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post #41 of 188 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 09:00 AM
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Finally found some time to dial her in reasonably well and on the stock 2005 T4 ECU... Nice cool run here... Once I account for 190-110F ambients and roasting on the track for several laps, she'll be legal again in the power department...

I'll still need to bake her on the dyno while holding load to get things ultra toasty so I can dial in my temp compensations for engine safety and then it's on to sorting our the flat shift for the stock ECU

Fun fun!

-Phil
What octane fuel was used on this run?
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post #42 of 188 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 01:13 PM
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Hi Phil
Really enjoying this thread and thanks for sharing your info.. It has been very helpful with the mods I am doing to my 211 at present .. Quaife sequential and Dry sump .
Also looking to swap out the OEM radiator and really like your setup ... but just wondering about the sizes of the two rads.
The CC Rad in the pics is slightly shorter than the main water radiator which then results in the pre-rad end tanks obscuring some of the airflow to the either end of the core on the main water radiator. Would it not be better for both Rads to be the same size and not restrict the airflow .. or have i missed something here ?




The engine radiator is from Brent B. Very large rad that has been converted to single pass. We were careful to seal things up well to help ensure most all the air coming into the front of the car was forced through the radiators...

What thickness did you go to for the main Rad ..
I am thinking 50mm [single pass ] on the premise that more surface area gives more cooling.
Looking to upgrade the SC in the near future and will go to a CC Rad then .. but a bit concerned that if I make it to "thick" [ Rad 50 mm / CC Rad 35mm] this may actually impede airflow?

Appears also that you do away with OEM ducting surround completely or have you fabricated up another system to channel air out of the clam .. or is this not a concern ?
Some info I have shows ducting from the top of the cooling pack to the underside of the front clam is beneficial, as the low pressure created over the top of the front clam helps hugely to draw the airflow through the cooling pack.

Be interested to see what your setup is ..

p.s received the dry sump tank and swirl pot .. look great ..thanks

Last edited by cph; 01-22-2014 at 01:16 PM. Reason: added info
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post #43 of 188 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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What octane fuel was used on this run?
100. On hot says, there's benefits with Sunoco GT260+ of course (also 100oct).... that's stuff is magical

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Hi Phil
Really enjoying this thread and thanks for sharing your info.. It has been very helpful with the mods I am doing to my 211 at present .. Quaife sequential and Dry sump .
Also looking to swap out the OEM radiator and really like your setup ... but just wondering about the sizes of the two rads.
The CC Rad in the pics is slightly shorter than the main water radiator which then results in the pre-rad end tanks obscuring some of the airflow to the either end of the core on the main water radiator. Would it not be better for both Rads to be the same size and not restrict the airflow .. or have i missed something here ?




The engine radiator is from Brent B. Very large rad that has been converted to single pass. We were careful to seal things up well to help ensure most all the air coming into the front of the car was forced through the radiators...

What thickness did you go to for the main Rad ..
I am thinking 50mm [single pass ] on the premise that more surface area gives more cooling.
Looking to upgrade the SC in the near future and will go to a CC Rad then .. but a bit concerned that if I make it to "thick" [ Rad 50 mm / CC Rad 35mm] this may actually impede airflow?

Appears also that you do away with OEM ducting surround completely or have you fabricated up another system to channel air out of the clam .. or is this not a concern ?
Some info I have shows ducting from the top of the cooling pack to the underside of the front clam is beneficial, as the low pressure created over the top of the front clam helps hugely to draw the airflow through the cooling pack.

Be interested to see what your setup is ..

p.s received the dry sump tank and swirl pot .. look great ..thanks

Thanks, the lower rad is for the IC obviously (IC hex). the limiting factor for airflow is the crash structure, not the IC hex. Yes, the IC hex is slightly smaller than the engine rad, but no where near as small as the crash structure opening that they're sitting on. The air is completely sealed and MUST go through the rads, so I'm not worried about the air not being able to get through them.

I use the stock ECU to control the electric water pump (for the engine) so that I can heat the car up to something over 160F while staging. Once on the session starts, the ECU runs the pump 100% of the time and that keeps the car under 200F where I like it. There is no stat on the car and I run about 30-40PSI of block pressure in the coolant system with my pressurized header tank. You need a strong radiator to run that much pressure, so be sure it can handle that before you try it. No more pesky blown headgaskets or hot spots since running this system! (pics below. Note, I run a 40+PSI cap, not the one pictured)

There's still a low pressure area above the front clam openings with or with out the duct, so I'm not sure there's a lot to be gained with the duct. Surely something to be gained, but high pressure air will find its way to low pressure air with or without a duct so I have not worried about it--- Engine doesn't overheat, so proof is in the pudding I suppose. To do this the BEST way, the crash structure would be deleted and replaced with rads facings the airstream. Started down that path, but never enough time for my own cars, so the rads were just placed atop the crash structure and that works well enough

If I had to do it over again, I'd probably not run this exact radiator. It's a fine part, but it's very heavy and a bit of a pain.

