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BOE Clam Hinge install

16K views 47 replies 22 participants last post by  titaniumdave 
#1 ·
Not so difficult, just need to pay attention, take time and be careful.
So far...

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#2 ·
I really would like to have a go at this but my mechanical skills / abilities are fairly limited. I read the instructions and get about 3/4 of the way through and start thinking this is beyond me.
What is your level of mechanical experience?
 
#7 ·
Im 48 and working on cars since I was 14. However, I would say this is easy for intermediate mechanic, but certainly not for the beginner. Due to the size of the rear clam itself, I would not attempt this solo no matter what. Its not heavy or a difficult job but it is just good to have two people to preserve the health of the clam.

It looks like the hinged approach gives one some access, but it looks like one is (still) going to be reaching in from over the wheels and only from the sides... I know you haven't been there yet, but do you feel the side access will be sufficient for most maintenance endeavors (or is this a case of: being so much better than via the top hatch, that it's got to be worth it)? And beyond that: can one still fully remove the clam by pulling the hinge pins, or does one have to detach one side of the hinges to do such?
The access gained with the clam open is much better. If, for example, you needed to remove the overflow to get access to something else, you will still need to do that. However, the visibility is much better which also gives more elbow room. I also like how I do not have to lean over the clam for future maintenance. I am planning on a REV300 at some point this year. I know it can be installed with the clam on, but this just seemed to be the way to go for me.
 
#3 ·
My wife and I did the radiator swap with only the help of this forum, and it went well. These cars are fairly simple to take apart, you just have to be really careful with the large, flexible composite body.

We will be tackling the clam hinge as soon as it warms up, but that will also be with the help of a couple guys who have done a few already.


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#6 ·
Not so difficult, just need to pay attention, take time and be careful.
So far...
It looks like the hinged approach gives one some access, but it looks like one is (still) going to be reaching in from over the wheels and only from the sides... I know you haven't been there yet, but do you feel the side access will be sufficient for most maintenance endeavors (or is this a case of: being so much better than via the top hatch, that it's got to be worth it)? And beyond that: can one still fully remove the clam by pulling the hinge pins, or does one have to detach one side of the hinges to do such?
 
#9 ·
If you do intend to work on your own car and do any mods then this is really a no-brainer. I used to build my own kits, a bit different from Phil's but not doing that now. Just get the kit and believe me you will NEVER regret it. I would not have a car like mine without a tilting clam !!
 
#10 ·
The only reason that keeps me from getting a clam hinge, is that I'm on my 2nd Elise and have yet to take the rear clam off of either one. I guess that could be different if I need to do a clutch or install a supercharger, but I don't see either happening anytime in the near future. Although it looks cool as heck out at like a C&C or something.
 
#11 ·
I've got a replacement engine harness, and I need to re-align the rear clam, so it is worth it to do the install all at once. If I didn't have any plans to take the rear clam off, then I'd probably still have the hinge (got a good deal on a used one) collecting dust.
 
#12 ·
Sorry to bring up an old thread, wondering how you removed the fake foam/plastic interior roll hoop cover. I am wondering if mine was glued in place. As I believe I have removed all pieces of it, but it is solidly still attached.

Forgot to mention, my car is salvaged, and other pieces were glued in place. ;)

Thanks.
 
#14 ·
I had to break mine into pieces and get a new one.
The plastic screw fasteners are not really made to unscrew.
I couldn't thread mine back out. They just spun around like a stripped thread.
 
#15 ·
So I got the piece out all in one piece...just broke one end and glue it back together as the fake leather is still all in one piece. I figured out that the "front" of it that bakes in the sun kind of glues itself to it.

So I had to use a flat tip, and very gently pry the interior roll hoop cover from the fiberglass roll hoop cover by first breaking the seal that had been created from heat and time, then every so slightly use the flat tip as a pry bar to "push/pull" the interior piece down and away from the roll hoop. This allowed me to slip out the rest of the way without causing anymore damage to it that I already had. ?
 
#16 ·
So I got the piece out all in one piece...just broke one end and glue it back together as the fake leather is still all in one piece. I figured out that the "front" of it that bakes in the sun kind of glues itself to it.



So I had to use a flat tip, and very gently pry the interior roll hoop cover from the fiberglass roll hoop cover by first breaking the seal that had been created from heat and time, then every so slightly use the flat tip as a pry bar to "push/pull" the interior piece down and away from the roll hoop. This allowed me to slip out the rest of the way without causing anymore damage to it that I already had. ?

On a scale of 1 to building an ironman armor, how hard is this install? I am really interested in it, for the exception of having to take half the car apart each time it's used.
 
#17 ·
Not hard to install, a royal pain in the ass to do by yourself. If you have a decent set of sockets, extensions, and allen wrenches you should be good. Ball end allen sockets really help a lot with some extensions when you remove the seats.
For example removing them clam. Weighs maybe 50 lbs, but large enough that it takes 3 people to remove.
Just be wary to spend maybe extra $200 for anything that you may break or is broken.

