A blast from the past reading some names from previous contributors - several of which I was lucky enough to meet at the track! This debacle just happened to me as well so I thought it worthy to bring this thread back as a good reminder to all. Also to fill in some information that was never posted in the thread.
When both carrier bolts on my passenger rear wheel broke I had just completed driving through a left corner doing 65mph at the track. When they broke it threw me almost 90deg sideways. I was able to correct and/or got very lucky - I stayed on pavement. It was super lucky this did not result in personal injury or more suspension or body damage (only my inner fender well suffered).
I am guessing having some toe-in pushes the tire toward car while moving forward which I think prevented damage to the rear clam. Unfortunately for me... as I tried to get it off the trailer... going backwards pushes the tire away from car so the 1st hassle was extracting the bolts then sourcing new bolts and putting the car back together enough so that I could at least get it off the trailer.
Just a note that I was using V2 shims. I had done the alignments myself before, using loctite. The last alignment however was done by a shop. It appears there was no loctite... because the heads of the bolts fell out I can't tell if they were lose before they sheared. The other corners were not lose. I admit I never really checked torque because I assumed they had loctite.
I don't have the parts yet but this is what I have ordered thus far:
I ordered these bolts to replace my carrier bolts (which where OEM hardened 10.9) A117W7212F:
Zinc-Plated Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw M10 x 1.5 mm Thread, 50 mm Long, grade 12.9, #90128A291 - https://www.mcmaster.com/#90128A291
B111C6012F - 12 Ball Joint (stress holding wheel by itself (the lower ball joint) ripped the boot and I am concerned it is damaged)
A117D6005F - 02 Hub/Bearing Assembly, with wheel speed sensor (ordered in case I can't repair the ABS wires that were ripped from my current one. I don't think the sensor was removable/repairable in the original assembly but I will give it a better look when I remove it)
A116W1170F - 03 Screw, M12 x 40, cap hd., hub assy. to hub carrier (just in case)
E111D0052F - 06 Shim, camber adjustment (because all my shims fell out/lost on the track).
I am hoping I can remove the lower ball joint without removing the control arm... will see. EDIT: Yup it came out pretty easy using a free-rented ball joint remover tool. There were no retaining clips or anything. Pressure is applied to the top of the ball joint to remove it.
Don't let this happen to you! Replace these bolts on a regular basis! Use a thread locker!
I never saw a suggested torque to tighten the 12.9 hardened bolts. I might just tighten them a few ft/lbs more than the 10.9s were.
EDIT: For completeness for the front carrier bolts you will need one M10 x 1.5 mm Thread, 40 mm and one M10 x 1.5 mm Thread, 60 mm bolt for each side. My McMaster examples (12.9 hardness) would be part #s: 91502A227 and 90128A292 respectively.