Hope that helps,

Phil
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post #44 of 188 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Worked up some new wing mounts.

1/2 inch honeycomb core and 14 layers of carbon on the struts. VERY STRONG. The only flex in the system is actually in the subframe. Amazing how much deflection is in the chassis with a 35 inch lever attached to it

The wing and struts actually slip out of the aluminum "saddle" very quickly and easily with removal of 4 bolts from inside the boot area. So removal of the rear clam will not be a difficult task for service.

I contoured some mounting plates for the top side of the wing that have adjustment holes. Starting with just two settings to keep things simple and will fine tune ("slow track" and "fast track") as we get more experience with the setup.

Here are some pics...

Phil
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post #45 of 188 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 01:13 PM
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Very nice! I love refining prototypes. Next on my list is some custom composite flares. I'm excited to learn composites.
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post #46 of 188 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 02:23 PM
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Phil, how are you fixing the splitter to the crash structure? There are 3 holes and speed clips on either side of the crash structure for the undertray panel, but surely those 6 little clips on their own aren't enough to support 200lbs of Phil from ripping the clips through the crash structure.
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post #47 of 188 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Very nice! I love refining prototypes. Next on my list is some custom composite flares. I'm excited to learn composites.
Thanks!

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Phil, how are you fixing the splitter to the crash structure? There are 3 holes and speed clips on either side of the crash structure for the undertray panel, but surely those 6 little clips on their own aren't enough to support 200lbs of Phil from ripping the clips through the crash structure.
Good question...

So under the crash structure, there are 4 aluminum supports that run the length of the CS, which connect the CS to the splitter. The splitter also ties into the tow point. There's a triangular support that connects the CS to the outboard of the splitter just in front of the front tires. This is also where the clam is fixed to. I can have front clam off in about 3 minutes now-- The headlights no longer need to be removed to release the clam.

The far front of the splitter is secured with two fixed rods I made with some fender washers, 4130 0.250" rod, and some quick work on the TIG machine.

I had to trim 1-2 inches of the front clam since the clam sits atop the splitter rather than the splitter hanging from the clam...

Not sure how much DF an 8" splitter creates, but I fugure it's enough that the clam wouldn't hold it well, so I'm not asking it to

I've since fashioned some panels from black ABS to block off the OE oil cooler holes in the clam to aid in DF generation.

Have also cut the bodywork off behind the rear wheels with the idea of reducing drag and add to the Mad Max feel

Playing around with springs and chassis AoA, as the wing was causing the car to "wheelie" at the shakedown run (GPS says 140mph on the straights). Trying a bit more chassis angle before I swap out to heavier rear springs or reduce the AoA of the wing (800lb rear springs at moment). Also tweaking the splitter here and there to try and generate more DF to help balance the wing at higher speeds... This is all part of the fun of this sport for sure!!!

Car is in pieces again prepping for race #1. Soon as she's back together I'll snap some more pics.

She's also over power or under weight. 5.5:1 is my class limit and I have some P/W penalties assessed from things like the seuqntial...
I need to strike a balance between adding ballast and reducing power... good problems to have.

Still in draft form is my closed loop flat shifting GCU integration into the stock ECU. Shooting for mid season on that. Parts here, but short on that little thing called time

-Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #48 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-04-2014, 01:45 PM
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Absolutely beautiful! Great work
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post #49 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Spent the day trying to break the car... no luck! lol

Mad Max is starting to feel like a respectable race car again...

Aero balance is making sense now! The car has grip for days even on overly cycled rubber from last season! Suspension is coming together-- albeit a few more pieces to that part of the equation.

The wind gusts were beyond terrible today. Driving straight into a head wind of 40mph going down the front straight

But all in all, a great day of sorting things out and me trying to learn to drive again since I've only negotiated the esses 1 time since 2012!

Car ran like a top with the only "Work" to do was taping off the air opening so she would come up to temp. Was only 68 today. Most of our events are in the 100+ range where this wont be an issue...

Nearly done integrating flat shift to the stock ECU, but ran short on time so still doing it the "slow" way. lol...

Few pics and a quick vid...

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Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

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post #50 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 10:44 PM
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Great vid .. Looks like a lot of fun !
Did you notice that your knee is close to making a few shifts .. I have moved my lever further away (to the left I'm my case ... RH drive) and positioned about 80mm higher .

