The Solo Setup Thread for the Elise in SCCA

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by Robert Puertas

We are currently running the Kumho Ecsta V710 in the folowing sizes:
front - 215/40-16 - 28 psi
rear - 245/45-17 - 28 psi

The fronts are a bear to mount. They need to be very warm to get them to seat.
The rears rub in the fender liners. We want to try spacers in the back to see if that solves the problem. Raising the pressures might also prevent the tires from deforming...

Have you found a good setup with spacers that prevent or reduce the rubbing in the rear?

[masheen]

i have the option of either waiting a month or two for saffron w/ sport pack and hard top, or getting a saffron w/ hard top next week. i am thinking about the second option - but i want to make sure i can convert to sport pack in a reasonable time (less than it would take to receive a new car) and cost (about equal or less than the option would cost). i have developed a good feel for wheels and tires, but some decisions still remain fuzzy. considering track and autocross as priorities over street:

- any new feelings on what would be good shocks as LSS substitute?
- has anyone had experience ordering LSS springs from dealers - that is - how long would it take to get them?
- could dealers also supply the steering rack shim (also known as mounting plate i think)? if not, who? mine didn't know what i was talking about.

(i realize this is getting little off topic, but it does ask about shocks for autocross)

[Stan]

>>>- any new feelings on what would be good shocks as LSS substitute?
- has anyone had experience ordering LSS springs from dealers - that is - how long would it take to get them?
- could dealers also supply the steering rack shim (also known as mounting plate i think)? if not, who? mine didn't know what i was talking about.
(i realize this is getting little off topic, but it does ask about shocks for autocross)<<<

* Many dealers stock the LSS springs, ~$200, uninstalled.

* US cars have only one rack plate...the normal and sport pack ride heights are so close that there was no need to change the rack height.

* If you do more than local autocross, get the LSS since it has 2 oil coolers and this is pricey to add on. SCCA rules dictate that all parts of a package must be present in order to run them on a car. So for example if you converted a base to LSS springs and LSS or other shocks, larger front wheels, both oil coolers would need to be present and the shock must meet stock class rules: many aftermarket pieces do not.

[masheen]

i just found about the oil cooler in another thread - it was hard to believe so it is nice to hear a confirmation. for me, that's too much to go through for conversion. i'll go for the lss. thanks for the info.

[jlk]

Hi,

I took my Elise to its first autox today. Boy Randy was that tape a good idea. Here are some pics, Elise +2, cones 0 on this outing. You can see the marks left by the cones I hit. I don't know what the car would have looked like without the tape. The tape actually looked worse in person.

I stunk but the Elise did well. My Elise is just Touring and Starshield, this was my fifth event, first with the Elise. I was 8 seconds behind the two guys who were very experienced with Z06 vettes. I need to go to autox school. Any recommendations.

Jordan

[Evl]

Originally Posted by jlk

I need to go to autox school. Any recommendations.

Evolution.

[Surferjer]

What Chris said. I go to EVO Phase 1 with Pat in August, can't wait.

Masheen-check the non-LSS car-many cars on the lot today HAVE both oil coolers. Any car that's been on the lot for a while should have it. Check the VIN #-cars lower than around 3100 have both oil coolers. Ask your dealer to be sure.

Swapping springs to LSS on the non-LSS shock is no big deal. If you can get the twin coolers on a base model, do that. Then you spend $220 on springs, 2100 on SSRs with AO48s and now you have an LSS setup (slightly less-stiff shocks) plus 2 sets of wheels and tires, both sets streetable, for the same money. My $.02. And what I actually did.

[fzust]

So just to verify.

1. LSS Elise is still in SS correct?
2. Randy mentions removing 2-3 rear camber shims in 1 post and then says he runs stock camber in the rear in another post. I am using all stock LSS except SSRs with stock LSS A048s. What should I run for rear camber?
3. Any recommended tire pressures for this setup?

Many thanks!

[Evl]

Originally Posted by fzust

1. LSS Elise is still in SS correct?
2. Randy mentions removing 2-3 rear camber shims in 1 post and then says he runs stock camber in the rear in another post. I am using all stock LSS except SSRs with stock LSS A048s. What should I run for rear camber?
3. Any recommended tire pressures for this setup?

1) If you don't have any mods to move you out of stock, yes, you're in SS.

2) I'd take out all shims in the front, and leave the rear alone until you get a pyrometer, at which point you'll better be able to know which direction to head.

3) For pressures I'd start with what the people are saying for track use and go from there. I forget what exactly I was using when I was on A048s, but it was colder then so I probably got away w/ lower pressures than you can in the summer.

[Slade]

Originally Posted by fzust

3. Any recommended tire pressures for this setup?

For auto-x I've found that the lower 30's is good for the AO48s. I think I ended up with 35 front and 33 rear so that's a pretty good place to start.

[AutoXr]

Originally Posted by Slade

For auto-x I've found that the lower 30's is good for the AO48s. I think I ended up with 35 front and 33 rear so that's a pretty good place to start.

