Turbo Kit -Best bang for your buck-bolt on 100-200whp, price reduced

[dereklburt]

Well, I thought it was sold but the buyer fell through. Now I have it all disassembled which I didn't want to do unless it was sold. I want to move on and get my car back together so I dropped the price a little. This is a great deal for someone!

This is a dyno proven turbo kit that I had on my car. The kit will work with a stock engine or modified. With the stock engine, expect to make about 270-280 horsepower to the wheels, depending on your tune with around 250ftlbs of torque (Keep in mind that the stock Elise only makes around 165hp to the wheels) You can bolt on 100+hp on a stock engine. For more hp you will need to lower the compression. You will also need to add a hi-volume fuel pump depending on how much power you make.

With my set up, I had drop in Mahle pistons and made 355whp (well more than double the stock power!). See the dyno below. I use an AEM engine management system to control mine. I also know others that use the hydra stand alone that works well. Mine originally had the Greedy Emanage and made 242whp on a smaller turbo (GT28R) with the stock pistons.

With the current set up the car on high boost with Mahle drop in pistons ran about 21psi and was good for a 124mph run down the quarter mile with a bad launch! It makes some serious power, I just want more.(I know call me crazy) I also run it on low boost and it is good for about 300whp at only 12-14psi.

You will get essentially everything that you would get if you purchased an aftermarket turbo kit for the car. It is equivalent as far as power goes to the Forced Fed 400hp kit (same turbo and equivalent intercooler set up) But my car was actually putting out a little more power than they advertise. (testing showed their cars running 121mph in the quarter)

The only reason I am selling it is that I am now looking for 500whp and I am going to have to completely redesign the system as it is currenlty about maxed out. I have to go with a bigger turbo, water to air intercooler set up , even bigger injectors, and my current manifold is only good up to about 450hp, so it makes sense for me to start over. This is good news for you as you can save a ton of money and have one of the fastest Elise's in the country. Turn your Elise into a Super car!

I am basically selling a complete bolt on kit. The only thing you would need is to install it, run a oil return to the oil pan, and either get a stand alone (like I run) or see if Charlie X will tune the computer.

Here is what is included.

1) New GT2871R turbo (dual ball bearing) with about 2000 total miles on it. It uses an internal waste gate.
2) Custom exhaust manifold that has been ceramic coated. (also only about 2000 total miles on it)
3) Air to Air intercooler with twin fans (Core 18 X 7 X 3.5 )
4) All connecting intercooler and turbo piping including clamps
5) Blow off valve (I think it may be off of a stock vehicle? not an expensive one but works fine with this set up) I had a lot of questions about this before so I included a picture. It vents to atmosphere.
6) I will leave all the fittings on the turbo for the lines but you will need to run the lines.
7) Bigger injectors 630cc
8) K&N filter-does need to be cleaned(I don't have the cleaning/oiling kit)
8) Downpipe off turbo-also ceramic coated
9) 3'' Magnaflow muffler and exit exhaust if you want it but it will add to shipping cost quite a bit due to the exhaust hanger and size. It is fine behind the stock mesh as you only see the exit pipe, but if you have a rear panel eliminator, you might want something that was prettier. I like the way it comes out the mesh on top of the splitter in the back. I personally would redo the bend off of the downpipe that connects to the muffller as it is a stock size bend.



THIS IS ABOUT THE BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK YOU CAN GET!!!
Save thousands over any other turbo set up!

Price $2700.00 plus shipping (ups ground is about $70-85 without muffler to most places in the US, it jumps to about $110-120 or so with muffler)
I have included some pictures. If you are interested, email me and I can send more.

[...m...]

...very tempting to anyone who has the money - how much would EFI cost someone to buy and make this a complete kit?..

[Fozzy]

Pm sent!

[keinayo]

Originally Posted by ...m...

...very tempting to anyone who has the money - how much would EFI cost someone to buy and make this a complete kit?..

If someone gets this turbo kit I have a slightly used EFI for good price

[Fozzy]

Originally Posted by keinayo

If someone gets this turbo kit I have a slightly used EFI for good price

Tell me more keinayo. I might be interested mate.

[Seb]

^^ So make a FS thread.

Bump for a good kit.

[Seeseejay]

How much?

[dereklburt]

It's still for sale. I have had a lot of interest but no takers.
Anyone?
In my opinion, this is one of the best upgrades you could ever do to your Elise!
It completely transforms the car so that the power matches the supercar looks

[brgelise]

I'll bet, like myself, the biggest concern is engine life! Sure I'd love to run with the big dogs but at the track lap after lap, how long before she blows apart? Price is great, but unless its in the hands of a true expert, used power adders are risky at best!

[Seb]

As long as you stay at 8psi, have a good tune, and keep good gas in the tank, you'll have no issues.

[dereklburt]

Originally Posted by brgelise

I'll bet, like myself, the biggest concern is engine life! Sure I'd love to run with the big dogs but at the track lap after lap, how long before she blows apart? Price is great, but unless its in the hands of a true expert, used power adders are risky at best!

A used power adder is not any different than a new one except that you are going to save several thousand dollars. As far as parts being "Used" The only part that would be of any real concern would be the turbocharger. This turbo only has about 2000 miles on it and it is the new Garrett GT2871R dual ball bearing type. I am sure it has another 100,000+ miles to go before it has any issues. My whole car only has 10,000 miles on it and it did not get a turbo kit until it had around 7000 miles on it. I then had it redone and added the new turbo and manifold later.