Hinge plate with the studs for the trunk were rusted and broke off on my 05.
Broke the roll bar cover in half. Wheel well liner had been rubbing the tire and needed replaced.
Rear panel light clips broke off and it fell out of the rear panel. The connector was stuck and I pushed it through the panel

Totally worth it though. I didn't do the rear panel delete and it only takes maybe 25 mins to get mine tilted.
It is a good opportunity to install any engine mods, harness bar, and seats. You have to remove them
 
#19 ·
Hey Coyne,

So far I don't think this was difficult to do, but I am only half way through the process. Removing the rear clam was simple, largest challenge was the interior roll hoop cover, and once I learned the trick to it...no problem. The rest came off very nicely. Just take your time, and you will be fine.

I won't know about the reconstruction part of it all until I get the clam back from the paint shop in about a month (having the whole car repainted due to a lawnmower issue and my wife...she peppered it with rocks while mowing). But I honestly don't expect it to have an issues when I put it back together...truth be told.

The only thing I struggled with was the instructions from BOE, they were a bit unclear for me...however there is tons of information on the forums that you should be able to find out what they are talking about. :)

Take your time no rush, and easily done in my mind. :)
 
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#20 ·
These were the more difficult parts for me:
- Figuring out from the instructions exactly what was supposed to have what sized Velcro and where exactly it needed to be, because it will only stick once

- Routing the battery cables to the battery and connecting the Odyssey battery to the terminals. I ended up modifying the metal plates that came with the battery

- Finding room in my garage to store the rear clam safely
 
#22 ·
So I just did a hinge install on my '06 Elise. Very time consuming but went okay. One question, what do folks do with the charcoal canister that sat where the new battery mount goes? Mine is huge, not sure where the thing will fit...

Is there another canister folks switch too?
 
#24 ·
No mount unless I lost it...
 
#27 ·
so, if I delete the Evap system the car will still pass DEQ and not throw codes?
 
#29 ·
Has anyone made extension cords for the lights so you don't need to unplug them when you lift the clam? Mine would run clean if I had about 12" more wire and I'd never need to mess with them once they are set up.
 
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#31 ·
You shouldn't have to disconnect the lights. The instructions call for routing the light wire down by the hinge so that you don't have to worry about disconnecting anything...

Maybe I'm reading you wrong?

-Phil
 
#32 ·
Phil,
The wire seems so tight when the clam lifts up...am I just a worry wart?
 
#35 ·
Installed the hinge about three years ago when I changed out the engine. Did all the work by myself and I was 68 years old at the time. Removed the clam by myself, being very careful not to flex it too much and had no problems. I did have to get a canister relocation bracket and mounted it above the right wheel liner as per instructions. I only relocated the taillight wires as per instruction and while they are tight, they work fine. I did make an extension wire and relocated them along the firewall for the third brake light as I wanted it to work. Since I changed out the exhaust system I can't comment on using the stock exhaust but I don't believe it would clear and the rear panel needs to be changed out so that it isn't fastened to the clam. I also changed out the battery from the trunk to the engine compartment (Big battery to a very small one), moved the windshield cleaner bottle to the firewall next to the ecu (I believe that the canister was there. but not sure I remember right). Had to move the engine fuse boxes up to clear the supercharger about 1 to 2 inches. Can comment on how long it would take as I changed out the engine and trans during the process, but just the clam hinge should take move than a couple of days to less then 6 hours.
 
#37 ·
I dont have any of these problem . I followed the instruction and everything works as it should. You Re-route the tail lights wiring in the boot to run through a different hole near the hinge for more slack. There should be no more wire running through the hole where the battery cable used to go through.
 
#38 ·
I figure out the problem, previous owner had pulled a couple of inches of harness down with the plate lights! Once I stuffed the wires back it it all fits as promised. I was even able to use the rubber boot to seal things up pretty well. I'm a dork and pulled the center brake light up too...I know, why?
 

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#39 ·
Anyway you can post couple pictures for me that show the wire pin out on that plug? I recently bought an Elise with a hinge installed by a PO and I'm pretty sure whoever installed the kit mixed a wire or two on the harness plug. When I put the car in reverse, my brake lights come and when I hit the brakes my reverse lights come on. Im hoping thats the issue and if so I can easily fix it.
 
#40 ·
Just switch the wires to each lamp in the trunk.
 
#43 ·
I just had the second Odyssey 625 battery die on me, this time with a battery tender on it. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there another battery option that fits into the tiny hole I now have for a battery to live in? Pretty frustrated since it is a total pain to pull the battery out with a heat exchanger sitting in my right fender.
 
#44 ·
I feel your pain. My 1st odyssey on a tender didn’t last much longer than my battery mart “cheap” AGM without a tender that went dead a few times.


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