Help! How to remove harness bar in Exige S?

[Smoky]

Hi folks

I'm installing my Kenwood sub/amp onto the rear panel today. I need to remove the rear panel to do so. Thus, I need to remove the harness bar.

The vBulletin forums never allow one to search for 3-letter words, so I cannot search for harness "bar". My searches have come up with nothing about this.

How do you remove the harness bar? I know I read somewhere that you unbolt both ends, slide it to one side (without hitting the clam) and then slide it out of the panel. Then the panel just comes right out after a few screws(hopefully).

The only bolt I find for the factory harness bar seems to be INSIDE the bar...each end of the bar has a "T". The bolt seems to be inside the "T", like this: (warning crude drawing approaching)
(rear)
-------------------| <---bolt in here, head is exposed at rear


How am I supposed to get to this bolt? I can't get a tool in there, unless I'm missing something. Is this the right bolt? Can I remove the speaker "shroud" to gain better access? This plastic "shroud" seems to be riveted in and not removable.

Thanks in advance. I'm mid-install and can't continue until I get this info. I'll keep tinkering but would have to have to put the seats back in and start over another day.

[Smoky]

Ok, I found this from CodyMac:

remove roof
remove seats (loosen seats and unbolt bottom seat belt attachments from them)
pop the screens off the speaker covers (at least, on the Blaupunkts)
unscrew your speakers and remove them
cut a 1/2" or 13mm deepwell socket down to fit, when attached to a 3/8" ratchet, between the bulkhead and down into the end tubing (wells) where the bolt attaches the bar to the rollhoop - (you'll have to play around a bit to find the combination that fits - a short socket is too short and a deepwell is too long).
working through the speaker holes, unbolt the bar on both ends, being careful not to lose the washer that goes between the bar and the rollhoop (see illustration) - the bolts are coated with threadlocker.
slide the bar to one side, into the clam on one end with the opposite end in the speaker pod, pull the free end towards you and out through the door.
remove the "cupholder" at the back of the shifter tunnel.
unbolt the upper seatbelt mounting points
remove the four screwed in clips along the top edge of the rear panel
push down slightly on the rear panel along the bottom of the rear glass while pushing the edges near the doors and seatbelts towards the back of the car so they'll clear the roll hoop cover (this will be obvious and much easier than it sounds)
unclip the dome light and remove the panel
the speaker pods are riveted to the rear panel with plastic rivets (single use)

Is there a simpler solution that someone has figured out? I really have to get a 13mm deep socket and then cut it down? Is this what Lotus does to remove this bolt? Seems like there should be something for this without having to cut sockets. It wouldn't be the first time I've had to do this...but jeez why didn't they use an allen socket bolt for this? It would have reached so much easier.

Starting to wonder if this is worth the surmounting effort. I mean, I like this little Kenwood KSC sub/amp.. it's perfect for our cars. But I don't know if it's good enough to be going through all this. Hopefully someone here has an easier solution, or has found something to work better for themseves.

Thanks!

[Smoky]

Well, no big deal that no one responded. I gave up. It occured to me that I'm not working on a Firebird..it's a Lotus, and it's stupid to try to do so much modification just to install this little subwoofer that in all likelihood will probably die in a year or two and need replaced (no doubt, with a different install/bolt/wiring layout, even if it is the same product from the same company...like Alpine does).

I managed to get it behind my seat pretty well, realizing (once the seats were out) that the seat has an inset center portion. Installing this sub/amp vertically allows it to sit within this space. I have a piece of foam between the seat and the sub amp, to prevent damage and movement. It's all tight now.