That steering wheel looks good .. Just enough info and easy to read ... What steering rack do you run ?
I have used a flat bottom wheel previously but this was a pain at a slow hairpin on the local track ... steering wheel changed shape half way through a turn .. A quick steer rack would fix it but concerned about geo changes.
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post #51 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-17-2014, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Great vid .. Looks like a lot of fun !
Did you notice that your knee is close to making a few shifts .. I have moved my lever further away (to the left I'm my case ... RH drive) and positioned about 80mm higher .

That steering wheel looks good .. Just enough info and easy to read ... What steering rack do you run ?
I have used a flat bottom wheel previously but this was a pain at a slow hairpin on the local track ... steering wheel changed shape half way through a turn .. A quick steer rack would fix it but concerned about geo changes.
Yes, it's a blast! All new suspension and setup, reversion back to the Lotus ECU, and new aero (again) left a lot on the table to go wrong, but it's actually been smooth sailing so far

Still many things to do... one of which is moving the shifter higher... It would pretty much impossible for my knee to actually shift it. It requires a very deliberate pull/push for engagement of the sequential. You might also notice that the shifter is completely modified from what Quaife provides. The lever is a good bit shorter and that phalic looking lever knob is is a load cell to talk to the GCU...

I LOVE the wheel... AIM is so easy to interface with the Lotus ECU as well, so setup is quick and easy... The print is large, not too busy, and the pages are easy to scroll through while driving (big red buttons with positive feedback). I don't think I was doing it on that particular vid, but all through the day, I was scrolling through the screens on a lap by lap basis to monitor various items (this was just a testing day). As far as the rack goes, it's actually the stock ratio! There's one turn on that track where it's slow and greater 90 degrees. I was worried about not being able to shuffle, but it's not a problem at all. The diameter of the wheel is small enough that you've got a good bit more arm crossover available than with the stock wheel. As far as effort goes, there is a good bit of feedback of course, but not so much that it's exhausting. I think the stock ratio rack is probably perfect for this smaller wheel.

-Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #52 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-17-2014, 07:56 AM
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What trailer is that
Looks perfect


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post #53 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-17-2014, 08:33 AM
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How much did you get the trailer for


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post #54 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-17-2014, 01:38 PM
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Yes, it's a blast! All new suspension and setup, reversion back to the Lotus ECU, and new aero (again) left a lot on the table to go wrong, but it's actually been smooth sailing so far

It looks really well planted and predictable , so what you have done is working ... I know what you mean about a 'lot on the table to go wrong".... the theory about changing one thing at a time is great , but it never works out that way.
You will be well pleased.


Still many things to do... one of which is moving the shifter higher... It would pretty much impossible for my knee to actually shift it. It requires a very deliberate pull/push for engagement of the sequential. You might also notice that the shifter is completely modified from what Quaife provides. The lever is a good bit shorter and that phalic looking lever knob is is a load cell to talk to the GCU...
Noticed the shift knob and thought that may be what it was ...
I have gone with Geartronics and have ordered their GCU
Geartronics - Sequential gearbox electronic systems - Flatshift Pro
and the Gear Knob Load sensor
Geartronics - Sequential gearbox electronic systems - Flatshift Pro





I LOVE the wheel... AIM is so easy to interface with the Lotus ECU as well, so setup is quick and easy... The print is large, not too busy, and the pages are easy to scroll through while driving (big red buttons with positive feedback). I don't think I was doing it on that particular vid, but all through the day, I was scrolling through the screens on a lap by lap basis to monitor various items (this was just a testing day). As far as the rack goes, it's actually the stock ratio! There's one turn on that track where it's slow and greater 90 degrees. I was worried about not being able to shuffle, but it's not a problem at all. The diameter of the wheel is small enough that you've got a good bit more arm crossover available than with the stock wheel. As far as effort goes, there is a good bit of feedback of course, but not so much that it's exhausting. I think the stock ratio rack is probably perfect for this smaller wheel.
I had been planning to go with the Motec C125 logging dash
MoTeC > C125 *NEW* > Overview
But think I will have a closer look at the AIM wheel .Do you have a contact for your man at AIM ?
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post #55 of 188 (permalink) Old 04-17-2014, 03:19 PM
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What trailer is that
Looks perfect


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Yes, I have been wanting a Montrose trailer too. They look perfect for what I want. Not cheap, but it looks like they are less than a similar Trailex. I like the light weight, aero and quality.

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post #56 of 188 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Early Season Update

  • Fixed the suspension geometry with EP drop 40mm uprights
  • Added very custom Penske Suspension (thank you Blackwach Racing)
  • Setup, Setup, Setup changes

Been hitting the local track days between NASA races for seat time and chassis setup. The car is getting a lot of track time this year for sure. Still feeling a bit ham-fisted and still over-braking, but not nearly as bad.

Race 3 was this weekend. We did well! Saturday and Sunday are two different events with two different track configurations: 2.1mi and 2.5mi tracks respectively (Heartland Park).

The event was full and lot of national talent there.

