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Old 09-29-2009, 08:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Refinish Floor Under Lotus Elise Front Seats

Hey folks,

Anyone figure out how to refinish the floor immediately under the front seats? I am referring to the part of the floor that is before the carpets and has ridges.

Mine is all scratched and the scratches show as shiny aluminum color versus the satin finish. So my question is: What is the original finish? Is it painted? Can we repaint it? What has anyone done to make this look new again? Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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someone put black vinyl on it
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It is anodized originally. I'm thinking that refinishing that piece is going to become a common topic as the years go on. I don't think that you'll be able to do much more than find something to cover it with.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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What about scotchbrite or steel wool to even out the tone? I'd think a real fine steel wool would do it?
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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A Scotchbrite pad will just remove the anodizing which will expose the aluminum underneath. This will allow the bare aluminum to corrode seeing as you removed the protective anodizing coating so this should be avoided.
Steel wool will compound the corrosion problem because not only will it remove the anodizing, but it will leave small particles of steel embedded in the bare aluminum which will then cause a permanent darkening of the aluminum because steel in contact with bare aluminum causes dissimilar metal corrosion. Never use steel wool on anything made of aluminum!
There really is no way to repair the scratches in your anodized aluminum floors to bring them back to the look and protection of when they were new.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Forget the ridges - look at the piece right behind that.
I am all for light weight ad lack of wank, but I dropped a wrench on the floor when replacing the seats and the sound was shocking.
I put in a small piece (maybe 15"x18" approx) of sound deadener and it was worth its weight.

For the ridges maybe nail polish- or scotchbright.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I guess you'll need a new tub/chassis :-)
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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That part looks like it is separate from the chassis. Anyone know if that part is removeable? Perhaps we can remove it and just have it anodized again?
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I can see the headline now..."Lotus Totaled Due to Scratched Footwell Ridges"!!!
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Yea... anal car detailer destroys Lotus Chassis. Ouch! But it does look kind of separate...
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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im pretty sure that piece is bonded and riveted as part of the tub.
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elikdiaz View Post
That part looks like it is separate from the chassis. Anyone know if that part is removeable? Perhaps we can remove it and just have it anodized again?
It's not removable - it is an integral part of the chassis.
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tesprit View Post
A Scotchbrite pad will just remove the anodizing which will expose the aluminum underneath. This will allow the bare aluminum to corrode seeing as you removed the protective anodizing coating so this should be avoided.
Steel wool will compound the corrosion problem because not only will it remove the anodizing, but it will leave small particles of steel embedded in the bare aluminum which will then cause a permanent darkening of the aluminum because steel in contact with bare aluminum causes dissimilar metal corrosion. Never use steel wool on anything made of aluminum!
There really is no way to repair the scratches in your anodized aluminum floors to bring them back to the look and protection of when they were new.
Yeah, good to know. Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:22 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Ok I have decided to sand-off the anodized finish and polish the corrugated floorboard under the seats (similar to what other owners have done with the shift knob and ebreak handle). I feel it will be much easier to maintain looking new as aluminum versus a scratched anodized finish. Any scratches that do form will be very hard to see and can optionally be bufed out. I will not have a polished aluminum finish and instead will use finishing pads to give it a brushed aluminum texture once the anodized finish is removed. I am not sure if I will clear coat it or not. I can basically use aluminum polish occasionally to keep it bright or just let it "self anodize". Aluminum naturally forms a layer when exposed that protects it, it does not corrode and weaken like other metals as mentioned above. I will post pics when done!
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elikdiaz View Post
Ok I have decided to sand-off the anodized finish and polish the corrugated floorboard under the seats (similar to what other owners have done with the shift knob and ebreak handle). I feel it will be much easier to maintain looking new as aluminum versus a scratched anodized finish. Any scratches that do form will be very hard to see and can optionally be bufed out. I will not have a polished aluminum finish and instead will use finishing pads to give it a brushed aluminum texture once the anodized finish is removed. I am not sure if I will clear coat it or not. I can basically use aluminum polish occasionally to keep it bright or just let it "self anodize". Aluminum naturally forms a layer when exposed that protects it, it does not corrode and weaken like other metals as mentioned above. I will post pics when done!
Yes, please post the pics when you are done. Aluminum oxide sandpaper or Scotchbrite pads will work just fine. The Scotchbrite makes less of a mess to clean up afterward and will probably be easier to use on the irregular surfaces. You are correct about the self protecting oxide layer that bare aluminum forms almost instantly after exposure, but it is not very thick and corrosive materials in contact with the aluminum for extended periods of time (salt, acids, rain water, mud, etc.) will cause the surface to corrode into white dust. Just keep it clean and you should be able to maintain it from time to time with some more light sanding.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
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sound deadener

[quote=holmz;1364760]Forget the ridges - look at the piece right behind that.
I am all for light weight ad lack of wank, but I dropped a wrench on the floor when replacing the seats and the sound was shocking.
I put in a small piece (maybe 15"x18" approx) of sound deadener and it was worth its weight.

What is and where did you buy the "sound deadener?" Is it sticky back? How thick? Sounds like a nice mod.

Thanks.

Last edited by RWLott : 10-05-2009 at 11:53 AM. Reason: subscribe
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