I ran 26 front and 28 rear in the A048s at the last event and felt it was the best so far. Roll-over was just to te edge in front and not bad in the rear either. Temp was mid 60's.

Given the tendency toward lift-off oversteer, logic says I should be running more air in the front than rear. I suspect this may be the case once I remove shims from the front unless there's a mid-engine reason for having more air in the rear?

[Surferjer]

I ran a lot lower pressures in the AO48s, more like 23-25 with no rollover issues, but it was colder and the grip wasn't so good.

[Eyelise]

Stan has posted and I agree, The rear does not need a lot of camber. Apparently the rear camber increases under load more than the front. I am running -1.7 to -1.8 and that is likely too much. The rear tires do not roll over at all. The negative camber is only decreasing your contact patch. The optimum camber for the AO48s is probably -1.5. You might be better off adding a shim. I shoot for hot temps on the track or autocross of 26/29. When I was at NHIS last weekend it rained during one of my sessions. I started with temps of 22/24lbs but couldn't get the tires warmed up on the wet track. I spun in one of the corners. The instructor seemed to think it was a particularly slick part of the tarmack but I think the rear tires may have rolled over causing the instability. Food for thought.

[Dro]

So what is the recommended process for removing the front shims for inducing negative camber? Is an alignment required afterwards or can you just take all of them out? If I was to get an alignment where should I take it? The dealer? Will they be accustomed to setting negative camber? Is this something that can be measured in your own home garage with some doodad? What about the other alignment settings (e.g. caster, toe)?

Sorry for all the questions. I understand the advantages to negative camber for racing, but have never deviated from stock alignment settings in the past.

And feel free to direct me to a previous thread if all this has been discussed before.

Thanks.

[ConeFusion]

Here is one thread about removing the camber shims:

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6334

[fzust]

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

There are a few options for stock class tires.

Street tires
1. You can run your stock AD07 or A048 Yokohamas. They certainly work well on the car and may only give up a small amount to the more dedicated R compound tires. The posted tread life rating of the A048s makes it illegal for a street tire class!

2. Falken Azenis. A great street tire that is close to an R compound. And very inexpensive too. Probably close in performance to the A048s above or maybe a tick stickier. Stock legal for street tired classing. They work well, but get very greasy very easily and need water to keep cool. They can overheat halfway through your run. We are running 215/16 front and 225/17 rear.

R tires
3. Toyo RA-1. Long life, work well. Sizes are not great for the Elise.

4. Kumho V700 Victoracers. Good racing tire.

5. Kumho V710. A great tire with exceptional grip. However we are waiting for late spring 2005 for the correct sizes to be made. We may be doing some testing here, stay tuned.

6. Hoosier AS304. In the right sizes (225-17 rear and 205-16 front), but short tread life or grip life is the price for great grip. Supposedly a new compound for 2005 that is better than the V710s.

7. There is some talk about Yokohama getting back into the autocross market with a new tread compound. Hmmmmm.....

Note, we are getting some small amount of rubbing with the front Hoosiers on the inside wheel liner (near the top).

Randy,

This info is gold! Since it is now about 9 months old, any chance you would give us an update on what you've worked out?

[cixelsyd]

Originally Posted by Slade

For auto-x I've found that the lower 30's is good for the AO48s. I think I ended up with 35 front and 33 rear so that's a pretty good place to start.

I autocrossed the other week (first time ever in my life, ever racing any car, at all!) my non-LSS car and I came within 4 seconds of FTD!!!!

I was pretty damn stoaked. And am going to an event in PA this Sunday.

But, what I am posting for was that I ran the same pressures as above (35 and ~33) on a very,very hot day (90+ degrees) on the non-LSS tires and it seemed to do pretty well for me.

-=cixelsyd

[Steve W]

Congratulations!

That sounds like an excelent start to autox. The Non LSS car is extremely capable straight from the factory.


The only thing I would recomend is is you find that you are scrubbing the fronts in any kind of sustained corner, remove rthe front shims only. I've only had one event since we did that to my car, but on the basis of that event, front end grip is much improved on the AD07s

Steve

[fzust]

Originally Posted by fzust

Randy,

This info is gold! Since it is now about 9 months old, any chance you would give us an update on what you've worked out?

Re-post! Any updates from the Gurus of nationals on this old setup info? BTW, I ran into a guy named Huffman that was running a yellow ASP Elan. Jesus, he was fast. Fast times were 72-73 seconds. He ran 68 and had FTD. I had a 75 I found out later that he and that car have won nationals ASP twice!

[Rich]

Does anyone have any guess as to how the stock shocks will do on the new asphalt surface for nationals next year? I would think that with the lower grip and hopefully smooth surface shocks won't offer any significant improvement. Or is that just wishful thinking? How about the need for LSD on that surface?
I'm looking to compete at nationals next year but want to do it on as limited a budget as possible. I know that means I probably won't win anything, but my ability level will probably hold me back more than anything with the car. However, my co-driver may be able to trophy with a properly set up car.

Thanks!