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Old 06-17-2007, 07:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Seat removal - tough bolt

I've read all the threads on seat removal but I'm stuck on the right rear bolt of the passenger seat. I have a nice assortment of extensions and bits but I can't seem to get enough leverage on it.

For anyone who's removed their seats, what did you use to get to this bolt?

Thanks
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have an Exige (Probax) and it just took a 6mm allen socket and about 16 inches of extensions. Getting it started back in was a real bitch, however, and I ended up putting some sticky stuff on the end of the socket to put the bolt in place and get it started.

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Old 06-17-2007, 09:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You need an extension and a wobble.



I did it several times without one and ended up stripping the bolt. I subsequently bought the proper tool and a handful of seat bolts. With the wobble, I no longer dread taking the seat out to retrieve whatever happens to be rattling under the passenger seat on any given day.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty
You need an extension and a wobble.



I did it several times without one and ended up stripping the bolt. I subsequently bought the proper tool and a handful of seat bolts. With the wobble, I no longer dread taking the seat out to retrieve whatever happens to be rattling under the passenger seat on any given day.
The tool pictured is typically called a "u-joint" or a "swivel" they are also available in a smoother working ball and socket style, that tend to hold up better in my experience. A wobble it typically an extension with a funny bulge on the end of it allowing the socket to pivot a little bit, it delivers a bit less torque but usually works as well. Here's what a wobble looks like:

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Old 06-17-2007, 10:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have a U-joint in 3/8" but the joint itself was too big.

I wound up making my own tool for this. I got cheapie 6mm allen and socket. Cut off about an inch of the allen and slightly bent it. JB weld it into the socket and it provides just enough clearance to get it going.

I like the idea of the wobble. I'll definately get one of those, and a 1/4" U-joint, for the next time the seats have to come out.

Thanks for the ideas.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I used a set of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94534 and they made a hard job very easy. The hex shaped ball ends allow you to work at an angle to the hex heads on the bolts and with an extension you have plenty of room to work the ratchet wrench handle. They also work great when you put the seat back in. Just put a little dab of chewing gum or your favorite sticky stuff (I use use a bit of sticky black mastic tape used to install windshields) on the ball end, insert the ball end into the head of the bolt and you can feed the bolt back through the hard to reach hole in the seat rail and into the floor using one of these drivers and your extension.
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Old 06-17-2007, 01:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here is my latest tool the 3/8" "Off-Line Socket Driver"
It locks in either the straight or angled position.
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
Oh, NOW I get it!
 
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First, remove the little rubber inflator for the lumbar support. Attached by a single star head bolt, I believe.

After this, I never re-attached mine, I let it dangle, as I'm a frequent seat remover.

Now you can use a straight extension on it.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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A six inch wobble extension worked. I did have to rotate the bracket for the lumbar inflater out of the way.

ed
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I used a 3/8" drive with a 24" extention, a U-joint, and the appropriate hex/allen socket. No issues whatsoever. The long extention makes it soooooo easy.

xtn
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