. I cut and heat-curved the sheet and then mounted it to the clam using sections of aluminum angle and special 3M autobody double sticky tape.

I do a lot of solo events and wanted to be able to whack a cone at speed and not have the clam damaged by bolts pulling through so I used the tape. I've had the car far over 100 mph many times and they've never come loose.

I've attached some photos of my set up.

If I had the APR canards I'd tape them to the car and see what the airflow is like with some strings. If they are just bolted on without any testing then you'll never know if they help or hurt you.............and very small changes have large effects in airflow.

I used the same strings and a Go-Pro set up to test my rear wing angle setting and to check airflow around the front splitter. I can tell you the package really has the car stuck to the flow and predictable at speed - a very nice change from the car without all the stuff bolted to it.

Have fun.

Dave

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Old 10-03-2013, 08:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I measured, eyeballed and centered with side inlet openings. I know that when I was going 130-135 mph on the oval of the California Speedway - the car was planted and glued to the track. I like to believe the cannards and front spoiler contributed to front down force.


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Old 10-03-2013, 08:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Looks nice good2go.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davemk1 View Post
I can't really answer the core question of where the APR canards should go. I can tell you about the canards I have and how they were set.

I bought some Reverie carbon canards and was disappointed with the fit to the body as there was no possible way I could get the to sit flush with the body work. I know I could have drilled holes, tightened down the bolts well and squished it all together but felt that method left much to be desired.

So I returned the parts I bought and then started messing with making my own. I made a set out of heavy cardboard and covered them with duct tape and taped them to the car. I then hooked a Go-Pro to the front of the car and pointed it at some sections of string I placed above and below my cardboard canard. I learned a good bit doing this and changed the amount of curve and angle of attack of the canard until I had good attached flow around the part.

I then used the cardboard part as a pattern for some parts that I made out of 1/8" ABS sheet. I cut and heat-curved the sheet and then mounted it to the clam using sections of aluminum angle and special 3M autobody double sticky tape.

I do a lot of solo events and wanted to be able to whack a cone at speed and not have the clam damaged by bolts pulling through so I used the tape. I've had the car far over 100 mph many times and they've never come loose.

I've attached some photos of my set up.

If I had the APR canards I'd tape them to the car and see what the airflow is like with some strings. If they are just bolted on without any testing then you'll never know if they help or hurt you.............and very small changes have large effects in airflow.

I used the same strings and a Go-Pro set up to test my rear wing angle setting and to check airflow around the front splitter. I can tell you the package really has the car stuck to the flow and predictable at speed - a very nice change from the car without all the stuff bolted to it.

Have fun.

Dave

That's probably the most impressive testing/setup I've heard of a private individual doing - well done. While I'd love to say send me very detailed closeups and measurements I can't really move them now that they are drilled in place - and I'd like to believe that mine are "right"

Also as I understand it the canards don't really provide front end grip as they do for the whole car. Again, as I understand they primarily smooth out the turbulent air on the sides of the car to make the flow under the car smoother and stronger. I've also read that the skirts are the biggest aero mod you can make as they increase the underside of the car by a large margin. While I know all my aero is functional I've never hidden the fact that I did it primarily for look as I wanted it to be as aggressive as possible. If it were a street car I probably wouldn't have done any of it (as it's too aggressive there IMHO).

Anyway Dave very impressive and well thought out
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Grey View Post
Yeah I made your backing plates too, matched the curvature to your APR canards, which were slightly different than Frank's.
If you guys don't know - Travis is the man. Thanks chief. BTW (off topic) did you ever do a thread/write-up on Jason's shifter? I know it's a very specific product but man, there's something there...
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by good2go View Post
I measured, eyeballed and centered with side inlet openings. I know that when I was going 130-135 mph on the oval of the California Speedway - the car was planted and glued to the track. I like to believe the cannards and front spoiler contributed to front down force.


Which wing and splitter is that? Also what diffuser are you running, I assume with all that aero it isn't stock. I'd be that your skirts are giving you the most of everything on the car in terms of down force.

I'll admit I'm not generally a fan of red cars but man that is stunning. I'm sure you have some better pictures, share some more so we can see the rear end.
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Reading my mind Ross.................

I was going to ask the same but got caught up at work. Ive seen the splitter before just cant remember where, want to put a splitter on gungodesses Elise. Im wondering the same about the side skirts and wing.......Please do tell good2go! Pictures of them would be great too!

Ross, the red accents on yours does the trick for me!
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, the front splitter is gut sport, rear wing is EP something spoiler from eliseparts.com, rear diffuser is aluminum one from sector111, sideskirts from esta international...

Here are some random old and new photos...







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Old 10-04-2013, 04:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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It looks like most of the guys on here have them placed wrong...
Reverie did wind tunnel testing and this is where the canards need to be mounted...
Lotus Exige S2 Wind Tunnel Testing Session
It also looks like Davemk1 got it right too with all his testing...
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:16 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I also picked up a set of these this week along with a gtc-200 wing. Usually I see canards placed lower on the car. I suspect part of the reason the Reverie canards are placed so high is so they will still work with the reverie wide body wheel arches. I got the apr because they are lower. Anyone have both on? That might look kinda cool. Usually on race cars that I've seen they have two on each side. A larger one towards the bottom and a smaller one above it.
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