Originally Posted by countryboyshane
What octane fuel was used on this run?
100. On hot says, there's benefits with Sunoco GT260+ of course (also 100oct).... that's stuff is magical
Really enjoying this thread and thanks for sharing your info.. It has been very helpful with the mods I am doing to my 211 at present .. Quaife sequential and Dry sump .
Also looking to swap out the OEM radiator and really like your setup ... but just wondering about the sizes of the two rads.
The CC Rad in the pics is slightly shorter than the main water radiator which then results in the pre-rad end tanks obscuring some of the airflow to the either end of the core on the main water radiator. Would it not be better for both Rads to be the same size and not restrict the airflow .. or have i missed something here ?
The engine radiator is from Brent B. Very large rad that has been converted to single pass. We were careful to seal things up well to help ensure most all the air coming into the front of the car was forced through the radiators...
What thickness did you go to for the main Rad ..
I am thinking 50mm [single pass ] on the premise that more surface area gives more cooling.
Looking to upgrade the SC in the near future and will go to a CC Rad then .. but a bit concerned that if I make it to "thick" [ Rad 50 mm / CC Rad 35mm] this may actually impede airflow?
Appears also that you do away with OEM ducting surround completely or have you fabricated up another system to channel air out of the clam .. or is this not a concern ?
Some info I have shows ducting from the top of the cooling pack to the underside of the front clam is beneficial, as the low pressure created over the top of the front clam helps hugely to draw the airflow through the cooling pack.
Be interested to see what your setup is ..
p.s received the dry sump tank and swirl pot .. look great ..thanks
Thanks, the lower rad is for the IC obviously (IC hex). the limiting factor for airflow is the crash structure, not the IC hex. Yes, the IC hex is slightly smaller than the engine rad, but no where near as small as the crash structure opening that they're sitting on. The air is completely sealed and MUST go through the rads, so I'm not worried about the air not being able to get through them.
I use the stock ECU to control the electric water pump (for the engine) so that I can heat the car up to something over 160F while staging. Once on the session starts, the ECU runs the pump 100% of the time and that keeps the car under 200F where I like it. There is no stat on the car and I run about 30-40PSI of block pressure in the coolant system with my pressurized header tank. You need a strong radiator to run that much pressure, so be sure it can handle that before you try it. No more pesky blown headgaskets or hot spots since running this system!
(pics below. Note, I run a 40+PSI cap, not the one pictured)
There's still a low pressure area above the front clam openings with or with out the duct, so I'm not sure there's a lot to be gained with the duct. Surely something to be gained, but high pressure air will find its way to low pressure air with or without a duct so I have not worried about it--- Engine doesn't overheat, so proof is in the pudding I suppose. To do this the BEST way, the crash structure would be deleted and replaced with rads facings the airstream. Started down that path, but never enough time for my own cars
, so the rads were just placed atop the crash structure and that works well enough
If I had to do it over again, I'd probably not run this exact radiator. It's a fine part, but it's very heavy and a bit of a pain.
Hope that helps,