These engines have been staying together at 600+hp. Running low boost on a stock engine with this kit is no different than adding the aftermarket superchargers etc. Basically, you just need to make sure that you supply enough gas so that you do not run into a lean condition. I understand that the stock pistons are a concern when you get too much over 300hp. This would also be true with a supercharger.

If you put forged pistons like my drop in Mahle's, with a good tune, 350whp is not a problem at all and will be reliable all day long as long as you have it tuned properly. As the power increases, the transmission is where the concern lies. I have not had any issues with a stock trans (Even though it is a Euro trans with different gears). I may run into problems eventually with more power if I am not careful.

One advantage a turbo has is that it does not run unless you are "on it". It will not effect gas mileage unless you are using the turbo because it runs off of the exhaust rather than the power of the engine. You will also usually make more power with the turbo. This set up will spool quickly and make the car not only an absolute blast to drive, but a force to be reckoned with. I actually use a two stage boost controller and that way I could run it around 12psi for normal driving and kick it up to high boost when I really wanted the full power. Even at low boost it was making about 280-300whp with the low compression pistons.

Why bother spending money on a header, aftermarket exhaust, and computer upgrade when you can get a turbo for about the same price and instead of 20hp you can get an extra 120hp bolt on for a stock engine.

By the way, it is still available. I am pretty surprised that no one has jumped on this.

[MP51098]

very interested in this, have the funds (was getting ready to buy a vf stage2 upgrade kit) and I am not opposed to doing the piston upgrade as the engines going to be out of the car next month anyways.
But to be honest I know nothing about the tuning part. Please tell me exactly what I would need to do or lead me to a post where I can read up on exactly what I would need to do.

[E_Swift]

Originally Posted by dereklburt

... is not a problem at all and will be reliable all day long as long as you have it tuned properly....

Doesn't seem very long to me!

Now it may be that the factory supercharger's extra strain on the engine is low enough that you never see the result (due to normal things that happen to the engine regardless of power lever, over time)... but at some point it will be a little too much.

If you are really worried about the long term reliability of a mod, do your own research...

In all seriousness, this sounds like a great deal for someone looking for a healthy amount of additional power.

[E_Swift]

Originally Posted by MP51098

Please tell me exactly what I would need to do or lead me to a post where I can read up on exactly what I would need to do.

You will want to have an experienced tuner create a map (dyno strongly recommended... although not required) since this is custom hardware and no tune or ECU is included in his price.

Thus, you will also need some sort of aftermarket ECM (such as EFI brand, mentioned above - or countless others)....

On that note... let me know if you are selling a supercharger kit.

[Seb]

Originally Posted by MP51098

very interested in this, have the funds (was getting ready to buy a vf stage2 upgrade kit) and I am not opposed to doing the piston upgrade as the engines going to be out of the car next month anyways.
But to be honest I know nothing about the tuning part. Please tell me exactly what I would need to do or lead me to a post where I can read up on exactly what I would need to do.

I can give you a full list of what you'll need in order to max this setup out:

Lower compression ratio pistons.
Rods capable of handling boost
New clutch (I'd get an ACT)
Bigger fuel pump (Walbro 190lph should do you fine)
Maybe a fuel pressure regulator (fuel lab or Aeromotive)
Logging equipment
Boost Gauge
Wideband o2 gauge.
Some form of engine management
One awesome tune.

Optional things include intake manifold, head porting, cams, light flywheel, etc.

Missing anything?

[dereklburt]

Originally Posted by Seb

I can give you a full list of what you'll need in order to max this setup out:

Lower compression ratio pistons.
Rods capable of handling boost
New clutch (I'd get an ACT)
Bigger fuel pump (Walbro 190lph should do you fine)
Maybe a fuel pressure regulator (fuel lab or Aeromotive)
Logging equipment
Boost Gauge
Wideband o2 gauge.
Some form of engine management
One awesome tune.

Optional things include intake manifold, head porting, cams, light flywheel, etc.

Missing anything?

Actually there are a few things you listed that really are not necessary.
Stock rods in the 2zz are good for at least 400whp, maybe more. The optional things you listed are always nice but I only used the following to get 355whp.

Mahle low compression pistons
Upgraded clutch-mandatory for this kind of power
Walboro fuel pump (needed for high power)
fuel return line kit with regulator (to assure fuel pressure)
I upgraded the valves (not necessary but recommended even on stock engines)
I also upgraded the oil pump gear as I heard those were a weak point under high power.
Boost gauge
Wideband O2 for
Some type of engine management-I used a AEM stand alone, I also know someone that runs a Hydra that works well.

Not necessary but recommended-2 stage boost controller so you can run low and high boost. That way you can drive around with 275-300whp on low boost and at the push of a button you can go all out with high boost. With mine, if I turn it off completely it will only run about 7psi, so it is about 230-250whp and that makes it perfect for autocross.

[boardertj]

Does the turbo spool up any quicker under the low boost settings?

[Bender Rodríguez]

Originally Posted by boardertj

Does the turbo spool up any quicker under the low boost settings?

To get to the high boost level requires some time and you will pass thru the lower amount. That's probably intuitive it's faster to climb 5 feet than 10 and in climbing 10 you pass thru 5.

If you want to compare a lower compression motor with a higher boost setting vs. the stock (high) compression motor at a lower setting, to reach the same boost, the higher the compression the faster it will spool the turbo. The force of the exhaust gas is greater providing more torque on the turbine wheel.

Hope that helps

[dereklburt]

Still for sale.