Greg Vannucci showed up with his V6 Exige (conversion) Cup car. He's certainly one of the best NASA racers in the country with a national championship under his belt among others. He's running TT2 and ST1 (W2W). Jim Lipari was there in his TTB Elise and I rounded it out in TT1.

It was absolutely spectacular to have all 3 Lotuses there not only win their respective classes but set track records on each day

I managed to set fast lap of the entire event on both days.

For HPT vets, I did a 1:38.1 on the 2.5mi corse and a 1:22.3 on the 2.1mi course.

Here's a quick vid of the 2.1mi course and a pic of all 3 happy Lotus owners!


-Phil
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Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #57 of 188 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 07:57 AM
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That is ABSOLUTELY flying...


As a personal reference point my best respective lap times with were a 1:52.62 on the long course and a 1:34.63 on the club course - both way back in 2009/2010 (my God has it been that long since I've been to the track?)

Phil has 10x more track miles and operates at a much, much higher level. He's got Titanium Balls! His car is also not his daily driver anymore

GREAT JOB PHIL!!!!

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post #58 of 188 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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That is ABSOLUTELY flying...


As a personal reference point my best respective lap times with were a 1:52.62 on the long course and a 1:34.63 on the club course - both way back in 2009/2010 (my God has it been that long since I've been to the track?)

Phil has 10x more track miles and operates at a much, much higher level. He's got Titanium Balls! His car is also not his daily driver anymore

GREAT JOB PHIL!!!!
Thank you sir!

It takes a good bit of car to break 1:40 on the full course. I THINK the fastest lap ever by a "classed production car" was a 1:38.3 in a 997 Cup car driven by a pro driver... 'er atleast that was the story floating around the pits. If so, I just edged him out with my 38.1... That said, I'm sure that rumor isn't correct, and there's some other nutso production car that has done better (but in what class, I dunno!). That 38.1 is certainly a decent time to be sure. Looking at my data, there are plenty of places to improve by a good margin. Best theoretical lap on AIM was, well... embarrasing... lol... but we may be nearing the limits of my abilities! We're back there in October when the weather will be cooler and dryer-- looking forward to see what can be done then!

Honestly, the best part of the weekend was the Lotus sweep the three of us pulled off. I doudbt there will be many times that we will have 3 Lotus at one event, in 3 classes, with 2 course configs, and 6 lap records set all by Lotus!

-Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #59 of 188 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 10:19 AM
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Honestly, the best part of the weekend was the Lotus sweep the three of us pulled off. I doudbt there will be many times that we will have 3 Lotus at one event, in 3 classes, with 2 course configs, and 6 lap records set all by Lotus!

-Phil
Loved it! That motor you built revs like a MotoGP bike and sounds better than the current F1 cars. The video looks like it is running in fast-forward!

But, yes.... That Lotus sweep is priceless. That is a cool thing to be part of.

Congratulations!

'06 Arctic Silver Elise | Touring |Traction Control |Supercharged | ST exhaust | Nitron singles | BWR anti-sway bar | RTD brace | V2 Arms | SS brake lines | Harness bar and Schroth harnesses | sys.6.pack |shifter reinforced | Ultralite lines | cup air box | Sport inserts | DBW Pedals | TALLrails | Team Dynamics 1.2's | TOC Oil Pan | ProRad | FW Torque tune | BOE surge tank and catch can | Radium Clam Kit
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post #60 of 188 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Kansas City/ Overland Park
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Originally Posted by jefrac View Post
Loved it! That motor you built revs like a MotoGP bike and sounds better than the current F1 cars. The video looks like it is running in fast-forward!

But, yes.... That Lotus sweep is priceless. That is a cool thing to be part of.

Congratulations!
Thanks!

The motor has been a real key to making this fun. She runs like a sewing machine and was the basis for releasing what I call our "Black Series" short block : 10.5:1 Engine.

Two big contributor to keeping the motor together and revving like that was the oiling and cooling system.

In 2012, I went through 2 oil pumps back-to-back and had a problem with headgaskets popping with the sequential Our best estimation was that the constant high RPMs and higher power were causing oil cavitation issues and excessive steam/localized boiling in the head.

Oilng: I first switched to an external pump, which solved the broken pump issues, but didn't entirely solve the incidental oil starve problems. Then finally in 2012, we built our drysump system. We've now fit it to many cars now. Reliability of these little motors goes up 10 X with a drysump

Cooling: As mentioned several posts above. We run a high pressure system and a proper swirl pot to help remove air from the coolant. We borrowed the idea from NASCAR. I'm pretty sure NASCAR motors have more cooling issues than any other series in the way they draft each other inches away from the car in front of them. Running a lot of block pressure and swirling the entire cooling mass really makes a big difference!

This post reminds me that I don't have either of those items on my website... lol...

-Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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